Say hello to my new favourite restaurant in Shanghai!

(Photos by Joanna)

I had been meaning to try Mr. & Mrs. Bund for a while. It’s close to the Westin Hotel where I always stay when in Shanghai. It has a bit of buzz. And the chef was the notable Paul Pairet from former fame at Jade on 36 (which has suffered since he left). Well, if I had known what I know now, I would have been beating a path to its door much, much sooner. I am not sure what I like more – the inventive French food with Asian flourishes, the sexy yet chill vibe or innovative serve-yourself wine bar? I suppose it’s all this and more that led to a recent roaring good time on my last trip to Shanghai. Say hello to my new fave in Shanghai, Mr. & Mrs. Bund (my favorite is still Stiller’s Paul ).

Inspired not just a little by the film, Mr. & Mrs. Smith, the linkage is obvious when you approach Mr. & Mrs. Bund’s entrance of twin red and green doors. The doors look like that of suburban manse and require the guest to ring a doorbell to enter. Already, this was not your typical French restaurant.

What lied behind the doors was a sprawling expanse of dining areas. It’s actually rare to see a restaurant so large that uses space so well. Fully of intimate nooks and crannies as well as larger tables for groups, the décor is a sexy blend of red and black.

The roof deck affords an amazing view of the bund and there is also a lounge area for relaxing before or after dinner. A separate bar area features over-size chairs reminiscent of Alice in Wonderland and a special temperature-controlled, air-controlled, by-the-glass wine serving system. With 32 types of wine available by the glass, you can secure a card and serve yourself as you please…changing by the course or as the mood suits.

We were 12 people and so we ended up with a large table in the corner. The Lazy Susan carousel in the center of the table made it obvious that Mr. & Mrs. Bund advocates the spirit of sharing. With that in mind and after a quick chat with the congenial and gracious manager Rene, we decided to let the chef put together a range of house specialties for us to try. Considering that we represented a mélange of 7 nationalities and 4 of the diners were vegetarian, we upped the challenge for the kitchen. But what followed not only did not disappoint, it was inspiring. Before the food arrived there was no shortage of dynamic conversation, but once the food arrived…the group quieted. The focus was on, as it should be, the culinary creativity, whimsical presentations and quality represented. After the initial oohing and aahing stopped, conversation resumed…but it was all about the food. No more discussions of business or vacation plans, it was exclamations of surprise and delight. We laughed, we cried and the meal became a part of us.

What was so spectacular, you ask? Well, I suppose the only place to start is at the beginning. Our taste buds were awakened with an amuse bouche from the chef – a tuna mousse served playfully in a re-purposed tuna can with crispy toast points. The mousse was airy yet fully of peppery, tuna flavor, a perfect warm up for what was to follow.

Next we were greeted with two dishes, Large Steamed Asparagus with Foamed Hollandaise and the house’s signature Picnic Chicken, carved tableside and served with greens and garlic aioli. It was no mystery why the Picnic Chicken is so popular. It was perhaps the most succulent and tender chicken I have enjoyed in recent memory, and the flavour was subtly and expertly enhanced with a generous side of aioli.

Next followed the Foie Gras Crumble. Oh my! This was perhaps the table’s favourite. The combination of the green apple jelly accents, the perfectly executed foie gras and a crumbled fruit topping was haunting. My heart beats faster as I recall the sensual blend of flavours and textures in every bite.

Just when we thought it couldn’t get any better, the Steamed Prawns arrived. Not just any steamed prawns, mind you…these were steamed in a large glass Mason jar with citrus, lemongrass and vanilla. I am not sure what was more exciting the flavour or the presentation.

The vegetarians were delighted with the Risotto Truffle and Paris. A risotto with white truffles, Paris mushrooms, parmigiano and a light meuniere. In fact there was a tussle with the meat eaters over this dish and to keep the peace we ordered a second serving 

Next up was Meuniere Bread, a toasted bread dredged in a light meuniere with truffle and lemon foam. It was up there with the Foie Gras Crumble as an unexpected star of the evening. If I could enjoy this daily, I would. It was beyond mouthwatering…this high-brow comfort food was totally addictive. I surreptitiously eyed my neighbor who was also enamored with this dish in order to see if I could secure the last bite.

We were startled and amazed when the Beef Long Ribs with Terriyaki Glaze, Organge Reduction and Garlic Chips showed up. These were simply enormous ribs. The large bones protruding gave them a bit of caveman Flinestones feeling. I felt purely carnivorous digging into the tender, juicy yet toothsome meat.

Finally was the Black Cod in the Bag. Another creative and whimsical presentation of black cod steamed in a heat proof bag with Cantonese sauce and assembled tableside. The delicate flavours of the fish greatly enhanced with the sauce, made for an exciting rendition of steamed fish, which can normally be a bit boring. Yes, this dish was anything but boring.

