An old friend gives me the insider scoop on Prague gems over a recent visit

I was visiting an old friend of mine in Prague, Jason. Jason and his partner have been living in Prague now for 7 years and are clearly authorities on this charming and picturesque European city. Not only was I excited to visit Jason (we hadn’t seen each other in 10 years!), but also to have a chance to see the city from a more local point of view. And Jason has discerning taste and an uncompromising demand for both quality and frivolity – so I knew he would point me in the right direction for all manner of rich Prague experiences. In fact Jason is a blogger too, his blog is all about shopping. As you can imagine my tour of Prague was at the expert level – we make sure to cover some of the must do touristy places, but also managed to have some more local experiences while I got reacquainted with my old friend.

First things first, Prague is an amazing walking city. Pack your comfy shoes because if you are the sort of person that likes to explore a city on foot, there is no better place than Prague. The city is small-ish and manageable – you can easily walk from end to end in the course of a day. In fact we set out with Jason’s super cute dog, Louis, and spent the day trolling around. It turns out Prague is one of the most dog friendly cities I have ever been to. Everywhere we went they put out a doggie bowl of water for Louis (named after Louis Vuitton

You’ll want to take one of the charming trolleys for the fun of it, but it’s not totally necessary unless you are in a hurry. Oh and as the streets are cobblestones, ladies should avoid wearing anything with a heel as you will either spend the day wrenching your heel out from between stones or walking on your tiptoes to prevent it from getting stuck in the first place. In fact I had stupidly (in an effort to reduce my luggage and in a late night packing extravaganza) mistakenly shipped all my shoes from Paris back to Singapore. After about 20 minutes of walking around in my Sergio Rossi kitten heels, I hightailed it to a sporting goods store and bought a pair of Converse. So take a lesson from me and don’t forget your flat and comfy walking shoes.

Jason took us around and we explored quite a lot of places. These were the highlights and what I would recommend for a 3 day itinerary in Prague.

Sightseeing
Well there is no point in my covering the usual suspects of museums and classic sights that other guide books do. Yes you must see the Prague Castle, visit the Astronomical Clock in Old Town, tour the Museum of Communism, walk the Charles Bridge, visit the Jewish Quarter, etc. Have a look at your Frommer’s or Lonely Planet for these essentials.

Mucha Museum
However one tiny, but outstanding museum you might miss if you are not on the lookout for it is the Mucha Museum. Alphonse Mucha was an Art Nouveau painter and decorative artist. You may know him for his work on the Coca Cola ads in the early 1900’s or is Sarah Bernhardt pieces. This small gem of a museum takes you through his life and work – you can easily finish your visit within 1 hour. And by the way it also has a super cool gift shop with lots of tempting buys. I ended up leaving with a poster for Paul (who has an old graphic arts fetish) and some playing cards.

The Estates Theater
Jason made sure to point out this gem. So if you have time, attend the opera at The Estates Theatre. I myself am not a huge opera aficionado, but it will be something quite transformative to see it in such a historic venue. Opened in 1783, this is where Mozart frequently conducted his operas and in fact where Don Giovanni was premiered.

Kampa Island / Kampa Park Restaurant
Finally, if you time your walk of the Charles Bridge properly, you can walk over to Kampas Island at the end of the day. Explore the island a bit and then walk over to the Kampa Park restaurant just by the Charles Bridge where you can sit by the river and watch the boats go by as you enjoy a glass of wine and a have an appetizer or two (they are known for their fresh, high quality seafood) while the sun is setting.

Eating & Drinking
Well for starters, don’t miss Kampa Park, above. But beyond that, there are a variety of cool places to visit if you are a visitor to Prague. The list below is more about outstanding views or traditional Czech experiences versus the most exclusive restaurants in town. Although Kampa Park certainly fits in the top dining venues in town. So stay for dinner after your sunset cocktails if you are looking for a special occasion meal.

And if you are over by the Prague Castle, check out Cowboys rooftop bar and grill. It’s an excellent spot to have a drink and the burgers are quite good. Jason was telling us he brings all his guests to Cowboys because the view from the bar is simply outstanding – and it was!

Gut let’s get down to business…. in the Czech Republic, you simply must drink beer. The Czechs have a long history with beer. Starting with Budvar, the original Budweiser beer. This beer dates back to 1785, well before the launch of Anheuser Busch’s American version of Budweiser which launched in 1876. To be clear, Budvar has very little in common with the American version and is an amazing high quality Czech Pilsner. And the Czech Republic is also the home of Pilsner Urquell, the world famous pilsner of choice produced since 1842.

So you can stop in at any café in the middle of the day and enjoy a cold beer and some Czech sausages. In fact, not only can you, you should! There’s no better way to break up all the walking than with a frosty cold one. While you can do this anywhere, I will say there are 2 places that merit a special visit for drinking and eating. Once Jason knew I was interested in the Czech beer scene he made a point to take me to 2 very special places.

Riegrovy Sady
This is a park slightly outside of the center of town in the Vinohrady area. Located on a hill you can see the Prague Castle from its vantage point. Also, most notably the park houses ones of the largest and most popular beer gardens in Prague. Open from April to October, this beer garden is the place to come to watch football and other sports events on the big screen TVs. We watched the World Cup there and the crowd was rowdy but contained. Between the international crowd, the abundance of pilsner and a heated World Cup match, I was torn between people watching and keeping my eye on the game. Even Louis seemed to enjoy it with some well timed barks during excited parts of the match.

Kolkovna Group Restaurant
This restaurant is owned by the folks from Pilsner Urquell and as you may have guessed serves Pilsner Urquell and other local beers. Also it’s a really reliable place for good quality Czech food. We sat at a café table on the street and indulged in sausages, traditional Czech bread dumplings (“knedliky”) and goulash. Between a perfect summer weather, a full tummy, catching up with friends and drinking some amazing beer, it was an amazing afternoon. I would highly recommend it.

Shopping
Ok, so now here is where things get interesting. Jason always was and still is an expert shopper. So I was excited to hit the pavement and do some hard core retail exploration.

Flea Markets
We had a couple of requests for Jason…first and foremost we wanted to check out a flea market. We had heard tale of cool flea market scenes in Eastern Europe and beyond that were kind of jones-ing for antiquey, cool, old things as the flea market scene doesn’t exist in Asia (rarely are old / used things valued here). We hit the jackpot with Jason! He told us to an old school flea market, celled Kolbenova, outside of town where we found all manner of cool, idiosyncratic and just plain odd items. I was in heaven. I was tempted by all the old glass Christmas ornaments (but had to resign myself to the fact that these would not travel well) and the vintage jewelry. I ended up with a coin necklace and Jason emerged with mounted deer antlers (which look super cool in his guest bedroom) and a cool leather medicine ball.

Czech Crystal
Well if you know anything about the Czech republic, no doubt you will be familiar with Czech crystal. It can go from ornate to modern and I think my favourite examples were to be had in a store Jason took us to called Artel. Artel glass is world renowned as some of the highest quality Czech glass and has in fact received several design awards for its works. They had the coolest array of glass items from seriously chic highball glasses to bowls that would pass for works of art. This is a must if you are looking for glass or gifts to bring home.

Celetná 29 (entrance on Rybná)
Prague 1, Staré Mesto
Tel.: +420 224 815 085
Open daily: 10:00 – 20:00

Gifts, Objects d’Art & Cool Things
Lots and lots of stores…but a few of my favourites are…

Material
Lots of wonderful crystal, chandeliers, jewelry and homewares – not the ordinary assortment, but really cool, design-y type items with a chic and elegant flair.
Ungelt, Tyn 1, Stare Mesto
Telephone: + 42 775 568 667
Open daily: 10:30 – 20:00

Kubista
Kubista is part gallery / part shop and focuses on items inspired by the cubism design movement. Expect lots of modern yet retro looking items – everything from candleticks and lamps to dishes to jewelry to glassware to postcards and scarves.

