A luxurious spa experience in Shanghai

It may seem that I do little else but spa when I am in Shanghai. This is not entirely true… but I tend to spend a great deal of time there for business, which can be stressful, so I like to make unwinding a regular part of my Shanghai routine. When I am in Shanghai I usually stay at the Westin on the Bund or the Ritz Carlton Portman, which lucky for me, both have access to great places for massage. When at the Ritz I pop over to Green Massage. And then when at the Westin, I take the elevator up to the 3rd floor to the on-site Banyan Tree Spa.

The Banyan Tree Spa at the Westin is a study in opulent Chinese luxury. As soon as you step into the candlelit red and black lacquer environs, you feel well away from the hustle and bustle of the hotel and the city. I usually go for a massage of which there are many kinds – Balinese, Sport, Lomi Lomi, Swedish, Oriental and Hot Stone for 850RMB (S$170 / $125 USD). While these are certainly not the great value massages I have previously recommended at Green Massage or Dragonfly the experience is worth the splurge. The booking is for a leisurely 90 minutes, while the treatment itself is 60 minutes long. In the remaining 30 minutes you relax during a foot bath before and a relaxation period after before emerging into the real world. And the therapists are truly skilled at transporting the body into a state of relaxation. Usually I feel as if I need to be poured from the table in order to leave

Also, I can recommend the manicures and pedicures at the Banyan Tree. Both thorough and luxurious, these will leave you both relaxed and prettier. They also offer facials and hair treatments, but I cannot really comment on these as I have not experienced them myself. And as you know at Accidental Epicurean, we make it a habit to only write about things we have personally experienced.

So check out the Banyan Tree Spa at The Westin Bund Center Hotel and treat yourself to some the indulgence and relaxation one needs while in the fast past city of Shanghai.

The Westin Bund Center – Banyan Tree Spa
Bund Center, 88 Henan Central Road
Shanghai, China 200002
Phone: +86 21 6335 1888

My favourite places to go for massage when in Shanghai

Massage has been a part of my self care ritual for years now. And as much as I travel and sit on planes, it’s not infrequently that I am suffering from some sort of neck pain or other such traveler’s ailment. When I am in Shanghai, I prefer to go to Green Massage or Dragonfly Massage to work this out with a traditional Chinese acupressure massage.

Both Dragonfly Massage and Green Massage are actually chains. Normally I would summarily eschew a chain spa, but these guys manage to get it right. While each is a bit different, what they do have in common are Asian style facilities including waterfalls and soothing woodwinds music that immediately tells the body to relax upon entering the spa. Further, they offer a wide range of massage services from head massage to aromatherapy oil massage to acupressure massage to foot massage and more. And while it is normally a good idea to book advance, typically you can also walk in and secure an appointment whenever the mood strikes.

I always go with the traditional Chinese acupressure massage for $35USD. I like the deep kneading pressure that melts tension from my body. And after traveling around Asia for quite sometime, I can say that in my opinion this is the best massage Asia has to offer. Less intense than Thai and not involving any stretching, yet deeper than aromatherapy oil massage which in my opinion is entirely too soft (to each his own Elbows and thumbs are relied upon to work out the knots while strong hand pressure throughout will leave one feeling like a puddle of calmness by the end.

And while it is a great value, there are lots of luxury touches like silk pajamas and the professional service to the silk slippers and ultra comfy tables that make it feel every bit an indulgence.

I do have a slight preference for Green Massage over Dragonfly. I like the lacquer cabinets and the very Chinese ambiance…and I have from time to time felt the massage can be slightly better there. But again, massage and spa is a personal experience. Try them both!

Green Massage

Dragonfly Massage

A minimalist urban sanctuary on the Bund

I had read about the Evian Spa several times over the last couple of years, but somehow never found the time to visit. I often go to Shanghai for work, but it is all rushing around to meetings and work dinners…so while I have often had the opportunity to dine luxuriously, it was always harder to find time to relax. But one of my New Year’s resolutions this year is to create balance in my life. Yes, I work hard…a lot of us do…but I made a commitment to carve out time for self care in 2010 and so on my most recent trip to Shanghai I made a point to visit the Evian Spa in Shanghai.

