1. Belgian Beer Tour

I am fascinated with trappist ales and such. For years I have wanted to rent a car and drive around to various pubs and abbeys to educate myself and of course liberally sample Belgian ales. (and eat my weight in Moules Frites) The only thing holding me back from this trip is a companion. It’s not exactly exciting to go beer tasting alone and I haven’t found a traveling companion similarly inspired by Belgian ale.

2. Camino de Compostella

This is a new addition to my list after watching the movie “The Way.” Martin Sheen plays a man who becomes an unlikely pilgrim on the Camino. What is the Camino? It is a road that spans from the French Pyrrenees to Galicia Spain to a UNESCO world heritage catherdral. The grounds contain a Roman cemetary from the 4th century where legend suggests the apostle Saint James is buried there. It’s not religion that drives my interest but more the journey. I never did the backpacking thing in my 20′s, so why is it I want to try my hand at it in my (late) 30′s? I am looking to find a different kind of comaraderie on the road. I am not interested in drunken evenings in youth hostels. I would like to do something that might shift something inside of me, see breathtaking scenery on the ground under my own feet, push myself to my limits to walk / hike 780 km (484 mi) and while of course meeting people, no doubt spend time in solitude and consider life. The key barrier to this trip isn’t money, it’s time. This walk can take 2-3 months.

3. SCUBA Diving at Sipadan, Malaysia

Off the coast of Borneo lies Sipadan, an environmentally protected island purported to be one of the best dive sites in the world. And only 120 dives are allowed daily. One can see turtles, parrot fish, barracuda, reef shark and 3,000 other species of fish. Actually this trip is totally achieveable considering I am based in Shanghai. But somehow after 5 years in Asia I haven’t managed to get there. It’s time to make this a priority!

4. Cuba

Us Americans are prohibited from entering Cuba legally. That said, I know plenty of people that have been. It has been described as a step back in time, as if the world stopped sometime in the 1950′s with classic cars, women in curlers and transistor radios. It may be the feeling of another time or the mojitos or the desire to practice my Spanish, but I have been longing to go to Cuba for years now.

What are your dream trips for 2012 and beyond?

An unforgettable omakase sushi experience in Tokyo

Through random coincidence I recently met someone who had lived in Tokyo for 20 years. Being a Japan-o-phile, of course I picked his brain about an upcoming trip to Tokyo. I wanted to get off the beaten track and have more authentic dining experiences. I still remember an epic amiyaki meal near the Nakano stop of the Tokyo Metro that I never would have found if not guided by expert locals. And I wanted more of that, which is how I came to find myself just outside Ginza hunting down Hashida Sushi.

We traveled in a taxi with an address that seemed near Ginza, but in reality was a bit past it, in a largely residential part of Tokyo. The place itself looked like any other typical restaurant in Japan, but the meal we were about to have was anything but typical. At Hashida Sushi, Hashida has been in this location and preparing sushi for 43 years. His son Hatchi has been apprenticing for 11 years. In typical Japanese fashion when you ask Hatchi when he will be finished apprenticing under his father, he says “never.”

Hashida and Hatchi offer sushi omakase style, this means that the chef choses what to serve the diner. I am a big fan of this Japanese concept, because I personally believe it allows the chef to serve what is freshest that day and what he feels inspired to prepare. I’ll put it this way, I have never had a bad omakase meal. And one of the delightful things is you really never know what is coming next or when it will end.

So we sat at the bar and watched Hashida and Hatchi do their thing. As it turns out, the family originates from Hokkaido and the very bar we were eating at had been moved from Hokkaido and had been in the family for 6 generations. In fact the whole house / restaurant had been brought down piece by piece from Hokkaido and resconstructed in Tokyo. We felt like we were part of culinary history!

On this day, father and son served us 7 courses over lunch. The only question from the chef was to inquire if anyone in the group had allergies. Luckily, none of us did, so we were able to enjoy with abandon whatever Hashida and Hastchi had in mind for us.

The first item was a savory egg custard to whet the appetite. Next up was fatty tuna sushi and one of the first things I noticed was the size of the portion. It was beyond generous and I wondered how I was actually going to eat the whole piece in one bite. In the end, it simply was not possible, but because the tuna was melt-in-your-mouth-perfection, I didn’t mind having a second mouthful.