Clothing & Shoes
When in Europe I always shop for clothing since it is hard to find my size in Asia. Definitely you should hit Parizska Street – it is the 5th Avenue of Prague with Prada, Louis Vuitton, Hermes, Dior, Gucci, Ferragamo and Hugo Boss mixed in with cool little, local boutiques.

Also, a few gems that Jason showed me were also quite impressive. For example a store simply called Outlet – here they had all manner of designer goods deeply discounted. From D&G to Versace to Prada to Tod’s to Armani to Etro to Ferragamo and more…,many items were up to 70% off. They have shoes (but not much past size 37), bags, clothes and accessories.
Masna 703/7, 110 00 Praha 1
Telephone: +42 222 314 827

And then there was Kali, another stand out store. Kali is a well edited boutique with both femme and glamorous garb from drapey tee’s to sequined party dressed (and lots of Diane Von Furstenberg).
Stupartska 9, Prague 1, 110 00
Telephone: +42 222 312 670

Skin Care, Organic Soaps and Wonderful Vinegars & Spices

Another must do (seriously you must go) is Dr Stuart Botanicus. This store has found millions of uses for plant essences and extracts. From face care and body wash and lovely soaps to infused oils and vinegars and seasoned salts to natural beeswax candles. Let’s just say I left with a large bag of Christmas presents.
Tyn 1, Praha 1
Telephone: +42 234-767-446

All in all Jason definitely showed us the best of Prague. And not only was it cool to visit a city I had never been to, but it was even better to reconnect with an old friend. Turns out Jason hadn’t changed one bit and we found ourselves laughing at the same old things and learning about each other’s new lives. I feel in love with the charming doggie Louis, offering to be his godmother should anything happen. And in general I fell in love with the city. Prague was a truly gorgeous city oozing with European character and elegance. And every experience from sitting on the river banks having a sundowner to learning about Czech glass was rich and satisfying, and will remain in my memory for a long while to come.

Hey all,
I know foodies in NYC would shudder at the thought of trusting a food guide. They like to feel they’ve discovered places on their own and not heard about them from a “trusted source”. In Asia, it’s a bit trickier to locate and find good restaurants… there’s language barriers, clueless taxi drivers, and other obstacles to getting out on the streets on your own. So in Asia the Miele Guide has emerged in the last couple years and is about as good as it gets for us food review wise. They’ve recently announced the top 20 restaurants in Asia for 2009/2010. We’ve already dined at some and we plan on hitting up others in the future. The list after the jump.

The Top 20 From First To last (we’ll update with our own links as we dine at the various restaurants).

1. L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon, Hong Kong, China.
2. Iggy’s, Singapore. (1)
3. Robuchon a Galera, Macau, China. (6)
4. Jaan par Andre, Singapore. (-)
5. Les Amis, Singapore. (3)
6. Mozaic, Bali, Indonesia. (5)
7. Gunther’s Modern French Cuisine, Singapore. (4)
8. Laris, Shanghai, China.
9. Ku De Ta, Bali, Indonesia.
10. Yung Kee, Hong Kong, China. (8)
11. Bukhara, New Delhi, India. (14)
12. Beijing Da Dong Roast Duck, Beijing, China
13. Zanotti II Ristorante Italiano, Bangkok, Thailand. (19)
14. M on the Bund, Shanghai, China. (17)
15. Nobu, Hong Kong, China. (16)
16. Caprice, Hong Kong, China. (11)
17. Antonio’s, Cavite, Philippines. (10)
18. Aubergine, Manila, Philippines.
19. Fook Lam Moon, Hong Kong, China. (18)
20. L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon, Tokyo, Japan. (13)

>> (Richard Vines is the chief food critic for Bloomberg News. Opinions expressed are his own.)

We’ve dined at a couple of these and haven’t yet put the articles up. I will say that I’m excited to try the 6 above Gunther’s as I enjoyed one of the best meals of my life there for my most recent birthday. The list is obviously tilted towards western cuisine and celebrity chef western cuisine at that… but I think they can be forgiven as a lot of these restaurants are truly deserving. Also, it’s hard to establish consistency in care-free Asia and the western guys do a better job establishing and upholding standards… so they’re easier to recommend to someone who might only have one night out in a city and wants to ensure a quality meal.

Anyone been to any on the list and want to share their experiences?

Get the Miele Guide at any bookstore in Asia or by going to the website.

Paul

The Great Wall. In my mind it stands as the ultimate irony tourist trap. What was started ages ago to keep foreigners out… is now responsible for bringing millions of foreigners into the country every year.

It’s one of those things you just have to see or do… like getting a hot dog / bagel in NYC. If you’ve visited China the first thing anyone will ask is if you visited the Great Wall (ignoring the fact that there’s a LOT of China you can visit that is nowhere near the Great Wall). So we did it.

Yup. It’s a big wall. That’s what I was left thinking after about 15 minutes, but let me back up a bit first.

I researched and researched about which section to go to. I knew I didn’t want to spend the entire day (I only had one full day) doing the Great Wall. So the larger excursions and trips along the wall were out. The debate came down to slightly closer and possibly more awe-inspiring / overcrowded or a tiny bit further out and not as visually impressive / less crowded. We chose the later – the Mutianyu Section.

It’s a quick 60KM ride out of Beijing and into the burbs rural outlands of Beijing. You arrive and must soldier uphill, braving a gauntlet of souvenir peddlers just to make it to the cable car.

Don’t be a hero here folks… there’s no one to impress. You’re a tourist and unless you fun run skyscraper hotels you’ll want to take the cable car to the top… which isn’t actually the true top, but it cuts enough of the stairs out that you’ll be able to appreciate the view once you make it up.

Once up there the view is amazing. There’s a rolling landscape of burnt out trees and subtle mountain ranges. It made me homesick for the lazy mountains of Santa Fe.

The wall itself is amazing to explore and observe. Each stone seems to hold a story.

Maybe I lack the true adventurer spirit, maybe I’m too cynical from all my travels, or maybe I’m just a horrible person… but honestly after a few short minutes I had seen the wall. Or at least as much as I cared to see. I mean you’re just kind of standing on concrete that goes on as far as you can see. It’s a marvel… but to me a sight that was infinitely cooler when populated with horse mounted soldiers and not mesh wearing euro-trash travelers. And when it’s not a loud backpacker ruining your serene moment it’s a pants-less Chinese baby going where he pleases

I hope I don’t seem too down on the wall. The Great Wall is an amazing thing to see and if you’re in China, certainly go see it. DO NOT take the tour buses if you can avoid it however. The groups get there late and all at the same time so things will move slowly. Instead hire a driver, the cost isn’t much, and you can come and go at your pace. I was glad we went this route as we were free to head back into town after about 30-45 minutes.

We left early to get there by 8, but as you can see from the pics by the time we were actually up on the mountain the sun was moving up overhead and not ideal for serious landscape photographers. Head out really, really early and you’ll be rewarded with an epic sunrise… possibly with fog!

The Mutianyu Section of the Great Wall
info@mutianyugreatwall.net

Highlights of what to see, do and eat in China’s capital city

We sometimes worry that a short trip is giving a majestic city like Beijing short shrift, but when all is said and done, wouldn’t you rather have visited a place briefly, than not all at?  That said, you can get a lot done in this big city, and beyond, in 48 hours. So don’t miss the opportunity to give Beijing a run for its money even if just for 2 days….here’s our highlights of what to see, do and where to eat in the capital city.

