I miss SE Asian food. Since I moved to Shanghai, my palate misses the spices, the sheer heat of bird chili as well as lemongrass and sambal. That was until I discovered Cafe Sambal in Jiashan Market. Cho Chong Gee, the owner, hails from Malaysia and delivers authentic Malaysian food daily at Cafe Sambal. Whether it’s a curry you are craving, or satay, beef randang or rojak…the menu is chock full of Malaysian specialties.

I went with a half Malaysian friend as a barometer. Malaysian is probably the SE Asian cuisine with which I have the least experience. Some, but not a lot. And I wanted to get a local’s point of view. We decided to go for a leisurely Sunday brunch in order to try as many dishes as possible. Does Cafe Sambal deliver? Indeed it does.

To shake the wintry chill of Shanghai, we started with a warming cup of Tea Tarik – a spicy, ginger milk tea common to Malaysia. As we perused the menu my dining companion started to get excited. There were so many dishes he wanted to try and he started to talk excitedly – curries, noodles, fish cakes! Turns out the 88RMB brunch menu provides lots of dishes for sharing which was perfect considering a growing fear that our eyes were way bigger than our stomachs. In fact the brunch menu is special in that Cafe Sambal adds special dishes that they don’t have time to make during the week, and as a result the menu changes about every 2 weeks. Another good reason to come back again!

So with the brunch menu we were able to try:

Chicken Satay, an elevated version using better cuts of meat than the typical street food versions

Otak Otak, a Nonya-style fish cake wrapped in banana leaf

Accar, pickled papaya salad with peanuts and sesame

Fried Chicken with Sambal

Hokkein noodle with minced pork, this was one of my favourites and I desperately wanted to have a 2nd portion but didn’t want to be piggy

Beef Rendang, the best this side of Kuala Lumpur

Prawn fritter, a Cafe Sambal translation of a classic street food & Prawn with lemongrass and chili, a spicy classic (see above)

Hokkein meat roll, the ordinary name simply doesn’t do it justice, this is like a Malaysian meat loaf and who doesn’t like meatloaf?

Dragon Bean with cashew nut sauce, this was new to me and despite it’s appearance was also a favourite, don’t let the prehistoric look of the dragon beans scare you

And if that is not enough , a couple of amazing dessers including Kuih Dadar and Sago Gula Melaka.

Two things impressed me about this brunch and Cafe Sambal. The quality of the food and the value of the brunch menu. It makes for an amazing combination that will certainly keep me coming back. If you are a lover of SE Asian cuisine, you must pay Cafe Sambal a visit.

Cafe Sambal
Jiashan Park
37A, Lane 550 Shanxi Nan Lu,
near Shaoxing Lu
Shanghai, China
Telephone: +86 21 3368 9529

• Willy Trullas Moreno from his namesake restaurant El Willy
• Dicky To at Yi Long Court, Cantonense restaurant in the Peninsula Hotel on the Bund
• Tom Swe Tae Thein from Lost Heaven, a favourir Yunnan restaurant in Shanghai
• Paul Pairet of one of my favourite restaurants in Shanghai, Mr. & Mrs. Bund
• Sushi chef Hatch Kenjiro Hashida at Shanghai’s new sushi / sake lounge, The Geisha

Enjoy

One of my many laments of living in Asia has been the lack of access to craft beers, otherwise known as microbrews - the other laments are silly things like missing multigrain breads, the price of wine, and truly high-speed internet, but I guess this is a relatively small price to pay for having such a rich life otherwise.

I was able to get the odd Belgian ale in a ocassional bar here and there (usually at prices that constituted highway robbery!), but I really missed kicking back after work and having that one perfect beer at home. Why one? Sometimes a beer is so rich, so full of flavour and so satisfying that one is all you need. It is like having a bite of a perfect dessert instead of some of that reduced fat nonsense that consistently disappoints. Don’t get me wrong, I love a light local pilsner or lager, but every now and again I desperately crave a masterful beer crafted by Belgian monks or by hippies from Oregon, USA. So when I found Cheers-In, I felt like a kid in a candy store. In fact I am not entirely sure I fully understood the true sentiment of that expression until I walked into a Cheers-in. So much to try, so much to taste, too many beers and not enough days…it felt like an embarrassment of riches.

