Chinese food. Of all the foods of the world I’ve tasted, I have to admit that Chinese was the one I’ve enjoyed least. I ate plenty of it growing up… but what we shovel onto plates at 5$ buffets in Abilene, TX is worlds away from anything authentic and should hardly be counted. In my limited exposures to it I’ve always found it overly heavy, too fried, or involving unappetizing ingredients (sort of like the American food of Asia ).

I don’t want to overly sell my experience at The Chairman in Hong Kong. I’ve read many a review calling some slightly innovative dish a revelation and thought somehow they’d cheapened the word. A foam on a plate of food is hardly revelatory But my meal at The Chairman challenged not only what I thought of specific, classic Chinese (Cantonese) dishes, but also how I viewed Chinese food as a whole.

I’d never heard of The Chairman prior to my last visit to Hong Kong. I wouldn’t have heard of it if not for a fortuitous seating arrangement at the Miele Guide Gala launch party in Macau. We had taken our seats earlier than everyone else and found plenty of time to talk with those seated with us at the table. A duo from Tokyo, two from D’Sens in Bangkok and two from The Chairman. The conversations went immediately to food with everyone asking us our opinions on Singapore cuisine. I was honest, telling of how though I enjoyed Chili Crab… I found the sauce too thick and masking the tender meat of the crab. Our new friend agreed and began to unfold a description of a beautifully simple crab dish that was a specialty at her Cantonese restaurant in Hong Kong. I casually said I hadn’t made plans yet for lunch tomorrow and she wrote her personal number on a business card and told me to call her… she’d ensure I had a seat.

It was only later that evening that I googled the restaurant and discovered the usual three month waiting list to get a table.

I arrived at the restaurant and found it simple and clean. White walls, white tables, and none of the garish decorations commonly associated with Chinese cuisine. We sat and were promptly greeted by our servers. Tea and towels were immediately at the table, and we were talked through the house specialties. We’d come for crab, but they were so passionate about other classic Cantonese dishes and everything sounded so good. Except two items on the menu I was planning to give a pass to… the century egg and pigeon. Squab I’m OK with, Chinese-style pigeon has just never done it for me. I was gracious and decided if it’s a signature I might as well give it a polite bite and tuck it into my napkin when no one was looking.

First out was the century egg. For those who don’t know, this is the infamous egg commonly believed to have been buried for a hundred years in horse urine. This was due to the ammonia aroma usually found in the egg. There’s no urine involved today, rather an alkaline agent that changes the composition of the egg.  The egg is simply more or less pickled. I think of it as ancient Chinese Molecular Gastronomy. This egg was lovely. The accompanying pickled ginger was good enough to eat by the plateful. I’m not kidding you. It was one of the freshest, cleanest tastes I’ve ever had in my mouth. One of the owners explained that it was harvested during a small window of 2 precious weeks locally in the summer and then using only the most slim part of the ginger, the fingers, it is pickled in house. The ferry back from Macau had been choppy, leaving my stomach a bit queasy. The ginger settled me down and got me ready for the feast coming our way.

Next out were Deep-fried Taro Cake with Smoked Duck & Water Chestnut. They were lighter and more delicate than the name would suggest with a delicate creamy filling.

Then came another challenging little dish: Crispy Small Yellow Croaker served with Balsamic Dressing. Not challenging in taste in any way. I didn’t grow up eating a lot of fish and still have slight mental hangups when it comes to eating whole fish with bones, heads, eyes and all. This one was beautiful, light and the balsamic dressing lifted flavors I didn’t expect to find in such a tiny fish. Because the fish is marinated at length, the bones soften and the fish can be eaten whole. .

Now was time for my old nemesis. The Chinese pigeon. I’ve shot many a Thai-Chinese wedding and this is always on the menu. I’d quietly think to myself, OK this is a traditional dish from back in the day when they had to eat anything they could find, but now they can have chicken or quail so why do they keep eating “flying rat”. These pigeons were far removed from the statue shitters found in your favorite city. These were young, under 20 days old. The skin was crispy and the flesh was moist due to a delicate tea smoked preparation. It made a believer out of me.

