A luxurious spa experience in Shanghai

It may seem that I do little else but spa when I am in Shanghai. This is not entirely true… but I tend to spend a great deal of time there for business, which can be stressful, so I like to make unwinding a regular part of my Shanghai routine. When I am in Shanghai I usually stay at the Westin on the Bund or the Ritz Carlton Portman, which lucky for me, both have access to great places for massage. When at the Ritz I pop over to Green Massage. And then when at the Westin, I take the elevator up to the 3rd floor to the on-site Banyan Tree Spa.

The Banyan Tree Spa at the Westin is a study in opulent Chinese luxury. As soon as you step into the candlelit red and black lacquer environs, you feel well away from the hustle and bustle of the hotel and the city. I usually go for a massage of which there are many kinds – Balinese, Sport, Lomi Lomi, Swedish, Oriental and Hot Stone for 850RMB (S$170 / $125 USD). While these are certainly not the great value massages I have previously recommended at Green Massage or Dragonfly the experience is worth the splurge. The booking is for a leisurely 90 minutes, while the treatment itself is 60 minutes long. In the remaining 30 minutes you relax during a foot bath before and a relaxation period after before emerging into the real world. And the therapists are truly skilled at transporting the body into a state of relaxation. Usually I feel as if I need to be poured from the table in order to leave

Also, I can recommend the manicures and pedicures at the Banyan Tree. Both thorough and luxurious, these will leave you both relaxed and prettier. They also offer facials and hair treatments, but I cannot really comment on these as I have not experienced them myself. And as you know at Accidental Epicurean, we make it a habit to only write about things we have personally experienced.

So check out the Banyan Tree Spa at The Westin Bund Center Hotel and treat yourself to some the indulgence and relaxation one needs while in the fast past city of Shanghai.

The Westin Bund Center – Banyan Tree Spa
Bund Center, 88 Henan Central Road
Shanghai, China 200002
Phone: +86 21 6335 1888

(Photos by Joanna)

I had been meaning to try Mr. & Mrs. Bund for a while. It’s close to the Westin Hotel where I always stay when in Shanghai. It has a bit of buzz. And the chef was the notable Paul Pairet from former fame at Jade on 36 (which has suffered since he left). Well, if I had known what I know now, I would have been beating a path to its door much, much sooner. I am not sure what I like more – the inventive French food with Asian flourishes, the sexy yet chill vibe or innovative serve-yourself wine bar? I suppose it’s all this and more that led to a recent roaring good time on my last trip to Shanghai. Say hello to my new fave in Shanghai, Mr. & Mrs. Bund (my favorite is still Stiller’s Paul ).

Inspired not just a little by the film, Mr. & Mrs. Smith, the linkage is obvious when you approach Mr. & Mrs. Bund’s entrance of twin red and green doors. The doors look like that of suburban manse and require the guest to ring a doorbell to enter. Already, this was not your typical French restaurant.

What lied behind the doors was a sprawling expanse of dining areas. It’s actually rare to see a restaurant so large that uses space so well. Fully of intimate nooks and crannies as well as larger tables for groups, the décor is a sexy blend of red and black.

The roof deck affords an amazing view of the bund and there is also a lounge area for relaxing before or after dinner. A separate bar area features over-size chairs reminiscent of Alice in Wonderland and a special temperature-controlled, air-controlled, by-the-glass wine serving system. With 32 types of wine available by the glass, you can secure a card and serve yourself as you please…changing by the course or as the mood suits.

We were 12 people and so we ended up with a large table in the corner. The Lazy Susan carousel in the center of the table made it obvious that Mr. & Mrs. Bund advocates the spirit of sharing. With that in mind and after a quick chat with the congenial and gracious manager Rene, we decided to let the chef put together a range of house specialties for us to try. Considering that we represented a mélange of 7 nationalities and 4 of the diners were vegetarian, we upped the challenge for the kitchen. But what followed not only did not disappoint, it was inspiring. Before the food arrived there was no shortage of dynamic conversation, but once the food arrived…the group quieted. The focus was on, as it should be, the culinary creativity, whimsical presentations and quality represented. After the initial oohing and aahing stopped, conversation resumed…but it was all about the food. No more discussions of business or vacation plans, it was exclamations of surprise and delight. We laughed, we cried and the meal became a part of us.

What was so spectacular, you ask? Well, I suppose the only place to start is at the beginning. Our taste buds were awakened with an amuse bouche from the chef – a tuna mousse served playfully in a re-purposed tuna can with crispy toast points. The mousse was airy yet fully of peppery, tuna flavor, a perfect warm up for what was to follow.

