I don’t know why it’s taken me so long to venture out for a meal in East Coast Park. Maybe it’s because an area with a “skate through” McDonalds (that’s right there’s actually a separate line for roller bladers here) just doesn’t seem like my kind of place. East Coast Park, however, does have a unique vibe and is worth visiting from time to time for a break from the usual expat-heavy city hot spots. And when you do visit the place to stop off at is Coast, the restaurant concept for 1 Twenty Six (of the Rochester Group).

The restaurant is tucked to the side in a serene garden setting just apart from the noisy ice cream shops and skate rental locations.

The area is large and modern looking… a perfect mix of outdoor furniture and foliage… all with a view of the nearby sea. 1 Twenty Six as a whole is more of an entertainment area… serving drinks, live music, and al fresco lounging.

The food comes from Coast. The menu features heavily on light seafood platters that compliment the location and ambiance. Joanna and I were invited to sample the Communal Menu, a unique dining option at 70 SGD per person. Personally I like these mixed buffet, a la carte kind of menus. They’re great in groups and this is the first one I’ve experienced for two, but they managed to vary it up enough to be interesting and also provide a pretty stunning value.

The meal starts off with the Nibble Platter. A massive assortment of seafood and dips.

Highlights for us were (as always) the soft shell crab with chili mayo.

Steamed Vongole clams with garlic and herb crumb.

And potato skins with sour cream and ocean trout caviar.

After that epic “nibble” came the mains. I opted for a seared tuna loin with bell pepper marmalade, crushed potatoes, and tomato coulis. A good dish. I’m actually not the biggest fan of tomato sauces and bell peppers (unlike Joanna), but I’m in the process of growing my appreciation of these flavors by ordering them more (over cream sauces ). This one was solid – the tomatoes weren’t too overpowering and the bell peppers were nicely tamed so as to actually meld with the other flavors on the plate.

Joanna went with the grilled cod fillet with fennel and blood orange salad served with Beaujolais sauce. Fish was perfectly executed. Joanna’s still not down with the fennel completely which left more for me. It was served just how I love it – slightly cooked and caramelized cutting down the anisette flavor somewhat and opening up new flavor profiles.

The mains are also complimented by three communal sides – herbed leaf salad, brocoline with garlic and ginger, and french fries with sea salt.

To close came the Grande Assiette, a selection of petite sized desserts to share. It was massive, with something for everyone on the plate… chocolate, creams, souffle, and more!

The Communal Menu is a feast, and yet oddly I didn’t leave feeling stuffed. It was nice going a bit before sunset when the restaurant was just opening up and dining indoors in the air con room with floor to ceiling windows overlooking the ocean. As the meal progressed the sun set, restaurant filled up, and a talented acoustic cover band started as desserts were served. We left satisfied with the meal and feeling a bit refreshed from the normal Singapore city life. It’s easy for us Ang Moh’s to forget that there’s an East and West and a North to the city offering different vibes, energies, and experiences. When I need to escape Chinatown/Club Street again I’ll be sure to stop by again and chill with a group near the ocean.

Coast @ 1 Twenty Six
902 East Coast Parkway, #01-26
Playground @ Big Splash (Be sure to tell the taxis Big Splash or they won’t know where to go)
Singapore 449874
Tel : 6348-2126

I’m personally in the camp of no supplements. Find the vitamins or supplements you are  told you are lacking and find a real food that gives what you’re missing. 9 times out of 10 when it comes to food science they find down the road that they were wrong with the supplement and you need the whole food / whole diet to get the best effect. Plus why on earth would you take a green tea pill when green tea is so yummy

For a better look at why food science is constantly changing it’s mind when it comes to healthy and harmful ingredients (a lot of the time these are harmful ingredients food science introduced in the first place) and why isolating particular ingredients from foods might not provide all that you’re needing check out In Defense of Food by Michael Pollan.

Paul

An endless array of holistic therapies at this tranquil island spa

I generally have a rule of not visiting the same place twice. I prefer to expand my horizons and challenge myself to see and do new things. However, I recently returned to Kamalaya in Koh Samui. Our more dedicated readers may remember I went to Kamalaya last year to do a detox program. Well, this year when the time came to take a break after a seriously demanding year, I could think of no better place to do it than Kamalaya Koh Samui. In fact, Kamalaya wellness retreat is of such a high standard of excellence that I can foresee returning again and again.

My overall goal on this trip was to reconnect with myself, and bring back some tools to my daily life that would encourage balance and long term wellness. So this time, rather than detox, I chose to do a program called Asian Bliss – a program combining the Asian holistic therapies of Ayurveda, Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM), Reiki, Pranayama (yogic breathing), Naturopathy and various spa treatments including Thai Massage, Herbal Compress Massage, and traditional Asian hand and foot massage. I also added on private yoga instruction – I have a couple of tight, low mobility areas in my body and I wanted to address with specific areas with a yoga routine that I could do at home or in a hotel room.