All my favourite Belgian beers were at Cheers-In. The standards like Chimay and Duvel and Leffe were available, but then also some of the more obscure like Trappistes Rochefort 6. And then my favourite SE Asian beer, Beer Laos, caught my eye. And being from NY, of course the Brooklyn Lager stuck out as well. On top of these gems - I was able to try beers I had never seen like Rogue Dead Guy Ale from Oregon. Suddenly I was in beer heaven.

I had to find out more, so I spoke to the owners and visited the store. Actually you can buy in one of their locations or order from the website (they can even deliver cold!!!).  I was surprised to find a group of Frenchmen from various corporate backgrounds who left those worlds to start up this entrepreneurial endeavour. When I asked “Why beer, instead of wine? It seems all the French people I meet in Asia are involved in wine,” one of the owners, Greg, said “That’s exactly why. We wanted to do something different.” Touche.

I was also excited to learn that Cheers-In has about 200 different kinds of beer and if you have a special request that they don’t carry, they will make every effort to get it. “We are adding new countries every time someone requests a beer from their country. We just added Chile,” says Greg. Out of curiosity I ask, “What is your best-selling beer?” Greg tells me that Americans order a lot of Coors Light – I am vaguely embarrassed to be American at this juncture and am quick to point out how much I like Belgian ales, ha ha.

It is times like these that I want to kick myself…when someone has a simple entrepreneurial idea, brilliantly executed in Asia. I wonder, “Why didn’t I think of that?!?!?” But hey, I am just glad someone had the idea, because now my hunt for draft beers and microbrews in Shanghai is over.

There are 2 retail locations in Xuhui and a website:

- 25 Yongkang Lu (French Concession)
- 499Beijing Xi Lu (Jing An)

Hi folks -

So I started writing for CNN and CNNgo as well and I thought you might want to check out my first article. Have a look.

In this piece I talk about the 5 best tasting menus in Shanghai, including:

- M1NT

- Stiller’s

- Maison Pourcel

- Chicha Lounge

- Jean Georges

Enjoy

Cocktail culture is sweeping Shanghai and there is no finer example of a proper cocktail bar / lounge than El Coctel.

Seemingly hidden in speakeasy style, El Coctel is located up an unmarked narrow staircase in the French Concession district of Shanghai. The soft spoken Japenese bartender Munne-san makes cocktails in the traditional Ginza style. In fact Munne is no ordinary bartender, he is a mixologist in the classic sense of the word. No nitrogen or molecular gastronomic elements, simply perfect cocktails, everytime.

When I ask Munne about what makes for a perfect cocktail, I learn that it is a lot more considered and thoughtful than I ever expected. While Munne is exceedingly modest, he is a world class bartender who can look at a bowl of fruit and know how much it will yield and if extra is needed for the night. Fruit is peeled or squeezed to order, so that drinks are at their freshest. He is as meticulous about the order of ingredients as a chemist. There is a very precise reason why some drinks are shaken (to add air and make it smoother and colder) -vs- stirred (keep a clear, crisp taste to the drink). Like an artist, he has studied color theory in order to bring this knowledge into his cocktails. He even hand makes the ice for each cocktail. It turns out that it has it has a huge role in the quality of the resulting drink. Whisky gets a single, large round sphere of ice – it melts slower, keeping the whisky in its proper neat form. Summer drinks like the Campari Basil Smash get crushed ice – to enhance refreshment. Other ice is hand cut from a large block of ice – these large chunks are perfect for drinks like a classic Gin & Tonic.

So, I am curious…I ask Munne what the most popular cocktail is at El Coctel, “the mojito,” he says. “And what about in Tokyo,” I inquire. He instantly shoots back, “classic Gin & Tonic.” I also favour the Gin & Tonic myself – but with Hendrick’s cucumber scented gin. Hendrick’s is nearly impossible to find in Asia…but they have all manner of exoctic rums, gins and whisky at El Coctel. Turns out the G&T is also Munne’s favourite cocktail and he gives me a hint on how to make a softer and rounder G&T. He suggests to add fresh lime juice (in addition to the traditional wedge) to tone down the sweetness of the tonic.

