It’s safe to say I’m not the biggest fan of Dempsey Hill. On my better meals at the former army barracks location I’ve simply been underwhelmed… on others I’ve felt outright ripped off. What was once an unique escape in Singapore has become a “destination”… meaning the now crazy high rent prices result in overpriced meals compounded with an expensive cab ride. This has taken away any potential value for most locations for me. So I set off for a Saturday night meet-up with some friends at Contemporary Melting Pot and Bar (CMPB here on out) with some reluctance. Thankfully I was pleasantly surprised.

Upon arrival we knew that we had at least selected the trendy place for the evening. While many of the neighboring bars and restaurants sat empty, the outdoor dining areas at CMPB were almost completely full. The servers were quick to respond to our changes in seating as we had added a few extra to our group…. that might sound simple but I’ve seen discussion on adding another table to the party take as long as 10-15 minutes in some locations in Singapore

We sat down and purused the drink menu. Unsurprisingly, since it’s billed also as a bar, there was an extensive drink and wine menu. There were decent affordable wines by the bottle and big surprise for Dempsey… bottles of beers on special for LESS than 10 SGD!

The menu is simple and focused with a nice balance between hearty main courses and lighter options for those coming more for the bar. The rest of our group had yet to arrive so we ordered up a set of the calamari rings. The batter was lighter than expected allowing the calamari flavor to come through.

I’m still on my burger hunt so had to sample the burgers. There were only two listed but it was a hard choice for me this night as there were two great sounding options. CMPB features a Wagyu burger and a Foie Gras Burger! Both sounded excellent and again I was surprised to see lower than average prices on menu items. Normally a Wagyu burger (why must they all serve Wagyu burgers on Dempsey… can no one come up with anything unique?) on Dempsey lists out at 30 SGD at least. This one was only 26…. not a great deal different in price, but certainly better than others in the area. Two of us had the burger that night. The burger was in fact good… but lacking in consistency in preparation. Part of the selling point to me were the caramelized onions. I hate, loathe, despise raw onions on burgers. Judge for yourself if my onions were “caramelized”. I thought maybe the pressures were just too much since they were recently open and it was middle of rush on a Saturday night, but my late ordering friend received his burger with one side half caramelized and the other side raw. So a bit of sloppiness in the kitchen ruined what could have been a truly memorable burger night for me… oh well.

Joanna went with the Tackle of the Day (25 SGD)…. which we were assured was truly a fresh fish for the day and not just trying to dump old fish stock (have to be careful with fish specials). To her great delight it was grilled Salmon with summer veggies and potato croquette. The fish was well cooked and all the extras on the plate were executed nicely.

Another at the table ordered the Spaghetti Aglio Olio (a steal at 12 dollars) and was very happy with their choice.

Also enjoyable was the Truffle Wild Mushroom Fettucini. The truffle in the name is a bit of a misdirection as it’s just truffle oil (not going to get real truffles in a pasta on Dempsey for 16 SGD) but the wild mushrooms and pasta were decent enough on their own.

Of note for the CMPB to me were the salads. Both people who ordered salads were happy with their choices as the salads were fresh and plentiful… a surprise for a bar menu. The Proscuito & Tomato Salad (14 SGD) was a bit predictable… but still nice and well executed.

The Jumbo Lump Crab Salad with Tropical Fruits (16 SGD) was a bit more adventurous both in ingredients and presentation. On a side note, that martini glass is HUGE (though without something to provide perspective it seems like a regular martini glass). I would love to be have a mixed drink served up to me in that someday!

All in all we had a pleasant evening. I was a bit disappointed in the quality control of the kitchen personally, but to be fair I am attending dinners with a more critical eye than most…but I would consider raw onions a big let down and signs of inexperience at the pass. Having said that, everyone else enjoyed themselves, the vibe, and the cheaper than average (for Dempsey) drinks and food. For those that have been to Spruce I would say it’s a similar concept though not as refined as Spruce. Of all the places I’ve been to on Dempsey, though, I can actually see myself returning here in the future.

Contemporary Melting Pot & Bar
Block 7 Dempsey Hill
Singapore

Healthy Spa Recipes from our favourite holistic spa

As part of our Health & Wellness 2010 Series

From the age of 5, Kai had a passion for cooking. He started early with his first job in the kitchen at an Austrian ski resort at the age of 16 and from there moved on to London where he worked at Mossimann’s who pioneered healthier cooking through Cuisine Naturelle, healthy foods which do not sacrifice on taste. From there, Kai went to Thailand in 2006 to take the position as Executive chef at Kamalaya. Evolving his approach to healthy cuisine by blending it with Thai culinary traditions, Kai worked with Kamalaya to develop a healthy, spa cuisine menu that is shockingly good and good for you.

