A primer on teas from Shanghai-based Chinese Tea Expert Wayne Huang

Meet Wayne Huang – a co-owner of Cha Mi Living tea shop in the Tianzi Fang arts and shopping district. Wayne has recently opened Cha Mi with his wife after both spending years studying and researching Chinese tea. Ever since I moved to Asia, bit by bit I have switched from coffee to tea. But I realized that despite my enjoyment of tea, there was actually very little I knew about the finer points. After a few awkward tea ceremonies, I decided it was time to educate myself and so called upon Wayne to give me a crash course in Chinese teas.

As it turns out all Chinese teas, no matter what kind, come from the same plant. Wayne tells me this plant is the Camellia Sinensis – originating in China and SE Asia (“sinensis” actually means Chinese in Latin) today it is cultivated across the world in tropical and subtropical areas. This small evergreen shrub is the root of all teas, from white to green to black to oolong and more…

As Wayne describes tea, I start to realize tea is actually kind of like wine in its complexity from the level of oxidation of the tea to the production process and resulting flavours. Actually there are 6 main categories of tea:

Green
Oxidation: no oxidation / lack of fermnatation is what makes it so healthy…it’s chock full of polyphenol which have antioxidant and anti-inflammatory characteristics.
Bud or Leaf: Green tea uses the bud of the plant, which generally means it must be handpicked to protect the fragile bud. This is why it is generally more expensive. Type: Famous Chinese green tea types include Long Jing, Gua Pian, Bi Luo Chin and Hou Ki.
Taste: Typically light, refreshing and slightly sweet
Of Interest: Because this tea is unfermented, it does have a limited shelf life, so be sure to check if your tea was harvested this year. Also it must be protected to retain its freshness – refrigeration is key. This is why it’s probably not best to buy your green tea from the grocery store where it has been sitting on the shelf for who knows how long.

Yellow
Oxidation: less than 10% oxidation. If you haven’t already figured the patter out, oxidation reduces antioxidants, so the less fermented a tea is the more health benefits it will have. Thus yellow tea, also has a higher level of antioxidants than black tea.
Bud or Leaf: Still only the bud.
Type: The most famous Chinese yellow tea type is Yin Zhen which is known for its mild and fresh taste.
Taste: Typically mellow, sweet and fresh.
Note: Some people think it is yellow because of a mistake in the process, but the yellow color actually comes from a special process called “sealed yellowing.”

White
Oxidation: also less than 10% oxidation.
Bud or Leaf: Still only the bud, but this one is different. If you look closely this tea bud is actually slightly furry, this explains the particles you see sometimes floating on the surface after brewing, it is the fuzz coming loose. White tea has a different production process in that they are left under the sun or shade to wither, letting all the water evaporate and then when they are dry the flat leaves are rolled.
Type: Famous Chinese white teas include Yin Zhen (Silver Needle) and Bai Mu Dan (white eyebrow).
Taste: sweet with a slight taste of honey, fresher tasting than green or yellow yet still quite mild
Note: There seems to be a bit of a marketing craze around white tea. When we were in Sri Lanka, they talked about it never being touched by hands and harvested only with golden scissors. But Wayne tells me the hype around white tea is more of a marketing story, as in China it not usually higher priced than green tea.

Oolong
Oxidation: partially oxidated at 20-60%. You can actually see the oxidation if you look closely – it visually manifests in the red tinged edges of the leaf.
Bud or Leaf: Using the tea leaf and not the bud, some types (leaves are rolled into long curly leaves (Da Hong Pao tea) while in other types it is roleld into a ball (Tie Guan Yin tea). This means that as the tea tree grows it sprouts buds, when the buds stop sprouting it grows leaves, so the leaves are in fact also slightly older than the buds. Because this tea is partially fermented and roasted, it takes on a slightly sugary and smoky flavour.
Type: Famous Chinese teas include Da Hong Pao, JinXuan, Tie Guan Yin and Oriental Beauty. Oriental Beauty is actually from Taiwan and is unique asits distinctive taste comes from a bug which eats parts of the leaves giving it an even sweeter honey flavour.
Taste:
Note: This tea usually comes from the Fujian province and is often the tea used in typical Chinese restaurants. If prepared traditionally it is brewed in a Yixing clay teapot.

Black
Oxidation: 100% oxidized through roasting.
Bud or Leaf: Both rolled tea buds and leaves are used. The leaves have a deep red tinge form the process which results in the characteristic reddish brown look of the tea liquid after brewing.
Type: The famous Chinese type is Qeemen. But this type is in fact less popular in China than the fresher, less oxidized versions above.
Taste: smooth, warm and rich flavour
Note: 100% oxidation means it has the longest shelf life and can be stored at room temperature. This is why it is the tea most known in the West because it could be transported on ships without suffering quality degradation and thus was heavily traded in Europe and the US. .