And on top of this Munne serves his classic cocktails in one of the most comfortable and cozy places in Shanghai. El Coctel, for me, is like cool speakeasy meets plush lounge. The soft lighting casts a golden glow on Munne and his customers as they sit in a mish mash of antique chairs and table and sip his masterful cocktails. Also what is unique about El Coctel is that the environment is lively enough to feel festive, yet quiet enough to have conversation. But make a booking, this is not a place you can just walk into and have a seat – ever since it opened almost 2 years ago, El Coctel has been a runaway hit.

(P.S. Insider tip – try the sandwiches, they are melt-in-your-mouth divine. I like the Asparagus & 3 Cheese or the Italian Ham & Mozzerella Cheese with Truffle Oil.)

El Coctel
2/F, 47 Yongfu Lu, near Fuxing Xi Lu
Shanghai, China
Telephone: +86 21 6433 6511

Who knew there was such a plethora of organic farming in Shanghai?!?

Underneath the Hermes scarf and the Italian driving loafers, I must confess…I have an inner hippie. She lurks beneath the surface and pops out occasionally. I think it has something to do with growing up in the South and spending time on a family farm, living in the ultra-liberal town of Chapel Hill, North Carolina as well as attending a few Grateful Dead shows along the way (and yes, wearing tie dye at a few points). So my inner hippie was tickled when I found out about the burgeoning organic farming and CSA (Community Supported Agriculture) scene in Shanghai. What I had heard more about were the food scandals like melamine and milk and exploding watermelons, so the last thing I expected was the true passion and commitment of some Chinese farmers to raise organic, free range chickens and grow whole, completely natural foods…and in fact very close to the city center of Shanghai.

Knowing I am all about food and food related things, my friend Phyllis invited me to go with her to visit an organic farm just outside Shanghai. I was intrigued, for the reasons mentioned earlier, but also because I had sought this sort of thing out in Singapore when I lived there. You would think that CSA farms and home deliveries would be common in 1^st world countries – they are in the US and Europe. But in fact in Singapore, there were simply no viable options short of trekking up to Malaysia, and even there, options were scarce.

Off we went to Yi Mu Tian Farm, a Chinese owned and operated organic farm on Chongming Island about 1.5 hours outside of Shanghai city center. On Yi Mu Tian, they have everything from pumpkins, strawberries, tomatoes, chilis and herbs to organic chickens (only 180RMB / 2 Euro) and eggs. They grow everything in greenhouse style houses for 2 reasons. One it protects the crop during inclimate weather and two, it keeps the bugs out. The use no chemicals at all on the crops and in fact when they do spot some undesirable bugs and worms, they send the chickens in to eat them! In fact, this is why they got the chickens in the first place, but then they realized there was also a market for their free range chicken workers

As it should be Yi Mu Tian, along with all other organic farms, they only grow seasonally. So crops are not forced based on consumer demand for year round strawberries. Rather they grow them in the season where they will prosper and in fact taste the best. As we walked the farm I pulled a couple of strawberries off the vine and I can say with confidence, I have never tasted a more naturally sweet strawberry in my life. Not the bloated yet perfect supermarket strawberry, but a small morsel of goodness. I can imagine eating a bowl for dessert and completely sating my sweet tooth.

And it turns out there was an option to have lunch at the farm where a vegetarian lunch of all their current products in season would be presented. Everything was fresh from the field and you could see it in the vibrant color of the veggies as well as taste it. Have you ever had the experience where seafood is so fresh, you feel like you can taste the sea? Well imagine that experience translated to vegetables. The cherry tomatoes were so good, I was popping them in my mouth like potato chips. Seriously.  

I started to wonder…were there more places like this in Shanghai. And I found out there are several, all doing home delivery. So you can order produce (and chicken in some cases) and have it delivered to your door the same day it was picked! As I thought about the sad little packages at my local supermarket of vaguely wilted produce imported from Australia and New Zealand, I vowed to change my shopping habits.