Finally, dessert. We were stuffed, so we asked if they could keep it simple. The resulting answer was yes and no. While the tastes were simply, honest, bright and fresh, the presentation and sophistication was complex and impressive. First was Chocolate Very Melting – a steamed chocolate bun, vanilla ice cream, topped with a meringue and raspberry coulis and liquor. It is just a wee bit brispy on the outside and as the name suggests, melty on the inside – in a word, heaven.

Next up was the Lemon & Lemon Tart. This seemingly simple dish takes 72 hours to prepare. A candied lemon is filled with lemon sorbet, lemon curd and vanilla chantilly. Because the lemon is candied, its not just a vessel for serving, but is actually a part of the dish to be eaten. Loving lemon, this for me was the pièce de résistance of the  meal.

So the food was amazing, no doubt. But it was more than that which made the experience truly memorable. For one, the waiters were truly knowledgeable about all the dishes and actually seemed like they were having…gasp…fun. The serve yourself wine cooler was a huge hit and took a bit of the preciousness (in a good way) out of ordering wines. The music was a blend of Simon & Garfunkel, Michael Jackson, AC/DC, French Jazz, etc. which further contributed to the convivial and festive vibe.

In the end, we were 12 people (again with 7 nationalities represented), all with different culinary tastes, some drinkers and some non-drinkers…pretty much an impossible group to please. But there wasn’t one person that didn’t leave with a big smile on their face after dining at Mr. & Mrs. Bund. Many of my guests actually thanked me for choosing a place that inspired such a fun and memorable night.

This was the most unfussy French dining experience I have ever experienced – and I loved it. Who knew fine French dining could be so much fun! ?

PS – Mr. & Mrs. Bund stays open until 4am Tues – Sat, so if you are out having drinks and fancy a bite, keep the party going and head over late night.

Mr & Mrs Bund
Bund 18, 6th Floor
18 Zhong Shan Dong Yi Road
Shanghai, China
Telephone: +86 21 6323 9898

It’s safe to say there’s a bit of animosity in Texas towards the French. I have no idea why or how it started, but some folks, particularly Texas males, find the whole concept of France… too French. Thankfully I’ve left home and experienced the wonderful culinary traditions of France and no longer share in my hometown scorn. As a kid growing up, you hear about the snails, the exploded duck liver, the rich sauces. For some reason the simplest of French cuisine never found it’s way to our ears. If there’s one concept though that could unite these two varied peoples…. it’s Steak Frites. There’s nothing more Texan than a steakhouse, and add all you can eat fries to the mix and you have a winning combo in my book.

In Singapore we have Les Bouchons. And it’s lovely in it’s simplicity. Could easy make a francophile of the staunchest red-blooded hillbilly

Les Bouchons has two locations around Singapore. One on Ann Siang Hill and one near the Quay. I personally prefer the one in Ann Siang Hill… because it’s really close and because I kind of think steak frites places should be intimate and small. You do need to book ahead though at Ann Siang, sometimes a couple days in advance, as there are only 6 or so tables inside and a couple out front near the entrance.

The first time we visited we had actually made reservations at the other location, but decided not to travel down to the Quay in rush hour and tried our luck at the Club Street area location. They were full. But amazingly the hostess checked her seating and asked us if we were ready to immediately order. One of the bookings was coming in 45 minutes and we could squeeze in if we didn’t mind not lounging around. Perfect. A nice touch of personal service not commonly found around Singapore.

Took our seats and sized up the menu. Simple, no-frills menu. There’s a ribeye, a fish, a couple other things…. that’s it. There’s also a chef’s special Cote De Boeuf for two that sounded appealing but I like my steaks bloody and Joanna prefers more well done so we went our separate ways. I was hoping for some of the side items from their sister restaurant L’Angelous… sadly the creamed spinach and potatoes gratin have stayed a few doors down

We started with the snails. Gotta have them. Rich, buttery, with a heaping amount of herbs. Never a good dish for you, but these little univalves are always so pleasing.

I ordered the ribeye. Cooked perfectly mid-rare with a heaping dollop of flavored butter on top. The steak was seasoned right and not dry, so the butter wasn’t necessary… but it did push the whole thing to another level. Definitely worth eating.

Joanna got the salmon, which on paper sounded perfect. It came out a little less done than she’d like, but that’s to be expected. Most restaurants serve salmon a bit on the rarer side. Sadly the fish had a bit of too-fishy taste which cut down on her enjoyment.

The fries and house pour wine were also a bit average. I was ready to chow down on frites and knock back a few glasses of bold red, but thankfully for my ever growing gut I was tempted to take more than the first serving of each. They frites aren’t bad, they’re just not a destination menu item (which I kind of feel they should be at a steak frites place).