Now it was finally time for the crab. I worried about room at this point. It was only noon after all and I hadn’t planned for a multi-course lunch having just had a four-course feast and more than a couple post-Gala beers. But one look at the crab somehow made my stomach find ample space.

They do crab differently here. The crab itself is a special local crab called the flowery crab and only a small amount are caught everyday in Hong Kong. Further there is no heavy masking sauces. The crab is cooked simply in a bath of Aged ShaoXing Wine & Fragrant Chicken Oil. The sauce gives a slight lift to the dish. You can still taste of bit of fresh ocean in the tender flesh. At this point the table had devolved into a caveman like frenzy. No conversation, just snaps of shell, sucking and slurping of meat and an occasional (though hidden) lick of the fingers.

The crab is served with accompanying broad, flat noodles used to mop up the remaining sauce. Mmmmmm. I don’t care how much food you’ve had previously. You will put all this down. Just seeing it sitting there still waiting will have you reaching continuously for another spoonful… just one more you say, till the plate is empty.

We rounded out the meals with a seasonal veg, some spare ribs, and a dessert. They were all lovely. I was exhausted, but each one carried me a little bit further than I thought I could go.

Our new friend from the Gala had arranged for another owner, Danny Yip, to speak with us during the meal. He made it out between courses to discuss a bit about the restaurant and guide us through the meal. He was a gracious host and very informative. I don’t normally associate Chinese food with local, fresh produce, but he told us that this is actually the hallmark of Cantonese’s cuisine arising from the history of being close to abundant vegetation and fresh seafood. So the cuisine developed with a lighter touch to showcase the freshness and natural flavor of the ingredients… not mask the low quality like what you’d find up north with their super sweet sauces. Everyone at The Chairman was committed to this idea of excellence in ingredients. They charter a private boat to line fish for their seafood. They revisit the menu seasonally to take advantage of what’s best. You’d think it was some snooty San Francisco restaurant with the way they talked about food… but amazingly it wasn’t some fusion abomination… it was packed with locals.

I adjusted my belt a notch, paid and walked slightly dizzy into the street. The meal might not have had the showy flourishes of a Robuchon meal, but easily trumps any other Hong Kong dinging experience I’ve had, Chinese dining… and probably ranks among the top-5 just all around best meals I’ve ever had. Just the kinds of meals that leave you happy, satisfied, and opening your eyes to new foods and ingredients you previously wouldn’t consider.

I look forward to returning. I can still taste the pickled ginger, smokey pigeon flesh, and that fresh, seawater crab. I wish them much success, but I also kind of hope it stays bellow the radar, before the critical haters roll in wanting to have their unique voice and tear it down. There’s something special going on with the food here and I just hope I can always get a seat

The Chairman
?????18???18, Kau U Fong, Central
2555 2202

An outstanding Cantonese meal with impeccable service

I have a great fondness for Chinese cuisine. And at the top of my list are both Sichuan and Cantonese. Living in Chinatown in Singapore one might expect the best Chinese dining to be here…and while this is not entirely incorrect, we were recently blown away by a lunch at Summer Palace in the Regent Hotel. They have recently reinvigorated the restaurant with the addition of a new chef and the makeover of the interior. Having never visited before, I cannot comment on the degree of change, but one thing I can say is that this is the best Cantonese I have had outside of Hong Kong. It was, in a word, outstanding!

Being dim sum addicts, we were excited to see that the lunch started with a course of dim sum – a deep fried yam with garoupa, shrimp dumplings with bird’s nest, and barbecue pork buns. All were absolutely perfect in execution – the barbecue pork bun was super light and airy, while the shrimp dumpling with bird’s nest was bursting with fresh seafood flavour. But I think our favourite was the yam with garoupa. A crunchy yam outside concealed a creamy rich inside and the contrast between the two was heaven.