So I have been experimenting with various CSA home delivery providers in Shanghai. Some places are more convenient than others, where you can pick the date and time of delivery, others less so. But all have been quite impressive in terms of the quality of the foods.

• Yu Mu Tian –  as mentioned above, has a wide variety of produce, eggs, chicken and herbs and delivers once a week. The biggest issue for me at the moment is that the website is currently in Chinese (they are adding English), so it’s hard for me to order online.
• Shanghai Organic  – has a very user friendly website in English and Chinese, and offers over 120 different kinds of produce and organic rices. They deliver Mon – Sun, which creates a lot of flexibility.
• Tony’s Farm – this is probably the biggest organic farm in Shanghai and is operated more like a traditional CSA in the sense that you get a “mystery box” every week of what is available and fresh that week. I know a lot of home cooks who love this because it forces them to be creative. For me, I travel a lot and an often dining out so committing to the minimum 3kg of veg a week is a bit daunting. The website also has recipes which can help you with those unusual veggies that you might not quite know how to handle.
• Fields – this isn’t a farm, but an online organic grocery store.  It has pretty much everything you would expect from produce and grains, to fruits and herbs, to personal care products and bakery goods. But what really got me was the variety and quality of the organic meats and seafood. Real bacon, tiger prawns and thick US / Aussie style steaks in particular  got my attention.

And this is just in Shanghai.   As it turns out, this is part of an overall sustainability / green movement in China. Unlike other countries in the world where green awareness was driven by the government, in China it started with a generation. The 25 – 34 year-old generation that grew up with an open China and a great deal of exposure to the outside world, living in a richer, more globally-integrated China. They tend to be more outwardly motivated, preferring foreign brands and often seeking to emulate American or European models of lifestyle and success vs. the older generations. And in doing so have brought environmental concerns into the conversation in China.

Who knew in Shanghai I would find such a plethora of organic options?  There is something special about seeing where your food is grown. And I don’t know about you, but I prefer to eat a ripe, juicy tomato fresh from the field vs. a perfectly red grocery store specimen with no flavor.

Just another reason to be inspired by China.

Why Shanghai is one of the most exciting cities in the world right now!

I have been coming to Shanghai now for 4 years. For those who came in the 80’s and 90’s and saw a wholly different China this will no doubt seem very recent. My Shanghai experiences have always been rich and exciting, but it wasn’t until I relocated here that I came to know the city more intimately. There are many reasons why Shanghai might just be the coolest place in the world to be right now. I won’t bang on about the economy and such, because this is widely known…instead I will share my thoughts on why Shanghai has captured my heart and why it might just capture yours as well. 

1) Architecture – from modern skyscrapers to charming lane houses
Shanghai is big – 22 million people in one city, same as the entire population of Australia. Yet because the space of the city is so big, the Chinese were able to build out, not always up. This means that while there are some super duper skyscrapers, there are more low rise buildings, fascinating architecture and lovely little lanes with 100+ year old houses. The outcome of this varied landscape is a city that is at once full of cutting edge, modern engineering masterpieces and charming little areas full of old world personality and a time gone by. It’s the seamless way these blend in modern day Shanghai that’s absolutely inspiring vs. other parts of Asia where the “old world” has been ruthlessly replaced for the sake of progress.

2) The markets – from lighting to pearls to silks

Turns out if there is a category of products there is a market for it. As I am shopping for a variety of things I have discovered a market for house plants, a market just for pets, a market for lighting (where you can buy everything from tabletop lamps to iron street lamps) and even a market for pearls. The place I keep going again and again is the fabric market, I find myself here having everything from silk dresses to silk curtains made. My friend even had a Wonder Woman outfit made for a costume party. If you can dream it, they have it in Shanghai…at some market, some where.

3) Nightlife is hot!
After having lived in NYC and Bangkok and visited a great many other cities with pulsing night life scenes, I wasn’t sure what to expect in Shanghai. But it’s all here – from cool cocktail lounges to seedy dive bars to reggae bars to slick night clubs to hard-core dance clubs to gay bars / clubs to late night girls-dancing-on-the-tables kind of places. From private parties requiring “passwords” to new opening parties it seems about every week for some new place. There’s no excuse not to go out in Shanghai – the problem is deciding where!