Pu-erh
Oxidation: green tea + post fermentation, it is fermented for 3-4 years after roasting and actually starts to develop a fungus like cheese.
Bud or Leaf: leaves which are pressed into bricks after roasting
Type: The classic Chinese version is Yunnan Pu-erh.
Taste: dark and intense flavour
Note: “Mature” Pu-erh is produced by putting rough processed green tea in controlled environment to accelerate the fermentation, which then only takes several weeks..  On the other hand, the “Raw” Pu-erh leaves the rough processed green tea in natural storage to allow the fermentation happen naturally – thus requiring years of time to get to the proper “post fermentation.”   Pu-erh is become an investment tea, kind of like vintage wines, as it is the only tea that gets better with age. As a result there can be some counterfeit versions on the market.

Scented & Blended teas
Scented teas – These teas range from teas like Jasmine, Crysanthemum and Osmanthus which use tea as a base (typically green or oolong). Typically the process is to layer the tea with the flower petals 5 times to infuse the tea with the flower scent naturally. The flowers are then removed.

Blended teas: The best known example is Early Grey. Created by blending something into the tea to generate the desired flavor.  This is because some of the flavors are not easily absorbed by the “scented process” above.  These flavors are blended in the tea content, without removing from the tea base.  e.g. Earl Grey tea uses black tea as the base, and add the oil extracted from the rind of the bergamot orange to achieve its special flavor.

While tea is much more complex than I imagined, enjoying it is simple. Wayne gave me some excellent tips for enjoying a perfect cup of tea that I would like to share with you.

Storage
Wayne explains to me that “air, light and heat are the enemies of tea” and can encourage oxidation. So protect your green, white, yellow and oolong teas by keeping them refrigerated. Black teas can be kept at room temperature, just be sure to keep them away from light.

Brewing
Brewing is simple if you follow Wayne’s instructions.

HOT brewing – for one cup, use approximately 5g of loose tea in a cup. Pour in about 250cc of hot water, temperature based on the tea type. For green, yellow and white teas keep the wanter in the 75 – 85 degree range. For oolong and black teas the water should be 90 – 95 degrees. Basically the finer the tea bud the lower the temperature of the water. A tip is to pour boiling water into a room temperature cup – this will lower the temperature by about 5 degrees. Steep for 4-6 minutes based on desired strength.

COLD brewing – to make iced tea, simply put loose tea in a bag and submerge in room temperature water. Refrigerate for 12 hours and enjoy.

To learn more about teas and actually taste them, I highly recommend visiting Wayne’s family shop in the Tainzi Fang area of Shanghai. Both English and Mandarin are spoken at Chai Mi Living and there is nothing the husband and wife duo enjoy more than sharing their knowledge of tea. If you are already interested in tea then they can be your tea gurus leading you through the finer points of tea enjoyment. If you are curious and new to Chinese teas, let their passion inspire you and introduce you to what is sure to be a new favourite drink.

Cha Mi Living
Tianzi Fang Shopping District
No 6 Lane 274, Taikang Lu
Shanghai, China
Telephone: +86 21 6473 1086

Friendly and knowledgeable family-run tea, spice and honey purveyors

I have gotten into tea since moving to Asia. No longer a die hard coffee drinker, I enjoy herbal teas, black teas…hot or iced. Something about it feels lighter to me in this climate. And when I travel, I am fascinated by the various tea cultures that exist in Asia and like to take part in as many as time allows whether in China or Japan or Nepal. On a recent trip to Nepal I was excited to try the local Nepalese Milk Tea, or “dudh chia.” It is something reminiscent of an Indian Chai but with a Nepalese twist. We had enjoyed some in out hotel in the morning over breakfast and thereafter I was on a mission to acquire said milk tea and learn how to make it. Lucky for me, I stumbled upon Sagarmatha Tea House where we spend a better part of the morning learning about Nepalese tea culture.

In talking to the brothers Ganga and Navin who run the tea house, we learned that most milk tea (unless made from scratch with cardamom pods, cinnamon sticks, etc.) is crystals. It looks a bit like instant coffee actually and is made on the stove top with milk instead of water. The resulting concoction is a creamy, spicy tea that is oddly both comforting and refreshing.

As we relaxed and sampled various other teas (Assam, Lemongrass, Rose, Sencha, Mint and more) we learned about the tea of the Himalayas, met their wife and new baby daughter. They talked to us about their lives, their business and their family. I treasure these kinds of encounters where not only does one learn about the food and the culture but one also connects with the locals. As always, the most meaningful experiences are those shared with people when traveling.

So if you find yourself in Kathmandu, do stop by the Sagarmatha Tea House and sample some teas. They are also selling masala spices with recipes, organic coffees, local honey and tea pots and accessories. And be sure to say “hi” to Ganga and Navin for us.

