I’ve held off writing about this place for a while now. One reason is that I lost the notes from my first visit detailing the names of dishes The other reason is that as much as I think this place deserves customers, money and a slight bit of fame… I want it to stay smaller, more intimate, and I don’t want to have to wait weeks to get a table (not that our little review would launch it into a new level of success). But honestly every time I’ve visited with someone who hasn’t yet had it, or suggested this place to a friend looking for a new al fresco casual dinner place… every time they themselves have become regulars and gone back on their own. So in my mind if something as craptastic as Buko Nero can have a 2-3 month waiting list… why on earth isn’t everyone raving about Raw Kitchen Bar?

The location is laid back and hip without having to strain for it (cough, cough every restaurant on Dempsey Hill should go pay a visit to this place please). Finally a restaurant in Singapore that pulls off the mix matched tables and chairs. The interior space features rotating art work to view or perhaps purchase if so inspired. The atmosphere is open and suits any evening… quiet dinners, group get togethers… I’ve even seen folks bring their dog and enjoy a meal out back in the lawn!

As comfortable as the place is, it’s the food that brings me back. Nothing on the small, two-sided menu screams look at me, but everything is perfectly executed and offers something a bit more than what you expect. There’s always a slight refinement to every dish.

I almost always start with either the zucchini pancake with balsamic goat cheese and iberico ham or the wasabi tuna tartar with thyme flatbread. Both of these are sure to please just about anyone. The pancakes are creative and hold unexpected flavors combos. The iberico ham cuts through the goat cheese and balsamic, lifting a decent pancake into a truly special bite.

The tartar is fresh and inspiring. I’d wager that even those who don’t normally appreciate tartar can find something to like here. It’s not overly mushy and the wasabi refreshes as it brings a fresh lift to the palette.

For something different altogether you can get the mushroom bisque scallops with sweet tomatoes.

For mains someone at the table has to order the balsamic duck with butter potatoes and asparagus. The duck is fork tender and if you hold it up will just fall instantly off the bone. I’ve been completely full from apps and still managed to scrape the dish clean.

The two steaks on offer are a great value. I ordered one the first time just to get the sweet potato mash and roasted vegetables. The sides didn’t disappoint and the steak was way better than the price point would indicate (cheaper than most Dempsey hill hamburgers for crying out loud).

I’ve also ordered (but don’t have pictures of) the nori salmon with wasabi mash, bbq ribs, sweet marsala wine lamb chop, and the love raw! not war! burger. All have been excellent and I’m always hard pressed to choose a main. Everything’s a stand out to me.

As if all this wasn’t enough they have the decency to price the desserts reasonably. Molten chocolate cake with vanilla ice cream at 6 bucks.. done!

It might seem that I gush too much about this place. And setting the expectations so high, some might leave disappointed. But this place, to me, is perfect for what it is. A nice restaurant that’s not too snooty. It’s not the fanciest place in town with the most imaginative menu, but what they do they do really well and it’s a place you can go to more regularly and feel comfy and well fed. The chef/owner team is almost always on hand and greet you at the door, shake your hand or assist you in getting a cab home.

There should be more Raw Kitchen Bars in Singapore and less 30 dollar wagyu Dempsey Hill clone “hole in the wall” locations. If it were a bit closer I’d be there more than I already am.

Raw Kitchen Bar
276 Upper Bukit Timah Rd (tell the cab to head for Spectre or the old Firehouse)
588214
6467 3987

Why is it that Jean Georges seems to define the various culinary chapters of my life?

I first became aware of Jean Georges Vongerichten when I was living in New York. I was in advertising…it was the early 1990’s…expense accounts were fat (people in America not just yet;)…and I was just learning what it meant to eat really well. My first meal with JG, as he is known by foodies worldwide, was at JoJo in 1992. Funny because this is also my mother’s nickname for me, but personal coincidences aside, this was the meal that transformed me. Three courses of wonderment later, my eyes were opened to the startling possibilities of cuisine which pretty much put me on the trajectory of culinary exploration I have been on ever since.

After that was Vong…a Thai French fusion restaurant just 2 blocks north of my office. It became a regular lunch time haunt – and ironically my first taste of Thai food. JG actually worked at the Oriental Hotel in Bangkok early in his career so masterfully blended the styles. Little did I know then that the silky coconut milk and lemongrass infused broths and papaya salads would become my daily rations when I moved to Thailand some 10 years later.

Then in the late 1990’s Mercer Kitchen was the place to be – convivial NYers rubbing elbows at its communal tables. In 2004, Spice Kitchen ignited the whole Meat Packing District craze while Perry Street somehow brought a fresh perspective to traditional, old stomping grounds in the West Village. Somehow in retelling this tale, I realize many of my NY eras of living prominently feature JG restaurants. How did this man know exactly where I (and everyone else) wanted to be and what we wanted to eat?