Come for the name sake and skip the rest. It’s a steak and fries place, not a fancy fish dish place (you want that head a few doors down). I think the true enjoyment of the place comes though in a larger group. A few people, a couple decent bottles of wine and steaks. A simple concept, but one that could bring the world together (except maybe India).

Oh and like L’Angelous and my personal favorite watering hole Bario Chino, the Veuve Clicquot is very reasonable by the bottle… perfect when celebrating with a group.

Les Bouchons
7 Ann Siang Road S (Club Street area)
Tel: 6423 0737

Les Bouchons Rive Gauche
41 Robertson Quay
#01-01 Singapore Tyler Print Institute

A birds eye view on the Bund and fine French dining from the 36^th Floor of the Shangri La Hotel

I think we might be addicted to multi-course degustation menus. You might think this is lazy, to let the chef pick for you. But in reality it is the diner’s best opportunity to see what the chef can really do – his highlight reel in a way. And as the keen observers of culinary trends that our readers no doubt are, you will notice this is all the rage. Maybe it has something to do with the new “rock star” or “celebrity chef” culture, maybe it is diners’ increasing demand for the best quality…whatever it is, this is what we tend to order when it is available. And so on a recent visit to Jade on 36 in Shanghai at the Shangri La Hotel, we decided to give their 5 course tasting menu a run through.

There were actually 2 gastronomic tasting menus on offer – the Acqua and the Firma. The Acqua inspired by all things sea (538 RMB / $ USD / S$) and the Firma (688 RMB / $ USD / S$) inspired by all things land or meat. There were 4 of us dining that night and we split evenly down the middle – 2 ordering the Acqua and 2 ordering the Firma. How convenient!

The Acqua menu consisted of:

• L’Ormeau– lightly pan seared abalone with tomato compote & eggplant dressing
• Les Moules – creamy mussel soup with vegetables julienne
• Darne de Turbot – turbot fish with capers, lemon, potato & chicken jus
• Citron – lemon meringue tart with basil syrup
• Petit fours – with coffee or tea

The Firma menu consisted of:

• Foie Gras D’oie – goose liver terrine with truffles, Muscat jelly & raspberry dressing
• St Germain – yellow split pea soup with croutons & bacon
• Escargots – pan fried snails vineyard style & French toast with sweet spices
• Boeuf Wagyu – wagyu beef sirloin with seasonal vegetables, shallots & pepper sauce
• Macaroon – chestnut macaroon & vanilla poached pears with coffee or tea

As is customary these days, we started with a surprise amuse bouche from the chef – a pea soup with coconut foam and cheese cracker. It was a classic rendition of pea soup slightly modernized. I used to be a foam cynic, thinking that they were a bit pretentious and typically superfluous, but I must admit I am coming around… the burst of coconut added an unexpected twist that was appreciated. The cheese cracker, however, was a really a taste afterthought.

In general while both gastronomic menus read as quite innovative and tempting, I will say we were a bit let down in some cases by the execution on a few dishes. Somehow the concepts were more impressive than the actual dishes. For example, the pan fried snails and french toast which should have been an intriguing juxtaposition of flavour profiles but instead was, in a word, bland. Also the abalone which should have been a delicacy exalted to the next level, was instead rather ordinary.

Interior a mix of modern and Chinese styles

And while the dishes named above were somewhat disappointing, I would love to be able to tell you about the real standouts. But looking back at the meal, nothing actually does stand out. Most of the other items were executed with a certain degree of competence, but somehow lacked the depth and soul one expects of a gastronomic tasting menu.

Jade 36 dining with a view of the bund

Who knows…maybe it was an off night. Certainly the service was spotty. The waiter was not terribly attentive and when he was there he seemed uncomfortable and downright anxious. In fact, he was so nervous he served my wine in my water glass – which was already full of water!

In summary while I would say this is a lovely site for a meal with a view, the tasting menu simply didn’t stand up to our level of expectations. I think I would prefer to go to some old favorites like M on the Bund or Jean Georges before returning to Jade on 36 any time soon.  That said, the bar area provides a lovely spot to have a drink and a view of the Bund, so perhaps this is the way to go when visiting Jade on 36.

Jade on 36, Shangri La Hotel
Tower 2, Pudong Shangri-La, 36th fl, 33 Fucheng Rd
Shanghai, China

Telephone: +86 (21) 6882 3636

A very special New Year’s Eve at Amantee

We decided to spend Christmas and New Year’s in Thailand this year. It was time to totally chill out and honestly I have yet to find a better place than Thailand for complete relaxation. But we still wanted to do something special for New Year’s Eve in Bangkok and when we heard Amantee was having one of their seasonal celebratory event dinners, ourselves and some friends immediately booked a table.