Sagarmatha Tea House
Opposite Blue Bird Department
Lazimpat
Kathmandu, Nepal
Telephone: +977 01 4436169

Experience a Chinese tea ceremony in this eclectic old teahouse

In the heart of historic Old Town in Shanghai and in close proximity to the famous Yuyuan Gardens lies the Old Shanghai Teahouse. In fact, Old Town was the first area of Shanghai to be settled – originally, a place for locals only and where foreigners never ventured. Today, with the Old Town Bazaar and nearby historic gardens this is hardly the case as a mix of foreigners and locals can both be found shopping and generally whiling away a Saturday or Sunday afternoon. And in the midst of the market frenzy, the Old Shanghai Teahouse provides a welcome, if slightly eclectic, respite.

The quirky décor reminds me of an assortment of items you might see at an American flea market. But this is exactly the charm of the place. Full of relics from the 1930’s and 1940’s it is part cultural curiosity, part tea house. From an actual map of Shanghai in the 1930’s and old sewing machines, to period posters and old phone books, there is a fascinating assortment of oddities that provides no end for visual amusement.

I confess – I am a former coffee addict (several cups a day, headaches in absence of coffee…the whole nine yards). However, I have almost completely switched to tea as of late and have a burgeoning curiosity about the world of Asian teas and tea ceremonies. And perhaps nowhere is tea more revered than in China.  That said, I am still learning about all the different varieties, so we relied on our host to help us navigate the menu. Our host was in fact quite knowledgeable about the various teas and helped us select a couple to fit our individual tastes.

Paul opted for the Guang Yin Kung Fu Tea. As it turns out this classic oolong tea has a propensity for bitterness, so rather than being steeped in a large teapot it is normally only kept in a mini teapot for 20-30 seconds before serving. The serving of tea leaves was large – allowing for multiple fillings of the tea cup and prolonged lounging (65 RMB / $9.50 USD / S$13.50).

I have a penchant for Jasmine tea, so wanted to try something in that area. Our host guided me toward the Shanghai Baby Jasmine Tea (65 RMB / $9.50 USD / S$13.50). This tea is served in a special glass cup because watching the tea steep is half the enjoyment. This is because the tea is in the form of a dried Jasmine blossom compressed into a ball shape. When the dried Jasmine blossom ball drops into the hot water it slowly unfurls in the glass cup. Paul and I stared with fascination at the flower and leaves blooming – in the end it was like a miniature aquarium feature. And the tea itself was exactly what one would expect – a delicate floral perfume that was both soothing and refreshing.

All in all, it was a great detour during our morning of shopping and exploration. The combination of the 1930’s time warp décor and the calming ritual of a Chinese tea ceremony made for a truly unique experience in Shanghai.

Old Shanghai Teahouse
385 Central Fangbang Road
Shanghai, China
Telephone: +86 (21) 5382 1202

Well maybe there are some doilies… but the great thing about high teas, besides of course the good tea, is the food you’ll find at them… particularly the high teas in Asia. They’ll feature a sprawling buffet with regional food from all over the world.

We were recently invited back to the Regent Hotel (host location of Iggy’s and the wonderful Basilico’s Brunch) to sample something new they’re trying out. Instead of doing a standard hotel international spread for their high tea, the Regent opted to do a themed tea.

From 20 November to 6 December, 2009 they did the “Best of Britain” promotion. Seems fitting with the high tea concept. They changed the food menu up and offered a unique menu inspired by seasonal British cuisine. For me it was a perfect chance to not only indulge in a weekend buffet, but also to sample a variety of British treats… some of which I’ve just read about but never tasted.

The menu was exhaustive, so much in fact that I’ll list it at the end of the article.

The meat pies were delicious. The pastry crusts on the dishes featuring crusts were a far cry from the greasy, heavy pie crusts served in typical pubs.

The carving station was lovely as well. The salmon was cooked perfectly and the roasted meat was delicious and tender. Both were served with an assortment of lovely sauces to compliment each meat.

Then of course there were the pastries and treats. This is really the highlight of any good tea… a chance for the pastry chef to flex their fondant and flood the blood sugar of the guests. There were scones, puffs, meringues, cakes, and a wide assortment of British and classic sweet treats. A highlight to all the treats were the fresh fruits both on display and in the pastries. I’m normally more a fan of chocolate desserts, but the apple and rhubarb crumble was a delight. I’m sure many of  these will still be on the menu long after this promotion and are worth visiting for.

Another highlight for me, and this might sound trivial, was seeing the chefs out at the start of the tea with their cameras taking pictures of their food and setups. To me this shows a level of pride and accomplishment in their work. They want to remember what they’d accomplished and brag about it later… that to me is a sign of a kitchen excited by the chance to try new things and experiment. Also that they’re happy with the results… I certainly was.