And so it was no surprise that Jean Georges is now writing a new Asian chapter in my life in Asia. In Shanghai, the copper painted ceilings and dark, woody environs of Jean Georges’ restaurant evoke a NY contemporary feel, while the view of the Bund with its meandering Chinese junks on the river leaves no doubt one is in China. It’s romantic, yet co-worker appropriate…exclusive, yet welcoming….posh, yet comfortable. How does JG manage to strike just the right chord every time?

Paul decides on the 3 course set menu, which is a surprisingly good value at 250 RMB / $37 USD, featuring a nice selection of Asian inspired dishes:

1^st course
Tuna tartar, avocado, spicy radish and ginger marinade (PAUL’s PICK)
OR
Crispy Calamari, Yuzu Dip and Pickled Chilli

2^nd course
Pan Roasted Red Snapper, Coconut Lime Sauce & Sauteed Green Beans (PAUL’s PICK)
OR
JG Burger with fries (really?!?!?!?)

3^rd course
JG Molten Chocolate Cake with Vanilla Ice Cream (PAUL’s PICK)
OR
Poached White Peach with Berry Sauce, Almond and Sesame

I order a la carte, selecting the Foie Gras Brulee with Sweet & Sour Pineapple Compote (118 RMB / $17 USD) followed by the Pan Seared Salmon with Roasted Porcini, Green Chilli and Garlic (158 RMB / $23 USD) and the Crème Fraiche Cheesecake with Sour Cherry Compote (58 RMB / $8 USD)

Paul loved the tartar, but wished it had been lighter on the ginger and citrus…somehow the tuna got lost in the mix.

Whereas the foie gras brulee was excellent – simultaneously rich and sweet with the caramelized top, yet when combined with the pineapple the flavour profile is deftly transformed…a rich, creamy mouthful melting into a burst of freshness. Too bad that the presentation was a little less compelling – the circular shape of the foie gras was reminiscent of a sausage patty, but I was willing to overlook this small detail after tasting the dish.

The salmon was full of punches of lemon mellowed by a brown sauce. I loved the small, artistic touch of a cracker of fish skin perched rakishly on the plate.

Paul’s fish was also good, but I had clearly made the better choice.

And then the desserts…I was simultaneously relieved and disappointed by the dainty sizes of the desserts. This food reviewing is tough on the waistline, but then again dessert is typically my favorite part of the meal. Paul’s molten chocolate cake was as expected – deliciously rich and decadent, comforting in its perfect rendition of a crowd pleasing favorite.

My Crème Fraiche Cheesecake was simply lovely with the sour cherry sauce playing its necessary role to cut the richness of the crème fraiche.

What can I say, it was a lovely meal. I think next time we will probably not order the set menu, only because somehow the a la carte choices were less predictable and better executed. But all in all JG never disappoints, so it is hard to imagine ever making a bad choice.

When in Shanghai, you simply must get to Jean Georges. And to finish off a perfectly chic evening, head to the neighbouring Glamour Bar.

Jean Goerges on the Bund
No. 3 on the Bund, 4^th Floor
3 Zhong Shan Dong Yi Road
Shanghai, China 200002
Telephone: +86 21 6321 7733

We’ll start the series with one of my favorite dining terms – Amuse-Bouche.

An Amuse-Bouche literally means “to amuse the mouth” but I’ve also heard it loosely translated as a perfect bite. An Amuse-Bouche isn’t like an appetizer in that it’s sent out by the chef and not selected by the diner.

You should be able to eat an Amuse-Bouche in one bite, but I have run across some that require a couple of bites… some were so tasty I certainly didn’t mind

An amuse-bouche tells me a few things about a restaurant the moment it hits the table, regardless of taste. One, that the chef has “fine dining” aspirations as it seems an almost essential course for any Michelin starred restaurant. Two, that the chef is concerned with the tastes and journey the diner will go on during the course of the meal. By that I mean that the chef wants to give a special gift at the start of the meal to awaken the palate, showcase flavors, introduce ingredients, and / or all of the above. Lastly I can tell by looking at the amuse how inventive the chef is. I don’t think that every amuse has to be a wildly creative concoction, but it should be flavorful, respect the ingredients, etc. If a chef can’t handle a single bite, what are we in store for with a whole course?

The amuse pictured up above is one of the tastiest things I’ve ever had the pleasure of eating. It was served to us at Omae Xex, the former Tokyo restaurant of Iron Chef Morimoto now turned over to his long-time sous chef Takeshi Omae. The amuse in question was a lovely beef tartar with eggplant and iberico ham served in a sort of waffle cone. Amazingly this bite edged out the insanely marbled Kobe steak that came out later in the meal. I would have happily dined on a meal of nothing but these wonderful cones of raw beef. We’d previously dined at another 1 Michelin star teppanyaki restaurant while in Tokyo and this amuse told us that though Omae Xex might have the same 1-star rating as the other restaurant, we were in for a whole other level of dining.