Our friend Jeremie Sebag is the Executive Chef at Amantee. We have been to visit him at Le Café at Amantee before, but being based in Singapore, we seemed to always miss the epic dinner events at Amantee that our Bangkok friends raved about. We have also had the pleasure of also dining in his home a few times and I will say that based on these experiences plus our experience at Le Cafe, anytime a meal prepared by Jeremie is on offer when we are in Bangkok, we are there!

Amantee is more than a restaurant, it is a series of joined traditional Thai teak houses that features a gallery and store of Oriental and Tibetan antiques as well as Le Café that Jeremie runs. They often host special dinners, wine tastings and exhibitions at their serene location in Chaeng Wattana, a short taxi ride from downtown Bangkok.

This particular dinner was a special New Year’s Eve Jazz event. We arrived and were greeted with cocktails and hors d’oeuvres on the charming teak terrace – replete with Thai silk covered cushions and lit by candlelight. Paul particularly liked the Lemon Flavoured Mousseline and Gravlax Salmon Verrine, while I was drawn in by the Pan-fried Gamba Tail Wrapped in Pancetta with Rouille.

But the real event was the 6-course meal with paired wines we were about to enjoy.

1^st course:
Oyster tartare with passion fruit, snowfish skewer in herb crust

2^nd course:
Chanterelle cream vanilla – cappuccino style

Wine for courses 1 & 2: Macon Village Grand Elevage Maison Verget, 2006

3rd course:
Foie gras creme brulee with green apple emulsion

4^th course:
Oven baked scallops with creamy champagne sauce

Wine for courses 1 & 2: Chablis Terroirs de Chablis Maison Verget, 2006

5^th course:
Caramelized calves’ sweetbread on a sweet potato puree with cocoa and sautéed water chesnuts

Wine for course 5: Saint-Estephe Chateau de Pez, 2005

6th course:
Dessert, composition around 3 chocolates

Wine for 6^th course: champagne, optional

Jeremie had done it again – actually he is quite consistent, so I am not surprised The meal was flawless. Jeremie is masterful at modern French cuisine as represented this evening as well – the presentation of each dish was quietly elegant while the food itself utilized delicate layers of flavours that built into classic, yet fresh flavour profiles.

We also enjoyed the music of Jerry Byrd, a famous American Jazz guitarist who is the long time guitarist for the legendary pianist/vocalist  Freddy Cole, brother of Nat King Cole. He has also played with jazz greats such as Roland Kirk, Jack McDuff, Sonny Stitt, Dizzy Gillespie, Lonnie Smith, “Slide” Hampton, and Frank Foster, among others.(You can sometimes see him playing at the Sheraton Grande Sukhhumvit).

Between the good company, great food, perfectly paired wines and soulful jazz, I can think of no better way to have said goodbye to 2009 and to have rung in 2010. If you are ever in Bangkok, do check out Amantee and Le Café…if you are lucky perhaps they will have a special dinner event in the offing.

Amantee
131/3 Chaeng Wattana 13, Laksi,
Bangkok 10210 Thailand
Telephone: +66 (0) 2 9828 6945

Bubbly wine tasting debunks the ‘has to be expensive’ and ‘has to be French’ myth

We were invited to a blind bubbly wine tasting by our friends at The Local Nose.  The idea of the event was to taste both champagnes and sparkling wines of all price points and from various regions to see if one could discern the difference between champagne vs. sparkling wine, and expensive vs. inexpensive.

For Paul and I it was an interesting and illuminating experience. I am a self-professed bubbly addict  – Prosecco, Cava, Champagne, you name it, I love it. And Paul is just discovering the joys of the bubbly in recent years. Ostensibly we should be miles apart with regard to bubbly expertise. But actually this is not the case….on the scoring card, we got exactly the same number of questions right. In other words we tied. Tied! Were all my years of “investment” in bubbly drinking experiences and tours of vineyards all for naught?

Well, no. But here’s what I learned at the blind bubbly tasting event:

1) It doesn’t have to be expensive to be high quality
One of my favorites was a S$36 ($26 USD) bottle of Austrian NV Szigeti Brut. A dry, drinkable champagne with a bit of citrus and a wonderfully clean finish. Perfect for aperitifs. And for this price, perhaps I should start drinking this instead of water

2) Veuve Clicquot, my usual favourite, has been given a run for its money!
It turns out my absolute favourite for the evening was Champagne Moutard Brut, S$60 ($43 USD). While more expensive than the Austrian wine above, when compared to my usual pick of Veuve Clicquot at a price of S$88 ($63 USD), this is an exceptional value! It’s light and citrusy, with a tiny hint of floral and a soft finish.

3)    At the end of the day, it’s just about what you like
I was reminded to trust my taste buds, rather than fancy labels or the popular masses. Sure you can buy that bottle whose label will be universally recognized and will impress your guests…or you can surprise and delight your guests with your discerning palate and the ability to discover lesser known gems.