See Some of the Oldest Historical Sites in the World
You can run yourself ragged in this sprawling capital, but we have a few highlights to recommend as “must do’s”…

Tiananmen Square: if you are of a certain age, like myself, you will remember the student protests in Tiananmen Square in 1989 when tanks rolled into the square and “cleared” the area and an untold number of people were killed. Reports estimate 400-800, but the China government have never confirmed. But there is more to the square than this – it was built in 1417 during the Ming Dynasty and has been the site of several significant events in Chinese history, see the Wikipedia entry for more.

Forbidden Palace: You could spend a whole day here covering the 72 hectares of this Unesco World Heritage site, and maybe you should…..I personally didn’t have the patience for that level of detail, so I would say hit the high points and main buildings and move on to a nice lunch   I am not going to lie to you…this place tried our patience a bit….it was totally overrun with Chinese and foreigners visitors alike. Be prepared to be swift and nimble in order to dodge all the sun-shielding umbrellas of the local visitors…they all seemed to be the perfect height to hit / poke us at eye level. With that said, you should definitely see the key sites like the Palace of Earthly Tranquility, the residence of the emperor and empress; The Hall of Supreme Harmony, the ceremonial center of the palace complex; and the Screen of the 9 Dragons is a true stunner outside of the Palace of Tranquil Longevity, And if you really want to thoroughly dive into it, see about a tour guide…many of the signs are in limited English, so it’s difficult to really maximize the experience based on signage alone. Check out Wikipedia for more detail on the palace.

The Back Lakes, Shichahai Lakes: This is by far my favourite part of the Forbidden City complex…tranquil and soothing, this seems to be almost undiscovered compared to the frenzy inside the complex. You can stroll around the three lakes (Qianhai, Xihai and Houhai) or simply sit and relax in their gentle presence. We bought water from a local vendor and simply sat for a bit and watched the world go by….rickshaws and boys on bicycles, old ladies peddling wares and groups of girls in school uniforms giggling. You really start to get a feel for old Beijing in this picturesque and timeless part of the city.

The Great Wall, Mutianyu Section: one morning, get up very early and hire a car to take you to the Mutianyu section of the Great Wall. If you leave Beijing at 8am you can cover the 60km trip quickly and get there before the sun and all the tourists. Supposedly this is the less crowded section of the Great Wall…I will say though as we were leaving, it seemed to be filling up with great speed, so it seems early morning is indeed the ideal time to go. At this section of the wall you can take a cable car to the top and explore one of the best preserved parts of the Great Wall surrounded by lush woodlands and streams. It’s nearly indescribable…you simply have to see it for yourself.

For sure there is more to see in Beijing, but to do it in 48 hours, we would limit it to these 3 timeless sites.

Visit a Tea House and Shop for Local Ceramics
A trip to Beijing wouldn’t be complete without a visit to a Chinese tea house for a tea ceremony. And we know just the place….right outside the back gates of the Forbidden City lies the Terrace Tea House. Just walk past the lakes and onto Donghuamen Daije to reach the Terrace Tea House at #69. Take a seat and let the experts lead you through the timeless Chinese tea ceremony. The crowds and hustle and bustle of the city will wash away in no time.

Also, if you have the time and the interest, visit the Celadon Story, right next door at #49 Donghuamen Daije. Celadon Story has a wonderful selection of elegant celadon ceramic pieces for the home. The graceful lines and the soothing icy, jade green colour of celadon will likely tempt you in to taking a piece or two home.

Just for Laughs
Head down to the Donghuamen Street Night Market for a look at some unusual street food. This is the stuff of TV…things you have heard about but may have never actually seen. From innocuous hot teas that bubble and foam to stranger things like sheep’s penis and offal, since 1984 there have been over 100 vendors offering food here. While the grilled corn and spring rolls look familiar and appetizing, the squid flapping about on a stick and beef hearts less so. But it’s worth a look and makes for some fun photos…stroll through about 5 or 6 pm while it is still light out and you can get a good look at things before it gets too crowded. If you are feeling adventurous and prefer your food impaled, you can try the lizards on a stick.

Enjoy Rooftop Cocktails with Stunning Vistas
While there are lots of elegant places to imbibe in Beijing, we think one of the best has to be the Yin Bar at the Emperor Hotel. Widely reputed as the best rooftop bar in Beijing, you can see the emperor’s estate sprawled before you with the elegant sweep of the tiled Chinese rooftops as your vista. Go at sunset for the most impactful moment. And don’t avoid it if it is rainy on the day that you want to go…the fog and mist can lend quite an ethereal quality to the view even in inclimate weather.

Eat like an Emperor
Food is where this city shines. And I don’t mean lizards on a stick. I love Peking duck and there is no better place to get it than its city of origin. And beyond that, there are a bevy of Michelin-starred chefs (or those who have worked in Michelin-starred kitchens) in town.

Made in China: This is in the Grand Hyatt Hotel. I usually don’t gravitate to hotel restaurants when I am traveling…they tend to feel less adventurous. But we made an exception for Made in China and hope you will too. We were intrigued by the concept of bringing a street food market indoors…it works and what is really cool is that all the various chef’s stations are behind glass so you can see all the creations in progress. Peking duck is also excellent here.

Legation Quarter: This is the former US embassy, from 1903 – 1949 when the communists took over. Today it has been restored and now houses some of the beat restaurants in the city. The highlights include Daniel Boulud’s Maison Boulud and Ristorante Sadler. We really enjoyed our visit to the Ristorante Sadler, featuring a 2-Michelin starred chef. Don’t miss some of the most elegant food in Beijing….from wonderfully simple gnocchi to steamed sea bream and Tuscan-style steak….this is a restaurant who’s commitment to impeccable quality and service is apparent in everything they do. Go for the lunch set, it is an amazing deal at 200RMB ($30USD) for 3 courses of truly fine food, including wine.

Blu Lobster: for a most inventive tasting menu of fusion foods at the Shangri-la Hotel. While again, we don’t love hotel dining as a rule, we did love the fresh and inventive take the chef displayed with many of the dishes on the tasting menu. You will forget you are in a hotel and will get lost in the dreamy surroundings of the restaurant and the even dreamier dishes. Try the tomato salad, the crispy suckling pig and the parmesan-crusted sea bass.

You will find no shortage of fantastic things to do and see in Beijing, we hope our list of highlights can help guide the way to some fantastic experiences on your journey. But in spite of all the recos above, don’t forget to just take time to wander…some of the best adventures, scenic back alleys and interactions with locals can be had by just stumbling upon them. So don’t forget to make time for happenstance. Ni hao Beijing!

Highlights of what to see and do in the wonderfully traditional city of Kyoto

Many folks love Kyoto and consider it the highlight of any trip to Japan. With 17 Unesco World Heritage sites, 1600 Buddhist temples and over 400 Shinto shrines, Kyoto is rife with ancient culture and Japanese history. And beyond historical sites lies the Japan of movies and books….zen gardens, red lanterns, and geishas….Thus, it is no surprise that Kyoto is considered Japan’s cultural capital. That said, unless you really want to spend weeks touring temples, one can get a real flavor of this sprawling city in 2 days. Here are our recommendation for 48 hours in Kyoto.

Getting there
You can always fly to Osaka and then take a train, but we chose to take the Shinkansen from Tokyo. The Shinkansen is the famous high-speed bullet train and will get you to Kyoto in about 2 hours and 20 minutes. Just like everything else in Japan, somehow they have improved upon the existing train travel model….managing to make rail travel efficient, clean and even kind of fun at 300 km/hr (186 mph).

Sleep
To be honest we really wanted to stay in a ryokan, but even booking 6 weeks in advance seemed to be not enough time ahead as they were all fully occupied. Instead we stayed at the Westin Miyako Kyoto. While perhaps a tiny bit outdated, the rooms are comfortable, tastefully appointed and generously sized with lovely balconies overlooking Kyoto…one cannot underestimate what a real luxury it is to have space in Japan. We also enjoyed having access to a gym, but probably the hotel’s biggest asset is its location in Higashiyama….within walking distance to many of the most important sites. Further the hotel makes life easy for foreigners with English and other languages being spoken.

