Like HCMC today, the Bangkok foreigner scene of old thrived close to the river. These days, however, I never really think to set foot down there. It’s the kind of place you visit once, the first time you come to the city… King’s Palace, check. Emerald & Reclining Buddha, check. Either the Oriental or Shangrila for tea or brunch, check. Then for most who live in the city (unless they work nearby) the river is a distant memory. This has more to do with the difficulty and time it takes to get down to the river than what’s on offer. But, if you wait till Sunday brunch time, with no traffic… the other side of the river is accessible in about 20 minutes tops and you don’t even have to wait for a ferry. This is the perfect time to venture out to Trader Vic’s massive brunch/lunch buffet spread.

Trader Vic’s is… well Trader Vics. Check out their pages if you don’t already know. Sure they’re a chain, but so are Four Seasons and Orientals. And they can be a bit dated in decoration style… unless you still rock a photographer’s vest, the sandal and sock look, cargo khaki shorts, or all of the above. But ignoring all that, this place has some great food.

I was seriously floored by the selection and availability of foods here. I walked in and saw immediately to my left a sushi bar complete with fresh sashimi and rolls. The quality of the fish was high for a buffet and featured real tuna… deep red and not neon pink like most of the cheap sushi buffets. Nearby there was also an oyster and caviar bar with freshly shucked oysters and a wide sampling of exotic caviar.

Then to my immediate right I saw not one, but two beautifully cured pig legs. I loved the Italian sausage and meat section and ate more than my fair share of prosciutto, mortadella, and others.

Next… well it’s Southeast Asia and we have seafood in abundance. Trader Vic’s has it fresh and ready to hit the grill. Fresh crabs, prawns, lobsters, and fillets of fish are available for grilling… mmm.

Speaking of grilling, Trader Vic’s pulls a trained Benihana chef over for the lunch feast. Here you can have a steak (or other meat, but really with steak are you gonna have chicken?) expertly cooked and cut in front of you. Sadly they don’t toss prawns in your mouth while waiting in line, but it’s a free bonus that’s very welcome.

Then there’s some beautiful meats sliced freshly at the carving table. Yup, that was a bone in ribeye in the background there with fresh sauces.

A first for me at a foreigner friendly Sunday eating extravaganza – roast duck. I’m not Peking Duck expert, but the birds on offer here were nearly as crispy and succulent as the lauded Made in China… and best of all it was part of a buffet so I was free to come and go as I pleased (and I pleased a lot )

Then there was the cheese spread. I loved the layout, thoughtfully done on a tree log. It featured cheeses of many regions and styles. The accompanying real honey comb honey was a nice touch to the section.

Another notable station was the Som Tam station – fresh ingredients pounded to order.

Last but certainly not least was the pastry spread. There’s a well skilled and happy to produce patissier somewhere in the kitchen here. Pastries ranged from delicate small bites to  French classic cakes. Also there was a range of seemingly home made ice cream on offer (not pictured).

Trader Vics really surprised me. I’ve visited some epic buffet spreads and this one sits near the top of the list. Not only is there a ton on offer, the price is super reasonable as you can opt in or out of the booze. I can’t believe the amount and quality of food I was able to enjoy for under 50 USD (around 1700 THB). I’d recommend it highly to anyone… whether first time Bangkok traveler looking to explore the river area or jaded expat needing a break from the Four Seasons or Sukhothai brunches.

Trader Vic’s
Bangkok Marriott Resort & Spa
257 Charoennakorn Road
Thornburi, Bangkok 10600
THAILAND
Tel: 66 (0) 2476 0022
Fax: 66 (0) 2476 1120

Consistent high quality at this laid-back, Aussie-style Bangkok institution keeps everyone coming back

When I lived in Bangkok, I lived on Sukhumvit Soi 16. I moved into a new construction apartment building and so had to wait for the finishing touches to be completed. During my time in temporary housing, when I would tell people that I was moving to soi 16, unanimously the response was….”oh, you are so lucky to be living near Kuppa!” When I asked them why?…there was a mish mash of accolades like “the best brunch,” “they roast their own coffee you know,” “it’s great for a lazy lunch,” “oh my god, you have to try the desserts!,” “the Thai food is really good,” “it’s among the best Western food in Bangkok,” “we really enjoy dinner there” and so on and so on. I mean what does this place not do and serve perfectly? Could this be true?

