However in Japan teppanyaki is much different. They’re not enthusiastically flipping shrimp into the diners mouths or spewing cheesy one-liners. At restaurants like Sazanka in Tokyo, the chef is still on show… but it’s more about his skilled precision and the quality of the ingredients.

We decided to head over to Sazanka for our first teppanyaki meal due in large part to a list of Michelin star lunch specials in Tokyo on Sunny Pages. If you’re ever visiting Tokyo in particular and have time in the day free I’d highly recommend hitting up as many of these restaurants as you can during lunch time as you can eat at some truly wonderful restaurants on the cheap.

We took a train into Roppongi and left a bit early as we didn’t know exactly how far away the hotel would be. It was a little bit out of the way, but through charades, gestures, and grunts we managed to get some building guards to point us in the right direction.

I should just come out and say that Hotel Okura is a bit dated in appearance and the long walk to Sazanka doesn’t raise one’s hopes too much about the cuisine. This is not a kitschy, hole-in-the-wall restaurant. It’s a dated hotel, with dated interior… a time capsule to the late 70′s or early 80′s.

The walls are plain, clean and free from tacky wall scrolls of inky drawn koi fish. In fact the only “art” on display here is a glass case showing off the quality of the cuts of beef being served

But the food is what people come for. And it’s good. Lunch sets are around 4725 Yen (or around 50 USD)…. not cheap, but over half off the dinner rates. The set includes an amuse from the chef

A fresh Japanese salad.

Wonderfully fresh and not at all spongy sea Scallops. These are the kinds of scallops everyone thinks they serve at fancy restaurants in the west.

And steak. Glorious steak. No matter the cut, you’ll get a tender, juicy, perfectly cooked slab of meat skillfully prepared table-side. Served lovingly with a side of fried garlic, some grilled veggies, and a bonus treat (which sadly I have on video but not on stills due to us both devouring it before pausing for photos) of cut off the fat from the steak, minced into super small cuts and grilled till just a bit crispy. Something everyone should get to eat once in their lifetime.

After the main course you’re moved over to a lounge area where you enjoy coffee and a dessert treat.

The service and experience here are top notch and the cooks are all excellent – easily among the best teppanyaki we have ever tried. Sazanka is a great afternoon treat I’d recommend to anyone more familiar with the flashy western style of teppanyaki.

Sazanka
Hotel Okura Tokyo 11F.
2-10-4 Toranomon, Minato-ku, Tokyo
03-3505-6071

Our favorite hotels when we are traveling in Tokyo

Tokyo can be expensive. And so it depends on how you want to do it…5 star hotel experiences are definitely available. We like the Grand Hyatt Roppongi for a truly luxe hotel experience. But we also discovered you don’t have to spend a fortune on hotels (save it for 5 star dining!). And in less expensive category, we like the Granbell Shibuya. Here’s why:

The Grand Hyatt Roppongi
¥43,000 – 50,0000 / night ($430 – 500 USD) for a double / king room for 2 people

This high-end hotel is well-situated in the hopping Roppongi district of Tokyo famous for its international dining and nightlife and right next to the exclusive Roppongi Hills Mall, so you won’t be far from the action…. that is if you want to leave the hotel. It’s truly stunning.

The rooms themselves are plush, chic and extremely comfortable. They have thought of every detail in terms of where you would want to place a water glass or a book, switch on a light or plug in a computer…and while these things may seem trivial on the surface, they are super annoying when not properly done. And despite Tokyo’s space challenge, the room is rather ample…really perfect if you are on a long trip with lots of luggage.

Beyond the room, there is an amazing gym and spa…and even though you are in bustling Tokyo, you should really make a point to take some down time here. The fitness center features the absolute latest in high-tech equipment from Life Fitness and its spotlessly maintained. And the NAGOMI spa offers a really luxurious spa experience should you want to splash out on a decadent treatment.