To make the spa cuisine that Kamalays guests rave about, Kai focuses on building flavours through curry pastes and herbs rather than butter. And he uses all of the herb when cooking. For example, the stem and root of the coriander it is much more potent that the leaves of the herb. Plus fresh herbs have great antioxidant benefits. Nuts and seeds and high fiber grains are a dominant part of Kai’s cuisine along with high quality proteins like fish, chicken and legumes. He also prefers to use virgin coconut oil when cooking at high heat – it has a higher smoking point, so doesn’t break down as quickly. In most tropical coastal areas, like that of Koh Samui, this is the oil that locals use (instead of corn oil) – if you have ever been to Thailand, you will see they are all quite thin and healthy. When cooking at low heat he likes to use sesame oil or olive oil.

Kai shared with us some of Kamalaya’s recipes (a couple of my personal favourites), for you to try at home.

Stir Fried Glass Noodles (Serves 2)
Ingredients:
Glass noodles (soaked for 2 hours) 120g
Carrot, cut into thin half moons 40g
Cauliflower, cut into bite size florets 50g
Broccoli, cut into bite size florets 50g
Snow peas 30g
Asparagus, cut into 3cm sticks 30g
Shitake mushrooms, whole 20g
Cabbage, shredded 20g
Carrot, shredded 20g
Shallots 10g
Lemongrass, sliced very fine 5g
Ginger, chopped very fine 5g
Spring onions, sliced very fine 5g
Sesame oil 5ml
Tamarind juice 30ml
Bean sprouts 60g
Sesame seeds 10g
Sea salt Dash
Coriander leaf (garnish) 5g
Garlic 3g

Instructions:
Heat the sesame oil in a wok or frying pan over medium heat. Add the lemongrass, ginger and shallots and sauté for 15 seconds. Next, add the carrot, cauliflower, broccoli, snow peas, asparagus and shitake mushrooms. Stir for another 15 seconds before adding the drained noodles, tamarind juice and a dash of sea salt .Keep stirring (or it will stick to the pan) until heated through, this should take about 30 seconds. Just before you remove the pan from the heat stir in the spring onions, bean sprouts and sesame seeds. Place in the center of a plate and garmish with coriander.

Poached Sea Bass with Soya and Thai Seafood Sauce (Serves 2)
Ingredients:
Sea bass filet, 2 filets 320g
Ginger 30g
Celery  30g
Spring Onion 30g
Red Chilli  15g
Soya Sauce mix (see below) 180g
Sea salt Dash
Black Pepper Dash
Vegetable stock 250ml
Thai seafood sauce (see below) 100ml
Coconut or Sesame Oil 40ml
Lime juice 20ml
Bay leaf 1 leaf

Soya Sauce Mix:(makes approximately 250ml)
Carrot, with skin 100g
Celery  100g
Onion  100g
Soy sauce  100ml
White soya sauce 40ml
Vegetable stock  300ml

Thai Seafood Sauce: (makes 300ml)
Fish sauce  150ml
Lime juice  150ml
Garlic clove, finely chopped  4 pcs
Chilli, finely chopped   3 pcs
Palm sugar 1tbsp
Coriander root, finely chopped 2 pcs

Instructions:
Begin by preparing the Soya Sauce Mix at least 1 hour before you need it. Cut all vegetables into 5cm slices. Place all ingredients into a wide pot and simmer on a low temperature for 1 hour. Strain the liquid, discard vegetables. Store the liquid in the refrigerator until you need it (you can also freeze leftover and use later).

Prepare the Thai Seafood Sauce by placing all ingredients in a blender and blending for 1-2 minutes. Place mixture into a serving bowl.

Now you are ready to prepare the fish. Cut the ginger, celery and spring onion into fine strips, but not as thin as julienne. Heat the vegetable stock in a saucepan to a very light simmer and season with the bay leaf, celery, lime juice and sea salt. Place the fish into the pan and poach for 7-10 minutes. Once the fish is cooked, remove from saucepan. (If you want, you can save the stock for a clear fish soup later.)