I hope the Regent does more of these promotions in the coming months. A French inspired tea with signature pastries (please do chouxs) and maybe a foie gras station would be nice… I’m just saying

The Regent Hotel, Tea Lounge 1st Floor
1 Cuscaden Road
Singapore
Telephone: +65 6725 3245/6 (make reservations)
Mon-Friday Tea Time 12 noon to 6pm
Sat-Sunday Tea Time is 1:30-5:30 pm

Paul

Fresh Finger Sandwiches
Cream Cheese and Cucumber on White Toast
Smoked Salmon Pistachio Brioche
Ox Tongue with Pickles on Multigrain Toast
McLelland Cheddar on Dark Rye
Egg and Water Cress on White Bread
Mini Rolls with Ham and Stilton Cheese
Savoury Items
An assortment of English pies from Topping Pie Company
Shepherd’s Pie
Cornish Pastie
Sausage Rolls
Cheese Straw
Spinach and Goat Cheese Tart (absolutely lovely)
Ham and Mushroom Tart
Pate
Pork Pate
Mushrooms and Chicken Liver Pate with Melba Toast
Organic Seafood “Loch Fyne” Corner
Loch Fyne Organic Smoked Salmon
Loch Fyne Gravlax Rollmops Herring
Marinade Smoked Rainbow Trout
Smoked Mussels
Loch Fyne Bradan Roast Pate
Carvings (Served on Saturdays and Sundays)
Slow Roasted Loch Duart Scottish Salmon with Dill-Sour Cream
Yorkshire Pudding
Toad in the Hole
Roasted Welsh Lamb with Vegetables, Roasted Potatoes and Gravy served with Golden Mint Jelly and Chili Mustard Relish (Saturdays)
English Sunday Roast (beef), Vegetables, Roasted Potatoes and Gravy (Sundays)
Salad Bar
Assorted Leaves with Condiments and Dressing
Cheese and Accompaniments
Cashel Blue Mature Stilton Mini Cheddar Barre Orange Cheddar Rouge Elisabethan Scottish Double Gloucester Scottish Extra Mature White Cheddar Mature Scottish Cheddar Seriously Cheddar Smokey Red Hot Chili Crackers Fennel Crackers Celery Crackers
Freshly Baked Pastries and Tea Cakes
Yorkshire Cheesecake with Cottage Cheese
Black and White Chocolate Marble Cake
Victoria Sponge Cake with Strawberries and Cream
Sugar Glazed Lemon Cake
Maids of Honour Cake
Chocolate Fudge Cake
Fruit Cake
Rhubarb and Apple Crumble Berries Tart
Bakewell Tart English Muffins
Fondant Glazed Shortbread Meringues with Strawberries and Cream
Cherry Trifle
Chocolate Eclair
Crumpets
Christmas Pudding
Summer Pudding
Bread and Butter Pudding
Cranberry & Raspberry Jelly
Home-baked Scones
Cheese, Plain and Apple Raisin Scones served with Devonshire Clotted Cream, Lemon Curd and selected Tiptree preserves from Wilkin & Son’s Ltd:
Lemon Curd Blackcurrant Jam Morello Cherry Jam Apricot Jam Peach Jam Orange Marmalade Strawberry Jam
Organic Apricot Jams Organic Raspberry Jams Organic Strawberry Jams Organic Orange Marmalade
Asian Corner
Spicy Chicken Wings Satay with Condiments
Wok Fried Rice Noodles

Howdy Yall,
To commemorate my travels around Texas and the states I’ll be doing a short series of “Texan Epicurean Concepts” over the next few weeks. These concepts will hopefully help you more fully enjoy your next trip to Texas.

First up is a childhood favorite of mine – Sweet Tea.

Growing up in Abilene, TX, sweet tea was the only tea I knew. When you go to a restaurant or truck stop diner you’re given a choice of drink.

“What yall want to drink.”

“Tea”

“Sweet or Unsweet”

“Sweet please m’am”

“K, sug (pronounced shoog), yall keep lookin at yer menus and I’ll be right back with yer teas”

There was no hot tea, Earl Grey, Oolong, Green, or anything else. Tea was cold. It was usually either a variety of instant tea or sun tea. People were firmly in one camp or another… and unlike beer preferences, there’s not a typical sweet tea drinker. Anyone with a sweet tooth drinks sweet tea… old men, little girls, cowboys, etc. Amazingly I’ve even seen folks add more sugar after the drink hits the table!

According to Wikipedia Sweet Tea is

a form of iced tea in which sugar or some other form of sweetener is added to the hot water before, while, or after brewing the tea but before the beverage is cooled or chilled and served. Adding sweetener to hot water allows for supersaturation of the solution, enabling the tea to hold more dissolved sweetener than under colder temperatures.

Sweet tea is a staple of the south and can still be found in many local eateries around my home town of Abilene, TX. Sweet tea is best enjoyed in either a glass jug (as pictured above) on in a giant styrofoam cup. It may not be good for the environment, but I swear the delicious nectar tastes all the sweeter when contained in styrofoam and passed through a straw

Sweet tea may not have as refined a history as in China or the Virginal White Tea of Sri Lanka but it stands as a culinary staple for us in the south regardless. In fact I’ll be so bold as to equate it in taste and sweetness to the highly revered orange Chai Yen (or sweet Thai Tea) everyone enjoys when visiting their favorite Thai restaurant.