Next we were greeted with two dishes, Large Steamed Asparagus with Foamed Hollandaise and the house’s signature Picnic Chicken, carved tableside and served with greens and garlic aioli. It was no mystery why the Picnic Chicken is so popular. It was perhaps the most succulent and tender chicken I have enjoyed in recent memory, and the flavour was subtly and expertly enhanced with a generous side of aioli.

Next followed the Foie Gras Crumble. Oh my! This was perhaps the table’s favourite. The combination of the green apple jelly accents, the perfectly executed foie gras and a crumbled fruit topping was haunting. My heart beats faster as I recall the sensual blend of flavours and textures in every bite.

Just when we thought it couldn’t get any better, the Steamed Prawns arrived. Not just any steamed prawns, mind you…these were steamed in a large glass Mason jar with citrus, lemongrass and vanilla. I am not sure what was more exciting the flavour or the presentation.

The vegetarians were delighted with the Risotto Truffle and Paris. A risotto with white truffles, Paris mushrooms, parmigiano and a light meuniere. In fact there was a tussle with the meat eaters over this dish and to keep the peace we ordered a second serving 

Next up was Meuniere Bread, a toasted bread dredged in a light meuniere with truffle and lemon foam. It was up there with the Foie Gras Crumble as an unexpected star of the evening. If I could enjoy this daily, I would. It was beyond mouthwatering…this high-brow comfort food was totally addictive. I surreptitiously eyed my neighbor who was also enamored with this dish in order to see if I could secure the last bite.

We were startled and amazed when the Beef Long Ribs with Terriyaki Glaze, Organge Reduction and Garlic Chips showed up. These were simply enormous ribs. The large bones protruding gave them a bit of caveman Flinestones feeling. I felt purely carnivorous digging into the tender, juicy yet toothsome meat.

Finally was the Black Cod in the Bag. Another creative and whimsical presentation of black cod steamed in a heat proof bag with Cantonese sauce and assembled tableside. The delicate flavours of the fish greatly enhanced with the sauce, made for an exciting rendition of steamed fish, which can normally be a bit boring. Yes, this dish was anything but boring.

Finally, dessert. We were stuffed, so we asked if they could keep it simple. The resulting answer was yes and no. While the tastes were simply, honest, bright and fresh, the presentation and sophistication was complex and impressive. First was Chocolate Very Melting – a steamed chocolate bun, vanilla ice cream, topped with a meringue and raspberry coulis and liquor. It is just a wee bit brispy on the outside and as the name suggests, melty on the inside – in a word, heaven.

Next up was the Lemon & Lemon Tart. This seemingly simple dish takes 72 hours to prepare. A candied lemon is filled with lemon sorbet, lemon curd and vanilla chantilly. Because the lemon is candied, its not just a vessel for serving, but is actually a part of the dish to be eaten. Loving lemon, this for me was the pièce de résistance of the  meal.

So the food was amazing, no doubt. But it was more than that which made the experience truly memorable. For one, the waiters were truly knowledgeable about all the dishes and actually seemed like they were having…gasp…fun. The serve yourself wine cooler was a huge hit and took a bit of the preciousness (in a good way) out of ordering wines. The music was a blend of Simon & Garfunkel, Michael Jackson, AC/DC, French Jazz, etc. which further contributed to the convivial and festive vibe.

In the end, we were 12 people (again with 7 nationalities represented), all with different culinary tastes, some drinkers and some non-drinkers…pretty much an impossible group to please. But there wasn’t one person that didn’t leave with a big smile on their face after dining at Mr. & Mrs. Bund. Many of my guests actually thanked me for choosing a place that inspired such a fun and memorable night.

This was the most unfussy French dining experience I have ever experienced – and I loved it. Who knew fine French dining could be so much fun! ?

PS – Mr. & Mrs. Bund stays open until 4am Tues – Sat, so if you are out having drinks and fancy a bite, keep the party going and head over late night.

Mr & Mrs Bund
Bund 18, 6th Floor
18 Zhong Shan Dong Yi Road
Shanghai, China
Telephone: +86 21 6323 9898

A birds eye view on the Bund and fine French dining from the 36^th Floor of the Shangri La Hotel

I think we might be addicted to multi-course degustation menus. You might think this is lazy, to let the chef pick for you. But in reality it is the diner’s best opportunity to see what the chef can really do – his highlight reel in a way. And as the keen observers of culinary trends that our readers no doubt are, you will notice this is all the rage. Maybe it has something to do with the new “rock star” or “celebrity chef” culture, maybe it is diners’ increasing demand for the best quality…whatever it is, this is what we tend to order when it is available. And so on a recent visit to Jade on 36 in Shanghai at the Shangri La Hotel, we decided to give their 5 course tasting menu a run through.