Meanwhile heat the soya sauce mix and the sesame oil in separate and small sauce pans.

To serve place the cooked fish skin side up on the plate with the vegetable strips on top. Drizzle with the warmed soya sauce followed by a drizzle of the warm sesame oil. Serve with the Thai seafood sauce on the side.

Kamalaya Koh Samui
102/9 Moo 3, Laem Set Road, Na-Muang
Koh Samui, Suratthani 84140 Thailand
Telephone: +66 (0) 77 429 800
Fax: +66 (0) 77 429 899

This will be the last of my recipes from the Blue Elephant Cooking School in Bangkok, Thailand. This recipe blew me away, and completing this dish gave me new confidence in the kitchen. It seems difficult due to the number of steps and for some reason fish has always seemed harder to me… but the finished product is a complex fish that would wow any dinner party guest who ever visited your home.

This dish is suitable for grilling in the warmer months or baking indoors in the cooler. It’s full on flavor but actually light when eating. I believe they recommended it as an appetizer for a dinner party at the cooking school, but I don’t have anything in my repertoire that could top this… so would need it to be a main

Plaa Phaow Bai Tong (Grilled or Baked Fish in Banana Leaf)
Main Ingredients
100 G Sea Bass (or White Firm Fish like Red Snapper or Garupa)
1 Leaf Banana Leaf
1 Sheet Aluminum Foil

Ingredients for Paste Making
10 G Lemon Grass Finely Sliced
10 G Galangal
10 G Garlic
1 Stem Coriander Root

Ingredients for Seasoning
1 TS Oyster Sauce
1 TSP Light Soya Sauce
1/4 TSP White Pepper Powder
1/4 TSP White Sugar
5 G Butter

Herbs
5 G Sweet Basil Leaves (10-15 Leaves)
5G Dill (finely chopped)
1 Leaf Kaffir Lime Leaf (roll and finely slice)

Preparation

1. In the mortar: pound lemongrass, garlic, galangal & coriander root into a paste.
2. In mixing bowl: add pate, oyster sauce, light soya sauce, white pepper, sugar & butter. Add kaffir lime leaf last.
3. Then coat the fish with the paste, covering it well.
4. Add dill and then sweet basil leaves to the top of fish
5. Wrap the fish fillet with banana leaf and aluminum foil with the skin side of the fish down.
6. Grill on the range or bake in the oven (200 C) for 15 minutes.

Naam Jim (Chili Dipping Sauce for the Fish)
Ingredients
1 Stem Coriander Root
4 Cloves Garlic
3 G Bird’s Eyes Chilies (5 pieces or do 3 pieces for medium spicy)
1 Piece Big Red Chili
1 TB Fish Sauce
1/2 TB Palm Sugar
1 TB Tamarind Juice
1 TSP Lime Juice

Preparation

1. In a mortar pound garlic, coriander root, bird’s eyes chilies, & big red chili into paste.
2. In a saucepan simmer on low heat sugar, fish sauce & tamarind juice for about 1 minute.
3. Transfer into a mixing bowl. Add lime juice and the paste and mix well.
4. Serve alongside the fish.

Recipe courtesy of Blue Elephant Cooking School in Bangkok. Read about my experiences of a morning program class here.

For Italian food in Bangkok, most Bangkok expats have a few options top of mind – L’Opera, Zanotti, Spasso, etc. For some reason Giusto is not necessarily first recalled as an option for most… a shame as this modern Italian restaurant on Sukhumvit Soi 23 is not only a good value, but some of the best Italian food the city has to offer.

Giusto sprang to life in 2003, a daring venture for the owners Renzo, Giulio and Fabio as only Fabio had previous restaurant experience as a chef. The trio met, first as friends, out on the town in Bangkok. Ask them the story of how they decided to start things and a mischievous glint comes to their eyes as they recall the early days. They formulated the idea for the restaurant in those nights out on the town discussing their shared passion for Italian cuisine, wine, and a new style of dining.

The trio is half the appeal of the restaurant. All three are full of Italian pride, from their attitude towards food and life to the high performance Italian motorcycles they all ride. All are present in the restaurant and make a point to greet customers (particularly Giulio to discuss the wine and Fabio to discuss the food).

The restaurant itself has an understated elegance…modern and chic without being pretentious or stuffy. Inside you’ll find intimate corners with tables for two and long tables perfect for a dinner party of 10-15.