Well, in a word…yes. In my time in Bangkok, Kuppa became my go to place for just about everything. Meeting a friend for coffee, Kuppa. Family in town, Kuppa for dinner. Lazy Saturday, Kuppa for brunch with a newspaper. Meeting the girls for lunch, Kuppa. Stop by and pick up dessert to take home, Kuppa. Buying coffee beans, Kuppa. In my time there, I think I have eaten nearly everything on the menu multiple times.

On a recent visit to Bangkok, Paul, Richy and I made our way to Kuppa for a chill meal to catch up and relax. We ordered a lot of our favourites and some new things. As usual, nothing disappointed.

We like to start with Som Tum Thai, Thai green papaya salad (115THB / $3.45 USD / S$4.80). Sure you can get it for less on the street, but it is excellent here and it is our favourite pairing to go with the Moo Yang, Thai grilled pork with sticky rice (215THB / $6.45 USD / S$9).

My favorite salad hands down…not just in Bangkok….but truly my all time favorite (my favorite so far is the butter lettuce salad at Craft in NYC – Paul) is Kuppa’s Baby Spinach, Avocado, Mushroom and Bacon Salad (295THB / $8.80 USD / S$12.30). It’s probably not the healthiest salad on the menu, but it’s perfectly fresh and absolutely flawless…ripe avocados, crispy bacon and sautéed mushrooms on a bed of spinach.  The juices from the sautéed bacon and mushrooms permeate the spinach making every bite deeply satisfying.

Sometimes, I like to order the grilled fish or the thin crust pizza as an entrée. But this time I chose the Grilled Australian Short Rib served with Grilled Asparagus, Mushrooms and Potato Wedges (850THB / $25.45 USD / S$35.46). I am a sucker for short ribs and these did not disappoint – fantastic tender yet firm texture and full of smoky, grilled goodness.

Paul ordered his usual, Fettucini with Avocado, Prawn, Pine Nuts and Cream Sauce (395THB / $11.84 USD / S$16.50). This used to be a special menu item, but it’s actually no longer on the menu… the folks here are so nice though that they make it for Paul, without hesitation, every time he requests it.

Richy went with the Lamb Cutlets on Basil Polenta with Ratatouille and Mint Yogurt (795THB / $23.83 USD / S$33.18). Richy said it was perfectly cooked and was impressed with the Basil Polenta and the interplay of herbs and creaminess throughout the dish… also represented in the Mint Yogurt. I love eating with Richy. This is a guy who absolutely savours his food like no other person I have EVER met. He is an incredible cook, meticulous and detailed in his preparations… and a fantastic eater. We often wonder where he puts it all since he manages to stay in such great shape in spite of an insatiable appetite. So when Richy is happy with a dish, we know it is good.

Dinner at Kuppa would not be complete without dessert. One of the best desserts I have ever enjoyed is Kuppa’s Concord Cake (150THB / $4.50 USD / S$6.26). Paul and I actually used to crave this dessert and take a walk down to Kuppa to bring a piece home for a late night treat. This is a destination dessert folks. Don’t miss its rich chocolately, fudgy goodness. I don’t know what the crispy curls on top are, but they are a textural highlight that counterbalances the soft and chewy cake.

We also like the Apple Pie and Crumbles here. Another regular thing we enjoyed was the Macadamia Nut Brownie. Also try the Bread Pudding….if you are going to share desserts this is an excellent partner with the Concord Cake as the bread pudding’s creaminess serves to offset the fudginess of the cake.

In recalling all my lovely meals there, I realize just how much I miss having Kuppa as my neighbor. Familiar, friendly, comfortable and downright delicious. And this is why I make a point to return on every trip to Bangkok.

KuppA
39 Sukhumvit Soi 16
Bangkok, Thailand
Telephone: +66 2663 0495

Here’s another recipe from the Blue Elephant Cooking School. This is not a dish I was intimately familiar with by name. However, the flavors are instantly recognizable. This dish would be perfect accompanied by an ice-cold beer while sitting out on the beach at sunset . The dish is very simple to prepare and, while featuring a complex flavor profile, easy for those newer to Thai food to appreciate. You’d have no trouble serving this to anyone ranging from kids to picky adults.

The ingredients to this one are more straightforward than some of the other Blue Elephant recipes… not that those recipes are difficult, just that the ingredients can be a bit harder to source fresh outside of Thailand. I would say any large grocery store should have canned longan and if not most large cities have an Asian foods market. Since it’s a canned fruit you can prepare this dish year round.