Also this time, Paul came along with me. Paul chose the Relax & Renew program which was a combination of massages (1-2x / day featuring a variety including Oil Massage, Indian Head Massage, Hand and Foot Massages, Thai massage, etc) and he decided to add on an acupuncture session as well. Paul had just been in the US for a while and was hoping to get back into a healthy pattern and lose a few kilos. The steaks and beers and other heavy foods during his visit to Texas had taken their toll, and he was feeling a bit sluggish.

(If you are not sure which program would benefit you most before booking, naturopathic doctor meets with you upon arrival for a complimentary consult and can help advise and guide you.)

In our opinion, the therapies at Kamalaya are unparalleled. The therapists are of the highest caliber, trained on-site by management. And the specialists, like the TCM doctors and Ayuvedic practitioners are highly skilled. Further, Kamalaya enhances their staff from time to time with visiting practitioners who are best in class in their fields. For example, I saw Dr Song when I was there, a TCM doctor who had recently completed an 8-month sabbatical in China enhancing his TCM knowledge. I was astonished when just by reading my pulse, he was able to tell me about every health concern that I had (stiff and painful shoulder, insomnia, low energy, headaches, etc…). I spent 2 hours with Dr Song where he used acupuncture, moxibustion, and bonesetting (spinal manipulation similar to chiropractic). Even though our appointment was only one hour long, he told me that I was not going anywhere until we addressed my core physical issues. And I slept that night….for the first time in 3 months…soundly, without interruption and woke up with a feeling of refreshment that astonished me. (If you would like to try Tai Chi or Qi Gong, Dr. Song also teaches these at Kamalaya.)

Similarly, the Ayurvedic therapies are stunningly good. I think my hands down, favorite treatment at Kamalaya is the Indian Head Massage – on both visits, I enjoyed this, and myself and other guests all consistently rave about it. And now it is Paul’s favorite too…he was so blissed out that over lunch we sat quietly mesmerized by the sea and saying very little…just enjoying a deep sense of ultimate relaxation. Also, I tried Shirodara (a massage where warm oil drips onto the forehead continuously) and Royal Ayurvedic Massage. The Avuryedic treatments were consistently high calibre with an intuitive and experienced therapist who adeptly reads the body and adjusts the treatment to uniquely fit the individual.

Beyond the programs themselves, we enjoyed yoga and pilates classes, the steam cavern and the fantastic spa cuisine at Kamalaya. I don’t know how they manage to do it, but the food is absolutely and unequivocally delicious. They manage to keep it super healthy (with an emphasis on high quality proteins like fish and chicken, vegetables, nuts and seeds, and healthy, flavorful grains) while not losing any flavor.

The result is that every meal is thoroughly satisfying without feeling like one is sacrificing. And beyond the food itself, meals are served in a tranquil environment overlooking the hills of Kamalaya and the sea, so not only is the body nourished, the view itself provides a deep sense of serenity at mealtime.

For those of you who might want to splurge, there is that option as well with chocolate soufflés, wine and more available. Kamalaya is not about deprivation.

While all of this might sound like what one would expect for a spa of this caliber, there is something special about Kamalaya… a feeling that is ephemeral yet consistently present. Maybe it is because everyone that works on site is trained to level 1 in Reiki, or maybe it is because the spa itself is built around an old monks cave.

Its hard to put one’s finger on it, but this is clearly a magical place in which to take a step back from the demands of the world and take on a unique wellness journey and reconnect with oneself. It’s no wonder that they have recently been awarded Best Wellness Retreat by Spa Asia Crystal Awards and Best Destination Spa by Asia Spa Baccarat Awards.

After a week at Kamalaya, we felt renewed and rejuvenated…clear of mind and pure of body. Paul lost a few kilos (without actually being on a weight-loss program) and was decidedly chilled out. I was sleeping soundly and that nasty, persistent pain in my shoulder was gone. But not only that, we also brought back many tools to help us make the feeling long lasting. I have finally made the switch from coffee to green tea. We are cooking more at home, inspired by Kamalaya’s cuisine. I have embarked on a 6-day a week exercise program with a focus on yoga. I have vowed to make massage a weekly part of my routine and so far, I have managed to keep this vow. Sure it is only January (you might skeptically observe), but I am realizing more and more that health is a choice…something I learned at Kamalaya. And as Karina Stewart, one of the founders says, “we can either take a proactive role with regard to our own conditions or take the consequences of living a life of lower quality.”