I have frequented the address of Three on the Bund in the past, dining at Jean Georges, Nougatine, New Heights and Laris, but I had never gotten off at the 2^nd floor at the Evian Spa. Immediately upon exiting the elevator, I felt a sense of calm. An oasis of calming white minimalist design greeted me and interestingly, I noticed both the presence and absence of some things. For one the often heavy smell of lemongrass and lavender was missing…instead there was a very slight scent which was a cross between crisp linen and a spring waterfall – gentle and fresh but not overwhelming. And then present were flowing white curtains and strategically placed rocks which brought an element of nature into the otherwise urban setting. The overall effect was that of a minimalist urban sanctuary.

My therapist, Elaine, was already waiting. I had pre-booked a 1 hour massage, but I still had to choose which kind. When faced with the endless spa menu, I wished I had planned some extra time….because beyond the 1 hour massage, there were so many things I wanted to do. Not only does Evian Spa have lots of traditional spa treatments like massage, scrubs and manicures, but they also have a whole Clarins range of treatments for face and body. Beyond that they were also offering Endermologie Lipomassage…this impressed me simply because I work in skin care product development and Endermologie is the only proven treatment for cellulite (I could write a whole story on what works and what doesn’t in skin care, but that would get rather off topic in this context.) So when I saw that they were offering this rather than the typical overpromising “slimming treatments,” I was assured that the Evian Spa was serious minded about their treatments.

I opted for the Traditional Chinese Massage for 1 hour (680 RMB / S$141 / $100 USD). I have become addicted to Tui na as it is called in Traditional Chinese Medicine because of its ability to melt the knots that seem to plague me in my shoulders and neck. It’s firm, but not as firm as Thai massage (read: occasionally painful) and a bit more focused on releasing muscles versus the relaxing but not so deep Swedish massage popular in the West. OK – I realize I probably sound a bit like Goldilocks….not too hard, not too soft…but perfect pressure is a fine art.

My massage at Evian started with a foot bath strewn with rose petals and a brief oil massage for my calves and feet. My therapist Elaine noticed puffy ankles (most likely from flying overnight from Singapore) and inquired if I often had trouble with circulation. This attentiveness extended to the massage treatment where Elaine noticed my shoulders were tight and that my neck had a few knots. She expertly focused on these areas and also was generous enough to provide some stretching tips to help release these on a regular basis. Also, I think the heated massage table helped – as many spas as I have been to in my day, the heated table was a first! And an absolutely pleasant one. It may not be a polite comparison, but it was like the first time I used a heated toilet in Japan and I wondered why everyone wasn’t doing this. A heated table tremendously enhances the entire experience.

At the end of the massage, I really struggled to peel myself off the heated table. I was so blissful and so comfortable….a puddle of relaxation. And then I remembered, this was a New Year’s resolution! Wow, this beats giving up chocolate or quitting smoking, or whatever it is that most people vow on January 1.

When in Shanghai, I will make a point to visit the Evian Spa. While there are no doubt cheaper options, I think it is worth the splurge. And if you really want to go all out, go to the Evian Spa and then treat yourself to a glass of wine and truffle fontina pizza at Nougatine – it doesn’t get any better than this.

Evian Spa
2/F, 3 Zhongshan Dong Yi Lu,
Huangpu near Guangdong Lu
Shanghai 200002 China
Telephone: +86 (21) 6321 6622

An endless array of holistic therapies at this tranquil island spa

I generally have a rule of not visiting the same place twice. I prefer to expand my horizons and challenge myself to see and do new things. However, I recently returned to Kamalaya in Koh Samui. Our more dedicated readers may remember I went to Kamalaya last year to do a detox program. Well, this year when the time came to take a break after a seriously demanding year, I could think of no better place to do it than Kamalaya Koh Samui. In fact, Kamalaya wellness retreat is of such a high standard of excellence that I can foresee returning again and again.

My overall goal on this trip was to reconnect with myself, and bring back some tools to my daily life that would encourage balance and long term wellness. So this time, rather than detox, I chose to do a program called Asian Bliss – a program combining the Asian holistic therapies of Ayurveda, Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM), Reiki, Pranayama (yogic breathing), Naturopathy and various spa treatments including Thai Massage, Herbal Compress Massage, and traditional Asian hand and foot massage. I also added on private yoga instruction – I have a couple of tight, low mobility areas in my body and I wanted to address with specific areas with a yoga routine that I could do at home or in a hotel room.