Walk to the back of the restaurant and you’ll find a separate area known as the Wine Experience / The Glass Wine Bar. The back area is more of an upscale lounging area perfect for post-meal drinks or a place to gather to enjoy a glass of wine and a cigar before a night out. The space is also used as a gallery. On my last visit they were setting up an exhibit in partnership with a Thai motorcycle enthusiast with artful black and white photographs of biking routes throughout Thailand.

As enjoyable as the ambiance and owners are, the food is the most impressive. Prices are reasonable for the quality. There’s a newly started lunch buffet with a range of Italian starters beginning at only 280 THB. Add a main and dessert to the set and it’s still only 490 THB. For dinner rates remain reasonable with pastas around 300 THB and even fancy main courses coming in around 800 THB. Or for the foodies, a degustation menu of 4 courses for 1300 THB.

A view of the sprawling lunch buffet

As we took our seats at the table and awaited the arrival of our other guests we were treated with bruscetta. The freshness and flavors of the ingredients foreshadowed the excellent meal we were about to enjoy. It was something so simple, yet had been done with such finesse as to excite us all.

Then came a sampler of breads and oils. I was wondering if we’d need to order or just continue to enjoy the freebies flowing from the kitchen

There was a large group dining that night so I don’t have notes on what everyone ordered, but where I can I’ll try and include some comments. I started with the Tuna & Trout Carpaccio with Olives, Capers & Lemons.

Joanna went with a lovely Tomato Salad with Olives, Avocado, Palm Hearts & Croutons.

Someone else enjoyed an artful salad

And a lovely Pumpkin Soup (which I had as a next course as well)

Then came the pastas and mains. Joanna went with a Pumpkin Gnocchi with Cheese Sauce, Broccoli & Walnuts

In preparation for my first visit to Giusto, I looked at the menu online in advance. I had a few dishes in mind that I was excited to try. Thankfully I also discussed with a friend who lives in Bangkok and had dined there multiple times. She suggested I go with the Grilled Snowfish with Lobster Cream Sauce with Sauted Spinach & Diced Boiled Parsley Potatoes. I might have skipped right over this dish without the suggestion…and gladly I didn’t. This dish was easily the best non-Thai fish dish (the Thai preparation of fish deserves it’s own criteria )I’ve tasted in Bangkok.

Other mains and pastas ordered by our group:

Even though everyone was satisfied and stuffed to the brim, we still had to try some desserts (for the blog we told ourselves ). I selected the Stuffed Vanilla Crepes in Warm Chocolate Sauce…good but after sampling other’s desserts I’d say there are better options on the menu.

All in all, Giusto is a highly recommended Bangkok stop from us. From the food to the venue to the owners, everything about this place is delightfully satisfying…which has to come from the top down. The trio has an infective, happy view on life. A good meal, a solid night out afterward, and repeat nightly They strove to create a venue, not to impress others, that they would want to go to. I’d call it a smashing success.

Giusto Italian Restaurant/Glass Wine Bar
16 Soi Sukhumvit 23, Sukhumvit Road
Telephone: +66 2258 4321 +66 2664 4420

Why is it that Jean Georges seems to define the various culinary chapters of my life?

I first became aware of Jean Georges Vongerichten when I was living in New York. I was in advertising…it was the early 1990’s…expense accounts were fat (people in America not just yet;)…and I was just learning what it meant to eat really well. My first meal with JG, as he is known by foodies worldwide, was at JoJo in 1992. Funny because this is also my mother’s nickname for me, but personal coincidences aside, this was the meal that transformed me. Three courses of wonderment later, my eyes were opened to the startling possibilities of cuisine which pretty much put me on the trajectory of culinary exploration I have been on ever since.

After that was Vong…a Thai French fusion restaurant just 2 blocks north of my office. It became a regular lunch time haunt – and ironically my first taste of Thai food. JG actually worked at the Oriental Hotel in Bangkok early in his career so masterfully blended the styles. Little did I know then that the silky coconut milk and lemongrass infused broths and papaya salads would become my daily rations when I moved to Thailand some 10 years later.

Then in the late 1990’s Mercer Kitchen was the place to be – convivial NYers rubbing elbows at its communal tables. In 2004, Spice Kitchen ignited the whole Meat Packing District craze while Perry Street somehow brought a fresh perspective to traditional, old stomping grounds in the West Village. Somehow in retelling this tale, I realize many of my NY eras of living prominently feature JG restaurants. How did this man know exactly where I (and everyone else) wanted to be and what we wanted to eat?