If you are considering a spa or wellness retreat we would, without hesitation, recommend Kamalaya Koh Samui. Whether you want to Detox, try the Ideal Weight Program or simply relax was Paul did with the Relax & Renew program, Kamalaya is treat for yourself not to be missed.

Kamalaya Koh Samui
102/9 Moo 3, Laem Set Road, Na-Muang
Koh Samui, Suratthani 84140 Thailand
Telephone: +66 (0) 77 429 800
Fax: +66 (0) 77 429 899

A journalist at The Atlantic disagrees. I found her article way off the mark… as if she missed the point completely (like complaining there were no touchdowns at a baseball game). She seems to insist that manual labor teaches us nothing and a connection to our food, healthy diet, and return to the family table  isn’t as valuable as studying towards standardized testing.

Thankfully someone more articulate than I wrote a great response on Civil Eats. Kurt Michael Friese eloquently answers and provides the correct window (I feel) through which to view this argument.

What do you think? Is sustainability a silly trend? Should we keep pumping processed corn products, colas, and fried foods into our ever expanding youth? Where do you line up in this debate? Could something like this program work in Asia?

The Atlantic Article on Alice Waters
Civil Eats’ Response

Paul

Royal Thai Cuisine from the recipes of the Sukhothai Palace kitchen

Paul had been telling me about this place for ages…the former soap opera star owner and the recipes from the Sukhothai Palace. He raved about the pure and traditional preparation and presentation of Thai food, the gracious service and the elegant host. I really wanted to go, but it seemed every time we had it planned something would happen…rain, travel, stuck at work, etc. Finally the day came and miraculously nothing prevented our visit to Thanying. After such anticipation, would it live up to expectations?

Since 1986 Thanying has been presenting Royal Thai Cuisine in Bangkok… a long time for a restaurant in a city where the ‘flavour of the month’ is not just an expression but a reality.

We perused the menu and settled on our favourites. I was interested in making the comparison with the open-air place I normally ate at on Sukhumvit Soi 18, P Kitchen, where the dishes are approximately 85 baht. Would this be better than street food and / or different because it was “royal”?

We ordered (or shall I say over-ordered) 6 dishes. Starting with Som Tum Thai (100 THB / S$4.20 / $3 USD), a green papaya salad and Tom Kha Gai (120 THB / S$5 / $3.60 USD), a chicken soup with coconut milk broth scented with galangal, lemongrass and lime. Two of our all-time-favourite Thai dishes that were in fact absolutely perfect.

Next we moved on to the Yam Pla Dook Foo (150 THB / S$6.30 / $4.50 USD), crispy, fluffy catfish with a spicy and tangy salad of green mango. I will admit here, I have had better. This is a tough dish though and a lot of places get this wrong. The reason why is that frying the catfish only happens 1 day a week because the frying process is so smoky and overwhelming. The result is that if you don’t know what day the restaurant you are visiting actually makes Yam Pla Dook Foo, then you run the risk of getting a slighty soft, slightly stale catfish. I love this dish so much that stale isn’t bad….but to have it at its height of perfection? Well that is something else entirely.

We also tried the Gai Hor Bai Toey (140 THB / S$5.90 / $4.20 USD), deep fried chicken in pandan leaf as well as the Goong Narng Kra Prao Grob, (140 THB / S$5.90 / $4.20 USD), prawns with basil and chilies. Both dishes were flawless in both presentation and execution with the stunning Thai flavour profiles we adore. Definitely hits.

But the real test, and what I was looking most forward to, was my single most favourite dish…Kra Prao Moo (180 THB / S$7.54 / $5.40 USD), minced pork with whole basil leaves and chilies. OK – homerun. A total winner. This spicy dish is my version of comfort food and Thanying’s version succeeded in presenting me with a perfect bite in every spoonful.

At Thanying, the food is thoroughly delicious and this combined with the ambiance of the old Thai house setting, plus the attentive wait staff who have worked here for generations make Thanying a real destination for a slightly more upscale Thai dining experience when in Bangkok. It’s truly a good value compared to a lot of so-called “fancy” Thai restaurants. Thanying is a must do for those looking for a special Thai restaurant experience.

Thanying
10 Thanon Pramuan (Pramuan St.), off Silom Rd.
between Silom 17 and 19
Bangkok, Thailand
Telephone: +66 (0) 2236 4361

This weeks Epicurean Concept is relatively simple, but one that we were curious about and so thought maybe others were as well. Often at restaurants I’ll see lamb dishes on the menu, but other times mutton dishes. I wondered if there was really a difference or if it was a restaurant’s way of dressing up or down a dish through verbal trickery. Answer after the jump.

It’s actually not (or at least shouldn’t be) verbal trickery on the part of the restaurant.