Also this time, Paul came along with me. Paul chose the Relax & Renew program which was a combination of massages (1-2x / day featuring a variety including Oil Massage, Indian Head Massage, Hand and Foot Massages, Thai massage, etc) and he decided to add on an acupuncture session as well. Paul had just been in the US for a while and was hoping to get back into a healthy pattern and lose a few kilos. The steaks and beers and other heavy foods during his visit to Texas had taken their toll, and he was feeling a bit sluggish.

(If you are not sure which program would benefit you most before booking, naturopathic doctor meets with you upon arrival for a complimentary consult and can help advise and guide you.)

In our opinion, the therapies at Kamalaya are unparalleled. The therapists are of the highest caliber, trained on-site by management. And the specialists, like the TCM doctors and Ayuvedic practitioners are highly skilled. Further, Kamalaya enhances their staff from time to time with visiting practitioners who are best in class in their fields. For example, I saw Dr Song when I was there, a TCM doctor who had recently completed an 8-month sabbatical in China enhancing his TCM knowledge. I was astonished when just by reading my pulse, he was able to tell me about every health concern that I had (stiff and painful shoulder, insomnia, low energy, headaches, etc…). I spent 2 hours with Dr Song where he used acupuncture, moxibustion, and bonesetting (spinal manipulation similar to chiropractic). Even though our appointment was only one hour long, he told me that I was not going anywhere until we addressed my core physical issues. And I slept that night….for the first time in 3 months…soundly, without interruption and woke up with a feeling of refreshment that astonished me. (If you would like to try Tai Chi or Qi Gong, Dr. Song also teaches these at Kamalaya.)

Similarly, the Ayurvedic therapies are stunningly good. I think my hands down, favorite treatment at Kamalaya is the Indian Head Massage – on both visits, I enjoyed this, and myself and other guests all consistently rave about it. And now it is Paul’s favorite too…he was so blissed out that over lunch we sat quietly mesmerized by the sea and saying very little…just enjoying a deep sense of ultimate relaxation. Also, I tried Shirodara (a massage where warm oil drips onto the forehead continuously) and Royal Ayurvedic Massage. The Avuryedic treatments were consistently high calibre with an intuitive and experienced therapist who adeptly reads the body and adjusts the treatment to uniquely fit the individual.

Beyond the programs themselves, we enjoyed yoga and pilates classes, the steam cavern and the fantastic spa cuisine at Kamalaya. I don’t know how they manage to do it, but the food is absolutely and unequivocally delicious. They manage to keep it super healthy (with an emphasis on high quality proteins like fish and chicken, vegetables, nuts and seeds, and healthy, flavorful grains) while not losing any flavor.

The result is that every meal is thoroughly satisfying without feeling like one is sacrificing. And beyond the food itself, meals are served in a tranquil environment overlooking the hills of Kamalaya and the sea, so not only is the body nourished, the view itself provides a deep sense of serenity at mealtime.

For those of you who might want to splurge, there is that option as well with chocolate soufflés, wine and more available. Kamalaya is not about deprivation.

While all of this might sound like what one would expect for a spa of this caliber, there is something special about Kamalaya… a feeling that is ephemeral yet consistently present. Maybe it is because everyone that works on site is trained to level 1 in Reiki, or maybe it is because the spa itself is built around an old monks cave.

Its hard to put one’s finger on it, but this is clearly a magical place in which to take a step back from the demands of the world and take on a unique wellness journey and reconnect with oneself. It’s no wonder that they have recently been awarded Best Wellness Retreat by Spa Asia Crystal Awards and Best Destination Spa by Asia Spa Baccarat Awards.