And so it was no surprise that Jean Georges is now writing a new Asian chapter in my life in Asia. In Shanghai, the copper painted ceilings and dark, woody environs of Jean Georges’ restaurant evoke a NY contemporary feel, while the view of the Bund with its meandering Chinese junks on the river leaves no doubt one is in China. It’s romantic, yet co-worker appropriate…exclusive, yet welcoming….posh, yet comfortable. How does JG manage to strike just the right chord every time?

Paul decides on the 3 course set menu, which is a surprisingly good value at 250 RMB / $37 USD, featuring a nice selection of Asian inspired dishes:

1^st course
Tuna tartar, avocado, spicy radish and ginger marinade (PAUL’s PICK)
OR
Crispy Calamari, Yuzu Dip and Pickled Chilli

2^nd course
Pan Roasted Red Snapper, Coconut Lime Sauce & Sauteed Green Beans (PAUL’s PICK)
OR
JG Burger with fries (really?!?!?!?)

3^rd course
JG Molten Chocolate Cake with Vanilla Ice Cream (PAUL’s PICK)
OR
Poached White Peach with Berry Sauce, Almond and Sesame

I order a la carte, selecting the Foie Gras Brulee with Sweet & Sour Pineapple Compote (118 RMB / $17 USD) followed by the Pan Seared Salmon with Roasted Porcini, Green Chilli and Garlic (158 RMB / $23 USD) and the Crème Fraiche Cheesecake with Sour Cherry Compote (58 RMB / $8 USD)

Paul loved the tartar, but wished it had been lighter on the ginger and citrus…somehow the tuna got lost in the mix.

Whereas the foie gras brulee was excellent – simultaneously rich and sweet with the caramelized top, yet when combined with the pineapple the flavour profile is deftly transformed…a rich, creamy mouthful melting into a burst of freshness. Too bad that the presentation was a little less compelling – the circular shape of the foie gras was reminiscent of a sausage patty, but I was willing to overlook this small detail after tasting the dish.

The salmon was full of punches of lemon mellowed by a brown sauce. I loved the small, artistic touch of a cracker of fish skin perched rakishly on the plate.

Paul’s fish was also good, but I had clearly made the better choice.

And then the desserts…I was simultaneously relieved and disappointed by the dainty sizes of the desserts. This food reviewing is tough on the waistline, but then again dessert is typically my favorite part of the meal. Paul’s molten chocolate cake was as expected – deliciously rich and decadent, comforting in its perfect rendition of a crowd pleasing favorite.

My Crème Fraiche Cheesecake was simply lovely with the sour cherry sauce playing its necessary role to cut the richness of the crème fraiche.

What can I say, it was a lovely meal. I think next time we will probably not order the set menu, only because somehow the a la carte choices were less predictable and better executed. But all in all JG never disappoints, so it is hard to imagine ever making a bad choice.

When in Shanghai, you simply must get to Jean Georges. And to finish off a perfectly chic evening, head to the neighbouring Glamour Bar.

Jean Goerges on the Bund
No. 3 on the Bund, 4^th Floor
3 Zhong Shan Dong Yi Road
Shanghai, China 200002
Telephone: +86 21 6321 7733

I realized once I moved to Singapore that I had squandered a great opportunity to learn Thai cooking while living in Thailand. With the prospect of many years living there I lacked the urgency one has on a shorter trip to get out and sample the various experiences Thailand has to offer. On my latest trip to Bangkok, I remedied the situation by attending a Thai cooking class at the Blue Elephant Cooking School in the Sathorn area of Bangkok.

The BECS was something I’d always heard about. The restaurant is famous for Royal Thai Cuisine (think anti-fusion Thai cooking, completely traditional and layered). The cooking school here is widely considered to be THE place to study traditional Thai cuisine… sure the experience is a bit canned and not as rustic as diving into the back of a street stall location and learning to cook the floor of someone’s home. But for most this experience will do.

I arrived early in the morning, maybe too early for me personally at 8:15am. Thankfully the school is easily accessed by BTS (Skytrain station Surasak) so you can avoid the morning commuters and terrible Bangkok traffic. I took the opportunity to check out our the space. The restaurant itself is amazing, with a classic, subtle look that’s not overly garish or dated as some “Royal Thai” restaurants tend to be.