Eat & Drink
We took our breakfasts at the hotel – partly for ease and convenience and partly just because I have never gotten used to Asian breakfasts of predominately fish and greens.

Probably our favorite meal in Kyoto was at Hinode Udon. And don’t miss Grotto’s 9-course culinary tour of Japan tasting menu for dinner.

After a day of shopping downtown, stop off at Brasserie Café Onze, in an alley between Kawaramachi Street and the river (headed south). This is a super charming little French style café where you can have local or imported ales and French wines paired with rustic and hearty snacks like Serrano ham, pate, cheese plates, frites and more.

Also, if you are shopping downtown at the markets (see below), try lunch at one of the many restaurants inside the famous Nishiki food market.

On your temple tour, stop off at Café Whoje for a coffee and dainty slice of the ethereally light Japanese cheesecake.

Or if you are at the Ginkakuji temple, don’t miss the choux creams at Gen Mai. We love choux cream – these Japanese cream puffs are little bites of heaven.

There are any number of pubs scattered throughout Kyoto….Ing and The Gael Irish Pub (full of expats and locals) to name a couple that were recommended to us. But we liked the ones scattered around the downtown river area best, like the aforementioned Brasserie Café Onze. But keep in mind…unlike Tokyo, Kyoto is not really a party town. In fact some ryokans and smaller hotels have 10 or 11pm curfews (another good reason to stay at the Westin Miyako.)

Shopping
We spent hours trolling around the Nishiki Market…this is primarily a food and kitchen utensils market littered with lots of lovely little gift shops. Nishiki has been around for centuries and many of the vendors have been operating their stalls for generations. Called the “kitchen of Kyoto” there is a saying in Kyoto, “there is no kind of food that you can’t find at Nishiki.”

My favorite shop in the market for lovely gifts is a tiny shop called Pulau Deco. This little gem of a shop features artictics goods from local textile and ceramic artisans. Many of my Christmas presents this year are from Pulau Deco.

Lots of folks love to visit Aritsugu, a shop started 400 years ago by a famous swordmaker and world famous for its super sharp knives used by many a sushi chef. You can see the artisans shaping and polishing the knives right in the store. They also carry all kinds of pans and cooking implements….no doubt if you like to cook, you will be tempted to take something home.

Also don’t miss the adjoining Teramachi Street market for quirky tshirts, fashion clothing, shoes, sunglasses, Hello Kitty gear and such.

Also if you like department store shopping, Kyoto’s large assortment of stores are great for modern clothing, Japanese skin care brands, gift items, kitchen wares, and well…the usual department store assortments. Try Isetan in Kyoto station for a more trendy, fashion focus. Or try Daimaru on Shijo Dri for its sheer size and the expansiveness of offerings (from clothing to electronics to food) ….it is Kyoto’s largest department store. There is also Hankyu on the south-east corner of Shijo Kawaramachi….here you will find 7 floors of fashion, food and housewares. Our favourite is Takashimaya, which is one of Japan’s oldest and most respected retail stores – here you can find lots of wonderful gift items as they have a nice selection of traditional crafts including textiles and ceramics. We particularly like the housewares department and couldn’t resist leaving without a Global chef’s knife.

Note: Ladies if you wear a clothing size larger than an American size 6 or 8, don’t even bother clothing shopping…you simply won’t find your size. The same is also true if you wear a woman’s shoe size larger than 8M.

Sightseeing…
Well, this list could be endless given that there are over 3000 historical sites in Kyoto. There are truly helpful temple maps available in every hotel – they map out every major temple and the metro / bus system is easy to navigate. So rather than detail all your options, we thought we would highlight our top favorites from our trip, both Unesco World Heritage Sites.

Nijo –jo, known as the “Ninja House” was completed in 1603. It was originally built as a merchant’s home but later was used as an inn for feudal lords visiting Kyoto. Famous for hidden staircases and counter-espionage devices and trap doors for samurai’s to ambush intruders, it is a Kyoto must see. To read more check out the wikipedia listing.

Ginkaku-ji is also known as the Silver Pavillion and is one of the top sites by all regards in Kyoto. Built it 1842, it is a zen temple intended to be a tranquil retreat for Shogun Ashikaga Yoshimasa.  With a temple perced on a placid lake and mossy trails it is a truly calming place. Because of its popularity, this temple can get really packed with visitors….do like we did, and get up early to go as soon as the doors open. More than likely you will be rewarded with near solitary enjoyment of the temple. Read the wikipedia article to learn more about this special place.

There really are unlimited opportunities to explore Japanese culture in Kyoto. If you have even more time check out a cooking class, a flower arranging class or see kabuki performances or geisha dances (if visiting in spring or fall seasons).

Being a true city person, I must admit I prefer the energy and general wackiness of Tokyo, but some people say that Kyoto is the Paris of Asia…a true cultural capital. Perhaps it is so…to visit Kyoto is to be inspired by the traditions and folklore of Japanese culture.

From charming colonial hotels to lovely gift shops

Please don’t stay in Colombo if you go to Sri Lanka. Even 3 days is enough to explore historic Galle and the surrounding areas. Here’s our cheat sheet for how to spend 3 days in and around Galle.

On the way…

We flew in very late at night…due to the odd and inconvenient flight time offered by every airline to Sri Lanka…stayed at the Taj Airport Garden Hotel. This is truly an airport hotel of decidedly average caliber. But there is no point in splurging on this part of the trip – just crash and get up early the next day for your drive to Galle. Save yourself a lot of trouble and hire a car and driver for the journey – not only for the round trip transport, but also to take you around a bit while in Galle. It’s only a tiny bit more to pay the driver for extra time in town – since he will stay in town to wait for your return anyway (20000 LKR / S$250 / $175 USD).  You can arrange this at the Taj Airport Hotel through the travel desk. Be prepared – it’s only about 100km but it will take you about 4 hours given the condition of the roads (tuk tuks, errant cows and dogs, slow-moving trucks, etc.)

Stop off as Kosgoda Turtle Conservation Project. This is one of the many turtle conservation projects in the area, but we like this one because it is truly about animal rescue and preservation…whereas many of the others obtain their turtles through unsavory poaching practices. Visit the turtles and get a quick tour where you can learn about the different types, their habits and more (400 LKR / S$5 / $3.50 USD).  I got to hold one!

The Galle Fort…
The thing to see in Galle is the Galle Fort. The Fort is a Unesco World Heritage Sight and deservedly so…built in the 17^th century by the Portuguese and then later taken over by the Dutch it is a massive, hulking fortress of epic proportion given the time in which it was built. The fortress is so strong that when the 2004 tsunami struck, it emerged relatively unscathed. Spend an hour or so here…taking in the breathtaking water views, strolling around the ramparts and if you come on the weekend, seeing all the teenage couples paired off in dark corners, holding hands and stealing chaste kisses.

A bit of shopping in Galle…
In and around Galle Fort area, there are charming colonial streets with many a lovely store scattered about.

If you like jewelry the following are recommended. Please note though when I say jewelry in these parts, this means gemstones set in gold in traditional settings. And in some cases you can get knock off Bulgari but with real gold and stones. For me, this is not my taste (I prefer quirky things with a bit of character), but if it is yours, then try:

• MM Ibrahim, 47Church Street…in Galle since 1909, known for their Bulgari copies
• Laksana, 30 Hospital Street, wall-to-wall gemstones and jewelry, will custom make pieces as well
• Mangala, 43a Columbo Road…more gems and jewelry if you haven’t had enough
• Manika @ Fort Gallery…original, unique jewelry and gem designs

Laksana jewelry store

If you are into local handcrafts, textiles, objects, etc…then we have a few favourites to share with you. All of these have lovely selections of rustic jewelry, textiles like pillows and table linens, books on the area, cute / quirky gifts and more:

• Exotic Roots, 32 Church Street…painted bowls, wooden home décor objects and Sri Lankan handicrafts
• Elephant Walk, 30 Church Street…more of the same, but somehow I actually like this one better… we bought a rustic wooden serving platter that we thought would make a nice plate of cheeses and antipasto back home
• Kanhanda Kanda Collection, Pedlar Street, we really like this one too…the owner of the Kanhanda Kanda villa, George Cooper, is also an interior designer and here are some of his selections for you to take home… George has impeccable taste.
• Barefoot, 41 Pedlar Street…this was probably my favourite of the bunch. Lots of local hand-loomed textiles and great gift items. We left with probably a ¼ of our Christmas list complete!