Lamb is a sheep less than one year old, typically slaughtered between the ages of four and twelve months. This meat is more pinkish in color and has a large amount of white fat surrounding the meat. The lamb should have a firm texture, but still be tender.

Mutton is any sheep that’s older than one year…. or to be really precise it’s a “a female (ewe) or castrated male (wether) sheep having more than two permanent incisors in wear” (wikipedia). The older meat of mutton can be a bit gamier and tougher if not prepared correctly, hence the limited usage of it in the states. Mutton is undergoing a huge comeback as of late though (as are most cheaper / forgotten meats these days).

Hogget is another variety you might hear about. Hogget is sometimes used interchangeably for Mutton but it’s slightly different – “a young male sheep or maiden ewe having no more than two permanent incisors in wear” (again Wikipedia).

Careful in the US though. Any sheep under two years of age can be legally labeled and sold as lamb. So that could also account for someone tasting lamb and finding it too gamey…maybe it is, or maybe they were slipped some 23 month old “lamb” meat.

So there you go. If you dislike the gamier (sometimes it reminds me of bleu cheese) taste of Mutton, maybe look for lamb. These days chef’s are doing some creative things with mutton and I think it’s worth the risk if you see it on a menu…they know the negative associations folks have with the meat these days, so to include it on a menu says they think it’s worth it (or are getting it cheap)

This week’s Epicurean Concept is the current “in thing” for hipsters shopping at overpriced delis and cutting edge restaurants… and oddly enough comfort food for the poor and downtrodden – Offal.

Definition from the folks at Merriam-Webster:
of·fal
Pronunciation: ?o?-f?l, ?ä-
Function: noun
Etymology: Middle English, from of off + fall
Date: 14th century

And left Japan kicking and screaming…

The first time I traveled to Hong Kong, I fell in love. I had an inexplicable affinity for the place, and on subsequent trips, discovered many new parts that ultimately led to Hong Kong’s classification as my favorite city in Asia. Now I think Tokyo has equally captivated me, if not possibly surpassing Hong Kong in my personal ranking…in fact when my travels came to an end, I honest to goodness did not want to leave! What is it that makes Tokyo so special?

Tokyo is weird and wonderful all at the same time. There are things as Westerners, we will probably never understand about this magical place. Japanese culture is built upon so many rigorous customs, and then there is micro-culture of Tokyo itself – crazy workaholics, hard core drinkers, the fetishizing of all things cute, an obsessive attention to detail, J-pop and cos play dressers, wacky themed restaurants and the most inventive fashion I have ever seen. It is both the things I can see and understand and those that I cannot whose enigma has so captivated me.

Every strange thing you have ever heard about Tokyo is most likely true. And then of course there are the secrets of Tokyo that one has to experience on one’s own. Here are a few of my own personal highlights and observations:

The city that TRULY never sleeps
NY ain’t got nothin’ on Tokyo…this is a 24 hour city. The area of Roppongi in particular has a Mardi Gras anything-goes feel, with gaijin (foreigners) and local revellers mixing and mingling and kicking it off until dawn. In fact because taxis are sooo expensive, many folks stay out all night purposely, because the metro shuts down at 12midnight. And really when there is so much to see and do in this crazy place, who has the willpower to make a timed exit at 11:30pm?  For those who don’t want to booze until dawn, there are countless coffee shops and bookstores open late, like the Kinokuniya in Shinjuku made famous by Haruki Murikami’s books, which by the way has the widest selection of English language books in Tokyo.  Or the world famous quirky, weird, wild and naughty Don Quixote store – where they sell everything from sex toys to shampoo and Hello Kitty paraphernalia to ice cream.

If you are still not ready for bed, have a sunrise sushi breakfast at Tsukiji fish market. My god, I am exhausted just thinking about all one can do in this place – and the energy is totally addictive. Remember, you can always sleep when you travel back to your home country. Now, how the locals do it day in and day out is another question…

Obsessively detail focused
I had heard about the Japanese view on quality. During my MBA studies, we studied the post-WWII quality movement inspired by W. Edwards Demming who revolutionized manufacturing processes, such that there was rolling impact on worldwide production in nearly every industry. But honestly I had no idea this extended to every (pause) single (pause) thing (pause) that the Japanese do – it is in fact inherent in the culture. The belief being that everything that is worth undertaking, is also worth elevating to perfection. Even buying a Global knife at Takashimaya was an example of this, with the item in question being so carefully handled and wrapped that is was like a present to myself when I unwrapped it later at home. Being a perfectionist myself, I was inspired – the level of execution was even beyond my slightly particular expectations. In a word…is heaven!