After a week at Kamalaya, we felt renewed and rejuvenated…clear of mind and pure of body. Paul lost a few kilos (without actually being on a weight-loss program) and was decidedly chilled out. I was sleeping soundly and that nasty, persistent pain in my shoulder was gone. But not only that, we also brought back many tools to help us make the feeling long lasting. I have finally made the switch from coffee to green tea. We are cooking more at home, inspired by Kamalaya’s cuisine. I have embarked on a 6-day a week exercise program with a focus on yoga. I have vowed to make massage a weekly part of my routine and so far, I have managed to keep this vow. Sure it is only January (you might skeptically observe), but I am realizing more and more that health is a choice…something I learned at Kamalaya. And as Karina Stewart, one of the founders says, “we can either take a proactive role with regard to our own conditions or take the consequences of living a life of lower quality.”

If you are considering a spa or wellness retreat we would, without hesitation, recommend Kamalaya Koh Samui. Whether you want to Detox, try the Ideal Weight Program or simply relax was Paul did with the Relax & Renew program, Kamalaya is treat for yourself not to be missed.

Kamalaya Koh Samui
102/9 Moo 3, Laem Set Road, Na-Muang
Koh Samui, Suratthani 84140 Thailand
Telephone: +66 (0) 77 429 800
Fax: +66 (0) 77 429 899

Is investing in regular massage really worth it?

For me, massage has been part of my anti-stress and wellness routine for several years now. Rather than an indulgence, I treat it as another tool to take care of myself. After having some shoulder and neck problems for the last 15 years and seeing Chiropractors, Osteopaths, Physical Therapists and even being told I should have back surgery by a very well-known orthopedic surgeon in New York, I stumbled upon massage as a solution.

It all happened on a business trip to the fairly rural Kauai, Hawaii – we were shooting a TV commercial on the cliffs of the garden island. After one long day of shooting, I woke up and could not turn my head or move my neck. This was not an uncommon occurrence for me….but what was uncommon is that my arsenal of medical specialists was back home in NYC. So I headed to the hotel spa in hopes they could somehow help – I honestly was not confident…I thought massage was more of an indulgent way to relax. But not only did they help…I was pain free for a whole week! This was unheard of for me in those days. I was shocked that something so simple was more effective than the elaborate and expensive medical treatments that I had been investing in. And today, with a combination of exercise and Myofascial Therapy massage, I am virtually pain free.

For sure in Asia, massage has always been a part of the culture and an essential element in remaining healthy. But for many years it was widely believed that the benefits of massage were more psychological than physical. However, today as a result of many medical studies quantifying the results, massage is increasingly recommended by physicians to treat minor aches and pains, depression, headaches, more serious injuries, sleep disorders, etc. The world renowned Mayo Clinic has proven that massage not only reduces the stress hormone cortisol, but also boosts the immune system.  CNN summarized it well in their piece, Massage: It is real medicine.

When I lived in Bangkok, I had a massage every week – my favorites being Palm Massage on Sukhumvit Soi 18 and Lavana on Sukhumvit Soi 12. This ritual cost me only 250 – 700 THB for an hour. ($7 – 20 USD / $10 – 30 SGD). So when I moved to Singapore, I must say I had sticker shock. At first, I was excited to see so many spa options on my street in Chinatown, until I saw the prices which were $130 SGD / hr ($87 USD) for massage.

So I decided to try Kenko Wellness and Reflexology Spa. I will say I was initially reluctant because my preferences are typically for non-franchise establishments….I wondered about the quality of services and I also prefer the idea of a singular, special place with its own distinct personality and environs. And to be fair while Kenko does not score overly high marks for ambiance, what it brings in spades is solid, expert aestheticians experienced in the art of reflexology and massage at surprisingly reasonable prices for Singapore.

On my first visit I tried a one-hour therapeutic massage $85 SGD ($57 USD) – the masseuse expertly kneaded with a perfect amount of pressure releasing those tell-tale knots in my upper back. On my second visit, I tried one-hour foot reflexology $60 SGD ($40USD). I was particularly impressed by my therapist strong hands…he managed to push it to the edge without being painful in some areas where I was blocked.

A note on prices…while value is not instantly apparent from the a la carte menu prices, do ask about the package prices. For example my $85 SGD ($57 USD) massage could have been $70 SGD ($47 USD) – if I bought a package of 10 sessions for $700SGD ($470 USD). And with any package, all manicures and pedicures are 50% off.