There were actually 2 gastronomic tasting menus on offer – the Acqua and the Firma. The Acqua inspired by all things sea (538 RMB / $ USD / S$) and the Firma (688 RMB / $ USD / S$) inspired by all things land or meat. There were 4 of us dining that night and we split evenly down the middle – 2 ordering the Acqua and 2 ordering the Firma. How convenient!

The Acqua menu consisted of:

• L’Ormeau– lightly pan seared abalone with tomato compote & eggplant dressing
• Les Moules – creamy mussel soup with vegetables julienne
• Darne de Turbot – turbot fish with capers, lemon, potato & chicken jus
• Citron – lemon meringue tart with basil syrup
• Petit fours – with coffee or tea

The Firma menu consisted of:

• Foie Gras D’oie – goose liver terrine with truffles, Muscat jelly & raspberry dressing
• St Germain – yellow split pea soup with croutons & bacon
• Escargots – pan fried snails vineyard style & French toast with sweet spices
• Boeuf Wagyu – wagyu beef sirloin with seasonal vegetables, shallots & pepper sauce
• Macaroon – chestnut macaroon & vanilla poached pears with coffee or tea

As is customary these days, we started with a surprise amuse bouche from the chef – a pea soup with coconut foam and cheese cracker. It was a classic rendition of pea soup slightly modernized. I used to be a foam cynic, thinking that they were a bit pretentious and typically superfluous, but I must admit I am coming around… the burst of coconut added an unexpected twist that was appreciated. The cheese cracker, however, was a really a taste afterthought.

In general while both gastronomic menus read as quite innovative and tempting, I will say we were a bit let down in some cases by the execution on a few dishes. Somehow the concepts were more impressive than the actual dishes. For example, the pan fried snails and french toast which should have been an intriguing juxtaposition of flavour profiles but instead was, in a word, bland. Also the abalone which should have been a delicacy exalted to the next level, was instead rather ordinary.

Interior a mix of modern and Chinese styles

And while the dishes named above were somewhat disappointing, I would love to be able to tell you about the real standouts. But looking back at the meal, nothing actually does stand out. Most of the other items were executed with a certain degree of competence, but somehow lacked the depth and soul one expects of a gastronomic tasting menu.

Jade 36 dining with a view of the bund

Who knows…maybe it was an off night. Certainly the service was spotty. The waiter was not terribly attentive and when he was there he seemed uncomfortable and downright anxious. In fact, he was so nervous he served my wine in my water glass – which was already full of water!

In summary while I would say this is a lovely site for a meal with a view, the tasting menu simply didn’t stand up to our level of expectations. I think I would prefer to go to some old favorites like M on the Bund or Jean Georges before returning to Jade on 36 any time soon.  That said, the bar area provides a lovely spot to have a drink and a view of the Bund, so perhaps this is the way to go when visiting Jade on 36.

Jade on 36, Shangri La Hotel
Tower 2, Pudong Shangri-La, 36th fl, 33 Fucheng Rd
Shanghai, China

Telephone: +86 (21) 6882 3636

A minimalist urban sanctuary on the Bund

I had read about the Evian Spa several times over the last couple of years, but somehow never found the time to visit. I often go to Shanghai for work, but it is all rushing around to meetings and work dinners…so while I have often had the opportunity to dine luxuriously, it was always harder to find time to relax. But one of my New Year’s resolutions this year is to create balance in my life. Yes, I work hard…a lot of us do…but I made a commitment to carve out time for self care in 2010 and so on my most recent trip to Shanghai I made a point to visit the Evian Spa in Shanghai.

I have frequented the address of Three on the Bund in the past, dining at Jean Georges, Nougatine, New Heights and Laris, but I had never gotten off at the 2^nd floor at the Evian Spa. Immediately upon exiting the elevator, I felt a sense of calm. An oasis of calming white minimalist design greeted me and interestingly, I noticed both the presence and absence of some things. For one the often heavy smell of lemongrass and lavender was missing…instead there was a very slight scent which was a cross between crisp linen and a spring waterfall – gentle and fresh but not overwhelming. And then present were flowing white curtains and strategically placed rocks which brought an element of nature into the otherwise urban setting. The overall effect was that of a minimalist urban sanctuary.

My therapist, Elaine, was already waiting. I had pre-booked a 1 hour massage, but I still had to choose which kind. When faced with the endless spa menu, I wished I had planned some extra time….because beyond the 1 hour massage, there were so many things I wanted to do. Not only does Evian Spa have lots of traditional spa treatments like massage, scrubs and manicures, but they also have a whole Clarins range of treatments for face and body. Beyond that they were also offering Endermologie Lipomassage…this impressed me simply because I work in skin care product development and Endermologie is the only proven treatment for cellulite (I could write a whole story on what works and what doesn’t in skin care, but that would get rather off topic in this context.) So when I saw that they were offering this rather than the typical overpromising “slimming treatments,” I was assured that the Evian Spa was serious minded about their treatments.