Wildly extreme fashion
I totally admire the Japanese fashion aesthetic and could sit in Shibuya and people watch for the rest of my life. Funky, cool, street style is the norm here – an average outfit pairs unlikely layered combinations and can consist of 3 t-shirts custom-cut at home to have clever openings to showcase the one underneath, topped off by a floral vest and then a denim mini skirt over black leggings with Converse All Stars and Hello Kitty socks ….topped off with a plaid hat. And somehow it works. And then there are the more niche looks – like the Gothic Lolita, Cosplay and J-Pop looks. If you really want to get an eyeful, go to the bridge at Yoyogi Park on Sundays to see the Cosplay boys and girls in their glory. I mean seriously, for someone like myself who trends more toward basic black and the sleek silhouettes of New York fashion, I found it absolutely fascinating. In fact, I flirted with the idea of mini skirts with leggings and Converse when I got back home, but:

1. it is very hot here in Singapore
2. I suspect I might be pushing the age appropriate boundary on that look
3. somehow outside of Tokyo, it just doesn’t seem to make sense.

Food as an art form
Part and parcel of the attention to detail above, Japanese food and eating is elevated to an art form. They say that to master the making of soba noodles takes a lifetime. And in well known sushi places, apprentices can spend 2 years just forming the rice….before they even get to touch the fish.  And this culinary perfection holds not only for Japanese food, but also for Western as well. I had a stunningly good apple pie in Kichijoji that makes my mouth water when I think about it – somehow they actually made it better! And my memories of the ethereally light and crispy Tonkatsu at Maisen bring tears to my eyes. The Yakitori….well,  I could eat Yakitori every day until I die and not only would this not be a sacrifice, it would be a terrific honor. No detail is spared in the preparation and execution of meals – and while sometimes this means mealtimes take a bit longer than one expects, it is totally worth the wait.

Heated toilets and other bathroom idiosyncrasies
And in the spirit of making everything better, comes the Japanese bathroom. This may be rather indelicate, but I never enjoyed the bathroom so much as I did in Japan. For starters, toilet seats are heated – probably doesn’t sound so spectacular….until you try it yourself. And the side of the ubiquitous Toto toilet comes equipped with a control panel, fortunately with instructions as icons, so one can decide which….umm…..area to wash and at which water pressure and temperature. Peculiar to Japanese culture, it is inappropriate and embarrassing for others to hear your intimate going-ons, and so there is also a button to play music or to give a flushing sound effect. In my company’s Tokyo office, there is actually the sound of birds chirping…because imagine the scandal if a co-worker hears you tinkle. Further, in many public toilets they have removed the question of “to touch or not to touch” with fully automated soap dispensers releasing warmed, creamy soap already lathered, motion sensing water faucets and super high speed drying machines (don’t linger too long, it can burn). It’s just…so…civilized.

The cute fetish, “kawaii”, and Hello Kitty
I am of the practical sort. I never understood the allure of Hello Kitty – it always seemed a bit juvenile and frivolous. I couldn’t make out why grown women (and some men) would have Hello Kitty plush toys or Pokeman waffle irons. But something in Japanese culture makes it indescribably attractive and somewhat addictive. This fetishizing of cute, or “kawaii” in Japanese (pronounced like Hawaii with a “k”) is oddly and magnetically attracting. Once the cute bug bites it’s over! You too will be buying Pikachu socks and Hello Kitty cell phone charms. And why on earth would you buy a plain writing pen when you can have an endlessly entertaining pink pen with a creature charm on top. When you really think about it, there is unlimited potential for cute-i-fying everything. And believe you me, this opportunity is not lost on the Japanese. If you are in Tokyo, you must go to Kiddyland in the oh so chic shopping area of Omotesando (like NYC’s Fifth Avenue). We somehow lost 2 hours in this emporium of cuteness, with me getting stuck on the Hello Kitty floor. If you cannot make it to Tokyo, then check out these websites dedicated to cataloging Hello Kitty items, House of Kitty,  and Kitty Hell. It’s a slippery slope – consider yourself warned!

Smoking is the national sport
While I don’t love this about Tokyo, I do find it rather amusing. Everyone here smokes. I am nearly certain that citizenship is conditional based on smoking status. And then ironic thing about the Japanese smoking culture is that just like everything else, they are super rigorous about how this is done. First, smoking is preferred indoors! That’s right, just about every place you go will allow smoking inside. Whereas smoking outside is frowned upon and limited to very tiny and hard to find smoking areas where Japanese salarymen jockey for the position closest to the refuse bin. The end result is the entire indoors of Tokyo smells faintly like an ashtray. Weird, huh?