Some spa?
It seems the consensus is that the Amangalla Hotel Spa and the Lighthouse Hotel & Spa are the best options around. But most places can and will arrange a massage therapist (or even a yoga instructor) to visit your hotel room. Why not indulge when on holiday?

For cocktails & dining …
Well one thing you should know is Sri Lanka is not a party place. No nightclubs, few bars and an early closing time of around 11pm make happy hour your best option for a few drinks. Besides, why not have a view of the beach and enjoy a local beer at sunset if you can. We recommend:

• Lighthouse Hotel: we enjoyed sipping a few local beers on the Grand Terrace while watching the ocean waves crash on the rocks below. Be sure to arrive around 5:30 or 6pm to catch the sunset. While we didn’t eat here, we do hear that the food is perhaps forgettable, so we would recommend heading to the Sun House for a lovely dinner afterward.
• Sun House: you can enjoy a cocktail from Dicks Bar in the courtyard or savor one of their lovely meals – we really like Sunday night curry dinner.
• Amangalla Hotel: Sit on the generous terrace and watch the watch the world go by. While you can certainly order something stronger, I found the Ginger Lime Fizz hit the spot for me after a hot day. Also try the Dining Room for dinner.
• Galle Fort Hotel: also recommended for drinks or dinner. We stopped by mid-afternoon for an iced-coffee. I love how the Sri Lankan iced-coffee is routinely topped with ice cream…one part pick-me-up and one part decadent treat.

The Lighthouse Hotel grand terrace

A local brew, Lion, enjoyed at the Lighthouse Hotel

Ice Coffee Topped with Ice Cream

Where to stay….
The list for dining and drinks above is a pretty complete list also for hotels. We really enjoyed our stay in the Sun House. Also recommended are:

• Kahanda Kanda: this is a truly lovely boutique hotel offering villas in a stunning location with panoramic views of the jungle, a neighboring lake and a tea plantation. Also well known for the excellent cuisine. George Cooper, the owner is also an excellent host. You will be welcomed like a personal friend and fully pampered by the attentive staff (pictured below).
• The Fortress: a luxury hotel / spa on the coast just a few minutes from Galle. Rather expensive…if perhaps too expensive to actually stay, it is always an option to stop by for lunch.

A serene spot at Kahanda Kanda

The grounds and saffron wall at Kanhanda Kanda

A sneak peek into a villa at Kahanda Kanda

Neighboring places worth exploring…
We really enjoyed a couple fo short jaunts we took out of downtown Galle anf thought you might too.

• Handunagoda Tea Estate: Sri Lanka is the world’s 3^rd largest producer of tea. And Hundunagoda is a 140 year-old, family-owned tea estate, purportedly supplying the back in the day supplying the emperor of China with the purest tea in the world – picked by virgins, harvested with golden scissors into golden bowls and completely untouched by human hands. Today you can tour the place (Herman is an excellent guide), see the plantation, tour the factory and learn about about teas from Sri Lanka, known in before 1972 as Ceylon.

• Mirissa Beach: about 40 minutes from Galle is a beach widely known as the most beautiful and unspoiled beach in Southern Sri Lanka. Sit on the beach, snorkel, have a beer…
• Wijaya Beach House: these days a bit crowded, Wijaya Beach is probably not the destination beach that Marissa is, but it’s a lovely stop to make on the way and have a bit of lunch. We like the curries at Wijaya Beach House…have a curry, sip and beer and sit back and watch the [many] people frolic in the surf and the locals fish by hand.
• Samakanda: sadly we ran out of time and did not make it here, but we really wish we had. Widely purported to be one of the most stunning places to visit in Southern Sri Lanka, an organic farm and tea plantation which has become a destination for many a visitor. Word has it they have a few rooms to accommodate overnight guests as well.

If you are feeling active…

There’s lots to do if you feel the need to stretch your legs a bit. We were a bit lazy on our trip, but the following are recommended if you are raring to go:

• Surfing: the best areas are Hikkaduwa, Ahangama and Midigama, the Kabalana Hotel is recommended as a staging point.
• Cycling: there is a guide that everyone swears by…Alex Barratt (077 7906 156). Alex organizes 2 rides a 35km ride touring through a tea planatation, rice paddies, including lunch at Samakanda ($50 USD). There is also a 15km version ($30 USD)

Certainly there’s no shortage of ways to entertain oneself in Galle – it really all depends on what you are looking for. It can be a totally chill, get-away-from-it-all kind of trip…or an active, I-don’t-want-to-waste-a-minute trip. But all in all I would say this – it is an island and like many island cultures, things do not happen with speed or haste. So plan (or let it all go) accordingly.

And left Japan kicking and screaming…

The first time I traveled to Hong Kong, I fell in love. I had an inexplicable affinity for the place, and on subsequent trips, discovered many new parts that ultimately led to Hong Kong’s classification as my favorite city in Asia. Now I think Tokyo has equally captivated me, if not possibly surpassing Hong Kong in my personal ranking…in fact when my travels came to an end, I honest to goodness did not want to leave! What is it that makes Tokyo so special?

Tokyo is weird and wonderful all at the same time. There are things as Westerners, we will probably never understand about this magical place. Japanese culture is built upon so many rigorous customs, and then there is micro-culture of Tokyo itself – crazy workaholics, hard core drinkers, the fetishizing of all things cute, an obsessive attention to detail, J-pop and cos play dressers, wacky themed restaurants and the most inventive fashion I have ever seen. It is both the things I can see and understand and those that I cannot whose enigma has so captivated me.

Every strange thing you have ever heard about Tokyo is most likely true. And then of course there are the secrets of Tokyo that one has to experience on one’s own. Here are a few of my own personal highlights and observations:

The city that TRULY never sleeps
NY ain’t got nothin’ on Tokyo…this is a 24 hour city. The area of Roppongi in particular has a Mardi Gras anything-goes feel, with gaijin (foreigners) and local revellers mixing and mingling and kicking it off until dawn. In fact because taxis are sooo expensive, many folks stay out all night purposely, because the metro shuts down at 12midnight. And really when there is so much to see and do in this crazy place, who has the willpower to make a timed exit at 11:30pm?  For those who don’t want to booze until dawn, there are countless coffee shops and bookstores open late, like the Kinokuniya in Shinjuku made famous by Haruki Murikami’s books, which by the way has the widest selection of English language books in Tokyo.  Or the world famous quirky, weird, wild and naughty Don Quixote store – where they sell everything from sex toys to shampoo and Hello Kitty paraphernalia to ice cream.

If you are still not ready for bed, have a sunrise sushi breakfast at Tsukiji fish market. My god, I am exhausted just thinking about all one can do in this place – and the energy is totally addictive. Remember, you can always sleep when you travel back to your home country. Now, how the locals do it day in and day out is another question…

Obsessively detail focused
I had heard about the Japanese view on quality. During my MBA studies, we studied the post-WWII quality movement inspired by W. Edwards Demming who revolutionized manufacturing processes, such that there was rolling impact on worldwide production in nearly every industry. But honestly I had no idea this extended to every (pause) single (pause) thing (pause) that the Japanese do – it is in fact inherent in the culture. The belief being that everything that is worth undertaking, is also worth elevating to perfection. Even buying a Global knife at Takashimaya was an example of this, with the item in question being so carefully handled and wrapped that is was like a present to myself when I unwrapped it later at home. Being a perfectionist myself, I was inspired – the level of execution was even beyond my slightly particular expectations. In a word…is heaven!