I opted for the Traditional Chinese Massage for 1 hour (680 RMB / S$141 / $100 USD). I have become addicted to Tui na as it is called in Traditional Chinese Medicine because of its ability to melt the knots that seem to plague me in my shoulders and neck. It’s firm, but not as firm as Thai massage (read: occasionally painful) and a bit more focused on releasing muscles versus the relaxing but not so deep Swedish massage popular in the West. OK – I realize I probably sound a bit like Goldilocks….not too hard, not too soft…but perfect pressure is a fine art.

My massage at Evian started with a foot bath strewn with rose petals and a brief oil massage for my calves and feet. My therapist Elaine noticed puffy ankles (most likely from flying overnight from Singapore) and inquired if I often had trouble with circulation. This attentiveness extended to the massage treatment where Elaine noticed my shoulders were tight and that my neck had a few knots. She expertly focused on these areas and also was generous enough to provide some stretching tips to help release these on a regular basis. Also, I think the heated massage table helped – as many spas as I have been to in my day, the heated table was a first! And an absolutely pleasant one. It may not be a polite comparison, but it was like the first time I used a heated toilet in Japan and I wondered why everyone wasn’t doing this. A heated table tremendously enhances the entire experience.

At the end of the massage, I really struggled to peel myself off the heated table. I was so blissful and so comfortable….a puddle of relaxation. And then I remembered, this was a New Year’s resolution! Wow, this beats giving up chocolate or quitting smoking, or whatever it is that most people vow on January 1.

When in Shanghai, I will make a point to visit the Evian Spa. While there are no doubt cheaper options, I think it is worth the splurge. And if you really want to go all out, go to the Evian Spa and then treat yourself to a glass of wine and truffle fontina pizza at Nougatine – it doesn’t get any better than this.

Evian Spa
2/F, 3 Zhongshan Dong Yi Lu,
Huangpu near Guangdong Lu
Shanghai 200002 China
Telephone: +86 (21) 6321 6622

Fine dining has some how become synonymous with epic, bank account reducing gastronomic menus. While these are great (and sometimes life changing) you’re probably not going to want them every night of the week. Most nights you just want great food, reasonably priced and if there is great service, all the better. In Shanghai, that’s Nougatine.

Nougatine is an idea borrowed from Jean-Georges’ NYC restaurant. It serves bistro-style food in the re-purposed bar area of Jean Georges at 3 on the Bund in Shanghai. There’s a 3-course prix fixe dinner for only 250 RMB (about $37 USD) and various a la carte seasonal selections… I’d call them superbly executed, comfort food classics.

We recently were able to enjoy at meal at Nougatine. We’ve previously been to the Jean-Georges location in Shanghai last summer so we knew about the grand interiors…. but the warm, cozy decorations felt that much better when escaping from the cool winter air on the streets. We were handed updated menus with some exciting bistro classics as well as creative new options. The prix fixe offerings looked lovely, but there was too much to try on the regular menu… so we opted to go family style. 

We split 3 appetizers between the 3 of us. The highlight for everyone was the Truffle Fontina Pizza (148 RMB or about $20 USD). The crust was light and crispy and perfectly seasoned, absorbing the truffles and transforming something as common as a pizza into a simple yet sophisticated culinary delight.

Next was the Warm Asparagus Salad (68 RMB about $10 USD) – the asparagus was perfectly cooked and dressed with care. An excellently executed and exciting veggie dish… no small feat.

Lastly for the first course were the Crunchy Crab Beignets. Great crab flavor and balance of textures. The sauce, as is always the case with Jean-Georges, helped elevate the dish into something refined.

Then it was time for the main courses. Joanna had the Slow Cooked Salmon with Braised Mushroom, Onion Compote and Dill. Grilled salmon is Joanna’s new comfort food and this was an excellent rendition of it.

I wanted to go for the Roast Chicken as I’d read so much about it and absolutely love Roast Chicken… but let my mind get the better of me. You see, I thought I’d be “lame” if I ordered such a basic dish on this night out. In the end I ended up ordering another dish, going with the Carmelized Beef Tenderloin with Herbal Spinach, Crunchy Potato and Bearnaise Sauce. Mostly because I was in the mood for some spinach and have been reading a lot about Bearnaise sauce. The steak was cooked to perfection (it’s hard to get a proper medium rare steak in Asia) with a great carmelization on the meat. The Bearnaise was frothy and had a rich, complex flavor. Our dinner guest Matthew even tried it with the bread and found it delicious :)

Lastly Matthew ordered the Roasted Red Snapper, Leek and Pistachio Fondue with a Spice Vinaigrette. When I asked him about his fish, he replied simply, “amazing”. We all had a bite and had to agree.