So get out there and discover some fantastic champagnes and sparkling wines. Please don’t relegate this majestic drink to the odd and in between special occasion. And above all, trust your palate….as we learned, it doesn’t matter what it costs or what’s on the label, just enjoy.

Some local resources to help you get your bubbly on!:

The Local Nose, Singapore
A helpful website all about wines in Singapore.

Wines2u
Great value French wines delivered to your door in Singapore. Stocks the $60 Moutard Brut mentioned above.

Rubicon Reserve Wines
A Singapore distributor with an extensive list of old and new world wines. Stocks the S$38 Szigeti mentioned above.

Count the number of sparking/champagnes tasted (Not pictured, our welcome drink & one bottle in flight 3 )

Stunning presentation, impeccable service and inventive, modern French cuisine

It was Paul’s birthday, so it had to be special…something out of the ordinary and truly impressive. After much consideration I selected Gunther’s, #7 on the Miele Guide’s list for top restaurants in Asia. I think what got me, besides its reputation as one of the best restaurants in Singapore, was the idea of a menu-less, 8-course tasting dinner designed on the spot by the chef (who trained in a 3-starred Michelin restaurant in Paris). The idea of every course being a surprise sounded exhilarating and like just the kind of unique experience I was looking to share with Paul on his special day.

And in fact, everything about our experience was absolutely flawless. When we entered  the restaurant we were treated like VIPs (and I didn’t even mention to them it was a birthday). They took my bag and carried it for me…lest I be perturbed with even the smallest nuisance of shouldering my laptop…and ushered us to our table. We were immediately greeted and the waiter did something I have never seen before….he brought the raw ingredients of today’s specials on a platter to our table for us to see them first hand. There was an impressive array of kuroge wagyu beef, lobster (still moving!), crab legs, a leg of Spanish ham on a carving tray, and a magnificent truffle covered by a domed plate. If there was any question about having the tasting menu, this completely removed it.

As we ordered the tasting menu, they asked if we had any special dislikes or dietary issues. I personally don’t like carpaccios (raw sliced meats / fish), and since I had seen these on the menu I decided to mention that. No judgment, no snooty derision…just a respectful reply of “of course madame.” We were asked if we would like the paired wine tasting as well….I said “yes”, Paul opted for “no” since he was getting over a cold. And with that the fun began…

1^st course
Japanese tomatoes with balsamic reduction and Spanish Ham

Why does everything Japanese taste better?….small, sweet and perfectly ripe tomatoes were an absolute delight with the Spanish ham. The balsamic vinegar served to cut the heaviness of the ham and the sweetness of the tomato and the result was perfect harmony.

2^nd course
Scallop carpaccio with tomato (for Paul) and grilled scallop with tomato (for me)

A stunning, simple presentation…..perfectly grilled in my case, and delicately seasoned and garnished in Paul’s case.

3^rd course
Capellini with caviar and white truffle

The domed truffle was no doubt used for this simple yet intensely flavourful dish. The earthly aroma wafted up from our dishes and I am pretty sure we didn’t speak as we silently savoured this dish. And in fact, it reminded Paul of a famous Eric Ripert dish from Le Bernardin in NYC.

4^th course
Cepe mushroom with scamorza cheese

Again, simple but harmonious combination of ingredients resulting in a delicate, yet satisfying mouthful.

5^th course
Alaskan king crab with chili oil in a pasta shell

Beautifully presented and judiciously seasoned, a lovely a light mouthful before the heavier courses.

6^th course
Kuroge wagyu beef grilled with corn and potato croquettes

Meat and potatoes if you get right down to it….but this is no average meat, the pinnacle of beef from an ancient stock of Japanese black-haired cattle. So tender and juicy it melts in your mouth. And the simplest item on the dish, the corn, was remarkably fresh and amazingly sweet.

7^th course
Pan-fried scamorza cheese, white truffle and Spanish ham

It’s hard to say what was my favourite course – it was a toss up between this one and the kuroge beef. There is no more classic combination than ham and cheese and when elevated with the best quality ingredients plus white truffles…well, something classic becomes something divine.

8^th course
Apple tart with rum raisin ice cream + compliments of the chef mini macaroons, valhrona chocolate, cannelles and cookies

A creative take on a classic was the perfect finish to a truly perfect meal. I am also a sucker for macaroons, so I was delighted to have the added and unexpected bonus of these and other wonderful cookies and chocolates.

It’s not often we write a review without a hint of constructive criticism….but Gunther’s was in fact as flawless a meal and dining experience as we have had in years. Every detail was considered and perfectly executed in every part of the service….from the inventive presentations to the masterful, yet simple flavour combinations to the highly attentive but somehow unobtrusive wait staff. OK, our experience was expensive…it cost us around $800 SGD for the chef’s tasting menu for 2 with 1 person doing the wine pairing (with service and GST), but I do believe it was totally worth it. But don’t be scared off by our bill…if you order a la carte off the menu, entrees can be had for $38 – 75 SGD, so not every meal has to be as extravagant as ours was.