Equally impressive is the environment in which the cooking classes take place.

We had brief introductions and then re-boarded the BTS to head one station down to the Bang Rak fresh foods market. The market was familiar to me, but is a great bonus for those who haven’t lived in Thailand before or those not intimately familiar with Thai ingredients, spices, and produce.

The instructors walked us around the market, first showing us the various Thai and Southeast Asian Fruits.

Then we dove deeper into the back alley market in search of the fresh fish and shrimp we’d need for our dishes. It was amazingly dirty and dingy, but more impressive was the lack of smells…this fish was fresher than the seafood section at the more sanitized Carrefour.

Next up was Thai herbs and spices. The showed us the difference between Galangal and Ginger and explained when you’d use both in different cuisines (not interchangeable for Royal Thai cooking).

It was amazing what all you could get in the market if you knew where to look. There was a station with a man and a giant mortar and pestle grinding up fresh curries, people making fresh noodles, and even a place with fresh coconut shavings (no canned coconut milk for our curry ).

Before we left we were treated to a traditional Thai Iced Coffee in a bag. With the extra punch of caffeine we were ready to head back to the school and get to the business of making dishes.

First up was Keang Ka-Ree Kai (yellow curry). To be honest I was overly familiar with green and red varieties before coming to Thailand. You’d think Penang curry would be a national dish with the frequency it’s served Stateside, but I honestly haven’t seen a Thai person ever order the dish when dining out. I hadn’t sampled the yellow curry so much and I have no idea why. The flavors were familiar with a subtlety Penang is missing.

This wasn’t a simple premade curry paste, add water and stir operation. We had to man the mortar and pestle and grind away. After a brief demonstration from the master chef we went to the kitchens to prepare our own (this is how the classes operate – view a dish being prepared, sample it, then make your own). Be prepared before attending this class for lots of grinding action

Next up came the Plaa Phaow Bai Tong (Grilled or Baked Fish in Banana Leaf). We used fresh cuts of Sea Bass for this dish. Again we were back to work with the mortar, grinding up lemongrass, galangal, garlic and coriander root for a paste to coat the fish in. It wasn’t the prettiest dish to look at, but man was it full of flavor. With the extra chili dipping sauce this dish will make you the toast of any dinner party.

The third dish had us cooking with the Wok. We made Koong Saam Rod (Spicy, Sweet & Sour Stir-Fried Prawns). The description is woefully incomplete though as other ingredients joined the prawns such as longan berries, pineapple, bell peppers, and sweet onion. This dish was full of flavor but also one of the most accessible dishes taught. I think you could easily serve this to a less adventurous friend to introduce a basic Thai dish without scaring them off with lots of heat and spice.

Last up is one of my favorite hot day lunch snacks – Yam Nua (Thai Beef salad). This dish is the easiest to prepare and cook, but you have to watch out for those tiny “bird’s eye chilies” (you don’t want to know the Thai name for these guys). This is a refreshing dish perfect for warm afternoons in a tropical climate. (Picture actually from a dinner party here in Singapore and not from cooking school).

With my arm stronger from beating down 4 different pastes it was time to enjoy the fruits of our labor. All the dishes were familiar yet fresh and new. The ingredients taught here are a bit more labor and ingredient intensive than what you’ll find on most street corners around town, but reward the extra effort with an elevated, complex dish that’ll impress even the Bangkok locals.

After completing the last dish and sampling our plates we were presented with gift bags. We received a complimentary Blue Elephant apron, diploma, all the recipes made that day, and a goodie box of tea/curries/spices/etc. All in all a pretty good value for 2500 THB.

If you’re new to Thailand I’d highly suggest the morning course. This way you can get down to the market and see how to select and find the ingredients. If you’ve living in Asia for any amount of time the afternoon course might be more your speed as they drop the market and teach a bonus dessert dish. They teach a different four dishes every day of the week so look into a package deal if you think you’d like to learn more.

Blue Elephant Cooking School
Blue Elephant Building
233 South Sathorn Road, Kwaeng Yannawa, Khet Sathorn, Bangkok 10120, Thailand
Tel: +66 (2) 673 9353, +66 (2) 6739354, +66 (2) 6739356
Fax:  +66 (2) 673 9355
Skytrain: Surasak
E-mail: cooking.school@blueelephant.com

Bonus Pics

Two of our cooking instructors

My workstation. The ingredients might have been pre-prepared but all the mashing was done by hand.