Is massage part of your personal care and wellness routine? If not, maybe it should be. Nothing is more restorative than taking an hour to take care of yourself – and if you  do have a real health concern, massage may also help provide the solution you have been seeking. There are 80 different types of massage therapy. If you wonder which one is right for you, then check out Web MD’s very thorough article on various types with helpful tips on selecting which is right for you.

Kenko Spa
13 locations in Singapore
2 in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
1 in Penang, Malaysia.
Visit www.kenko.com.sg for locations.

top image from Back to Health Chiropractic

I am typically a little suspect about high end spas in Thailand simply because you can go anywhere and get a quality massage for $8USD. However, being a spa junkie I am always open to try both high-end and low-end experiences, as you never know what you will discover. And sometimes, as Anantara Hua Hin has proven, it is completely worth paying more for.

After making the 200km drive from Bangkok, we quickly checked in and were whisked away to our room. Well appointed in a simple, yet elegant Thai style, the room featured a balcony nestled in lush palm trees and a large bathtub for two. Only there for a long weekend, I had booked a 3 day spa package of 4 treatments (10,000THB / $461SGD / $277USD).

Upon arriving at the tropical garden spa set among sprawling lotus-covered lagoons, I was greeted warmly and discreetly. A soft spoken and gentle aesthetician led me to Anantara Hua Hin’s distinctive spa suites. One of seven suites, my suite was set in its own individual garden courtyard, with a deep terrazzo bath (room for two if you have company!) and with an alfresco rain shower suspended in a bronze cage modelled after traditional Thai fish-traps.  The effect of the suite is sequestering oneself in an environment of pure luxury. And in this transporting environment a decadent experience begins.

My first day of the package included 2 treatments. A wonderfully thorough 60 minute Sea Salt Body Scrub followed by a 90 minute Aromatherapy Massage. I had started my treatment at 5pm so by the time the body scrub was over, I was escorted to the alfresco rain shower where I showered listening to chirping birds and seeing the brilliant pink-orange sky at sunset. Feeling fresh with my newly scrubbed, baby soft skin, I was then massaged with stimulating ginger oil. When I finally left the spa in a dream-like state, it was even more beautiful under the cover of night, lit by flaming oil lamps around the edge of the lagoon.

Days two and three of the package included a 60 minute deep tissue massage and a 60 minute Thai massage. Each treatment was equally pampering. In addition to the quality of the treatments, what really made a difference was the attention to detail – from being brought lavender infused eye pillows during the massage, to taking Chinese herbal-scented tea and tiny bits of dried pineapple, mango and cantaloupe in the garden after my treatments.

In Hua Hin, you can choose from a variety of world class spa experiences – from Chiva Som to the Barai Spa at Hyatt Regency. But you will pay 5-20x more for treatments than at the Anantara, and I would not say the quality of the treatments or aestheticians would warrant doing so. The Spa at the Anantara Hua Hin is truly a high caliber experience that manages to be a good value at the same time. And it is probably for this reason that the readers of Conde Nast Traveller UK rated it as one of their favourite spas worldwide in 2007 and the hotel itself made the Conde Nast Travellers Gold List 2009.

While I actually was a hotel guest at the Anantara, if you are staying elsewhere, I would recommend visiting the spa for a day spa experience guaranteed to transport you to a state of complete relaxation.

In fact, why don’t you try my perfect spa day at the Anatara Hua Hin

•    Morning: Jog on the beach followed by lazy buffet breakfast
•    Afternoon: Read a book by the beach and taking lunch of spicy Chicken with Basil and Garlic with a Singha beer
•    Evening: 1-2 hours of pampering at the Anantara Hua Hin spa
•    Night: Head into town and have a local seafood dinner on one of the piers, my favorite option is Chow Lay, you can easily recognize it as it one of the only ones jam packed with locals (a Thai friend told me about it). Order fresh grilled fish, squid and pitchers of icy cold Singha beer

If you can think of a better day than lounging by the beach during the day, pampering yourself at a spa in the evening and then enjoying seafood dinners by the beach at night, I really would like to hear about it.

For Anatara hotels…
www.anatara.com

For Anantara spas…
http://spa.anantara.com/default.aspx