Our next course was Scrambled Eggs with Caviar and Crab Meat – a fairly simple description for one of the most impressive dishes of the day. The chef layered scrambled eggs, crab meat, scrambled egg whites and topped the whole thing off with caviar…an unusual choice as caviar is not a typical Cantonese ingredient. We couldn’t get over how fresh and flavourful each element of the dish was – the crab was simply steamed but bursting with flavour and the layering of egg and egg white was brilliant not only from a taste standpoint, but also because of the textural variety it added. Paul called them the “fanciest eggs I will ever eat” …this may be true, but this was not just fancy for fancy sake, it was a truly amazing dish that was a mouthful of delicious richness bite after bite.

Next was Wok Fried Crocodile with Spicy Sauce – a delicate balance of flavours and textures between the crispy celery and meat from the tail of the crocodile to the subtle yet spot-on seasoning of the dish. This again was one of our favourites. It was a perfect execution of Cantonese cuisine – despite wok frying, not greasy and well balanced with each ingredient able to stand on its own. The restaurant manager helped us out a bit by suggesting to try the XO sauce with it – and this really took it to the next level. And actually this was one of the things we really enjoyed about the service – we don’t always know which sauces go with which dishes, so we really appreciate it when someone like the manager at Summer Palace takes the time to help us enhance our experience in a way that doesn’t make us feel silly for not knowing how to combine things. It’s this level of friendly and discreet service that can really set a dining experience apart from others.

We moved on next to a dish of Pan Fried Lamb Loin with String Beans. Paul loved the way this was prepared – sliced thin and fried with a touch of sauce it had both a sweetness and a gamey-ness to it as well. This simple preparation really highlighted the base ingredients.

Followed by Steamed Glutinous Rice with Crab served in a Bamboo Basket – as much as I love the other items, I wish this had come first so we would have had more room in our tummies. It was stunningly good. The crab claws had been cooked on the base of rice, so the whole basket was perfumed with the delicate scent of crab. And the rice had taken on an almost creamy quality that when combined with the crab was, for me, truly amazing.

I am not usually a fan of the Chinese puddings and jellies, but I must admit these turned me and totally changed my opinion of Asian desserts. We enjoyed a group of desserts that were classic Cantonese – Chilled Yam Pudding, a Chilled Lemongrass Jelly and Aloe Vera in Lime Juice, Double Boiled Papaya with Snow Fungus and Almonds, and a Double Boiled Egg White Milk Custard with Bird’s Nest. While all were amazing, Paul and I agreed that the Yam Pudding and Egg Custard were our two favourites.

In our opinion, Summer Palace is presenting the best executed Cantonese in Singapore. And for me, several of the dishes like the Egg dish, the Crocodile dish and the Steamed Crab in the bamboo basket are destination dishes – meaning I would come back specifically for those dishes to enjoy them time and time again. If you are looking for Cantonese food of the highest quality, then run, don’t walk, to Summer Palace.

Summer Palace
The Regent Hotel, 3^rd Floor
1 Cuscaden Road
Singapore
Telephone: +65 6725 3288

Like HCMC today, the Bangkok foreigner scene of old thrived close to the river. These days, however, I never really think to set foot down there. It’s the kind of place you visit once, the first time you come to the city… King’s Palace, check. Emerald & Reclining Buddha, check. Either the Oriental or Shangrila for tea or brunch, check. Then for most who live in the city (unless they work nearby) the river is a distant memory. This has more to do with the difficulty and time it takes to get down to the river than what’s on offer. But, if you wait till Sunday brunch time, with no traffic… the other side of the river is accessible in about 20 minutes tops and you don’t even have to wait for a ferry. This is the perfect time to venture out to Trader Vic’s massive brunch/lunch buffet spread.

Trader Vic’s is… well Trader Vics. Check out their pages if you don’t already know. Sure they’re a chain, but so are Four Seasons and Orientals. And they can be a bit dated in decoration style… unless you still rock a photographer’s vest, the sandal and sock look, cargo khaki shorts, or all of the above. But ignoring all that, this place has some great food.