Lots of pictures of the market at the end of the article so scroll all the way down

Muslims have Mecca, lovers of Trance have the lovely town of Goa, surfers and single, middle-aged women looking for a spiritual awakening have Bali For lovers of sushi the most sacred pilgrimage of all is to the Tsukiji Fish Market in Tokyo, Japan.

Tsukiji is not only the largest fish market in the world but is also one of the largest food markets of any kind, anywhere. With nearly 3000 metric tons of fish passing through the market every single day, it’s a fair bet that most seafood getting out to people in Asia and other parts of the world began it’s life outside of the water at Tsukiji.

The night before our journey to the market I ate a quick meal in Shibuya and headed back to the hotel early to rest up. The action takes place early…fresh fish begins to unload at 3 AM and the bidding for the choice Tuna takes place around 5:20 AM. I wanted to be fresh…and hungry (more on that later). You can get to the market via subway (on the Tokyo Metro Hibiya Line) but I’d recommend you get a group and take a cab. Not because you need to necessarily, but because if you go on a Saturday morning you’ll see lots of Japanese people just going home from night of drinking…stumbling through the streets, friends helping each other along, or even sleeping in their business suits on on a doorway.  Some of them will even be heading to the fish market for a final meal and drink before heading home it is fairly common to make the fish market the final stop on a big night out in Tokyo.

I had trouble sleeping the night before…like a kid at Christmas I wanted the morning to come as quickly as possible. It wasn’t the market that excited me, it was my first full-on sushi meal of the Tokyo trip… something that had been far too delayed for my tastes. You see the market isn’t all that engaging past a certain point for outsiders. People are quickly going about their day receiving, cleaning, and selling fish. And unless you really like to hang out in cold, damp rooms with rushing packing carts flying by inches from running you over, it’s best to plan a short trip to the market.

Outside of the market you’ll find plenty of stores selling sushi knives, Japanese cooking gear, tourist t-shirts, etc. Inside you’ll find row after row of fish stalls selling everything from Tuna to Octopus to crazy creatures of the sea I would have never thought to eat.

Pushing in even deeper to the market you’ll find the Tuna auction house. I was hoping to hear guys calling out 1000-do-i-get-1000 Yen-to the guy in the back-1200-do i get 1200 or something like southern auction houses but with Japanese language. It wasn’t quite like that, but there was lots of barking. Unfortunately they pack all the tourists into a small area and everyone’s vying for shots though all are too far away to really see or hear anything good.

Do ensure you get there early for the action. The day we visited I think they started clearing folks out around 6:30 AM. Afterwards you’re free to continue roaming the aisles of fish. But a smarter person will run to get in line for some food. Since this is the freshest fish in the world, it stands to reason that when you eat the sushi here it’s probably gonna be the freshest you can have short of catching a fish in the open ocean and cutting it up on the spot. It’s incredible, the fish literally travels 50 meters to the restaurant. I’ve never eaten sushi before lunchtime, but a 6AM treat like this is not to be missed.

We put our faith in the Luxe guide and either everyone else was a fan of the guide or the place really was good because there was already a snaking queue three lines of people deep in front of the door to Daiwa Sushi.

Patiently we waited in the rain, eyes droopy from little sleep. After about 45 minutes to an hour our patience was rewarded as we were ushered into the tiny sushi bar. I took my seat in the corner. My back pressed into the wall and my face was probably no more than 2 ft from the chef. Ultra fancy, super-modern sushi restaurant this isn’t…. but you’re here for the fish and man does it shine.

I wasn’t listening to the chef when he asked us for orders as I was looking around for menus, but apparently we agreed to the set everyone in the restaurant was ordering. It’s a beginner’s guide to sushi set. I don’t consider myself a beginner, but I was hungry and looking for anything I could get my hands on.

The dishes served were:
- miso with clams

- Japanese omelet & sea urchin

- shrimp tuna maki roll, fatty tuna, and shrimp sashimi

- yellow tail & eel

and a few other things I wolfed down before realizing I should have taken a picture

Freshness of every dish was unbelievable. Tastes like I’d never experienced before. The Sea Urchin completely redeemed itself from our horrible experience with it in Kyoto (more on that soon).

The Tuna. Oh man, I don’t have the words to describe. I once heard a rumor that the Japanese sort all the green tea they produce and set aside the good stuff for local consumption and then export the lower grade teas to other countries. I feel like they do this with the tuna. There simply isn’t Tuna of this quality in America (I’ve eaten in NYC and Texas, but never in San Fran so maybe there?).