What followed next is simply best described as a parade of the best sushi we had ever had. There was a whole scallop sushi, an abalone sushi, a yellowtail sushi, a halibut sushi and the restaurant’s signature eel. Just when we thought it was over there was a salmon roe on top of a Japanese omelet with fresh shrimp sushi. Every item was perfection, fish at its height of freshness and expertly prepared.

At first we were ar a loss for words. Then there were several contended sighs, followed by more articulate oohs and aahs. And when we finally got our wits about us, we collectively agreed this was quite possibly the best sushi meal we had ever had the pleasure to enjoy.

Kenjiro Hashida
3-8-11, Kachidoki, Chuoh-Ku
Tokyo, Japan 104-0054
Telephone +81 3 3533 0341

What is kawaii and why is everything in Japan so cute?

“Kawaii” is the Japanese term for “cute.” And if you know anything about Japan you know kawaii reigns. The love of all things cute is found throughout Asia, but it is heightened to an art form in Japan. When I first moved to Asia I will admit, I didn’t see the allure of cuteness. It seemed childish and naive, not the stuff of “grown ups.” However, I have come full circle on cute. I might just have some Hello Kitty pens and perhaps a charm or two. I admire the cute, roly poly stuffed pandas on my adult co-workers desks. And I recently bought an umbrella in Tokyo with graphics of fat piglets in rainboots…it made me smile. Pigs. In rainboots!

But how is it that Japan has cornered the market on cute?

Kawaii is a highly valued aesthetic fully embraced in the Japanese culture and national identity. It has come to represent everything that is desirable with secondary meanings extending to “cool” and “beautiful”. Some people attribute it to the relatively controlling environment of Japan as compared to the West and suggest that this environment might infantilize adults making them more appreciate and revere childish objects. Still others say that it is “safe” to festishize cute, because in Japan non-aggressive and peaceful behaviours are rewarded. Actually, there’s no one answer on the origins of kawaii.

Kawaii is everywhere in Japan. We have all seen the Hello Kitty trinkets and such, but kawaii extends not only to consumer goods, but also to beauty. The female ideal is the large eyes and small round face characteristic of (cute) children. This is why Barbie never sold well in Japan…too real, too adult for the Japanese. Kawaii is in food – dumplings and buns are shaped into bunnies, piglets and cats. If an object can be given eyes and a mouth to make it kawaii, then it will be. Kawaii is even in sex, with the Japanese school girl being the most well-known fantasy of Japanese men. And even big business is not shy about kawaii – the national airline ANA features a gigantic Pikachu on its aircraft.

Courtesy of Now Public

There are simply no cuter random personal and household goods in the world. Take a look at a mere sampling look of what I found on a recent trip to Tokyo.

Wigs for Pets

Cute Covers for Dish Drains

Cute Face Masks

Cute Animal Egg Cups

Cute Beer Delivery Truck

And as it turns out, kawaii travels. Hello Kitty is an international sensation. Same with Pokemon and Pikachu. Felix the Cat has been widely exported. And my personal favourite is a chubby and adorable Japanese cat named “Maru.” Maru is an international sensation with his box-loving antics filmed by his owners and posted on You Tube. Maru even has a blog. In fact, there are dozens of websites dedicated to all things kawaii – seriously, google it.

Maru the Box-Loving Cat

Japan is on the path to worldwide kawaii domination. I, for one, am all for it.

A guide to one of the most relaxing and chill islands in Thailand

If you are looking for an island in Thailand where you can enjoy some of the best of the Thai beach scene, here’s why Koh Lanta should be on the short list. Lesser known than its other neighbors on the Andaman Sea like Koh Phi Phi or Krabi, Koh Lanta is at once two places – a quiet place where you can completely chill out AND a quirky, cool place to party and hang out.

I happened to go over Christmas – a time when Thailand is crawling with tourists and generally overbooked. But somehow Koh Lanta, while mostly full, still managed to keep its laid back, friendly, come-one-come-all vibe. The temperature is almost always a near perfect 28-30 C degrees, the sand is fine and white, the beaches are broad, long and perfect for long walks, the open-air bars are welcoming with no shortage of ice cold Singha beer and the sunsets are those that will strike jealousy among your friends when viewing your holiday photos.

Here are a few of my favourite places in Koh Lanta. I have no doubt you will love them and discover favourites of your own. 