I have a rule to try and order anything with the name of the restaurant or special next to it (though I didn’t get the Jean-Georges burger) and so had to order the JG Chocolate Cake. The molten cake here makes the ones served other restaurants taste like cardboard with Hershey’s syrup poured on top.

Joanna went with the Creme Fraiche Cheesecake with Sour Cherry Compote. She said it was one of the best cheesecakes she’s had in a long time… no small thing for a New Yorker to say.

Matthew had the Calamansi Lime Tart with Thai Chili Mascarpone Cream. A dessert that could have easily failed given the unusual flavor combinations… but this is just the kind of thing one should order when at Jean-Georges as it is this deep knowledge of flavor profiles and the way ingredients work together that raises him to the level he’s at today. If there’s some unusual items placed together on a menu… you can be sure it works.

After dinner we sat back and reflected on the dinner over cappuccinos. I lamented the fact that there’s nothing similar in Singapore… if there was I’d be eat there at least once a week. The value at Nougatine is excellent. The quality of food coming out of the kitchen is miles beyond similarly priced meals coming out of other restaurants. Add to that the stunning atmosphere and impeccably trained service staff and you have a real winner.

Since we regularly stay just up the street at the Westin when in Shanghai on business I see myself stopping by here at least once on every visit. If not for a meal, then just a drink at the bar and a snack of Truffle Pizza… can’t imagine a better afternoon treat

Nougatine (Jean-Georges on the Bund)
No. 3 on the Bund, 4th Floor
3 Zhong Shan Dong Yi Road
Shanghai, China 200002
Telephone: +86 21 6321 7733

Spectacular dining and views to match at this Shanghai gem

Lately I have been getting to Shanghai more often for work. M on the Bund is right around the corner from the Westin Bund Center where I usually stay. Convenience is certainly a plus, but what really keeps me coming back is the fantastic menu and Bund skyline views. So I was excited this time to be able to visit with Paul (instead of the usual business dinner), and share M on the Bund with him.

While the terrace was closed this time of year due to weather, we managed to score a window front table overlooking the Bund. M has a bird’s eye view on the Bund, from their 7^th floor perch of a historic building from the 1920’s. The view is stunning….and watching the sparkling lights of Pudong across the river and the boats cruise down the river is mesmerizing.

But even more mesmerizing than the view is the menu. In fact, Paul stared at the menu for a full 15 minutes and finally proclaimed, “I haven’t seen anything I don’t want.” Completely flummoxed by the conundrum of several attractive choices, Paul finally sought out the help of the gracious manager, Prue, to recommend some signature dishes.

Along with some signature dishes which have remained, the menu has evolved to a winter themed affair with lots of hearty dishes…satisfying and comforting in a way winter food should be. And that’s one of the nice things about M on the Bund. They have been around for over a decade (since 1999), but aren’t afraid to evolve and grow. And I also like that they keep it fresh with seasonal offerings. Prue recommended a few starters and some main courses (serendipitously one I was already eyeing …we were still hard pressed to choose, so we ordered several dishes. New Year’s resolutions be damned!

To start, Paul chose the Soup of Onion and Almonds Spiked with Sherry and flavored with Marjoram (78RMB / S$15.80 / $11.40 USD), while I chose to start with the Prawn and Crab Bisque with Prawn and Sesame Toast (78RMB / S$17.85 / $12.84 USD). Both soups were rich and satisfying. Paul’s in particular had a unique flavour profile, and I do think he chose it out of curiosity more than anything, and it worked splendidly. In fact, it was one of his favourite dishes of the evening.

For our next course, we chose 3 different dishes. The first was Audacious Aubergines (78RMB / S$19.48 / $14 USD), a trio of aubergines or eggplant. This may have been one of my preferred dishes of the evening. The first preparation was reminiscent of a Turkish dish I love (patlican salatasi)…a smoky, grilled eggplant mashed with olive oil in garlic. M’s interpretation of this dish featured tahini and mint and was divine. The other 2 preparations were also simple and rustic, diced with olives, almonds and parsley and then also rolled with red peppers.

The second dish was Pigeon Twice Cooked with Boudin Noir and Spicy Harissa (118RMB / S$24 / $17.22 USD). Paul usually doesn’t like pigeon and I must admit, I had never tried it before (despite it being a very common Asian dish, somehow thinking about eating it always brought dirty NYC pigeons to mind.). However, I think this dish transformed both of our pigeon prejudices. It was crispy on the outside and juicy on the inside, a result apparently ensured by the 2x cooking process. I particularly enjoyed the spicy and smoky harissa to further add depth to the flavour of the pigeon.