We actually cannot comment on the restaurants as we took most of our meals outside, trying to get in as much of Tokyo as possible. I will say though that every time we walked by a restaurant in the hotel it was totally packed, so I am guessing they are up to the same standard of excellence as the rest of the hotel. And we did really enjoy our room service breakfast every morning.

Which leads me to my next point…service. The service was impeccable, world-class even. From the details considered in delivering our room service to the absolutely tireless assistance of the Concierge, who helped Paul get tickets to the Tokyo Giants, we were impressed. I stay in a lot of hotels (and Grand Hyatt’s in particular) in a lot of cities and the service in this particular Grand Hyatt pretty much outshone them all.

Insider tip: Right next to the hotel is a liquor store, Suzusake (Phone: 03 3408 5851). They have an amazing selection of international beers, wines (US / Austrailian / Italian / French / South American) , cigarettes and other…at notably reasonable prices. Vueve Cliquot for ¥5180 ($52 USD), a bottle of Hoegaarden for ¥375 ($4 USD), a Duvel bottle for ¥572 ($6 USD), etc…

The Granbell Shibuya
¥15,000 – 18,000 / night ($150 – 180 USD) for a double room with double bed for 2 people

The Granbell Shibuya is one of those small, mod boutique hotels that every major international city is now quite saturated with. Clean, sparse and modern design can also be cost efficient thus leading to better prices for the visitor. This is a trend that Accidental Epicurean adores…thoughtful aesthetics and attractive prices, what is not to like?

Two people recommended this to us before we booked….my friend Matthias who is often in Tokyo on business and a Japanese friend Emu who is from Tokyo. I have to admit (sorry Matthias) that it was the our Japanese friend with local knowledge who really pushed us over the edge to book it.

The Granbell Shibuya is also well situated just a couple of blocks away from the famous Shibuya intersection and the Hachiko exit featuring the well-known dog statue Hachiko that is now a symbol of loyalty in Japan. You will be surrounded by major department stores like Isetan and x, not far from a Don Quixote or Krispy Kreme, and just a short stroll to our favourite yakitori place. Point is…its pretty darn central to everything.

The rooms themselves are small in basic. But they have made some nice design choices, like partially clear walls for the bathroom and built-in closets that lend a feeling of spaciousness to an otherwise small space. And the clean colour schemes and graphics keep it looking tidy.

Internet and breakfast are included. Breakfast is pretty basic…no choices except Japanese or Western, and you just get what you are served. We skipped it most days and went to the local Doutor Coffee or Good Honest Grub.

The service is OK…probably a case of you get what you pay for. There is no Concierge but the Front Desk can help you with taxis and transfers. Their English is fairly limited so don’t expect detailed descriptions.

Overall though, I while it might come off as a little pale in comparison to the Grand Hyatt above, honestly it was a lovely little place to rest one’s head. A very good value in a very expensive city.

Insider Tip: a few interesting tidbits about this hotel neighborhood

1. Since it is right around the corner from the posh Cerulean Tower Hotel you can walk next door and treat yourself to a cocktail in the Bello Visto bar with a panoramic view of Tokyo
2. there are a surprising number of serious guitar stores in this neighborhood with the best prices Paul has seen outside of America… no joke
3. directly across the street there is a hair salon where they do really amazing blow outs at a good price, and the salon owner speaks English

So if the fear of expensive hotels was holding you back from visiting Tokyo, check out the Granbell Shibuya. And if you are looking for luxe (or are on expense account ) the Grand Hyatt Roppongi is a must do.

I personally cannot wait for our next trip to Tokyo.

Shibuya Granbell Hotel
15-17 Sakuragaoka-cho, Shibuya-ku
Tokyo, Japan
Telephone: +81 3 5457 2681

Grand Hyatt Roppongi
6-10-3 Roppongi, Minato-Ku,
Tokyo, Japan
Telephone: +81 3 4333 1234

Glorious cheese is the star in this Tokyo restaurant

As much as I absolutely adore Japanese food, we took a break from our much loved Yakitori and Katsudon to try an interesting concept in casual dining. A restaurant entirely based around creamy, fresh mozzarella flown in daily from the Paestum and the Agro Pontino areas of Italy (how extravagant!).