Where to Sleep – recommended hotels:
There are several options when visiting Koh Lanta. My favourite area to stay is Kantiang Bay.

• An option that represents good value is Baan Lanta – this simple Thai style hotel, enjoys many return guests given its attractive prices and its location near the main beach in Kantiang Bay.
• I particularly like Eyes Lanta and its Thai-style villas spread over a rocky hill. Each one is a unique style with jungle views and beach views available. The staff is also super friendly and helpful.
• On a different part of the island (not Kantiang Bay), you can enjoy the graciousness of Thai 5-star luxury at Pimalai – the perfect choice for a getaway to remember. For those seeking a luxe option, this is it.

Where to Eat – my fave spots for a meal:
If you stay in Kantiang Bay, here are a few great places to try.

• Drunken Sailors – you can have breakfast lunch and dinner at this Thai restaurant…I know, I did! For breakfast I would recommend the Pan Fry Skillet with scrambled eggs fried chicken and bacon, or the Sunrise Sandwich with ham, egg and cheese on English muffin. For lunch or dinner, try the Seafood Glass Noodle Salad, Pad See Ew and the Burgers with Crinkle Cut Fries. And don’t miss the highly addictive shakes… the Funky Sailor (strawberry, orange banana) and the Choco Banana Frappe (which tastes like a Wendy’s Frostie with banana). The place is comfy and cozy, enhanced by the presence of 4-5 resident cats that will chill by your feet or in your lap if you like.
• Marine Park View Resort – this resort features a tiered restaurant built into the hillside over Kantiang Bay, where you can have Thai and Western favourites and over the years has proven to be consistent and reliable.
• Top View – While I prefer to eat at Drunken Sailors, here I enjoy the spring rolls, shrimp tempura and stir fried cashews nuts with a beer. Given its place on top of a large hill, thus the name, it’s a destination for sunset watching over pre-dinner drinks and snacks.
• Ba Kantiang restaurant – enjoy fantastic Thai food in a tin shack with chickens running about and karaoke performances…you cannot make this stuff up. The thing to eat here is the pork (even the locals come for it), despite the obvious presence of fresh chicken

While you are in Koh Lanta, it is worth a trip to…

• Fresh Restaurant – at Lanta Old Town in an old teak house. It’s the best in the area. Try the steamed fish with chili and lime.
• Red Snapper http://www.redsnapper-lanta.com – on another part of the island (Phra Ae) is this wonderful hideaway where a Dutch couple serves Tapas.

Where to Drink – enjoy a Singha beer or three:
Try these for a beer or a beachy cocktail.

• Why Not? – a festive bar on the beach of Kantiang Bay with live music and fire twirlers every night.
• Aqua Bar – a beachside shack cum bar that’s part of the Baan Lanta resort. It doesn’t get more chill than this.
• Shroom Bar – this (in)famous bar on Kantiang Bay is perched on the top of a hill overlooking the bay. Many agree it’s the top bar in the area.
• Eyes Lanta Poolside – for something a bit more civilized, go to the Eyes Lanta resort’s poolside area and have a sundowner over sunset in one of the cozy-chic cabanas.

What to Do – from scuba to shopping:
Fun things to do because you cannot lie on the beach every day, ot at least I can’t.

• Scubafish – these guys helped me complete my open water PADI certification and I can safely say I never met a nicer bunch of dive instructors. They know all the great dive sites in the area – in fact, we saw the elusive manta ray on one dive. They also arrange snorkeling.
• Lanta Old Town – sometimes there is a night market for shopping and eating and such. But the best time to go to Lanta Old Town is the Laanta Laanta Festival. It’s the first 2 weeks of March, it is a weeklong festival with shopping, live music, dancing, cultural exhibits, and more.
• Rent a Motorbike – for 300THB a day, feel the wind in your hair while exploring the island’s nooks and crannies.
• Get a Massage – at your hotel for 500THB or off-site for less at 300THB. A Thai beach holiday wouldn’t be complete without a few massages.

Sitting in cool and drizzly Shanghai and remembering all my favourite Koh Lanta places makes me want to make a run for the border! But I know it won’t be too long before I head back to one of my favourite chill-out spots in Thailand.

For more information, I can recommend Kantiang Bay http://www.kantiang-bay.com – it’s a super helpful resource discovering more of Koh Lanta.