Our third appetizer was one of Paul’s favourites, Seared scallops on Cauliflower Puree with Cauliflower Florets, Pine Nuts and Sultanas (108RMB / S$24 / $17.22 USD). He described it as “scallops with a kick” and felt like the chef had succeeded in elevating what can be a very common dish these days.

And finally the mains… I ordered M’s Crispy Suckling Pig with roasted root vegetables, baked apples and “a good pig sauce” (258RMB / S$52.34 / $37.65 USD). I had my eye on this since I had checked the website the day prior. This is a destination dish – go to M and have this, I implore you. The skin was indeed a mouthful of crispy goodness….crunchy and crackly and full of flavour. While the pork was supremely succulent, its tender meat nearly melted in my mouth. The carmelized onions and beets should not be overlooked as a mere side dish, but rather are an integral part of the plate. While the small, sweet apples served their role to cut the fat and add a bit of brightness. Wow.

A dish so sexy it needs to be seen at various angles

Paul chose the Slow Baked Salt-Encased Leg of Lamb with fondant sweet potato, sautéed spinach and fennel and parsley salad (258RMB / S$52.34 / $37.65 USD). It was perfectly cooked mid-rare and Paul remarked it was almost like a brisket…. moist and fork tender.

We really shouldn’t have, and I mean we really shouldn’t have…but we moved on to dessert. Somehow no matter how full I am there seems to be a special place in my stomach for dessert. Again lots of tough choices, so we decided not to choose at all and went with the M’s Truly Grand Dessert Platter (128RMB / S$26 / $18.68 USD). The dessert sampler is an assortment of M’s desserts including a strawberry soufflé, the famous chocolate cake covered in gold leaf, panacotta e crostoli, poppyseed galette, a mini apple tart, M’s famous Pavlova and 2 ice creams. M suggests a minimum of 2 people, and we did put a significant dent in it, but it is wildly extravagant and maybe more appropriate for 3-4 people. Paul’s favourite was the chocolate cake covered in gold leaf, super rich and fudgy, it is hard to resist. While for me, I preferred the Pavlova, its light texture and crispy meringue topped in fruit was somehow rich and yet light…heavenly and yet sinful.

As we wrapped up the meal, we agreed while the view is no doubt stunning, it is the food that will keep us coming back. And this is really refreshing, because in my opinion there are too many “restaurants with a view” that coast on their locale and serve mediocre food – but not Mon the Bund. And we are not alone in this opinion. M  on the Bund has countless awards, was recently named in Miele Guide’s Top 20 restaurants of Asia yet again in 2010 (they were also on the 2008 and 2009 list)., “Most Popular Restaurant” by Shanghai Zagat readers, and many, many more.

Tips:

To make a night of it, try Glamour Bar for glam cocktails before or after dining at M on the Bund. This is M’s oh so chic cousin on the 6^th floor of the same building.

Also, if you are new to Shanghai, ask for M on the Bund’s complementary mini guide – a hihglights list of great shopping, gallery, nightlife and dining recommendations.

M on the Bund
Locations also in Beijing and Hong Kong
7/F, No.5 The Bund ( corner of Guangdong Lu )
Shanghai 200002 China
Telephone: +86 (21) 6350 9988

Why is it that Jean Georges seems to define the various culinary chapters of my life?

I first became aware of Jean Georges Vongerichten when I was living in New York. I was in advertising…it was the early 1990’s…expense accounts were fat (people in America not just yet;)…and I was just learning what it meant to eat really well. My first meal with JG, as he is known by foodies worldwide, was at JoJo in 1992. Funny because this is also my mother’s nickname for me, but personal coincidences aside, this was the meal that transformed me. Three courses of wonderment later, my eyes were opened to the startling possibilities of cuisine which pretty much put me on the trajectory of culinary exploration I have been on ever since.

After that was Vong…a Thai French fusion restaurant just 2 blocks north of my office. It became a regular lunch time haunt – and ironically my first taste of Thai food. JG actually worked at the Oriental Hotel in Bangkok early in his career so masterfully blended the styles. Little did I know then that the silky coconut milk and lemongrass infused broths and papaya salads would become my daily rations when I moved to Thailand some 10 years later.

Then in the late 1990’s Mercer Kitchen was the place to be – convivial NYers rubbing elbows at its communal tables. In 2004, Spice Kitchen ignited the whole Meat Packing District craze while Perry Street somehow brought a fresh perspective to traditional, old stomping grounds in the West Village. Somehow in retelling this tale, I realize many of my NY eras of living prominently feature JG restaurants. How did this man know exactly where I (and everyone else) wanted to be and what we wanted to eat?