So next time you find yourself in the south, satisfy that sweet tooth with a giant glass of sweet tea.

Paul

Thai food favourites in a lovely and classic Thai setting overlooking the Erawan shrine

I discovered the Erawan Tea Room when a Thai friend suggested it. I had been in Thailand about 3 months and was still feeling my way around, everything was new to me. And over the months some places fell away as I discovered favourites and others, like the classic Erawan Tea House, stayed in my repertoire for as long as I was in Bangkok. And now it is one of my favourite places to visit when I return, particularly as a place to take visitors as it embodies that classic and elegant Thai style that is so distinctive…yet somehow fading in Bangkok as more international trendy, mod options proliferate.

On the 2^nd floor of the Erawan Mall, a haven for high fashion boutique shoppers, sits the Erawan Tea House. Traditional Thai foods and refreshing Thai teas and other local drinks (think lemongrass and fresh fruit juices), are served in quiet elegance. It is a perfect lunchtime place for a business lunch, lunch with friends, a tea break when shopping and of course, as I mentioned its classic style lends itself perfectly as a destination for visitors. (menu and service is in Thai and English)

It’s not the cheapest Thai food… I mean for sure you could eat on the street for 60-80 THB ($1.50 – 2.50 USD / S$ 2.50 – 3.50), but it’s well priced considering the rich and luxurious environment featuring Thai teak furniture and sumptuous Thai silk pillows. The servers wear traditional Thai dress and the overall ambiance oozes Thai hospitality and refinement. Entrees are 190 – 360THB ($5.50 – 11 USD / S$ 8 – 15), but I would recommend the tasting menu for 500THB ($15 USD / S$ 21) per person where you can pick from 7 dishes on the extensive menu. Or try the high tea with desserts for 100-140 THB ($3 – 4USD / S$ 4 – 6).

All the foods are lovely and well executed…we always order out Thai favourites like Penang Curry, Som Tum Thai (green papaya salad), Green Curry and fried Morning Glory (a kind of green vegetable resembling a sort of stemmy, weedy spinach).  There really isn’t a menu highlight or conversely a watch-out per se. I have also enjoyed the large river prawns, the whole steamed Thai fish and all the wonderful desserts. So order without fear, everything will be delicious.

Be sure to get a seat by the window, overlooking bustling downtown Bangkok and the Erawan shrine. And after your lunch, stop off at the Erawan shrine to see one of the few remaining Hindu temples in downtown Bangkok. A shrine to the arts, there are often Thai dancing troupes performing multiple times of day to pay honour at the shrine.

Erawan Tea Room at the Grand Hyatt
take BTS to Chidlom station
Erawan Mall, 2^nd floor
Ploenchit Road
Bangkok, Thailand

A 140-year old white tea plantation, spice and rubber tree farm

If you visit Sri Lanka, you will certainly be tempted to visit a tea plantation. And there is probably none more famous than Handunugoda – the legendary tea plantation that used to produce the famous “virgin” white tea for the Chinese Emperor Tsong. Only virgins harvested the tea, never touching it with their own hands, but instead using golden scissors and bowls to collect the tea leaves. The emperor lips were the first to touch the tea.

Today you can visit this tea plantation and learn a bit about tea production in Sri Lanka, ancient Ceylon. Sri Lanka is the 3^rd largest tea producer in the world. And Handunugoda is one of the largest in the country and is also one of Dilmah Tea’s largest suppliers. But there is more than just tea at Handunugoda, there is also a spice farm…Sri Lanka has been producing cinnamon since the 1700’s when under Dutch rule (before they started making tea in the 1800’s). And there is also natural rubber being harvested. If you have never seen rubber being harvested, it is fascinating…you injure the tree with a knife, the tree “bleeds” and this liquid is collected, as it hardens it becomes rubber.

Probably for me, the most interesting part was seeing the tea production process – from fresh green leaves from the harvest to the dried tea leaves that tea manufacturers receive. There are 7 steps:

1. the leaves are left to dry on screens for 18 hours
2. a machine rolls the dried leaves for 30 minutes into curled tea leaves we know…this process can take 3x to complete
3. the leaves are sifted to let the broken, odd bits fall out
4. tea leaves are put on tile to ferment
5. tea is put into the 150-year old dryer to dry the leaves
6. Leaves are sent to the grading room to be sorted  according to size / quality
7. The separator removes all the brown leaves and stems leaving only high quality tea leaves

Handunugoda runs a lovely, detailed tour explaining all of the details and covering a good bit of the estate to see the various activities (complimentary). The tour starts with a visit to the main house where you can enjoy tea and cake on the verandah while the plantation history is briefly explained. Then, you can see the factory, followed by a tea tasting near the factory.

It all makes for a truly unique afternoon. Our guide, Herman, was thoroughly knowledgeable and welcoming. And much like many experiences of going directly to the source, in this case the farm, our enjoyment of tea now and in the future is enhanced by the experience.