Honestly, the bar has been set so high now by Gunther’s in Singapore that I struggle to imagine a better meal at any restaurant in any country. Our immediate circle of friends may well be tired of hearing about our culinary masterpiece of a meal, but we never seem to tire of talking about it. If you haven’t been there yourself, revisit your calendar and make it happen – a culinary story of your own awaits.

Gunther’s
36 Purvis Street, #01-03
Singapore
Telephone: +65 6338 8955

Creative reinterpretations of French classics alongside the standards

There was a lazy weekend stretched ahead of us….for the first time in 9 months, we didn’t have one single appointment on the weekend. This had been planned intentionally. The good thing about running this blog is the wide variety of adventures and experiences we have. The bad thing can be there is little to no down time. And so we awoke on Saturday morning and went to our friend Helena’s restaurant Epicurious for a lazy breakfast. As we ate, Helena came and joined us and was chatting about a lovely French meal she had enjoyed the night prior at Le Bistrot. As she told us more we were intrigued and then something about a Wagyu Beef Cheek Crumble sealed the deal. We knew where we were going to have dinner that night…

At first we thought it a bit peculiar to be heading to a stadium for dinner…I mean coming from America, the stadiums are full of food (nachos, hotdogs, beer, French fries), but these are not places that are culinary destinations. But we had in fact heard that Singapore Indoor Stadium was different in this regard with several destination food outlets. But even if it had been in a basement somewhere, we simply had to check out Le Bistrot given Helena’s tantalizing description of “melt in your mouth” Wagyu Crumble as well as her genuine surprise as a restauranteer on the creativity of the menu.

We opted for the Prix Fixe menu which seemed like good value given that you could get 2 courses for S$50 or 3 courses for S$60. Paul ordered Vichyssoise Glace to start…but this was no ordinary cold potato leek soup…this version featured arruga caviar, Pernod marinated tiger prawns and pickled cucumber.

I had the Veloute d’Ail au Sandwich de Rillettes, a hearty and rich version of soup and sandwich with creamy roast garlic soup accompanied by a toasted sandwich of duck rillettes and Emmental cheese. Paul’s Vichyssoise was in fact excellent, but honestly we were truly floored by my dish. A perfect pairing of mild and buttery roasted garlic soup with a dedacent buttery grilled sandwich filled with duck rillettes. It was just such a sinful mouthful between the two dishes…maybe one criticism is that it is insanely rich. But I loved it, and if the restaurant served nothing else, I would return again just for this perfect pair.

Next for the mains. Paul ordered the now infamous Crumble au Joue de Boeuf Wagyu, Pommes Sarladaises… beef cheek crumble with duck fat potatoes and mesclun salad. OK, Helena you were right…it is such a creative dish…reinterpreting a crumble which is typically a baked dessert into a baked savory entrée. The crumble with the creamy sauce and shredded bits of tender beef cheek is in fact inspired.

I think Paul and I nearly arm-wrestled over who was going to order the beef cheek crumble and after all the debate, I really had a taste for beef. So I ordered the Steak Frites, a grilled steak with pink peppercorns and pomme frites. I must admit of all the dishes we had all night, this one was a bit less exciting. Of course, yes it is not an exotic choice but the execution could have been better. First the steak was a little thin…maybe ¼ – ½ inch thick. When steak is the star in a dish like this I personally think it should be an impressive cut. And second, it was not cooked as I had ordered…too rare for my taste I tried, but in the end had to send it back to be refired. However, I will say the restaurant owner / manager was so gracious and lovely and apologetic I almost didn’t mind. When service is very good, and it was here thanks to the warm and charming hosts, I don’t mind forgiving these little mistakes.

Dessert was next with Paul ordering the Pastilla au Pistache Chocolat Nior, a warm dark chocolate ganache and pistachios in pastry with pistachio crème Anglaise and vanilla ice cream. We don’t always have dessert…but all bets are off with Paul if there is a dessert option that is chocolate + nuts. This is a Paul-favourite. In this case it did not disappoint with its mix of textures and flavours.

I really had no business ordering dessert…I was stuffed! But since I had already ordered, I felt compelled to eat my 72% Dark Chocolate and Amaretto Mousse with macerated Morello cherries. This was R-I-C-H, but the cherries played the necessary role of cutting the density of the chocolate.

All in all, it was a high quality, well executed meal in a lovely setting…Paul loved the bistro scroll graphics and I appreciated the small touches that made it warm and inviting.  As I mentioned, I am totally forgiving of the steak faux pas given the grace with which it was handled. I do think next time I will try one of the creative interpretations since it seemed these are the real stars of the show.