A life lived outside the home – Cat Cafés, Izakayas and more
Tokyo apartments are exceedingly tiny. And so really for many, they serve the barest of functions…mostly for sleeping. Living happens outside the home – at bars, restaurants, tea houses, etc – with one returning home very late in the day (if at all). Even the usual comforts of home are outsourced as evidenced by the phenomena of cat cafes – where people go to relax and pet kitties, since they cannot accommodate pets in their own flats. Izakayas are in fact often homes away from home…”izakaya” meaning “be here and drink” in Japanese…it’s just a place where people hang out and while away the hours before returning home. It’s not exactly a restaurant, it’s not exactly a bar, it’s kind of both merging into a convivial place to go alone or gather with friends…have a drink, a snack, a smoke before going home to bed.

The Tokyo Metro & Bullet Trains
Taxis are crazy expensive. In fact, to take a taxi from the airport into downtown Shibuya, you would spend about $250 USD. And in town the meter starts at $7 USD and spirals up quite quickly. At the end of the day, the train is really your only option for affordable travel around town. So it’s rather lucky then that it goes damn near everywhere. I have never seen a more extensive network…ever. It makes New York or London look infinitesimally small in scale. And then there are the bullet trains – the 300km / hr (185 mph) high speed lines that cover greater Japan, from end to end. We took the Shinkansen bullet train from Tokyo to Kyoto – easy peasy, 2.5 hours later you’re in Kyoto sipping sake. And I am pretty sure if it is not on the train line, it is not worth going to. While it is a little intimidating the first time out, the automated systems are actually quite easy to use thanks to an English language interface. So don’t get overwhelmed….take a deep breath, refer to your map, and really what’s the worst that can happen?

Technology & Anime Madness
Japan remains at the cutting edge of technology with the 3^rd largest R&D expenditure in the world. Since 2006, you would have noticed commuters on the Tokyo Metro watching TV on their mobile phones on the way to work. Why this has not infiltrated TV-loving America, I have no idea. The area of Akihabara in particular is world famous for its mega-electronics stores with endless varieties of cameras, computers and tech gadgets. I am sad to say the days of cheap prices on these are gone though – while not overpriced, their prices reflect the global economy we live in today. You the best deal on a digital camera or computer? Buy it in the US – no kidding, the world’s best prices are in America, where none of this is actually made…because the consumer buying population is larger, the US can garner the most competitive wholesale prices.

But what is distinctive and also in the Akihabara area are anime and manga stuffs. The instantly recognizable large heads and big eyes of anime characters spill out onto the streets. Anime specifically is an abbreviation for “animation” but it has over time become a subculture referencing a certain type of TV, video game, movie, etc that is also usually very cute in nature. Manga on the other hand is a comic book form of cartoon characters. While these books can take on many themes, the most popular are science fiction and hero stories. Further, the cartoon comic format has extended into well, umm, less dignified forms known as “hentai.” Pornographic hentai cartoons are extremely popular and also explain the influx of teenage boys to the Akihabara area after school every day.  Someone said you could be arrested in the US for the sorts of things you can see in Akihabara, and I am pretty sure they are right.

Vending machines
No doubt you’ve heard about the preponderance of vending machines in Japan – its true. The most obvious uses are drinks and cigarettes – Paul was beyond words when he found both Mountain Dew and Dr Pepper in vending machines in Tokyo (neither of which favorite soda we have seen elsewhere in Asia).

But what was more surprising were vending machines selling hot meals like bowls of noodles, a machine selling umbrellas at the Tokyo Dome, another selling shirts and neckties (presumably for those who have stayed out all night, but still have to go to work), machines for charging your cell phone in 7 Eleven stores, another selling batteries or even flowers to take home to the wife (possibly also for the guy who stayed out all night …the list goes on and on.

Prepare to open your wallet (and keep it open)
OK, it’s true. Japan is crazy expensive. I asked our friend Troy about where lower income people live in Tokyo and he responded quickly that there really aren’t any – most of the average population of Tokyo is what we would call “middle class” or “upper middle class.” The average price of a mobile phone is about $500 USD, yet everyone seems to have them.

We’ve already talked about taxis where the meter starts at $7 USD. It’s nearly impossible to have a restaurant meal for less than $30 USD per person – and this is the low end. And a glass of wine will set you back about $20 USD.

But somehow I don’t mind paying for such perfection.

And so much more….and even after all these observations and experiences, somehow I know I have only scratched the surface of Tokyo and Japanese culture. And yet I am totally, completely hooked.

Haiku to Japan:
All things Japanese
From cute to toilet to nosh
Somehow are better

Are healthy and delicious oxymorons?

I imagine I am not alone in my struggle. I love food and eating out. I am always thinking about, planning and strategizing my next meal – it’s part passion…and maybe part obsession. And while I would like to piously assert that I truly love and crave fruit and veggies, if I am honest, these are never as top of mind for me as meats, breads, pastas and cheeses….and of course dessert!