I never go on group tours, I hate having others show me around, and I can’t stand being spoon-fed culture. So what am I doing perched atop a borrowed bike with a group of European tourist zipping along the busy streets of Bangkok?

It all started with a conversation with my friend Patricia who works at Spice Roads Asia. In my years in Bangkok I’ve often seen strings of cyclists exploring the sois around my home and wondered what exactly they were driving around seeing. With motorcycle taxis, tuk tuks, taxis, sky trains and good old feet as transportation options, I couldn’t imagine why anyone would risk the traffic head on riding a borrowed bike.

“We offer a variety of trips, tours, and experiences for riders of all ages,” said Patricia. “Some of our tours show hidden parts of Bangkok I bet you’ve yet to see or visit.” Granted I do spend a fair deal of my time tied to the safety grid of the BTS, but I consider myself a well-traveled expat. I asked for examples. The first suggestion, the Bangkok Jungle, was already an unknown.

Out of a sense of curiosity I signed up for the next tour without bothering to research any of the details beyond how long it would take. I did ask about the fitness level required for the trip and was assured that anyone who could ride a bike could complete the trip. I’m a slightly overweight guy who hasn’t ridden a bike in about 10 years…so I’d definitely be putting that statement to the test.

I was told to arrive at Face bar on Sukhumvit 38. This was simple enough as it’s easily accessible from BTS Thong Lor. They have you provide weight and height via email prior to the trip, so the bike and helmet are already waiting, set up, and ready to go. There’s a quick rundown of the day’s journey and then you’re off riding.

The tour started off easily enough in some back sois behind Sukhumvit 38; snaking our way to the busy Rama 4. This gave us all a chance to warm up in an area without much traffic. I quickly found myself immersed in a side of Sukhumvit that’s long been hidden to me despite living very near to these roads for 4 years. We passed through a rustic, old-world Bangkok normally obstructed by the glitz of the high rise. This is a Thai culture I’ve seen many times…but typically up north or in remote villages; not so close to home.

Before I knew it we emptied out of the sub-sois onto the major roads. It was 1 p.m. so traffic wasn’t bad, but it’s never that great on Rama 4. Riding along the busy street I was struck by how effortless biking around Bangkok was. Maybe riding in the pack of the group helped the oncoming traffic see us better, but I couldn’t believe I’d been too lazy to try this before. I felt guilty for not getting a bike and riding the 1 or 2 km to the offices.

Soon we arrived at the Klong Toey piers. These aren’t the mega piers normally seen by tourists at Saphan Taksin. These were narrow, a bit dingy, and all local. A few of the Thais had, I assume, seen the bike tours pass through before and were unfazed at the sight, but many children and elders alike were delighted to see us pass…normally a sign that it’s not a super saturated tourist area.

A short long tail boat ride across the river and we arrived at our true destination. The Bangkok Jungle, or Bang Kra Jao as locals know it, can only be reached via boat. There’s no bridges or other methods of reaching the area. Not two minutes away from the piers and we were immediately engulfed in foliage. Not the manicured stuff you’ll find in Lumpini, but raw nature – fruit trees, bugs, monitor lizards and more dirt than paved roads.

We road along easily on a small two-lane road before our tour guide Tonga (who seemed to be able to speak any language necessary on the tour) informed us that we’d now be entering a section of raised, narrow pathways. “Be sure to get off the bike and walk if you feel you can’t maneuver through any of the areas,” he told us.

Soon we were riding carefully along the paths. These aren’t paths set up for tourists at some national park. These canal paths are there for the locals living in the area and make up an intricate network of roads used to reach food, friends, and everything in between. With barely enough space for two bikes side by side we occasionally encountered locals on the way back from market on their motorcycles or bicycles. Either the group or the locals would have to stop and give way for the other to proceed. It was refreshing to see someone smiling as we rode past delaying their daily commute, instead of flipping us the bird and laying into the horn.

Soon I had no clue where I was in relation to home, but I didn’t care. The weather was a good 5-10 degrees cooler than Bangkok and lush trees covered us. Every now and then we’d get a nice, cool breeze from the area’s various creeks and streams to ease things even further.

For the first time ever on a guided tour I found myself appreciating what I was being shown. This wasn’t an exhibit or recreation of what Thailand used to be, but was how people were living today…just a few kilometers from my home. We stopped sporadically so the guide could describe a plant or point out a temple, but mostly we rode silently along, taking in the sites, sounds, and smells.