I was seriously floored by the selection and availability of foods here. I walked in and saw immediately to my left a sushi bar complete with fresh sashimi and rolls. The quality of the fish was high for a buffet and featured real tuna… deep red and not neon pink like most of the cheap sushi buffets. Nearby there was also an oyster and caviar bar with freshly shucked oysters and a wide sampling of exotic caviar.

Then to my immediate right I saw not one, but two beautifully cured pig legs. I loved the Italian sausage and meat section and ate more than my fair share of prosciutto, mortadella, and others.

Next… well it’s Southeast Asia and we have seafood in abundance. Trader Vic’s has it fresh and ready to hit the grill. Fresh crabs, prawns, lobsters, and fillets of fish are available for grilling… mmm.

Speaking of grilling, Trader Vic’s pulls a trained Benihana chef over for the lunch feast. Here you can have a steak (or other meat, but really with steak are you gonna have chicken?) expertly cooked and cut in front of you. Sadly they don’t toss prawns in your mouth while waiting in line, but it’s a free bonus that’s very welcome.

Then there’s some beautiful meats sliced freshly at the carving table. Yup, that was a bone in ribeye in the background there with fresh sauces.

A first for me at a foreigner friendly Sunday eating extravaganza – roast duck. I’m not Peking Duck expert, but the birds on offer here were nearly as crispy and succulent as the lauded Made in China… and best of all it was part of a buffet so I was free to come and go as I pleased (and I pleased a lot )

Then there was the cheese spread. I loved the layout, thoughtfully done on a tree log. It featured cheeses of many regions and styles. The accompanying real honey comb honey was a nice touch to the section.

Another notable station was the Som Tam station – fresh ingredients pounded to order.

Last but certainly not least was the pastry spread. There’s a well skilled and happy to produce patissier somewhere in the kitchen here. Pastries ranged from delicate small bites to  French classic cakes. Also there was a range of seemingly home made ice cream on offer (not pictured).

Trader Vics really surprised me. I’ve visited some epic buffet spreads and this one sits near the top of the list. Not only is there a ton on offer, the price is super reasonable as you can opt in or out of the booze. I can’t believe the amount and quality of food I was able to enjoy for under 50 USD (around 1700 THB). I’d recommend it highly to anyone… whether first time Bangkok traveler looking to explore the river area or jaded expat needing a break from the Four Seasons or Sukhothai brunches.

Trader Vic’s
Bangkok Marriott Resort & Spa
257 Charoennakorn Road
Thornburi, Bangkok 10600
THAILAND
Tel: 66 (0) 2476 0022
Fax: 66 (0) 2476 1120

Stunning presentation, impeccable service and inventive, modern French cuisine

It was Paul’s birthday, so it had to be special…something out of the ordinary and truly impressive. After much consideration I selected Gunther’s, #7 on the Miele Guide’s list for top restaurants in Asia. I think what got me, besides its reputation as one of the best restaurants in Singapore, was the idea of a menu-less, 8-course tasting dinner designed on the spot by the chef (who trained in a 3-starred Michelin restaurant in Paris). The idea of every course being a surprise sounded exhilarating and like just the kind of unique experience I was looking to share with Paul on his special day.

And in fact, everything about our experience was absolutely flawless. When we entered  the restaurant we were treated like VIPs (and I didn’t even mention to them it was a birthday). They took my bag and carried it for me…lest I be perturbed with even the smallest nuisance of shouldering my laptop…and ushered us to our table. We were immediately greeted and the waiter did something I have never seen before….he brought the raw ingredients of today’s specials on a platter to our table for us to see them first hand. There was an impressive array of kuroge wagyu beef, lobster (still moving!), crab legs, a leg of Spanish ham on a carving tray, and a magnificent truffle covered by a domed plate. If there was any question about having the tasting menu, this completely removed it.

As we ordered the tasting menu, they asked if we had any special dislikes or dietary issues. I personally don’t like carpaccios (raw sliced meats / fish), and since I had seen these on the menu I decided to mention that. No judgment, no snooty derision…just a respectful reply of “of course madame.” We were asked if we would like the paired wine tasting as well….I said “yes”, Paul opted for “no” since he was getting over a cold. And with that the fun began…

1^st course
Japanese tomatoes with balsamic reduction and Spanish Ham

Why does everything Japanese taste better?….small, sweet and perfectly ripe tomatoes were an absolute delight with the Spanish ham. The balsamic vinegar served to cut the heaviness of the ham and the sweetness of the tomato and the result was perfect harmony.