But I am open minded and always seeking to grow, learn and change for the better. I have enjoyed some incredibly delicious, healthy meals – but at times have struggled to get the same results in my own kitchen (aside from the obvious simple solutions of grilled fish, chicken and veggies). And I always secretly suspect there is maybe more butter or cream in recipes that restaurants who bill something as “healthy” or “light” let on.

However, at Kamalaya in Koh Samui, Thailand,  I did a detox program late last year and was stunned by the deliciousness of the ever-so-healthy detox menu. The flavor profiles were layered stunningly and the results were truly sophisticated and satisfying which inspired me to look beyond my simple grilled approach. (I hear these guys are coming out with a cookbook this year, I keep checking the website to see if it is out yet.)
Kamalaya Recipes

Since my time at Kamalaya, I began a search for healthier options. I share with you some of the great resources and results from my search that also might inspire and benefit you.

Recipes from people who really know food
The New York Times, bastion of journalism, and world renowned for excellent international culinary reportage presents a healthy recipes compendium. In other words, this is food from demanding New Yorkers who wouldn’t accept anything less than the very best. What I like about best about this site is the simple search function…you can search by ingredient, e.g. eggs, bagged spinach, avocado, etc…so you can focus on ingredients you know you like and enjoy – or if you’re feeling frisky, you can experiment with new grains or new types of seafood.
NY Times Healthy Food

Healthy indulgences and recipe remakes
I grew up in the Southern part of the US and the regional food of that area is decidedly rich and unhealthy…my taste buds naturally crave macaroni and cheese, pulled pork and buttermilk biscuits. Cooking Light is an American magazine dedicated to presenting a healthy yet achievable lifestyle – emphasis on this last point “achievable.” I remember one past issue whose cover story was something like “Yes to cream! How to find room for this rich dairy in your healthy diet.” Cooking Light also does great recipe remakes, e.g. a healthier version of mac and cheese or potato salad that makes you forget you are eating light. The magazine is well presented, the cookbooks are an essential in my kitchen, and if neither of these is accessible to you, the website is excellent – I particularly enjoy using the Kitchen Assistant which provides the all-important recipe search function. I have served dishes from this to guests who later raved about the meal.
Cooking Light

Everything from traditional comfort foods to global cuisine
Epicurious from Conde Nast publishing (who publishes Gourmet and Bon Appetit magazines), presents a vast array of all food, wine and cooking tips on this enormously deep and rich website. Check out the section on Nutritious dishes which offers lots of surprisingly exciting dishes – I often get lost in the clever flavour combinations and seasonal menus, making me forget I am watching what I eat. And this is really the point isn’t it?
Epicurious

If you have any references, cookbooks, magazines or websites you would recommend, please do write in and let me know. I personally would love to see more healthy remakes of Asian dishes. Any suggestions?

Happy and healthy eating,
Joanna

3 days in French colonial India by the sea

If any of you have read the Life of Pi, you will remember Pondicherry as the hometown of the main character, Pi, the zookeeper’s son. Well there is no longer a zoo in Pondicherry, there is still plenty to see and do in this quaint French colonial seaside village in South India.

Despite being the main tourist destination in this part of South India, Pondicherry remains a sleepy little village. Things happen in their own time here…”hurry” most definitely is not part of the local vernacular. In part probably because of the heat and also because in this part of the world things are done the way they have always been done…old traditional ways and values are held in high esteem among the locals.

In Pondicherry there are two very distinct sides of town – Tamil Town also known as “Ville Noire” or Black Town and the French Quarter known as “Ville Blanc” or White Town. The dividing line being a main thoroughfare called Quai d’Gingy. Tamil Town is more local and leaves one with no doubt that they are in India…cramped streets teeming with people, strong smells of food stalls and shouts of hawkers selling anything and everything from street carts. The French Quarter has that unique feeling of French colonial towns in Asia…broad boulevards, tall leafy trees and stately residences and buildings with an unmistakable air of quiet elegance. Both sides can be explored thoroughly in a few days.

Here are our top recommendations on things to see, do and eat in Pondicherry.

Tamil Town

• Don’t miss the Sunday Market. Lots of local goods are on offer here, but for us it wasn’t as much the shopping as it was the sheer spectacle of local life…haggling over used books, buying hammers at the “hardware store” consisting of tools scattered across a tarpaulin on the street.
• Shop at Casablanca Department Store, 165 Mission Street. Several floors of Indian wares…from tunics and pottery to sandals and local leather handbags. We went for a quick visit and emerged 3 hours later. Try a blended iced mint tea at the café to refresh between floors. I bought a linen, hand-embroidered tunic dress for 990 Rupees ($20 USD / $30 SGD) and a silky, soft cotton duvet cover for 1490 Rupees ($30 USD / $45 SGD).
• Have lunch on the roof at Hotel Aristo, Nehru Street. Don’t be put off by the dodgy exterior, there is some seriously delicious Indian food here .Try the walnut chicken and lentil dahl. Special tea (beer) is available and served discreetly in teapots. Main dishes 80-150 Rupees ($1.50 – 3 USD / $2.50 – 5 SGD).