Don’t miss Le Bistrot, a real treat for out of the ordinary French bistro fare.

Le Bistrot
2 Stadium Walk
#01-03 Singapore Indoor Stadium
Singapore
Telephone: +65 6447 0018

Cote de Boeuf steak for two and other French classics

Thoroughly French bistro style… chalkboard, inlaid marble tables, dark interior, temperature controlled wine room and all. Two-year-old Franck presents a French menu with bistro classics like pigeon, roasted chicken, steaks, beef tartare, grilled tuna and more in Shanghai’s French concession. Overall, it is a classic presentation of classic dishes in the classic style….in a word “solid” but not necessarily original or distinctive. Then again, it’s always a pleasure to have a well executed French meal in Asia….

We started with the Asiette de Charcuterie (160 RMB/ S$33.28 / $23.44 USD), a rather abundant plate of freshly sliced charcuterie from the cured meats at the deli counter on premises. It was wonderfully diverse in arrangement, yet quite simple. There are 2 sizes, so beware…it is big, only order the grande size if you have a large group or don’t plan to eat for a few days.

Then we moved on to the Cote de Boeuf for 2 served with homemade frites, Bearnaise sauce and a green salad (200 RMB/ S$41.58 / $29.30 USD). Again, also abundant…while it says for 2, honestly 3 or 4 people could have (and probably should have) shared this. It was well cooked, but I will say we found the cut to be more fatty than this marbled meat really should be. For me fat usually = flavor, but in this case it was a bit too much.

I must admit Paul was a bit put off by a perceived “snooty attitude,” but I am wondering if said attitude was really just confusion with suboptimal service. It really was less than one would expect given prices charged and the seeming sophistication of presentation.

That said, we would recommend Franck in Shanghai. A couple of tips though:

1. make a booking – it was full even on a Tuesday night
2. ask to sit in the back – the front tables aren’t nearly as cozy as the back ones plus in the front you hear / see the slicer all evening while the charcuterie is prepared (not so romantic or relaxing).

Franck
Ferguson Lane, 376 Wukang Lu,
French Concession
near Hunan Lu
Telephone: +86 21 6437 6465

(This review has two parts as we’ve dined here twice, the first time unfortunately was just with friends and I didn’t have my camera with me. The second visit covers the weekday dinner set menu)

The neon Heineken sign visible from the street coupled with twin oversized yellow umbrellas belied the charming interior and delectable French cuisine found inside. But once past the front door, L’Angelus French Restaurant transported me to the unassuming French countryside. Not the commercialized French experience with wrought iron cafe tables and doilies scattered about, but rather an almost homey atmosphere with walls decked out with vintage French movie posters, tables dressed in simple, white tablecloths, and golden lighting that warmed the room.

While we were debating the wine menu, our professional yet friendly server passed us plates of complimentary Tuna crostinis. We opted for the current special on Veuve Clicquot champagne (88 ++ a bottle – a very good price for a such a special bottle of wine) and turned our sights to the menu. Though L’Angelus is a moderately expensive restaurant focused on fine French cuisine, you don’t have to be a gourmand to appreciate the meals on offer. The simple two-page menu is a well-assembled collection of French standards. The emphasis lies in choice, well-cooked meats with unpretentious presentation.

Once our orders were placed we were treated to an endless supply of bread – wonderfully crusty on the outside and soft in the middle. In seemingly short fashion our mains began to appear from the kitchen starting with my friend’s steak tartar. The tartar was prepared table-side, with the server adding in the Tabasco, lemon and other dressings with direct input from the tastes of the diner. Next out, to the envy of our friends, was my partner and mine’s Chateaubriand (must be ordered for 2). The steak was carved table-side and presented with baked tomato topped with seasoned breadcrumbs. We were offered two sauces for the steak, my personal favorite being the creamy black peppercorn.

As good as the meat was the vegetable sides shone equally as bright. The Potatoes Dauphinoise (a dish famously invented in an attempt for turning the young prince Henry II onto vegetables) tempted even those on diets to indulge. Personally I couldn’t stop eating the spinach with cream.

All at the table were fully satisfied by the end of the main courses, but thankfully a large onslaught of rain outside kept us in the restaurant a bit longer. We ordered the famous Crepes Suzette, molten chocolate cake and various coffees, served with complimentary madeleines and chocolates, and continued to bask in the warm, comfortable atmosphere of the restaurant.

A restaurant of this caliber could easily create a stuffy, pretentious experience, and while L’Angelus is by no means casual, it still manages to put it’s diners at ease and take the higher road of letting the experience of the food speak to the quality of the restaurant.

Dinner Set Menu (Monday – Thursday at 48 SGD) – meal not as smooth as up top.