Secretly I will confess, we went because we were hoping they would have our beloved burrata… they didn’t. But we stayed because the rest of the menu looked so attractive. All cheeses are provided with a DOP certification (Protected Origin Denomination) to assure that they are made in the regions claimed and in the traditional Italian style of using milk from the water buffalo. And it turns out that mozzarella is not the only focus here – there were a great number of dishes using wonderful Italian cheeses and we struggled to choose between all the tempting options.

In the end we went with a Selection of Mozzarella platter (¥2900 / $31.50 USD / S$44 )…a kind of antipasto assortment featuring 2 kinds of Prosciutto, Mortadella, Artigianale Romano and 3 kinds of homemade mozzarella di bufala:

• Paestum – delicate
• Affumicata – smoked
• Pontina – strong

Sampling the cheeses this way in a mixed platter is such a wonderful idea…comparing and contrasting the delicate differences between the cheeses is half the fun of the dining experience.

Our antipasto platter was followed by Ravioli with Ricotta and Spinach in a sage and butter sauce (¥1600 / $17.40 USD / S$24 ) and a Risotto with Grana Padano (¥1300 / $14 USD / S$19.70). While I will say, the cheese platter was truly standout, the entrees were less so.

In fact I enjoyed the same dish, Ravioli with Butter and Sage, at Mrs Jones in Hong Kong so much more. Not that the entrees were suboptimal, just nothing special….good serviceable Italian. But destination dishes? Would I go back just for the pastas / risottos? Well….no. So perhaps you will learn from our experience and stick to the star of the show while at Obika – the fresh mozzarella.

In fact, my perfect visit to Obika would involve popping by for a mozzarella based antipasto platter and a couple of glasses of Barbera d’Alba to start the evening. Bellissimo!

Obika Mozzarella Bar
Multiple locations: Tokyo, Rome, Milan, NY.
HB1F, Roppongi Hills
Tokyo, Japan
Telephone: +81 (0) 35 786 6400

Dun
Dan
Dun!

This post should really start with the iconic “Kill Bill Theme” theme song from the movie and play throughout. If you’d like to load it up to play in the background get it here : )

We had just finished watching the Tokyo Giants win the game with a homer in the 9th. The hot dog and yakitori we ate in the 2nd inning weren’t holding us over. As we debated food options (surprisingly not a lot around the dome) our friend, who is no stranger to Tokyo, suggested we hit up Gonpachi. The name didn’t register with me at first. Then she said all that needs to be said about the place, “the kill bill restaurant”. Dun Dan Dun. The music immediately started up in my head as a grin spread across my lips. Sure I said coolly, masking the kid-like joy bubbling up inside me.

For some reason I thought the restaurant was located outside of town in the countryside. Not so. It’s right smack in Roppongi, one of the busiest and foreign friendly parts of Tokyo. The building is almost quaint outside… a nice garden, some seats with umbrellas, but nothing flashy hinting at the sprawling room inside.

Inside the restaurant is simply, but wonderfully decorated. There are lanterns hanging from the ceiling and simple lighting throughout the space. The attentive hostess and manager quickly found us a table (unfortunately hadn’t planned this meal ahead of time and booked an upstairs booth) near the kitchen and we sat down to peruse the menu.

I was shocked by the relatively low prices. One would assume, with the fame the movie has bestowed on the place, that prices would be high…it is Tokyo after all. We decided to split a 6 course tasting menu (3500 Yen), and some other items between the three of us. First out was the Natural Tofu House Salad

Next out on the tasting menu was a Fried Shrimp Dumpling & Deep Fried Potato

3rd out was Tempura 3 ways

4th to come to the table was 3 types of Yakitori

Then came Soba noodles, which I didn’t manage to get a picture of and finally the dessert course – Pumpkin and Coconut Ice Cream!