Wildly extreme fashion
I totally admire the Japanese fashion aesthetic and could sit in Shibuya and people watch for the rest of my life. Funky, cool, street style is the norm here – an average outfit pairs unlikely layered combinations and can consist of 3 t-shirts custom-cut at home to have clever openings to showcase the one underneath, topped off by a floral vest and then a denim mini skirt over black leggings with Converse All Stars and Hello Kitty socks ….topped off with a plaid hat. And somehow it works. And then there are the more niche looks – like the Gothic Lolita, Cosplay and J-Pop looks. If you really want to get an eyeful, go to the bridge at Yoyogi Park on Sundays to see the Cosplay boys and girls in their glory. I mean seriously, for someone like myself who trends more toward basic black and the sleek silhouettes of New York fashion, I found it absolutely fascinating. In fact, I flirted with the idea of mini skirts with leggings and Converse when I got back home, but:

1. it is very hot here in Singapore
2. I suspect I might be pushing the age appropriate boundary on that look
3. somehow outside of Tokyo, it just doesn’t seem to make sense.

Food as an art form
Part and parcel of the attention to detail above, Japanese food and eating is elevated to an art form. They say that to master the making of soba noodles takes a lifetime. And in well known sushi places, apprentices can spend 2 years just forming the rice….before they even get to touch the fish.  And this culinary perfection holds not only for Japanese food, but also for Western as well. I had a stunningly good apple pie in Kichijoji that makes my mouth water when I think about it – somehow they actually made it better! And my memories of the ethereally light and crispy Tonkatsu at Maisen bring tears to my eyes. The Yakitori….well,  I could eat Yakitori every day until I die and not only would this not be a sacrifice, it would be a terrific honor. No detail is spared in the preparation and execution of meals – and while sometimes this means mealtimes take a bit longer than one expects, it is totally worth the wait.

Heated toilets and other bathroom idiosyncrasies
And in the spirit of making everything better, comes the Japanese bathroom. This may be rather indelicate, but I never enjoyed the bathroom so much as I did in Japan. For starters, toilet seats are heated – probably doesn’t sound so spectacular….until you try it yourself. And the side of the ubiquitous Toto toilet comes equipped with a control panel, fortunately with instructions as icons, so one can decide which….umm…..area to wash and at which water pressure and temperature. Peculiar to Japanese culture, it is inappropriate and embarrassing for others to hear your intimate going-ons, and so there is also a button to play music or to give a flushing sound effect. In my company’s Tokyo office, there is actually the sound of birds chirping…because imagine the scandal if a co-worker hears you tinkle. Further, in many public toilets they have removed the question of “to touch or not to touch” with fully automated soap dispensers releasing warmed, creamy soap already lathered, motion sensing water faucets and super high speed drying machines (don’t linger too long, it can burn). It’s just…so…civilized.

The cute fetish, “kawaii”, and Hello Kitty
I am of the practical sort. I never understood the allure of Hello Kitty – it always seemed a bit juvenile and frivolous. I couldn’t make out why grown women (and some men) would have Hello Kitty plush toys or Pokeman waffle irons. But something in Japanese culture makes it indescribably attractive and somewhat addictive. This fetishizing of cute, or “kawaii” in Japanese (pronounced like Hawaii with a “k”) is oddly and magnetically attracting. Once the cute bug bites it’s over! You too will be buying Pikachu socks and Hello Kitty cell phone charms. And why on earth would you buy a plain writing pen when you can have an endlessly entertaining pink pen with a creature charm on top. When you really think about it, there is unlimited potential for cute-i-fying everything. And believe you me, this opportunity is not lost on the Japanese. If you are in Tokyo, you must go to Kiddyland in the oh so chic shopping area of Omotesando (like NYC’s Fifth Avenue). We somehow lost 2 hours in this emporium of cuteness, with me getting stuck on the Hello Kitty floor. If you cannot make it to Tokyo, then check out these websites dedicated to cataloging Hello Kitty items, House of Kitty,  and Kitty Hell. It’s a slippery slope – consider yourself warned!

Smoking is the national sport
While I don’t love this about Tokyo, I do find it rather amusing. Everyone here smokes. I am nearly certain that citizenship is conditional based on smoking status. And then ironic thing about the Japanese smoking culture is that just like everything else, they are super rigorous about how this is done. First, smoking is preferred indoors! That’s right, just about every place you go will allow smoking inside. Whereas smoking outside is frowned upon and limited to very tiny and hard to find smoking areas where Japanese salarymen jockey for the position closest to the refuse bin. The end result is the entire indoors of Tokyo smells faintly like an ashtray. Weird, huh?

A life lived outside the home – Cat Cafés, Izakayas and more
Tokyo apartments are exceedingly tiny. And so really for many, they serve the barest of functions…mostly for sleeping. Living happens outside the home – at bars, restaurants, tea houses, etc – with one returning home very late in the day (if at all). Even the usual comforts of home are outsourced as evidenced by the phenomena of cat cafes – where people go to relax and pet kitties, since they cannot accommodate pets in their own flats. Izakayas are in fact often homes away from home…”izakaya” meaning “be here and drink” in Japanese…it’s just a place where people hang out and while away the hours before returning home. It’s not exactly a restaurant, it’s not exactly a bar, it’s kind of both merging into a convivial place to go alone or gather with friends…have a drink, a snack, a smoke before going home to bed.

The Tokyo Metro & Bullet Trains
Taxis are crazy expensive. In fact, to take a taxi from the airport into downtown Shibuya, you would spend about $250 USD. And in town the meter starts at $7 USD and spirals up quite quickly. At the end of the day, the train is really your only option for affordable travel around town. So it’s rather lucky then that it goes damn near everywhere. I have never seen a more extensive network…ever. It makes New York or London look infinitesimally small in scale. And then there are the bullet trains – the 300km / hr (185 mph) high speed lines that cover greater Japan, from end to end. We took the Shinkansen bullet train from Tokyo to Kyoto – easy peasy, 2.5 hours later you’re in Kyoto sipping sake. And I am pretty sure if it is not on the train line, it is not worth going to. While it is a little intimidating the first time out, the automated systems are actually quite easy to use thanks to an English language interface. So don’t get overwhelmed….take a deep breath, refer to your map, and really what’s the worst that can happen?

Technology & Anime Madness
Japan remains at the cutting edge of technology with the 3^rd largest R&D expenditure in the world. Since 2006, you would have noticed commuters on the Tokyo Metro watching TV on their mobile phones on the way to work. Why this has not infiltrated TV-loving America, I have no idea. The area of Akihabara in particular is world famous for its mega-electronics stores with endless varieties of cameras, computers and tech gadgets. I am sad to say the days of cheap prices on these are gone though – while not overpriced, their prices reflect the global economy we live in today. You the best deal on a digital camera or computer? Buy it in the US – no kidding, the world’s best prices are in America, where none of this is actually made…because the consumer buying population is larger, the US can garner the most competitive wholesale prices.

But what is distinctive and also in the Akihabara area are anime and manga stuffs. The instantly recognizable large heads and big eyes of anime characters spill out onto the streets. Anime specifically is an abbreviation for “animation” but it has over time become a subculture referencing a certain type of TV, video game, movie, etc that is also usually very cute in nature. Manga on the other hand is a comic book form of cartoon characters. While these books can take on many themes, the most popular are science fiction and hero stories. Further, the cartoon comic format has extended into well, umm, less dignified forms known as “hentai.” Pornographic hentai cartoons are extremely popular and also explain the influx of teenage boys to the Akihabara area after school every day.  Someone said you could be arrested in the US for the sorts of things you can see in Akihabara, and I am pretty sure they are right.