And so it was no surprise that Jean Georges is now writing a new Asian chapter in my life in Asia. In Shanghai, the copper painted ceilings and dark, woody environs of Jean Georges’ restaurant evoke a NY contemporary feel, while the view of the Bund with its meandering Chinese junks on the river leaves no doubt one is in China. It’s romantic, yet co-worker appropriate…exclusive, yet welcoming….posh, yet comfortable. How does JG manage to strike just the right chord every time?

Paul decides on the 3 course set menu, which is a surprisingly good value at 250 RMB / $37 USD, featuring a nice selection of Asian inspired dishes:

1^st course
Tuna tartar, avocado, spicy radish and ginger marinade (PAUL’s PICK)
OR
Crispy Calamari, Yuzu Dip and Pickled Chilli

2^nd course
Pan Roasted Red Snapper, Coconut Lime Sauce & Sauteed Green Beans (PAUL’s PICK)
OR
JG Burger with fries (really?!?!?!?)

3^rd course
JG Molten Chocolate Cake with Vanilla Ice Cream (PAUL’s PICK)
OR
Poached White Peach with Berry Sauce, Almond and Sesame

I order a la carte, selecting the Foie Gras Brulee with Sweet & Sour Pineapple Compote (118 RMB / $17 USD) followed by the Pan Seared Salmon with Roasted Porcini, Green Chilli and Garlic (158 RMB / $23 USD) and the Crème Fraiche Cheesecake with Sour Cherry Compote (58 RMB / $8 USD)

Paul loved the tartar, but wished it had been lighter on the ginger and citrus…somehow the tuna got lost in the mix.

Whereas the foie gras brulee was excellent – simultaneously rich and sweet with the caramelized top, yet when combined with the pineapple the flavour profile is deftly transformed…a rich, creamy mouthful melting into a burst of freshness. Too bad that the presentation was a little less compelling – the circular shape of the foie gras was reminiscent of a sausage patty, but I was willing to overlook this small detail after tasting the dish.

The salmon was full of punches of lemon mellowed by a brown sauce. I loved the small, artistic touch of a cracker of fish skin perched rakishly on the plate.

Paul’s fish was also good, but I had clearly made the better choice.

And then the desserts…I was simultaneously relieved and disappointed by the dainty sizes of the desserts. This food reviewing is tough on the waistline, but then again dessert is typically my favorite part of the meal. Paul’s molten chocolate cake was as expected – deliciously rich and decadent, comforting in its perfect rendition of a crowd pleasing favorite.

My Crème Fraiche Cheesecake was simply lovely with the sour cherry sauce playing its necessary role to cut the richness of the crème fraiche.

What can I say, it was a lovely meal. I think next time we will probably not order the set menu, only because somehow the a la carte choices were less predictable and better executed. But all in all JG never disappoints, so it is hard to imagine ever making a bad choice.

When in Shanghai, you simply must get to Jean Georges. And to finish off a perfectly chic evening, head to the neighbouring Glamour Bar.

Jean Goerges on the Bund
No. 3 on the Bund, 4^th Floor
3 Zhong Shan Dong Yi Road
Shanghai, China 200002
Telephone: +86 21 6321 7733

An oft-recommend restaurant on the Bund…can it live up to the hype?

I had been meaning to get to Whampoa Club for a while. It has been recommended several times but somehow in my many trips to Shanghai I often ended up elsewhere. Having had the occasion to try it this time I was excited to see what it is about. Will the pan-Asian flair really be so inventive? Will open up new worlds for me in Chinese cuisine? With locations in Shanghai and Beijing – would Whampoa Club be my new favourite haunt when in China?

Whampoa Club presents Hong Kong chef Jereme Leung’s take on Hunan, Shanghai and Sichuan cuisines in the well-known address of 3 on the Bund, rubbing elbows with the likes of Jean Georges and Laris. Seems I always end up in this famous fine dining neighborhood of Shanghai, being a regular at the Westin on the Bund during my frequent business trips to the city. And so it was that we found ourselves at Whampoa Club looking forward to some inspired Chinese cuisine.

As is often the case on Asian menus, it seems the more descriptive text is in the local language and so the dishes themselves are described quite simply.  I really do miss the evocative descriptions on menus - for me it is a kind of culinary foreplay to the main event. In fact, I have often fancied being a menu copywriter – when done well, the way the words are strung together in menu descriptions can be a culinary poetry that sings to the diner.  Since this was not the case on this particular menu and given its seemingly endless number of pages (15+), we asked our server what they were famous for and what she would recommend.

And so we found ourselves with an assortment of dishes including Crispy Beef Strips with sun-dried pickles and orange peel (68 RMB / $ 9.96 USD / $S 14.54); the chef’s signature Deep Fried King Prawn coated with a Wasabi Dressing and Crispy Prawn Flakes (188 RMB / $ 27.55 USD / $S 40.21); Sauteed Chicken with Fresh Mango and assorted peppers (88 RMB / $ 12.90 USD / $S 18.82); and finally an order of Pork Buns (68 RMB / $ 9.96 USD / $S 14.54).