What’s your favorite amuse-bouche or have you had one? Let us know in the comments.

Paul

Imagine Jim Thompson house. Now strip away the legend, crappy silk (I’ll give you that it looks good, but Thai silk is the least comfy silk I’ve ever had the displeasure of touching), over inflated prices, and throngs of farangs decked out in sandals and fanny packs. Does such a place exist in Bangkok? Well… I don’t know if it’s considered Bangkok proper, but with a short drive you’ll be away from the masses and relaxing at Amantee.

I’ll be upfront with this review. I know the head chef. I met him at an early Christmas party before leaving Bangkok for Singapore… which was a shame because Jeremie is a fantastic guy and great chef. A couple weeks later, Joanna and I had no other plans for Christmas Eve and so joined Jeremie and Kitty and others for a meal I still dream about to this day. Since leaving we’ve made a point to hang out with Jeremie every time we’re back in Bangkok.

This time back to Bangkok we decided no excuses, if we don’t do anything else we’ll find a way to make it to Amantee – or more specifically Le Cafe at Amantee. Despite covering scores of restaurants and locations for various publications while in Bangkok I had honestly never heard of Amantee before this, which is a shame…or is it better that it’s not super popular yet? Hard to say…

Amantee is located in Chaeng Wattana. The sprawling house and garden areas give guests a sense of escape and vintage Thai… without going full bore into the typical tackiness that ensues from white people attemping “classic Thai”.

We were escorted around the main building which is a showroom for antique Oriental and Tibetan furniture. There’s much on offer and Joanna and I were kicking ourselves for not venturing out here before moving to Singapore to load up on furniture.

Through the showroom you step back into the housing area of the compound. There’s a single guest bed – perferct for a romantic getaway or place to come for a retreat.

Don’t get me wrong, this was all amazing… but I came for the food. We were escorted back to the small, intimate kitchen which was completely out of someone’s home and not a large commercial kitchen. We watched for a few minutes as the two helpers prepared the basics for the day’s lunch service.

The tables are outside overlooking the greenery… peaceful and relaxing, just a perfect place for brunching.

The small, well-chosen menu was delivered and I had trouble deciding. Thankfully we had Jeremie on hand to ask questions. This wasn’t just because we’re friends, he often comes out and advises customers on what’s fresh or special that day. The menu features a fusion of French and Thai cuisine… normally fusion can be a bit iffy in Bangkok, but is done tastefully here. Check out the menu here. He could show off with heavy French sauces or something similar, but shows restraint and presents a menu that is perfect for the environment, time of day, and clientele.

We started with a chilled cauliflower soup with crispy bacon (200 THB). The chilled soup was perfect for a Bangkok afternoon and was a great start to the meal. Plus, who doesn’t love bacon? I regularly witness vegetarians sneaking a piece or two when they think no one’s looking

At our Christmas Eve dinner Jeremie served a stunning Tuna Tartare that had bits of pistachio throughout to give it some competing textures. I’ve talked, probably too much, about this dish ever since. He had a version of it on the menu and I wrestled with going for what you know over experimenting. With a slight nudge from Jeremie I opted instead for the Scallop Carpaccio – consisting of Japanese Scallops, fennel, dill, and a refreshing pastis dressing. The fennel was raw and so gave more of a crispy, refreshing taste to the dish instead of a stronger liquorish flavor.

Joanna went for the Mushroom Quiche with Mesclun in Italian Balsamic (200 THB). The quiche pastry was perfectly cooked and not too heavy or filling.

We decided to share the Elba Salad – grilled zucchini, eggplant, yellow capsicum, fennel, and asparagus with Italian balsamic dressing (200 THB). This is a perfect summer lunch plate (and it’s always summer in Bangkok).

After the meal Joanna sipped on a nice glass of wine and I enjoyed an Iced Coffee and a chocolate mousse with raspberry coulis (140). Combined with our conversation with Jeremie it was a perfect end to the meal.

We didn’t just leave with our bellies full. Tempted by a special cash price, Joanna picked up an antique Chinese box that she’s converted into a jewelry box. The owner himself wrapped it up for us to ensure it would make the flight back to Singapore

I’m a tough critic. Even more so when it’s friends… ask anyone who knows me if I regularly pull punches or not. There wasn’t anything negative to say here, not because Jeremie is our friend, but because the place is exceptional. Prices are reasonable, food is fresh and appropriate to the venue/climate/time of day, and the entire compound is beautiful. I don’t want to oversell the place and leave you guessing that I’m a schill… but this place is a must visit.

If you need a quiet getaway, lunch spot, have friends in from out of town, first time visitors to Thailand… any excuse really, stop by Amantee (or try to get yourself invited to one of Jeremie’s house parties ). Chat with Jeremie, see what’s fresh today, and enjoy your refuge from gritty, noisy Bangkok.

Amantee
131/3 Chaeng Wattana 13, Laksi,
Bangkok 10210 Thailand