4) Vibrant and progressive culinary scene
I hear this is really in the last 5 years, but you cannot cross the street without running into some cool new restaurant with a chef that’s trying new things. From Mr. & Mrs. Bund to Maison Pourcel to Stiller’s to El Willy there’s an explosion of high quality European culinary destinations. And then there’s all manner of local favourites, like Lynn or Di Shui Dong.  And this is barely scratching the surface. As an expat, I also have the feeling I am only seeing a small sliver of the culinary action as well. I plan to pick my new Chinese friends’ brains on the more local places, especially after a recent street-side and mind blowing jiaozi (that’s gyoza or friend dumpling) binge.

5) A truly blooming art culture
There seems to be an irrepressible need for the Chinese to express themselves…and now that they are allowed to (as long as it is government friendly), it is as if the flood gates have opened. While Beijing is still the cultural center, Shanghai is evolving from a city of commerce to also be a city of culture. Whether it’s the Suzhou Creek Art District or Taikang Lu (admittedly less artistic and more commercial these days versus the past) or any of the galleries holding exhibitions all over town, there’s no doubt the Chinese contemporary art scene is booming.

6) Post Olympics and Expo
The Beijing 2008 Olympics have come and gone as has the 2010 Expo in Shanghai. What does this mean? It means that the country has upgraded airports, transportation, road quality and public parks at a level of investment unmatched by any time in the past. I have been traveling to Shanghai for about 4 years and I am just flabbergasted by the transformation of the Bund. It’s exactly what it could have been many years ago, but just like it takes a house move for you to clean out your closet, it takes a big international event for a country to do its housecleaning and repairs. So now in Shanghai you can enjoy flowers planted on the side of the road, slightly reduced pollution and city parks and spaces that are at their aesthetic peak.

7) Access to a vast and varied country
There are more than 160 cities in China with populations of over 1 million people. China is #2 in the ranking of the world’s most billionaires and #3 in the ranking of the world’s most millionaires. And in fact the number of billionaires rose from 64 to 115 in only 1 year! Yet under this back drop of progress and prosperity, there are still extremely rural parts of China. One of the world’s oldest civilizations is also the world’s most dichotomous in terms of economic disparity and development. What this means for the traveler is that Shanghai is the perfect perch from which to explore this 3.7 million square mile country of 33 very individual provinces. There are 40 UNESCO World Heritage sites in China. From ancient capitals like Beijing and Xi’an to old towns like Wuhan to Qufu to the beaches on Hainan Island, one could spend their whole life exploring this vast and varied country.

Tell us, why do you love Shanghai?

A culinary experience that is like teleporting to the South of France

Shanghai has no shortage of wonderful French restaurants, but La Table at  Maison Pourcel might just be one of the most memorable French meals we have had in Shanghai…and in fact one of the most memorable meals of the last few years for us at AE. The Michelin-starred Pourcel brothers bring culinary perfection to bear on a simultaneously traditional and inventive Mediterranean French menu in location that’s as storied as the brothers themselves.

The building, known as Red House, has been part of Shanghai for years housing various Western restaurants since the 1930’s. The Pourcel brothers have transformed this large space into a haven of gastronomy that is at once personal and intimate yet also grand.

Studiobar on the 6th floor houses a French tapas bar, private rooms, a balcony

and an extensive wine room containing over 3000 bottles of wine.

The restaurant sits 2-stories up on the 8th floor boasting 180-degree views of the French Concession. But honestly once the food started to arrive, we scarcely looked past the table as the real focus was on the food.

In the tragedy that faces many diners in a fine restaurant, we struggled to decide what to order. Everything beckoned, but decisions had to be made. We had the opportunity to meet Jacques Pourcel before the dinner and asked him about his food philosophy – he explained it was a “study in contrasts” and so we decided to choose dishes that we thought would best represent this.

Paul, never one to pass on a pumpkin soup, chose the Puree of Pumpkin and Chesnut with Sliced Truffle, Cracked Hazelnut Emulsion, Bread Chips and Comte Cheese. The soup was probably one of my favourite dishes of the meal (Paul and I shared it : ) It was somehow both delicate and hearty  – creatively layered with the hazelnuts on the bottom, then truffles and the silky pumpkin puree on top.