To supplement the tasting menu we also ordered a lovely Blue Fin Tuna Tartare (950 Yen)

Also a Soft Shell Crab Roll from the 3rd floor sushi bar (1350 Yen)

Lastly was the Tataki – Seared Beef with Honey & Truffle Vinaigrette Sauce (780 Yen)

So all in all the meal totaled in about 22 USD per person without drinks….very reasonable for the amount and quality of the food served. The food at Gonpachi isn’t considered fine dining by anyone’s standards…including their own. It’s intended intstead to be an elevated Izakaya experience (modern country-style if you will). And this is why Gonpachi is a success in my book. Sure you can get better Yakitori and Sushi and other more specialized locations… but if you’re a tourist looking for a nice meal in Roppongi, a seasoned traveler who needs to entertain some out of town guests, or just a rabid Tarantino fan Gonpachi is a great value. Also the large space, long tables and secluded rooms are perfect for entertaining large groups. I think everyone should visit at least once, at least for a quick bite and beer before heading into manic Roppongi.

Gonpachi
1-13-11 Nishi-Azabu, Minato-ku.
Tel: 03-5771-0170.
Nearest stn: Roppongi or Hiroo.
Open: 11:30am-6am daily
Menu: English/Japanese

I went to a Thai language school in Bangkok that didn’t use any English, forcing students to comprehend the language in situations rather than memorizing from rote. Our class consisted of Koreans, Japanese, Germans, and many other nationalities… most of whom had little or no English language abilities. For the first couple of weeks none of the students could communicate with each other during class. Then one day, out of nowhere, we were able to communicate to each other. I made the first joke in the classroom when the teacher asked us how we arrived at school that day. With a grin on my face I told the class that I had traveled via elephant to the school. A simple joke, but after weeks of being unable to communicate all the students shared a cathartic chuckle.

The next joke came surprisingly from the Japanese students during a lesson on words for food. They began teasing the Korean students about eating dog. We all laughed. The Korean student quipped back with, “Well, Japanese people eat raw horse.” The class was quiet. Did we hear that right? The word for horse is a tonal word that also shares identical pronunciation with “mother” and “dog” with the different meanings coming on tone. We played a bit of charades and realized, some with horror, that the Japanese did in fact eat raw horse. At first the idea bothered me, but then I thought more about it and reflected on my general trust in Japanese cuisine… a nation that was so particular about the nuances of food (and everything else for that matter) wouldn’t serve up something unworthy of digestion. I decided on that day that I would one day try horse sashimi.

Four years later I had the opportunity. It was our last night in Tokyo. I had seen horse on a few menus, but was a bit hesitant to order it up at a hole in the wall Izakaya or Yakitori restaurant. My Japanese friends assured me this was actually the best place to get it, however. Our friend Emu recommended a Sukiyaki restaurant in Roppongi that sold great food for those in the know and also horse sashimi.

Finding the restaurant proved difficult. There were no English language signs, the owner didn’t speak English, and no one on the street knew the name of the building we were told. So we paced back and forth, up and down Roppongi in search of a restaurant recommended by our Japanese friend Emu. Finally, just by dumb luck and persistence we found the shop, located in the Roppongi Building (we were told a different name).

We stepped off the elevator and walked inside. The owner greeted us in Japanese, and then looked a bit surprised when we weren’t able to speak back. Apparently this wasn’t a place many tourists stumble into. He gestured for the hostess to show us to a sparse booth at the front of the shop.

We were handed menus. Thankfully they had pictures as nothing was in English. Joanna ordered a pot of Sukiyaki and we debated with the owner, again via a combo of grunts and charades, over the portion size we’d need. Then I sounded out my best horse whinny and stated sashimi. The owner gave me a playful smile and asked for verification in very broken English, “horse sashimi?” I nodded in approval and we waited.