Koong Saam Rod (Spicy, Sweet & Sour Stir Fried Prawns)
Ingredients (portion for 1 serving)
5 Pieces Prawns
40 G Canned Longan (5-6 pieces)
30 G Pineapple (cut into small pieces or diced pieces)
20 G Bell Pepper (cut into squares)
30 G Sweet Onion (bite size pieces)
5 G Ginger (julian)
1 Stem Spring Onion (cut 1cm long)
1 Stem Coriander (small pieces)

Ingredients for Paste Making
8 G Big Clove of Garlic
6 G Coriander Root (1 Stem)
1/4 TSP White Pepper

Ingredients for Cooking and Seasoning
1 1/2 TBS Vegetable Oil
1 TBS Fish Sauce
1 TBS Sugar
1 TBS Chilli Sauce
1 1/2 TBS Ketchup
1 TBS Tamarind Juice
1/2 TBS Rice (white) Vinegar
4 TBS Chicken Stock

In a mortar, pound the ingredients for paste making together. Heat up the wok and add Oil. Add the paste from the mortar. Add prawns, stir fry until the prawns are a bit cooked. Add the sweet onion, ginger, pineapple, & bell pepper. Add chicken stock and continue to stir fry. After a moment season with fish sauce, sugar, chilli sauce, ketchup, tamarind juice, & rice vinegar to taste. Add canned longan. Just before turning off the heat add spring onion and chopped coriander.

Recipe courtesy of Blue Elephant Cooking School in Bangkok. Read about my experiences of a morning program class here.

Paul

I realized once I moved to Singapore that I had squandered a great opportunity to learn Thai cooking while living in Thailand. With the prospect of many years living there I lacked the urgency one has on a shorter trip to get out and sample the various experiences Thailand has to offer. On my latest trip to Bangkok, I remedied the situation by attending a Thai cooking class at the Blue Elephant Cooking School in the Sathorn area of Bangkok.

The BECS was something I’d always heard about. The restaurant is famous for Royal Thai Cuisine (think anti-fusion Thai cooking, completely traditional and layered). The cooking school here is widely considered to be THE place to study traditional Thai cuisine… sure the experience is a bit canned and not as rustic as diving into the back of a street stall location and learning to cook the floor of someone’s home. But for most this experience will do.

I arrived early in the morning, maybe too early for me personally at 8:15am. Thankfully the school is easily accessed by BTS (Skytrain station Surasak) so you can avoid the morning commuters and terrible Bangkok traffic. I took the opportunity to check out our the space. The restaurant itself is amazing, with a classic, subtle look that’s not overly garish or dated as some “Royal Thai” restaurants tend to be.

Equally impressive is the environment in which the cooking classes take place.

We had brief introductions and then re-boarded the BTS to head one station down to the Bang Rak fresh foods market. The market was familiar to me, but is a great bonus for those who haven’t lived in Thailand before or those not intimately familiar with Thai ingredients, spices, and produce.

The instructors walked us around the market, first showing us the various Thai and Southeast Asian Fruits.

Then we dove deeper into the back alley market in search of the fresh fish and shrimp we’d need for our dishes. It was amazingly dirty and dingy, but more impressive was the lack of smells…this fish was fresher than the seafood section at the more sanitized Carrefour.

Next up was Thai herbs and spices. The showed us the difference between Galangal and Ginger and explained when you’d use both in different cuisines (not interchangeable for Royal Thai cooking).

It was amazing what all you could get in the market if you knew where to look. There was a station with a man and a giant mortar and pestle grinding up fresh curries, people making fresh noodles, and even a place with fresh coconut shavings (no canned coconut milk for our curry ).

Before we left we were treated to a traditional Thai Iced Coffee in a bag. With the extra punch of caffeine we were ready to head back to the school and get to the business of making dishes.

First up was Keang Ka-Ree Kai (yellow curry). To be honest I was overly familiar with green and red varieties before coming to Thailand. You’d think Penang curry would be a national dish with the frequency it’s served Stateside, but I honestly haven’t seen a Thai person ever order the dish when dining out. I hadn’t sampled the yellow curry so much and I have no idea why. The flavors were familiar with a subtlety Penang is missing.

This wasn’t a simple premade curry paste, add water and stir operation. We had to man the mortar and pestle and grind away. After a brief demonstration from the master chef we went to the kitchens to prepare our own (this is how the classes operate – view a dish being prepared, sample it, then make your own). Be prepared before attending this class for lots of grinding action

Next up came the Plaa Phaow Bai Tong (Grilled or Baked Fish in Banana Leaf). We used fresh cuts of Sea Bass for this dish. Again we were back to work with the mortar, grinding up lemongrass, galangal, garlic and coriander root for a paste to coat the fish in. It wasn’t the prettiest dish to look at, but man was it full of flavor. With the extra chili dipping sauce this dish will make you the toast of any dinner party.