Note: If coming from Galle the trip is about 40 minutes to Handunugoda.

Handunugoda Estate
malinga@bellmail.lk
Tittagalla, Ahangama
Sri Lanka
Telephone: +94 77 329 0999 (Herman)

From charming colonial hotels to lovely gift shops

Please don’t stay in Colombo if you go to Sri Lanka. Even 3 days is enough to explore historic Galle and the surrounding areas. Here’s our cheat sheet for how to spend 3 days in and around Galle.

On the way…

We flew in very late at night…due to the odd and inconvenient flight time offered by every airline to Sri Lanka…stayed at the Taj Airport Garden Hotel. This is truly an airport hotel of decidedly average caliber. But there is no point in splurging on this part of the trip – just crash and get up early the next day for your drive to Galle. Save yourself a lot of trouble and hire a car and driver for the journey – not only for the round trip transport, but also to take you around a bit while in Galle. It’s only a tiny bit more to pay the driver for extra time in town – since he will stay in town to wait for your return anyway (20000 LKR / S$250 / $175 USD).  You can arrange this at the Taj Airport Hotel through the travel desk. Be prepared – it’s only about 100km but it will take you about 4 hours given the condition of the roads (tuk tuks, errant cows and dogs, slow-moving trucks, etc.)

Stop off as Kosgoda Turtle Conservation Project. This is one of the many turtle conservation projects in the area, but we like this one because it is truly about animal rescue and preservation…whereas many of the others obtain their turtles through unsavory poaching practices. Visit the turtles and get a quick tour where you can learn about the different types, their habits and more (400 LKR / S$5 / $3.50 USD).  I got to hold one!

The Galle Fort…
The thing to see in Galle is the Galle Fort. The Fort is a Unesco World Heritage Sight and deservedly so…built in the 17^th century by the Portuguese and then later taken over by the Dutch it is a massive, hulking fortress of epic proportion given the time in which it was built. The fortress is so strong that when the 2004 tsunami struck, it emerged relatively unscathed. Spend an hour or so here…taking in the breathtaking water views, strolling around the ramparts and if you come on the weekend, seeing all the teenage couples paired off in dark corners, holding hands and stealing chaste kisses.

A bit of shopping in Galle…
In and around Galle Fort area, there are charming colonial streets with many a lovely store scattered about.

If you like jewelry the following are recommended. Please note though when I say jewelry in these parts, this means gemstones set in gold in traditional settings. And in some cases you can get knock off Bulgari but with real gold and stones. For me, this is not my taste (I prefer quirky things with a bit of character), but if it is yours, then try:

• MM Ibrahim, 47Church Street…in Galle since 1909, known for their Bulgari copies
• Laksana, 30 Hospital Street, wall-to-wall gemstones and jewelry, will custom make pieces as well
• Mangala, 43a Columbo Road…more gems and jewelry if you haven’t had enough
• Manika @ Fort Gallery…original, unique jewelry and gem designs

Laksana jewelry store

If you are into local handcrafts, textiles, objects, etc…then we have a few favourites to share with you. All of these have lovely selections of rustic jewelry, textiles like pillows and table linens, books on the area, cute / quirky gifts and more:

• Exotic Roots, 32 Church Street…painted bowls, wooden home décor objects and Sri Lankan handicrafts
• Elephant Walk, 30 Church Street…more of the same, but somehow I actually like this one better… we bought a rustic wooden serving platter that we thought would make a nice plate of cheeses and antipasto back home
• Kanhanda Kanda Collection, Pedlar Street, we really like this one too…the owner of the Kanhanda Kanda villa, George Cooper, is also an interior designer and here are some of his selections for you to take home… George has impeccable taste.
• Barefoot, 41 Pedlar Street…this was probably my favourite of the bunch. Lots of local hand-loomed textiles and great gift items. We left with probably a ¼ of our Christmas list complete!

Some spa?
It seems the consensus is that the Amangalla Hotel Spa and the Lighthouse Hotel & Spa are the best options around. But most places can and will arrange a massage therapist (or even a yoga instructor) to visit your hotel room. Why not indulge when on holiday?

For cocktails & dining …
Well one thing you should know is Sri Lanka is not a party place. No nightclubs, few bars and an early closing time of around 11pm make happy hour your best option for a few drinks. Besides, why not have a view of the beach and enjoy a local beer at sunset if you can. We recommend:

• Lighthouse Hotel: we enjoyed sipping a few local beers on the Grand Terrace while watching the ocean waves crash on the rocks below. Be sure to arrive around 5:30 or 6pm to catch the sunset. While we didn’t eat here, we do hear that the food is perhaps forgettable, so we would recommend heading to the Sun House for a lovely dinner afterward.
• Sun House: you can enjoy a cocktail from Dicks Bar in the courtyard or savor one of their lovely meals – we really like Sunday night curry dinner.
• Amangalla Hotel: Sit on the generous terrace and watch the watch the world go by. While you can certainly order something stronger, I found the Ginger Lime Fizz hit the spot for me after a hot day. Also try the Dining Room for dinner.
• Galle Fort Hotel: also recommended for drinks or dinner. We stopped by mid-afternoon for an iced-coffee. I love how the Sri Lankan iced-coffee is routinely topped with ice cream…one part pick-me-up and one part decadent treat.