2^nd course
Scallop carpaccio with tomato (for Paul) and grilled scallop with tomato (for me)

A stunning, simple presentation…..perfectly grilled in my case, and delicately seasoned and garnished in Paul’s case.

3^rd course
Capellini with caviar and white truffle

The domed truffle was no doubt used for this simple yet intensely flavourful dish. The earthly aroma wafted up from our dishes and I am pretty sure we didn’t speak as we silently savoured this dish. And in fact, it reminded Paul of a famous Eric Ripert dish from Le Bernardin in NYC.

4^th course
Cepe mushroom with scamorza cheese

Again, simple but harmonious combination of ingredients resulting in a delicate, yet satisfying mouthful.

5^th course
Alaskan king crab with chili oil in a pasta shell

Beautifully presented and judiciously seasoned, a lovely a light mouthful before the heavier courses.

6^th course
Kuroge wagyu beef grilled with corn and potato croquettes

Meat and potatoes if you get right down to it….but this is no average meat, the pinnacle of beef from an ancient stock of Japanese black-haired cattle. So tender and juicy it melts in your mouth. And the simplest item on the dish, the corn, was remarkably fresh and amazingly sweet.

7^th course
Pan-fried scamorza cheese, white truffle and Spanish ham

It’s hard to say what was my favourite course – it was a toss up between this one and the kuroge beef. There is no more classic combination than ham and cheese and when elevated with the best quality ingredients plus white truffles…well, something classic becomes something divine.

8^th course
Apple tart with rum raisin ice cream + compliments of the chef mini macaroons, valhrona chocolate, cannelles and cookies

A creative take on a classic was the perfect finish to a truly perfect meal. I am also a sucker for macaroons, so I was delighted to have the added and unexpected bonus of these and other wonderful cookies and chocolates.

It’s not often we write a review without a hint of constructive criticism….but Gunther’s was in fact as flawless a meal and dining experience as we have had in years. Every detail was considered and perfectly executed in every part of the service….from the inventive presentations to the masterful, yet simple flavour combinations to the highly attentive but somehow unobtrusive wait staff. OK, our experience was expensive…it cost us around $800 SGD for the chef’s tasting menu for 2 with 1 person doing the wine pairing (with service and GST), but I do believe it was totally worth it. But don’t be scared off by our bill…if you order a la carte off the menu, entrees can be had for $38 – 75 SGD, so not every meal has to be as extravagant as ours was.

Honestly, the bar has been set so high now by Gunther’s in Singapore that I struggle to imagine a better meal at any restaurant in any country. Our immediate circle of friends may well be tired of hearing about our culinary masterpiece of a meal, but we never seem to tire of talking about it. If you haven’t been there yourself, revisit your calendar and make it happen – a culinary story of your own awaits.

Gunther’s
36 Purvis Street, #01-03
Singapore
Telephone: +65 6338 8955

A sumptuous art-deco Northern Chinese restaurant with panoramic city views

I get annoyed with those restaurants with stunning city views and mediocre food. We all know places like this in every major city…the kind of place you always take out of town guests to, scoff at the exorbitant bill in relation to the quality and remember why you never go there otherwise. Hutong is decidedly NOT this sort of place – it is the inventive Northern Chinese food that keeps me coming back again and again.

I had the pleasure to take Paul here for the first time on our last trip to Hong Kong. I was so excited and really overwhelmed by all the wonderful choices on the menu that I wanted him to try. Every time I go I struggle with the dilemma of trying new dishes or returning to old favourites. And both of us realized our eyes were bigger than our stomachs after short listing 8 dishes! In the end we went with some signature dishes including:

Mala Chilli Prawns, fried with Sichuan dried peppers and Chinese celery ($218 HKD):

Braised Beef Rib wrapped in Lotus Leaf ($398HKD):

and Green Asparagus coated with White Sesame ($118):

The Chili Prawns were super spicy and outstanding. I have also had the Chili Soft Shell Crab which is equally good and worth a try. Paul’s favorite was the Braised Beef Rib and I must say I was impressed not only by the robust flavor but also by the tableside presentation. In fact, everything was perfectly cooked and elegantly presented.