The third dish had us cooking with the Wok. We made Koong Saam Rod (Spicy, Sweet & Sour Stir-Fried Prawns). The description is woefully incomplete though as other ingredients joined the prawns such as longan berries, pineapple, bell peppers, and sweet onion. This dish was full of flavor but also one of the most accessible dishes taught. I think you could easily serve this to a less adventurous friend to introduce a basic Thai dish without scaring them off with lots of heat and spice.

Last up is one of my favorite hot day lunch snacks – Yam Nua (Thai Beef salad). This dish is the easiest to prepare and cook, but you have to watch out for those tiny “bird’s eye chilies” (you don’t want to know the Thai name for these guys). This is a refreshing dish perfect for warm afternoons in a tropical climate. (Picture actually from a dinner party here in Singapore and not from cooking school).

With my arm stronger from beating down 4 different pastes it was time to enjoy the fruits of our labor. All the dishes were familiar yet fresh and new. The ingredients taught here are a bit more labor and ingredient intensive than what you’ll find on most street corners around town, but reward the extra effort with an elevated, complex dish that’ll impress even the Bangkok locals.

After completing the last dish and sampling our plates we were presented with gift bags. We received a complimentary Blue Elephant apron, diploma, all the recipes made that day, and a goodie box of tea/curries/spices/etc. All in all a pretty good value for 2500 THB.

If you’re new to Thailand I’d highly suggest the morning course. This way you can get down to the market and see how to select and find the ingredients. If you’ve living in Asia for any amount of time the afternoon course might be more your speed as they drop the market and teach a bonus dessert dish. They teach a different four dishes every day of the week so look into a package deal if you think you’d like to learn more.

Blue Elephant Cooking School
Blue Elephant Building
233 South Sathorn Road, Kwaeng Yannawa, Khet Sathorn, Bangkok 10120, Thailand
Tel: +66 (2) 673 9353, +66 (2) 6739354, +66 (2) 6739356
Fax:  +66 (2) 673 9355
Skytrain: Surasak
E-mail: cooking.school@blueelephant.com

Bonus Pics

Two of our cooking instructors

My workstation. The ingredients might have been pre-prepared but all the mashing was done by hand.

An oft-recommend restaurant on the Bund…can it live up to the hype?

I had been meaning to get to Whampoa Club for a while. It has been recommended several times but somehow in my many trips to Shanghai I often ended up elsewhere. Having had the occasion to try it this time I was excited to see what it is about. Will the pan-Asian flair really be so inventive? Will open up new worlds for me in Chinese cuisine? With locations in Shanghai and Beijing – would Whampoa Club be my new favourite haunt when in China?

Whampoa Club presents Hong Kong chef Jereme Leung’s take on Hunan, Shanghai and Sichuan cuisines in the well-known address of 3 on the Bund, rubbing elbows with the likes of Jean Georges and Laris. Seems I always end up in this famous fine dining neighborhood of Shanghai, being a regular at the Westin on the Bund during my frequent business trips to the city. And so it was that we found ourselves at Whampoa Club looking forward to some inspired Chinese cuisine.

As is often the case on Asian menus, it seems the more descriptive text is in the local language and so the dishes themselves are described quite simply.  I really do miss the evocative descriptions on menus - for me it is a kind of culinary foreplay to the main event. In fact, I have often fancied being a menu copywriter – when done well, the way the words are strung together in menu descriptions can be a culinary poetry that sings to the diner.  Since this was not the case on this particular menu and given its seemingly endless number of pages (15+), we asked our server what they were famous for and what she would recommend.

And so we found ourselves with an assortment of dishes including Crispy Beef Strips with sun-dried pickles and orange peel (68 RMB / $ 9.96 USD / $S 14.54); the chef’s signature Deep Fried King Prawn coated with a Wasabi Dressing and Crispy Prawn Flakes (188 RMB / $ 27.55 USD / $S 40.21); Sauteed Chicken with Fresh Mango and assorted peppers (88 RMB / $ 12.90 USD / $S 18.82); and finally an order of Pork Buns (68 RMB / $ 9.96 USD / $S 14.54).