For starters I went with the Raw Salmon Tartare. A bit heavy on the citrus for my tastes, but a nice start to the meal.

and Joanna chose the Soup of the Day (French Onion who’d have guessed it )

I chose wisely on the mains, ordering a Roasted Spring Chicken in Mushroom Sauce. The chicken was tender and creamy and the noodles were cooked perfectly.

I’m a huge fan of table-side service.

Joanna, however wasn’t so lucky. She ordered the Pan Fried Fish Fillet w/ Tomato and Basil Coulis. The fish was overpoweringly salty. She tried for a few bites to make it through the fish and finally decided best to just stop eating and send it back – not in attempt at free food, but just so the chef knew he had made a misstep. The waiter, uncharacteristically from our last visit, was unhelpful. After taking the dish back he came out and informed us that “that’s how we cook fish here. ” We’ve eaten a lot of fish in a lot of places and well, if that’s how they cook fish at L’Angelus, we WILL NOT be ordering fish here again.  It’s a real pity because Joanna was hoping to find a somewhat healthy menu option at L’Angelus outside of the chicken with cream, potatoes with cream, spinach with cream, soup with cream, etc…

Lastly came desserts. I had to try the “Famous Hot Chocolate Cake”…I mean if it’s famous and chocolate, who am I to resist?

The Dessert Joanna had her eye on wasn’t on offer and was instead presented with this. Honestly I’m not trying to be funny here but we simply couldn’t understand the server’s accent when given our back-up dessert options. We still don’t know what this dessert was supposed to be exactly, but it wasn’t pleasant.

All in all the dinner set menu was a lot of food for a (for Singapore) good price. I think one order could easily be shared by two people, and that’s what we’ll probably do if we visit on a weekday again. I wasn’t able to finish my spring chicken and asked for it to be packed for take away (I know, I know big no-no in a French restaurant). Sadly I wasn’t able to finish it as the server never brought it or our extra order of spinach out to us. I suppose we could have waited longer for the waiter to once again grace us with his presence (we were seated outside) and then ask for the take away again, but at a restaurant of this caliber they should be more on top of things. Sadly the service (and fish) had already left a bad taste in our mouth and we’re not ones to complain so quietly walked home.

So we’re 50/50 here. I can only assume our dinner fiasco was an aberration and not the norm. Thankfully the memories of the Chateaubriand are still clear in my mind, calling me back for another visit.

L’Angelus
No. 85 Club Street
Tel: 6225-6897
Operating Hours: 12.00 p.m. to 2.00 p.m. – Mondays to Fridays & from 7.00 p.m. till late – Mondays to Saturdays. No lunch on Saturdays & are closed on Sundays

A quiet little place, with an endless wine list, tucked away on Duxton Hill

We were searching, maybe a bit too late at 9pm, on a Friday night for a place on Duxton Hill to have dinner. Walking up and down the cobble-stoned hill lined with conservation shop houses, we were surprised to see that most restaurants were quiet. This seemed a bit surprising on a Friday night – and further stumped us on our selection…as when in doubt in Singapore one always follows the crowd as food-loving Singaporeans seem to have an instinctual drive for good food. Maybe we should have left at this point for more crowded environs, but we decided to be adventurous and try The Universal.

We were warmly greeted and seated immediately and I can say that the service was quite good throughout the meal, although to be fair we were one of two tables in the restaurant.  It wasn’t a great start that the bread was stale – hard and chewy in all the wrong places. We were however encouraged by what seemed to be a menu inspired for wine pairings and the wine list overflowed with an endless array of options.

I ordered the Coq Au Vin ($28SGD), chicken braised in red wine sauce with bacon, mushrooms and croutons. The presentation was perfect, but sadly the taste was lacking…overseasoned with salt and a bit dry…overall the dish failed to please.

Paul had the Beef Bourguignon ($30 SGD), beef braised in red wine with vegetables and mashed potatoes. While it was good, it was not great, and Paul just felt like it wasn’t worth its suggested price tag.

Our fellow diners had the Pan Seared Cod ($33 SGD) with coco bean ragout, onion and cream sauce and the Crispy Duck Leg Confit ($34 SGD) with mashed potatoes, glazed vegetables and a red date sauce. While the cod was overcooked, the duck actually was quite good…the skin deliciously crispy (as promised) and the inside moist and succulent as it is when duck is well-prepared.

I wish I could say we loved this place – it was a well designed restaurant with tasteful aesthetics, a long wine list and close to our house! In the final equation it is lovely quiet place with excellent Duck Confit, but overall we just didn’t feel that the rest of the dishes lived up to the promise of the menu descriptions and were not the best value for the price.

The Universal Restaurant and Wine Bar
36 Duxton Hill
Telephone: +65 6325 0188