Vending machines
No doubt you’ve heard about the preponderance of vending machines in Japan – its true. The most obvious uses are drinks and cigarettes – Paul was beyond words when he found both Mountain Dew and Dr Pepper in vending machines in Tokyo (neither of which favorite soda we have seen elsewhere in Asia).

But what was more surprising were vending machines selling hot meals like bowls of noodles, a machine selling umbrellas at the Tokyo Dome, another selling shirts and neckties (presumably for those who have stayed out all night, but still have to go to work), machines for charging your cell phone in 7 Eleven stores, another selling batteries or even flowers to take home to the wife (possibly also for the guy who stayed out all night …the list goes on and on.

Prepare to open your wallet (and keep it open)
OK, it’s true. Japan is crazy expensive. I asked our friend Troy about where lower income people live in Tokyo and he responded quickly that there really aren’t any – most of the average population of Tokyo is what we would call “middle class” or “upper middle class.” The average price of a mobile phone is about $500 USD, yet everyone seems to have them.

We’ve already talked about taxis where the meter starts at $7 USD. It’s nearly impossible to have a restaurant meal for less than $30 USD per person – and this is the low end. And a glass of wine will set you back about $20 USD.

But somehow I don’t mind paying for such perfection.

And so much more….and even after all these observations and experiences, somehow I know I have only scratched the surface of Tokyo and Japanese culture. And yet I am totally, completely hooked.

Haiku to Japan:
All things Japanese
From cute to toilet to nosh
Somehow are better

Lots of pictures of the market at the end of the article so scroll all the way down

Muslims have Mecca, lovers of Trance have the lovely town of Goa, surfers and single, middle-aged women looking for a spiritual awakening have Bali For lovers of sushi the most sacred pilgrimage of all is to the Tsukiji Fish Market in Tokyo, Japan.

Tsukiji is not only the largest fish market in the world but is also one of the largest food markets of any kind, anywhere. With nearly 3000 metric tons of fish passing through the market every single day, it’s a fair bet that most seafood getting out to people in Asia and other parts of the world began it’s life outside of the water at Tsukiji.

The night before our journey to the market I ate a quick meal in Shibuya and headed back to the hotel early to rest up. The action takes place early…fresh fish begins to unload at 3 AM and the bidding for the choice Tuna takes place around 5:20 AM. I wanted to be fresh…and hungry (more on that later). You can get to the market via subway (on the Tokyo Metro Hibiya Line) but I’d recommend you get a group and take a cab. Not because you need to necessarily, but because if you go on a Saturday morning you’ll see lots of Japanese people just going home from night of drinking…stumbling through the streets, friends helping each other along, or even sleeping in their business suits on on a doorway.  Some of them will even be heading to the fish market for a final meal and drink before heading home it is fairly common to make the fish market the final stop on a big night out in Tokyo.

I had trouble sleeping the night before…like a kid at Christmas I wanted the morning to come as quickly as possible. It wasn’t the market that excited me, it was my first full-on sushi meal of the Tokyo trip… something that had been far too delayed for my tastes. You see the market isn’t all that engaging past a certain point for outsiders. People are quickly going about their day receiving, cleaning, and selling fish. And unless you really like to hang out in cold, damp rooms with rushing packing carts flying by inches from running you over, it’s best to plan a short trip to the market.

Outside of the market you’ll find plenty of stores selling sushi knives, Japanese cooking gear, tourist t-shirts, etc. Inside you’ll find row after row of fish stalls selling everything from Tuna to Octopus to crazy creatures of the sea I would have never thought to eat.

Pushing in even deeper to the market you’ll find the Tuna auction house. I was hoping to hear guys calling out 1000-do-i-get-1000 Yen-to the guy in the back-1200-do i get 1200 or something like southern auction houses but with Japanese language. It wasn’t quite like that, but there was lots of barking. Unfortunately they pack all the tourists into a small area and everyone’s vying for shots though all are too far away to really see or hear anything good.

Do ensure you get there early for the action. The day we visited I think they started clearing folks out around 6:30 AM. Afterwards you’re free to continue roaming the aisles of fish. But a smarter person will run to get in line for some food. Since this is the freshest fish in the world, it stands to reason that when you eat the sushi here it’s probably gonna be the freshest you can have short of catching a fish in the open ocean and cutting it up on the spot. It’s incredible, the fish literally travels 50 meters to the restaurant. I’ve never eaten sushi before lunchtime, but a 6AM treat like this is not to be missed.

We put our faith in the Luxe guide and either everyone else was a fan of the guide or the place really was good because there was already a snaking queue three lines of people deep in front of the door to Daiwa Sushi.

Patiently we waited in the rain, eyes droopy from little sleep. After about 45 minutes to an hour our patience was rewarded as we were ushered into the tiny sushi bar. I took my seat in the corner. My back pressed into the wall and my face was probably no more than 2 ft from the chef. Ultra fancy, super-modern sushi restaurant this isn’t…. but you’re here for the fish and man does it shine.

I wasn’t listening to the chef when he asked us for orders as I was looking around for menus, but apparently we agreed to the set everyone in the restaurant was ordering. It’s a beginner’s guide to sushi set. I don’t consider myself a beginner, but I was hungry and looking for anything I could get my hands on.

The dishes served were:
- miso with clams

- Japanese omelet & sea urchin

- shrimp tuna maki roll, fatty tuna, and shrimp sashimi

- yellow tail & eel

and a few other things I wolfed down before realizing I should have taken a picture

Freshness of every dish was unbelievable. Tastes like I’d never experienced before. The Sea Urchin completely redeemed itself from our horrible experience with it in Kyoto (more on that soon).

The Tuna. Oh man, I don’t have the words to describe. I once heard a rumor that the Japanese sort all the green tea they produce and set aside the good stuff for local consumption and then export the lower grade teas to other countries. I feel like they do this with the tuna. There simply isn’t Tuna of this quality in America (I’ve eaten in NYC and Texas, but never in San Fran so maybe there?).

I relished every piece in the set. Thankfully Joanna isn’t big on sushi (but was doing her best to develop a taste and ate quite a bit) so I was able to have seconds of some of the dishes. After the set was over I ordered a few more pieces of the select fatty tuna for good measure.

I left tired, but extremely satisfied. Had the market not been closed the next Sunday I would have probably returned the next morning for another meal. I won’t go back for to see the auction, but I will definitely return for the sushi. If you’re a lover of food and particularly sushi, this is a trip you MUST make. There’s really nothing like it.

Tsukiji
The Tuna Auction Area is off-limits
(except from 5:00AM until 6:15AM)

Daiwa Sushi
Tsukiji Market Part6 Bldg. 5-2-1 Tsukiji, Chuo-ku, Tokyo
Closed Sundays

Tourist area of the tuna auction

Bespoke fashion clothing and suiting for bargain prices

No trip to Shanghai would be complete without a trip to the Fabric Market, also known as the Shanghai South Bund Soft-Spinning Material Market. For gals and guys alike this expansive, multi-floor market is a paradise for any size, style or type clothing. Larger size expats often shop here out of necessity, ordering everything from jogging pants to Ermenegildo Zegna suits (in Asia an American woman’s size 10 is considered plus size). Whether you choose from the designs on offer or bring your latest issue of Vogue magazine, anything can be made. It is almost overwhelming –Armani wools, Chinese silks and an endless array of design options…. I personally find myself a little giddy over the seemingly endless options.