I relished every piece in the set. Thankfully Joanna isn’t big on sushi (but was doing her best to develop a taste and ate quite a bit) so I was able to have seconds of some of the dishes. After the set was over I ordered a few more pieces of the select fatty tuna for good measure.

I left tired, but extremely satisfied. Had the market not been closed the next Sunday I would have probably returned the next morning for another meal. I won’t go back for to see the auction, but I will definitely return for the sushi. If you’re a lover of food and particularly sushi, this is a trip you MUST make. There’s really nothing like it.

Tsukiji
The Tuna Auction Area is off-limits
(except from 5:00AM until 6:15AM)

Daiwa Sushi
Tsukiji Market Part6 Bldg. 5-2-1 Tsukiji, Chuo-ku, Tokyo
Closed Sundays

Tourist area of the tuna auction

Don’t miss this Italian gem in Silom

On recent visit back to Bangkok, we decided to visit a favorite of many expats, Vino di Zanotti. Located in the junction of Sathorn and Silom, Vino di Zanotti serves up a more casual bistro-style experience than its more formal sister Zanotti right across the street.  Whenever you crave authentic and carefully prepared cucina Italiana “Vino”, as it is known by Bangkokians, is a great choice.

At first when I moved to Bangkok, I was surprised there were so many good Italian restaurants – Guisto, L’Opera, Fuzio, Sirocco, Spasso, Limoncello…I mean why is there such good quality Italian in Asia? Until someone explained it to me quite simply….duh, it is just another form of noodle! And besides eating is practically a sport in SE Asia, so good quality food from all regions of the world is revered.

While Zanotti is more of a stuffy, special occasion (or when on expense account) kind of place, Vino is quite lively partly due to the live jazz band that plays each night till midnight. Serving the same caliber of food out of the same kitchen as Zanotti, the dishes are truly of the highest quality and (almost) never fail to please. Also, they share the same seemingly endless wine list of 2300 selections…mostly Italian, of course.

In our last meal at Vino we ventured off the pasta section menu and tried a couple of fish and beef dishes. Gretchen ordered the Pescato del Giorno al Forno con Potato (fish of the day baked with potatoes, capers and fresh tomato slices) at 350THB / $14.70 SGD / $10 USD. This was probably our favorite fish dish – the presentation was simple and rustic, yet still elegant and the flavor was spot on.

Paul had the Pesce Spada alla Favignana (swordfish prepared Favignana-style with pine nuts, parsley, olives and cherry tomatoes) at 510THB / $21.40 SGD / $14.80 USD. Paul is a sucker for pine nuts…sometimes I think he orders dishes simply for the pine nuts Actually this dish was not quite we expected…the fish had been flaked and was served in a thin layer than had been baked with a breadcrumb topping. It actually was delicious, but I think they could do a better job preparing the diner for what he / she will receive – many folks may have been disappointed not to receive a swordfish steak.

I opted for the Filetto di Manzo ( a fillet of beef with rock salt and rosemary) at 590THB / $24.80 SGD / $17.20 USD. This was pure perfection. I often think the best was to judge a restaurant is a perfectly grilled piece of meat or a simple soup…this can really show the caliber of the chef and the kitchen more so than seemingly complex layers of food under sauces. I would go back just to have this dish again.

We were however rather disappointed with the desserts. Paul and I chose simple classics – Torta di Mela con Gelato (apple and cinnamon tart with ice cream) at 180 THB / $7.60 SGD / $5.40 USD and Panacotta traditional Torino (panacotta with caramel sauce) at 190 THB / $8 SGD / $6.40 USD. The apple tart tasted store bought – and I mean grocery store, not bakery. While the panacotta had the right texture, it lacked the rich flavor one would expect…and sadly the caramel sauce also tasted store bought, like something out of a bottle.

Given the overall quality of the main courses, we decided we could forgive them this error. Just don’t make the same mistake we did. If you want a 2-course meal, it would be advisable to go with an appetizer and skip dessert.

VINO di Zanotti
41 Soi Yommarat, Saladaeng Road, Silom
Bangkok, Thailand 10110
Tel +66 2 636-3811
Fax +66 2 636-3366

(top picture from the Zanotti group, the server wouldn’t let me take pictures of the place only the food)