Next up was a Traditional Pate wrapped in Brioche, a classic South of France dish. Pure and simple…and delicious.

Actually at this point we are getting full, but there are many other courses to arrive. We knew we were in trouble if everything kept coming out so consistently and perfectly executed! And so it was then it was the Duck Liver and Cepes Ravioli arrived. Buried under a mountain of foam were the mouthwateringly good ravioli. The richness of the duck liver was deftly cut with the addition of a sweet pumpkin puree. (188RMB)

Paul was particularly excited about the next dish – a Crispy Egg Stuffed with Slightly Scrambled Egg and Mashed Green Pea served with Toasted Bread topped with Truffle and Duck Liver (188RMB). I loved the whole concept of an egg inside an egg. The egg was simply crusted in cornflour and inside, as promised, were soft scrambled eggs.

Next up was a Scallop cooked in its Shell with Fava Beans, steamed inside a Pastry Crust. The presentation was as exciting as the dish. As the server broke the bread seal, a delicate briny aroma wafted up and prepared us for the taste that was to follow.

Finally (I know this was an incredibly indulgent meal) we enjoyed our main courses. Paul chose the Pan-fried Beef Fillet with Bone Marrow, Pan-fried Duck Liver with Braised Silver Beets and Truffled Gnocchi. Think about it…steak, truffles, foie gras, marrow and gnocchi…it doesn’t get more decadent than that!

Or does it? I ordered the Suckling Pig with Caramelized Roasted Pork Chops, Spiced Pear-Quince Compote and Crispy Skin. It was a crispy plate of pork goodness, alternating between succulent and crispy. Decadent somehow seems to fall short of describing this course.

And on to dessert. As is often the case with gastronomic restaurants we were surprised with a pre-dessert, a Pineapple Granite with Coconut Foam.

For the “regular” dessert Paul ordered the Green Tea Parfait in a Chocolate Shell (198 RMB)

and I tried the Vanilla Souffle with Rose-bud Confit and Sherbet (88 RMB). Both desserts were clever interplays of richness with bright and fresh contrasts.

It was in fact as Jacques had promised…whether it was the interplay between crispy and succulent pork, or the contrast between rich foie gras and sweet pumpkin, the palate was teased and delighted. Despite that we eat a great many “memorable” meals, we agreed this was among the most memorable. With 15 restaurants worldwide that they either own or had a great hand in shaping, one might mistakenly think they are executing a “formula” a la Joel Roubuchon, but this is simply not the experience that we had. Not only was this epic feast luxurious and decadent, but it was also thoughtful and at times playful. It is in fact the contrast, just like in life, that makes for a winning gastronomic experience.

Le Table at Maison Pourcel
35 South Shan Xi Road, Near Changle Road
Shanghai, China
Telephone: +86 (21) 6215 8777

The clever genius behind Mr. & Mrs. Bund’s lively yet serious menu (two recipes at end of article)

Meet Paul Pairet – the Executive Chef of Mr. & Mrs. Bund Shanghai – a clever and experimental molecular gastronomist from Jade on 36 (in its heyday) who has brought his own irreverent take on French cuisine to his own place on Shanghai’s chic bund location. After an inspiring meal at M &M Bund, I had to meet the chef and see if I could get some insight on the vision that made this one of the most unique dining experiences I have enjoyed in a very long time.

First let me start with what made my dining experience at Mr & Mrs Bund so unique. I have never been to a French restaurant quite like this one. The meal was playful, the dishes idiosyncratic yet classic, presentations experimental yet unfussy, the service impeccable yet warm and casual and the overall quality of the foods…well, quite possibly flawless. I have been back since and realize this is no fluke, Chef Pairet is on to something here.