The King Prawn was the standout dish of the evening– cooked perfectly in a lightly crispy coating and drizzled with a judicious amount of sauce lightly seasoned with wasabi. Being not a huge fan of wasabi, I was pleased that it was not a overwhelming aspect of the dish and allowed the other tastes to hold their own. The shrimp actually reminded me of a favorite dish from a Cantonese restaurant called Chiam in New York City – I haven’t eaten at Chiam in probably 5-7 years, but when I lived in that area of Manhattan, there was a dish called Grand Marnier Prawns that I used to crave fortnightly.

The Pork Bun was a cross between a bun and a potsticker – crispy on the bottom and fluffy on the top. While it was hard to criticize per se, I am not sure this Pork Bun was any better than your typical street food dim sum buns, which are quite good anyway and at a fraction of the price. The Chicken and Mango dish was simple, but enjoyable, with the perfectly ripe mango contributing the expected freshness to the saucy chicken. Sadly, the beef was rather forgettable…a little dry and excessively tough and chewy.

While individual dishes like the King Prawn did stand out, I kept asking myself what is holding me back from a wholehearted recommendation of Whampoa Club?  And on the final analysis I have to say there are simply far more spectacular fine dining options simply an elevator ride away on at 3 on the Bund or even across the street at 5 on the Bund in Shanghai. Yes, Whampoa Club features a Bund view (“bund” meaning the embanked riverfront for which Shanghai is famous), but the overall ambiance of the place was an odd combination of grand Chinese decor and modern Mondrian inspired color panels. A combination that frankly should be reconsidered and somehow even though it features timeless design references, manages to give an overall feeling of the place being a bit tired and dated. The too bright lighting inside didn’t help matters much either. And to be honest all this combined did effect my enjoyment of the food. Don’t get me wrong, I eat noodles on the street with motorcycles whizzing by and am perfectly happy…but when one goes to the oh-so-luxe Bund, one expects a more refined aesthetic.

The jarring décor combined with good, but not excellent cuisine, makes me think that next time I will choose a slightly more exalted dining option on the Bund…maybe M on the Bund again, or Jean Georges. Since the aforementioned options are all rather international in nature, if I am really craving Chinese food, I’d probably head back to my old friend South Beauty instead, a Shanghai classic fine dining restaurant where one can be sure to get tasty, reliable and elegant Chinese cuisine in a lovely setting.

Whampoa Club
3 on the Bund, 5th Floor
Zhong Shan Dong Yi Road
Shanghai, China
Telephone: +86 21 6321 3737

Pictures from Whompao Club via Just the Planet

Beautiful people and glamourous cocktails and this river-view stunner

In the vein of big city bars with a view is The Glamour Bar on the Bund in Shanghai. I tend to have an affinity for Glamour Bar though, over say, the usual bar-with-a-view spots in Asia, e.g. Vertigo in Bangkok, Skybar in Kuala Lumpur or Felix at the Peninsula Hong Kong. Unlike many of its sleek, chic cousins, The Glamour Bar is bursting with personality…like your outrageous gay friend decked out in his most fabulous ensemble. It’s fun, lively, spirited and a little cheeky.

While honestly we are really more beer and wine drinkers, when we go to Glamour we like to experiment with the Signature Cocktails – just reading the menu is entertaining, with its cute and clever cocktail copy. On our last visit, Paul had the Scottish Crush, a signature cocktail of whiskey, mint and lemon juice topped with ginger beer.

I ordered the Pear Collins, a variation on the classic Tom Collins with gin, pear nectar and lemon topped with soda (both 88 RMB / $ 12.90 USD / $S 18.82).

The other thing I love about Glamour Bar is that the staff is super exuberant and friendly – none of the stiff, too-cool-for-school attitude you might find at a bar of a similar calibre in say New York or London. And all this with a stunning view of the Bund! A tip, while each table does indeed contain the requisite amount of glamour to ensure a good experience, for a truly luxe experience ask for a seat by the windows (book ahead on Fridays or Saturdays) and watch the brightly lit tour boats cruise down the Bund.

So next time you are in Shanghai, get yourself to The Glamour Bar. While it might not be a venue for hard core drinking (it is a wee bit expensive), I would highly recommend starting or ending your evening with a drink at The Glamour Bar. And then head upstairs to M on the Bund for dinner and visit one of the most famous and luxurious restaurants of Shanghai (where the view is actually even more stunning on the M on the Bund roof deck).

The Glamour Bar
from 5pm – late
6th floor
5 on the Bund (corner of Guangdong Lu)
Shanghai, China
Telephone: +86 21 6329 3751 or 6350 9988