OUR FAVORITE STALLS

• Go see “Mr. Chanel” at Chanel Style stall No. 271 on the 2nd floor. Myself and my friend Lara have both bought here, and everything always turns out perfect and always fits.
• Shu Xiao Jie at stall No 262 on the 2nd floor does lovely dresses and coats. I bought a silk color-blocked dress that inspires compliments with every wear. Lara bought a stunningly accurate Max Mara winter wool coat, a Burberry-inspired trench and a couple of brightly coloured silk dresses.
• At Wu Mei Shu No 193 on the 1st floor there is a dizzying array of silks. I am now the proud owner of 2 silk party dresses and a breezy, colourful skirt that makes me smile every time I put it on.
• At Chinese Style Dress Shop 1F No 145 Paul bought an absolutely gorgeous winter coat – a classic cashmere 3/4 length in a rich looking chocolate colour with immaculate detailing on the inside….at 1/10th of what it would have cost in the US. He’s now wishing we didn’t live in Singapore, so he could wear it all the time
• At Kenny Yang’s Shop 3F No. 333, you’ll find a good variety of modern Chinese silk prints as well as artificial fur. The artificial fur sounds a bit odd, but he had some lovely sofa cushions and throw blankets that were irresistably snuggly. I ended up buying 2 gorgeous and festive silk tops (one looks like a classic Pucci pattern) which I plan to wear out for cocktails on Friday and Saturday nights as well as a classic silk dress in a to-die-for deep midnight blue.

TIPS

• Browse thoroughly before diving into a store – there’s no worse feeling that spending your budget and then stumbling upon something on your way out that you wish you’d seen sooner.
• Be prepared to haggle – it is not only acceptable but it is expected. But really though at about $40USD a dress, the risk of dissatisfaction is quite low and what is another +/- $5 USD either way.
• Leave enough time to go back for a fitting. Sometimes things are just right, but just as often they are not and adjustments are required.

Shanghai South Bund Soft-Spinning Material Market
NEW LOCATION
No 399 LuJiaBang Road
Shanghai, China

Like Brooklyn is to Manhattan, Kichijoji is to Tokyo – with some damn good spare ribs and octopus!

If you want to see real local flavour in an easily accessible Tokyo neighbourhood, take the 15 minute ride to Kichijoji. Kichijoji, in the Western area of Tokyo, is about 5 stops on the express train from Shibuya on the Keio Inokashira line (¥190 / $2 USD) and is to Tokyo what Brooklyn is to Manhattan – a cool little area where a lot of people live when they want a city feel but with a bit more space.

Often heralded as a destination for the Spring cherry blossom viewing, there is a great deal more to Kichijoji than just cherry blossoms. Feeling every bit a part of the vibrancy of Tokyo, Kitchijoji features some excellent shopping, great dining, and a couple of distinctive sights that make it well worth the trip.

Shopping
Head out the North exit for some excellent shopping. Kichijoji has it all – from department stores like OIOI Marui, Tokyu, Parco entertainment emporium, and Isetan to cool, ironic and street smart boutiques…even vintage clothing at stores.

There’s also a large Yodobashi Camera at Kichijoji-hon-cho, this is the famous Japanese electronics emporium – selling everything from computers, stereo components, cameras to just about any electronic gadget you could dream of.

Unusual finds abound around every corner.  In fact, if you are outdoorsy or just have an affinity for New England fashion, I saw the first LL Bean I have ever seen outside of the US!

We were blown away by the 6 floor Muji with everything from jewelry boxes, trash bins and jelly drinks to bicycles, towels and rice cookers. I love Muji….the aesthetic is something like a Japanese zen cross between Ikea and Container Store. Also with really cool and simple clothing…a higher end version of the Gap with simple basics in neutral colors. I am almost ashamed to admit we spent a good 2 hours prowling this single store!

Nakamichi Street, more known for dining, is also a great shopping destination with lots of cute and cool stores. Well worth a stroll, one could kill a couple of hours here browsing in and out of the shops.

Sightseeing
While walking around the area is entertaining in and of itself, there are a couple of special things to see in Kichijoji – Inokashira Park and the Ghibli Museum.

Inokashira Park opened in the early 1900’s as a gift from the emperor to the general public. Today it is a place which is a highlight destination for hanami during cherry blossom season. There is a zoo and street performers on on Saturdays and Sundays, making it a lively weekend destination. Also notably it carries the legend of Benzaiten, a vengeful goddess of love. Benzaiten is said to seek revenge on all courting couples by casting a spell upon them that brings about an untimely end to their love. It is said couples who venture out onto the pond in a boat are particularly vulnerable to the curse of Benzaiten.

Or visit Ghibli Museum on the west end of Inokashira Park, the museum of all things Ghibli….the Disney of Japan. Lose yourself in cells of animation, characters and the mazelike structure of the museum which seems to physically embody Ghibli motto ‘let’s lose our way together.’ Please note, if you do plan to visit the museum…strangely one cannot buy tickets at the door, they must be purchased ahead of time, check out article for info on how to get tickets : Our Trip to the Ghibli Museum.

Drinking and Hanging Out
There’s a bar on practically every corner, from English pub-style to Reggae-themed to the ubiquitous izakaya. We honestly would not be able to properly cover the assortment of options without weeks of trying them all (a fun idea, but I do have a day job!).

Our friend Troy who has been living Tokyo for 8 years and in Kichijoji now with his wife Kana, took us to Aladdin Bar. This is a crazy, tiny hookah bar that looks and feels a bit like a tree house. The stairs are more like a ladder up to the 2nd floor, in fact Paul had to turn sideways to make it up. Aladdin Bar is a good place to have a beer or two and smoke sheesha. There are many flavors on offer, but I might recommend that you avoid the Jasmine Rose. It sounded like a nice idea…maybe even tea inspired…but it really tasted more like a woman’s perfume.

Eating
Troy tells us that Nakamichi Street is littered with great French, Italian and of course Japanese restaurants. We were here for some spare ribs – in fact, to some degree this really was the main reason for our Kichijoji jaunt. Troy and Kana pretty much sold us when they said something like, “the best spare ribs we have ever tasted…” OK – wherever that is, we are there!

And so we found ourselves at Shutters on Nakamichi Street in Kichijoji. We feasted on 3 different kinds of spare ribs (¥2000 / $20 USD each) – soy sauce, basil and salt & pepper. The soy sauce version was hands down the group favourite with the Salt & Pepper coming up as a close second for me. But all of them were really incredible – generously seasoned, kissed with smoke and slow cooked to the point that the ribs were so tender and succulent that the meat fell from the bone.

The other highlight of the meal was the Octopus Grilled in Butter, Escargot Style (¥1500 / $15 USD). This was a close competitor of the spare ribs as a favourite dish. It’s a rather simple preparation of octopus and butter browned in an escargot dish, served with chunks of crusty bread. It was simple, but not short on flavour. It was a race to the finish of this dish, with Paul and I both sopping up the last bits of browned goodness from the dish with the bread.

We also shared a 3 Cheese Risotto (¥1600 / $16 USD) and Spaghetti with Garlic and Red Pepper (¥1500 / $15 USD) to round out the meal and complement but not interfere with the flavourful preparations of the spare ribs and octopus.

The meal was finished off with Apple Pie a la Mode. OK, so this is not traditionally Japanese, but like with most dishes the Japanese adopt from other cultures they manage to one-up the execution and presentation of the dish to improve upon it.

A rich and heavy meal? In retrospect, yes it was ridiculously heavy, but totally worth it. Between the spare ribs and the octopus, this is a meal that is living large in my taste memories at the moment.

For more info on Kichijoji, including detailed shopping, bar and restaurant listings we recommend the following sites:

http://wikitravel.org/en/Tokyo/Kichijoji

http://metropolis.co.jp/tokyofeaturestoriesarchive299/264/tokyofeaturestoriesinc.htm

http://www.sunnypages.jp/search/kichijoji