What came out didn’t meet my expectations. I had thought the price was a bit high for a piece of sashimi (2800 Yen) but thought that was maybe due to rareness of horse or something like that. Wrong. The high price was because I was getting a full BASKET of horse. The owner began again with the charades, pointing to the different parts of the body and back to the basket… identifying the various parts of the horse I’d be partaking in. I say I because Joanna is just coming around on regular sushi… there was no way she was sharing in horse sashimi with me.

As best as we can figure I was served: Neck, Torso, Stomach, either Kidney or Liver, and Heart. You read it right… raw heart. The owner poured some soy sauce into my bowl and gestured for me to take some meat with the provided side of diced ginger and onion. I felt a bit silly with all the Japanese eyes in the restaurant on me, the owner hovering over my shoulder, and Joanna’s look of shock / horror / and curiosity. I started safely, I thought, with the neck meat. It was tough and chewy and took a very long time to get down. The flavor was about like a piece of raw eel, octopus, or any other tough fish. Since it didn’t come back up the other diners and owner seemed to lose interest and go back to their normal conversations, eating, and tasks.

Next I tried the torso. Again pretty tough, but OK in taste. Then came the stomach. It was actually pretty good, the best way I can describe it is like cold, fatty bacon. I had saved the “offal” for last. I took a moment to remind myself of various episodes of cooking shows and Top Chef I had seen dedicated to offal and other odd parts. All these trusted people I’d read about or seen on T.V. had managed through and come out unscathed. So with my nerves steadied I went straight for the heart, giving it a thorough washing in soy sauce, covering it with copious amounts of ginger and garlic, and tossed it deep into my mouth to attempt to just swallow it without chewing – fearful if I chewed too long and thought too much it might not make it down.

To my surprise it was the best of the bunch… well heart and stomach. I actually had a harder time getting the neck down in the end. After having sampled all 5 cuts of horse I went after the rest of the basket with a greater sense of confidence. The basket was obviously not meant for a table of people to share and not as a meal for one, but I wasn’t going to be the American that sent perfectly edible food back… so I ate the whole thing.

After I finished the horse, Joanna’s Sukiyaki came out. The owner graciously put all the ingredients in and helped us in cooking and knowing when things were finished.

As we were about to tuck in the hostess came to our table with bowls of raw egg. We shot the owner a confused look and gestured as if to throw the egg in the pot. He took up a pair of chopsticks and showed us how to get some meat from the pot, dip it into the raw egg, and then eat it. My best guess is that the heat of the food coming out of the pot is so high, the eggs get a quick flash cooking on the spot. Apparently raw eggs are widely eaten in Japan with little or no cases of salmonella… go figure.

I have to admit that even after eating raw horse heart, I found my sensibilities slightly offended at the thought of raw egg. I mean I’ve eaten raw beef, fish, and others for years…. but never eggs that’s just unsafe . But the eggs gave a perfect cool contrast to the beautiful Sukiyaki broth. I would love to go back to Japan in the winter and enjoy this dish again as it warmed me down deep inside like a hearty soup.

We paid the tab and enthusiastically thanked the owner for his assistance and the great food. Our last meal in Tokyo was a bit of an ordeal to find, challenged us more than any food has in quite some time, but left us not only with a great story to tell but also a wonderfully full stomach.

To find Hidari Uma go to the major Roppongi intersection and walk on the same side of the street as the TGI Fridays. Look for the Roppongi Building before you get to the TGI Fridays. Look for the following signs:

Take the elevator to the 5th floor and you should see the following signs immediately off the elevator.

If you find yourself in Roppongi, please look for this place or others and avoid the Hard Rock and TGI Fridays. Not saying anything bad about the restaurants (can imagine them being great for expats living in Japan needing a sense of home) but it’s worth the effort to eat local and not mega-chain