The King Prawn was the standout dish of the evening– cooked perfectly in a lightly crispy coating and drizzled with a judicious amount of sauce lightly seasoned with wasabi. Being not a huge fan of wasabi, I was pleased that it was not a overwhelming aspect of the dish and allowed the other tastes to hold their own. The shrimp actually reminded me of a favorite dish from a Cantonese restaurant called Chiam in New York City – I haven’t eaten at Chiam in probably 5-7 years, but when I lived in that area of Manhattan, there was a dish called Grand Marnier Prawns that I used to crave fortnightly.

The Pork Bun was a cross between a bun and a potsticker – crispy on the bottom and fluffy on the top. While it was hard to criticize per se, I am not sure this Pork Bun was any better than your typical street food dim sum buns, which are quite good anyway and at a fraction of the price. The Chicken and Mango dish was simple, but enjoyable, with the perfectly ripe mango contributing the expected freshness to the saucy chicken. Sadly, the beef was rather forgettable…a little dry and excessively tough and chewy.

While individual dishes like the King Prawn did stand out, I kept asking myself what is holding me back from a wholehearted recommendation of Whampoa Club?  And on the final analysis I have to say there are simply far more spectacular fine dining options simply an elevator ride away on at 3 on the Bund or even across the street at 5 on the Bund in Shanghai. Yes, Whampoa Club features a Bund view (“bund” meaning the embanked riverfront for which Shanghai is famous), but the overall ambiance of the place was an odd combination of grand Chinese decor and modern Mondrian inspired color panels. A combination that frankly should be reconsidered and somehow even though it features timeless design references, manages to give an overall feeling of the place being a bit tired and dated. The too bright lighting inside didn’t help matters much either. And to be honest all this combined did effect my enjoyment of the food. Don’t get me wrong, I eat noodles on the street with motorcycles whizzing by and am perfectly happy…but when one goes to the oh-so-luxe Bund, one expects a more refined aesthetic.

The jarring décor combined with good, but not excellent cuisine, makes me think that next time I will choose a slightly more exalted dining option on the Bund…maybe M on the Bund again, or Jean Georges. Since the aforementioned options are all rather international in nature, if I am really craving Chinese food, I’d probably head back to my old friend South Beauty instead, a Shanghai classic fine dining restaurant where one can be sure to get tasty, reliable and elegant Chinese cuisine in a lovely setting.

Whampoa Club
3 on the Bund, 5th Floor
Zhong Shan Dong Yi Road
Shanghai, China
Telephone: +86 21 6321 3737

Pictures from Whompao Club via Just the Planet

A sumptuous art-deco Northern Chinese restaurant with panoramic city views

I get annoyed with those restaurants with stunning city views and mediocre food. We all know places like this in every major city…the kind of place you always take out of town guests to, scoff at the exorbitant bill in relation to the quality and remember why you never go there otherwise. Hutong is decidedly NOT this sort of place – it is the inventive Northern Chinese food that keeps me coming back again and again.

I had the pleasure to take Paul here for the first time on our last trip to Hong Kong. I was so excited and really overwhelmed by all the wonderful choices on the menu that I wanted him to try. Every time I go I struggle with the dilemma of trying new dishes or returning to old favourites. And both of us realized our eyes were bigger than our stomachs after short listing 8 dishes! In the end we went with some signature dishes including:

Mala Chilli Prawns, fried with Sichuan dried peppers and Chinese celery ($218 HKD):

Braised Beef Rib wrapped in Lotus Leaf ($398HKD):

and Green Asparagus coated with White Sesame ($118):

The Chili Prawns were super spicy and outstanding. I have also had the Chili Soft Shell Crab which is equally good and worth a try. Paul’s favorite was the Braised Beef Rib and I must say I was impressed not only by the robust flavor but also by the tableside presentation. In fact, everything was perfectly cooked and elegantly presented.

Since opening in 2006, Hutong is the winner of many awards from prestigious international publications and has made it onto Travel & Leisure’s Best New Restaurants, Food & Wine Go List, 4 and a half stars from the New York Times Review, and Conde Nast Traveller’s Hot Tables List. It is the combination of the sexy yet understated glamour of 1920’s Shanghai (even the bathroom is worth a look), the stunning panoramic views of Victoria Harbor and the sophisticated Northern Chinese food with exquisite presentation that contributes to a truly special destination restaurant that attracts in-the-know visitors and savvy locals.

Why don’t you try our favorite Kowloon agenda? Take the Star Ferry to Kowloon at sunset, walk to glam and exotic Salon de Ning at the Peninsula Hotel for an aperitif and then head over to Hutong for a meal that both satisfy the eyes and the palate.

Hutong
www.aqua.com.hk
28/F, One Peking Road,
Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong
Telephone: + 852 3428 8342