It’s probably no coincidence that his first cooking memories were from a Disney cookbook that he had received as a gift at age 9. Loosely translated as “The Good Recipe from the Grandmother,” it put a twist on the recipes and made them fun, using ingredients like Coca Cola. Perhaps if not for this book, Chef Pairet would have never started cooking. Then after a summer job where he ran the kitchen 1 night a week that he could actually see and enjoy diners eating and enjoying the things he prepared. It was then Chef Pairet realized that cooking had meaning for him beyond the job itself. Pariet says, “seeing my effect on people eating my food was profound,” even if it was inspired by something as simple as a croque monsieur.

Chef Pairet enrolled in a cooking school at age 18 and was fortunate enough to have one of the best professors in France at the time. Top notch instruction and training combined with Chef Pairet’s affinity for science and math led to the unique culinary style that one sees at M & M Bund today. Some might call it experimental molecular gastronomy while others might describe it as simple and ingredient focused – either way, Chef Pairet doesn’t see these two in opposition. He believes his culinary passion stems from relating most everything he sees or does to a new culinary idea – whether the idea that emerges is simple and seasonal or complex and experimental.

When I asked Chef Pairet how he manages to achieve a high level of detail and precision in execution with a staff of 100+, he says “I am not a better cook than some of the cooks in my kitchen. They have the same technical skills as the executive chef to execute a dish. My role is in the composition.” Chef Pairet describes this process of composition or creation as a “poetic process.” Having a history in writing poetry – I get it. It’s in the cadence of the words, the alliteration or rhyme…the details that transform a collection of words on a page to something meaningful that can touch both the writer and the reader deeply. So building on the poetry analogy, if Chef Pairet were a poet perhaps he would combine the flawless, classic style of Emily Dickenson with the raw emotion of Anne Sexton and top it off with a sprinkling of the brilliant irreverence of Dr. Seuss.

And Chef Pairet is not running out of ideas anytime soon. With a new project in the works, there is no doubt he will continue to make his mark on the Shanghai culinary scene.

VERY FRESH WATERMELON LICORICES STICK
Ingredients:
Watermelon
500 G Vanilla Syrup*
750G Muscat Brown Brothers*
175G Lime Puree*
50G Aniseed Licorice Essence*
(* For the Marinade)

Preparation:
Whisk all Lime Licorice Marinade ingredients together and store in container with tight fitting lid.
Cut watermelon into rectangular shape 1.5X1.5X5.5cm
Submerge in Lime Licorice Marinade and refrigerate for 24 hours.
Skewer watermelon halfway.
Freeze
Serve directly from freezer (optional garnish with basil leaves)

HAM RACLETTE BONBON
Ingredients:
1 Unit White Ham
10G Lemon Zest
3G Salt
1G Crushed Black Pepper
Gruyere Cheese

Preparation:
Mix Lemon zest, salt and pepper for Lemon Salt.
Cut ham into cubes 2X2X1.5cm
Cut Gruyere Cheese 2X2X1cm Lay Cheese on Ham.
Brush cheese with olive oil.
Lightly season with Lemon Salt.
Stylishly wrap in roasting bags or chef’s paper.
Tightly clip with clothes pins.
Microwave 8seconds or until cheese is soft throughout.
Remove clothes pins and serve immediately.

Mr & Mrs Bund
Bund 18, 6th Floor
18 Zhong Shan Dong Yi Road
Shanghai, China
Telephone: +86 21 6323 9898

Chill cocktails by the fire in this cozy Shanghai bar / lounge

We met a friend for drinks on a wintry Sunday afternoon in Shanghai. While it was cold and rainy and altogether unpleasant outside, we were comfy and cozy next to the fireplace at Cotton’s in the French Concession. As Wilco and other cool indie bands played on the stereo system we cozied up with some Irish coffees and spent some time chatting and catching up. What a wonderful, relaxing way to spend an afternoon.

Cotton’s is long known by the expat set in Shanghai, popular for its themed evenings, special events and Mon – Sat Happy Hours (4-8pm buy one get one free). Its setting in an historic residential villa creates a charming and inviting atmosphere. In the winter one can sit indoors by the fire, while in the summer the outdoor garden is in demand. This, combined with expertly mixed cocktails and a solid menu, make it a place we’ll for sure be returning to in Shanghai.

Cotton’s
132 Anting Lu, near Jianguo Xi Lu
Shanghai, China
Telephone: +86 21 6433 7995