French Quarter

• The best thing to do in this part of town is wander the wide boulevards and pop in the various little shops and cafes. We do however have some favorites though…
• Shop at the gift shop of the Hotel De Orient for carefully chosen treasures. We bought ivory handled cheese knives for a song as well as exotic colored-glass candle holders.
• While we had many meals, our favorites were at Rendezvous at 30 Rue Suffren, where the menu is mostly French and Indian (with some Chinese!)… but really, when in India why not have delicious Indian food. We also recommend kashi ki aasha at 23 Rue Surcouf – go to the rooftop restaurant for lunch….a relaxing vibe and yummy local and European foods (including pastries) can be found at this boutique shop-colonial house-café.
• Shop at Fab-India, 59 Rue Suffren, for all manner of Indian textiles. You can find everything here from tunics and trousers to tablecloths and carpets. I bought a gorgeous chain-stitched, handmade wool Dhurrie carpet for 1900 Rupees ($69 USD / $102 SGD) along with a cotton crinkle scarf with hand-painted gold detailing for 395 Rupees ($8 USD / $12 SGD).

Seaside

• On Goubert Street by the sea, the main event is people watching on the promenade. Grab a seat on the bench and watch Indian life stroll by. Watch children climb sculptures and husbands and wives separate by gender to gossip in small groups. Rickshaws scurry past to drop off visitors, while a brass band plays. From families to young groups of teenagers to yogis….one sees it all at sunset in the festival atmosphere by the sea in Pondicherry.
• Eat at the Lighthouse restaurant at the top of the Promenade Hotel. The restaurant has a very international atmosphere We enjoyed the tandoori seafood sharing platter and tandoori vegetables with a couple of glasses of French wine for 1900 Rupees ($38 USD / $57 SGD) for 2 people. Actually an extravagant price by Indian standards but worth dining rooftop with the sea breeze.

If you have time for a day trip, head to….

• The communal settlement of Auroville. An international community seeking spiritual enlightenment where people come from all over the world seeking a life of peace and harmony, Honestly it is a bit of a strange place to visit…the highlight being an astonishing spherical golden structure oddly resembling a golf ball where residents go to find silence. But if you have time, it is an interesting curiosity.

Keep in mind…

• There is little to no “nightlife” in Pondicherry. Most restaurants / bars close at 11pm and it is not unusual for restaurant not to serve alcohol at all.
• This is conservative South India….even cropped pants and v-necked tops can be seen as racy attire, so unless you crave raised eyebrows and (sometimes aggressive) male attention ladies, please dress appropriately.

On hotels….
We chose to stay in the French Quarter in a hotel called Le Dupliex. In the 18th century, Le Dupliex served as the home of the Mayor on Pondicherry and remains today rather stately and elegant in its presentation. The hotel is so lovely – which is why it pains me to have to share with you that the service is rather lacking. Our reservation was botched despite repeated confirmations (confirmed several times because of the lack of confidence instilled during the reservation process – painful phone calls and nary an email to the reservation email address ever returned). Our room, while refined and comfortable, sprouted a leak in the bathroom that seemingly could not be repaired despite multiple visits over multiple days from the handyman. The restaurant is cute and cozy in a tree-lined courtyard with graceful touches, but we repeatedly had to track down our servers even though at times we were the only diners in the restaurant and service staff was forgetful delivering partial orders that required a significant amount of follow-up. And finally the front desk / concierge staff proved itself to be extremely limited in its ability to provide any advice on dining, activities or even helping us with directions to locations that we already had the addresses to. With all that said, it is still the most elegant address in town, so if booking at this hotel just come prepared to “wing it” and expect no local support. Once a member of the distinctive Relais & Chateaux collection of luxury hotels, Le Dupliex no longer delivers the quality to support its presence in the collection. I think next time, I will try the Hotel De Orient run by the Neemrana group – while perhaps not quite as elegant, we have heard the service is much better.

Le Dupliex
5 Caserne St.
Pondicherry India
Ph: +91 413 2226999/2226001-5
Fax: +91 413 2335278
http://www.ledupleix.com
7000 Rupees / night ($141 USD / $210 SGD)

Hotel De Orient
17 Rue Romain Rolland
Pondicherry, India
+91 413 2343067
www.neemranahotels.com
similarly priced to Le Dupliex