Since opening in 2006, Hutong is the winner of many awards from prestigious international publications and has made it onto Travel & Leisure’s Best New Restaurants, Food & Wine Go List, 4 and a half stars from the New York Times Review, and Conde Nast Traveller’s Hot Tables List. It is the combination of the sexy yet understated glamour of 1920’s Shanghai (even the bathroom is worth a look), the stunning panoramic views of Victoria Harbor and the sophisticated Northern Chinese food with exquisite presentation that contributes to a truly special destination restaurant that attracts in-the-know visitors and savvy locals.

Why don’t you try our favorite Kowloon agenda? Take the Star Ferry to Kowloon at sunset, walk to glam and exotic Salon de Ning at the Peninsula Hotel for an aperitif and then head over to Hutong for a meal that both satisfy the eyes and the palate.

Hutong
www.aqua.com.hk
28/F, One Peking Road,
Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong
Telephone: + 852 3428 8342

Kampot is about a 3 hour drive from Cambodia’s capital, Phnom Phen. This sleepy little village is perfect for a relaxing weekend and in fact, serves as a countryside retreat for those living in Phnom Phen.

The best way to get to Kampot is to hire a driver for the 3 hour trip through the countryside to the village of Kampot. In our trip, all manner of Cambodian life were observed on the drive – from emaciated cattle crossing the road to landmine restricted areas to people carrying slaughtered livestock home on the back of motorbikes, no kidding….dangling heads and hoofs and all. The drive in itself is a visual adventure.

Upon arriving in Kampot, we checked in at the Rikitikitavi Boutique Hotel where we were quickly won over by the friendly Dutch owner who took very good care of us. Rikitikitavi is housed in a converted rice barn, but features chic, updated and amenities for the modern traveller. This is by far the nicest hotel in Kampot, with the most sophisticated restaurant in town – all in a quiet spot by the calming Tek Chou river. Paul wants me to be sure to tell you he recommends the juicy burger topped with pineapple at Rikitikitavi Hotel. While dinner was indeed satisfying, I thoroughly enjoyed the breakfast menu with fresh homemade goodies and jams – breakfast is my favourite meal of the day.

In our time in Kampot we totally relaxed – read books, rode bikes, ate leisurely meals and walked along the river during sunset. Things to do in Kampot are few – it really is a place to chill. But if you are feeling adventurous, head to Bokor Hill, an abandoned 1920’s French resort town complete with casino, post office and more. What we enjoyed most was renting bikes and exploring Cambodian life amongst rice fields, by the river and in-and-around town.

On our last day we took a side trip to the seaside village of Kep. Our innkeeper in Kampot told us they were famous for their pepper crab – this area of Cambodia is widely known for their pepper farms. Inspired by a new culinary mission we set off!  We chose Veranda Resort (look for this sign at the front door) in Kep for our pepper crab, but were also told by locals that most any restaurant along the ocean does a mean pepper crab. What lured us to Veranda Resort though was the spectacular view from the cliff looking out onto the ocean. They also have their own bakery on site and offer up homemade gelato – yum. 2 crabs and a whole fish later….we got back in the car for our final leg back to Phnom Phen.

While Phnom Phen is certainly a Cambodian must see, we think it would be well worth your time to take a side trip to Kampot and Kep – a stop in these villages will add a bit of texture and real-life Cambodia in your SE Asian adventure.

In Kampot….

Rikitikitavi Boutique Hotel
$25 – 40USD a night
Telephone: +855 12 235 102
http://www.rikitikitavi-kampot.com/

In Kep…

Veranda Resort
+855(0)33 399 035
Mountain Hillside Road
http://www.veranda-resort.com/