The Lighthouse Hotel grand terrace

A local brew, Lion, enjoyed at the Lighthouse Hotel

Ice Coffee Topped with Ice Cream

Where to stay….
The list for dining and drinks above is a pretty complete list also for hotels. We really enjoyed our stay in the Sun House. Also recommended are:

• Kahanda Kanda: this is a truly lovely boutique hotel offering villas in a stunning location with panoramic views of the jungle, a neighboring lake and a tea plantation. Also well known for the excellent cuisine. George Cooper, the owner is also an excellent host. You will be welcomed like a personal friend and fully pampered by the attentive staff (pictured below).
• The Fortress: a luxury hotel / spa on the coast just a few minutes from Galle. Rather expensive…if perhaps too expensive to actually stay, it is always an option to stop by for lunch.

A serene spot at Kahanda Kanda

The grounds and saffron wall at Kanhanda Kanda

A sneak peek into a villa at Kahanda Kanda

Neighboring places worth exploring…
We really enjoyed a couple fo short jaunts we took out of downtown Galle anf thought you might too.

• Handunagoda Tea Estate: Sri Lanka is the world’s 3^rd largest producer of tea. And Hundunagoda is a 140 year-old, family-owned tea estate, purportedly supplying the back in the day supplying the emperor of China with the purest tea in the world – picked by virgins, harvested with golden scissors into golden bowls and completely untouched by human hands. Today you can tour the place (Herman is an excellent guide), see the plantation, tour the factory and learn about about teas from Sri Lanka, known in before 1972 as Ceylon.

• Mirissa Beach: about 40 minutes from Galle is a beach widely known as the most beautiful and unspoiled beach in Southern Sri Lanka. Sit on the beach, snorkel, have a beer…
• Wijaya Beach House: these days a bit crowded, Wijaya Beach is probably not the destination beach that Marissa is, but it’s a lovely stop to make on the way and have a bit of lunch. We like the curries at Wijaya Beach House…have a curry, sip and beer and sit back and watch the [many] people frolic in the surf and the locals fish by hand.
• Samakanda: sadly we ran out of time and did not make it here, but we really wish we had. Widely purported to be one of the most stunning places to visit in Southern Sri Lanka, an organic farm and tea plantation which has become a destination for many a visitor. Word has it they have a few rooms to accommodate overnight guests as well.

If you are feeling active…

There’s lots to do if you feel the need to stretch your legs a bit. We were a bit lazy on our trip, but the following are recommended if you are raring to go:

• Surfing: the best areas are Hikkaduwa, Ahangama and Midigama, the Kabalana Hotel is recommended as a staging point.
• Cycling: there is a guide that everyone swears by…Alex Barratt (077 7906 156). Alex organizes 2 rides a 35km ride touring through a tea planatation, rice paddies, including lunch at Samakanda ($50 USD). There is also a 15km version ($30 USD)

Certainly there’s no shortage of ways to entertain oneself in Galle – it really all depends on what you are looking for. It can be a totally chill, get-away-from-it-all kind of trip…or an active, I-don’t-want-to-waste-a-minute trip. But all in all I would say this – it is an island and like many island cultures, things do not happen with speed or haste. So plan (or let it all go) accordingly.

The relaxing ritual of tea ceremony after a day of sightseeing

When you go to a place like Beijing where there are tourist attractions so historically important that they make their way onto the Unesco World Heritage site list, you figure you ought to go see them. The problem is…so does everyone else. Unfortunately this can make what is supposed to be a refined cultural undertaking a bit frustrating – jostling tourists, endless lines, and after all that work, you feel a bit beaten and battered…and maybe not even in the best state of mind to fully appreciate the significance of the attraction that brought you there. This is what happened to us on a recent visit to the Forbidden Palace in Beijing. After hand-to-hand combat with a sea of international tourists, we longed for an escape. And so after making a surreptitious exit out of the East gate of the Forbidden Palace, we stumbled upon the Terrace Tea House, a quiet retreat from the chaos.

At the Terrace Tea House we were expertly led through the traditional Chinese tea ceremony by our host. After surveying the tea selection, elegantly presented on the back of a fan in both Mandarin and English, we chose a Jasmine tea for two after a little coaching from our host (120 RMB / $17.58 USD / $S 25.66).

As the Jasmine tea unfurled its delicate floral goodness in the gaiwan (a lidded cup for brewing), we were surprised and delighted by the color-changing frog. As water poured from vessel to vessel, the temperature sensitive frog was splashed with hot water and migrated in color from green to golden. As we sat sipping tea out of our miniature tasting cups we laughed a bit about umbrella wielding tourists (not because it was raining, but rather the Asian practice of shielding one’s skin from the sun) and our trip overall. And a few minutes later the ritual’s relaxing effect enabled us to head out again – refreshed and calmed.

If you do find yourself at the Terrace Tea House, be sure to stop by its neighbour, Celadon Story. Celadon Story has a wonderful selection of elegant celadon ceramic pieces for the home. The graceful lines and the soothing icy, jade green colour of celadon will likely tempt you in to taking a piece or two home.

Terrace Tea House
69 Donghuamen Daije
Beijing, China
Telephone:  +86 10 6525 9595

Celadon Story
49 Donghuamen Street
Beijing, China
Telephone: +86 10 6512 5071

Hey all,
As we move along into healthy week, I thought I’d do a little roundup of drink information for you. A few years back when I was still living in Coppell, Texas I started trying to live a healthier life. I was running to the gym every other day and supplementing meals with smoothies. I couldn’t figure out why I wasn’t losing weight. I was doing everything right…or so I thought. The smoothie was actually my problem….

You see I picked up a smoothie from the gym’s attached smoothie shop and chose on taste preferences, not on carefully researched information. I figured I’d upsize since I was choosing a “healthy” smoothie drink over a value meal. I chose the 32 oz Peanut Butter Smoothie. It was rich, thick, and filled me up nicely. But I wasn’t losing weight, I was gaining as the weeks wore on.

One day at the Starbucks I managed, a customer asked to see the nutritional information of a drink she regularly ordered. She was shocked to find her twice a day treat contained over 600 calories. After that revelation we decided to promote customers to actually look into the nutritional information of some of the drinks they regularly consumed. The next time I was at the smoothie shop I decided to follow suit. I was equally horrified to find out that my “healthy” smoothie contained over 1200 Calories!!! A BIG MAC has only 450, fries around 220, and a coke around 150-200. Ignoring what that meal would do to my internal parts, it’s stunning to think from a raw weight gain/loss standpoint I was better off with the McDonald’s meal over the smoothie.

Here are some other Healthy Drink Pointers for you.

Smoothies:
So maybe I chose unwisely up top, but there are healthy smoothies out there. Look for recipes from reputable sources that also post calorie information. If you visit a shop ask to see their nutritional charts, if they don’t have them, choose another smoothie stand… they might be so tasty because they add in some unhealthy options to bring you back.
Smoothie Myths
Breakfast Smoothies
Healthy Smoothies from Eating Well

Coffee:
The healthiest drink at Starbucks (or other coffee shop) is an espresso shot followed by the plain ole drip coffee. A tall coffee has only around 100-150 calories. An Americano (half coffee half hot water) is also a very healthy option. Next up is the Cappuccino due to the fact that the milk is heavily foamed and not as dense as the regular Latte (same exact ingredients, just different heating of the milk). The Coffee Frappuccino Blended Coffee (not “frap” – how’s that for remembering my Starbucks brand awareness training?) is actually quite low for what it is at around only 240 Calories or so.

The Venti’s on some drinks get quickly into the 3-400 calorie range so keep your drinks small. Avoid the added whip creams and ask for less pumps of the sweeteners if you can handle a stronger coffee flavor. Ask for non-fat milk instead of whole….I don’t remember exactly but part of me feels like the Soy milk actually has more calories, but I would need to see the fact sheet again. Stay away from the Universal Beverage Base Drinks at all cost (Frappuccino Blended Creams). They are made with non-fat milk, but are the worse drink items on the menu. I don’t think they still carry this drink, but there was a Double Chocolate Chip Frappuccino Blended Cream and I think the Venti of that topped in at over 750 calories if not more with all the whip, chocolate drizzle, etc.
NY Times on Health Benefits of Coffee

Wine:
Wine is everyone’s darling these days thanks to many published health reports stating it’s benefits. Everyone can quote some fact on red wine, but they often miss the fine print. Any benefits you gain from wine are quickly lost when you head over the two glass of day recommendation. The long-term negative benefits to your body when you go over two greatly outweigh the benefits gained. To quote from Winepros.org:

The keys to the beneficial aspects of wine drinking are regularity and moderation. The importance of this pattern of consumption this is almost impossible to over-emphasize. Overindulgence can be considerably more harmful than total abstinence.

Water:
This should be fairly obvious, but many people ignore water throughout their days, particularly here in hot, humid Asia. There’s debate going on right now as to some effects of water and how much should come from other sources such as fruits and others, but there’s no debate that we need it in our lives. So occasionally try to ignore the other drinks and opt for a glass of plain old water.
Mayo Clinic on Water

Tea:
I don’t think we need to sell our Asian readers on the benefits of Tea. The history with Teas here goes back many generations. For our non-Asian readers here are some links explaining why you should add more Tea into your daily routine…and for my faithful Texas readers it’s not just about the differences between “Sweet” and “Non-Sweet” Tea
Tea Association of the USA
Tea & Health Wiki