Sadly we took the trip on a Wednesday and weren’t witness to the weekend Floating market. While not as sprawling as the more famous one in the city, this is a bustling market for locals nonetheless. We did get to appreciate the many temples in the area though and even caught site of monk initiates taking a break from study with some water play in the river.

I’d like to say I was the man through the entire trip. I rode well, but honestly about 3 hours into the 4-hour trip I began to get a bit sore from the travels. Thankfully we pulled took a rest and snacked on some Thai fruits and sodas. I felt happy sitting by the river, sipping my Coke out of a glass bottle eating tiny bananas. I thought it’d be nice to spend some real time here, not just ride around it and go, but unfortunately it was time to head back or we’d get into serious issues with the Bangkok traffic.

We zig-zagged back to the pier and road back over. Now it was raining and I was worried for my camera gear. A lovely German lady on the trip offered to carry my heavy equipment in her backpack. With my gear now safe I was free to enjoy the refreshing rain as it washed our hard earned sweat away. There’s nothing quite like the feeling of not caring if it pours on you and just riding around in the rain like you used to do as a child.

Pulling back into the starting point I was a bit sad it was over, but glad to be off the seat…I was sore. In my hurry to book and lack of pre-trip research I hadn’t noticed the trip would cover 25 KM! Writing it on paper now, even after just completing the journey, it sounds like a lot…but it really is just manageable.

The Bangkok Jungle offers something actually unique and unexpected in Bangkok. I can’t believe I’ve lived here for so long with no knowledge of life like that so close by. The tour shattered all my normal hang-ups with group excursions…it was honestly interesting, showed me something I wouldn’t have seen on my own, and gave me a bit of exercise to boot. I’d recommend anyone who lives here and never heard of the Bangkok Jungle and anyone visiting Bangkok looking to visit someplace with authenticity to give it a go. Just stretch a bit first.

Spice Roads Tours
14/1-B Soi Promsi 2,
Sukhumvit 39,
Klongtan Nua, Wattana,
Bangkok, THAILAND 10110
Tel: 66-(0)2-712-5305
Mobile: 66-(0)89-895-5680

Why Shanghai is one of the most exciting cities in the world right now!

I have been coming to Shanghai now for 4 years. For those who came in the 80’s and 90’s and saw a wholly different China this will no doubt seem very recent. My Shanghai experiences have always been rich and exciting, but it wasn’t until I relocated here that I came to know the city more intimately. There are many reasons why Shanghai might just be the coolest place in the world to be right now. I won’t bang on about the economy and such, because this is widely known…instead I will share my thoughts on why Shanghai has captured my heart and why it might just capture yours as well. 

1) Architecture – from modern skyscrapers to charming lane houses
Shanghai is big – 22 million people in one city, same as the entire population of Australia. Yet because the space of the city is so big, the Chinese were able to build out, not always up. This means that while there are some super duper skyscrapers, there are more low rise buildings, fascinating architecture and lovely little lanes with 100+ year old houses. The outcome of this varied landscape is a city that is at once full of cutting edge, modern engineering masterpieces and charming little areas full of old world personality and a time gone by. It’s the seamless way these blend in modern day Shanghai that’s absolutely inspiring vs. other parts of Asia where the “old world” has been ruthlessly replaced for the sake of progress.

2) The markets – from lighting to pearls to silks

Turns out if there is a category of products there is a market for it. As I am shopping for a variety of things I have discovered a market for house plants, a market just for pets, a market for lighting (where you can buy everything from tabletop lamps to iron street lamps) and even a market for pearls. The place I keep going again and again is the fabric market, I find myself here having everything from silk dresses to silk curtains made. My friend even had a Wonder Woman outfit made for a costume party. If you can dream it, they have it in Shanghai…at some market, some where.

3) Nightlife is hot!
After having lived in NYC and Bangkok and visited a great many other cities with pulsing night life scenes, I wasn’t sure what to expect in Shanghai. But it’s all here – from cool cocktail lounges to seedy dive bars to reggae bars to slick night clubs to hard-core dance clubs to gay bars / clubs to late night girls-dancing-on-the-tables kind of places. From private parties requiring “passwords” to new opening parties it seems about every week for some new place. There’s no excuse not to go out in Shanghai – the problem is deciding where!

4) Vibrant and progressive culinary scene
I hear this is really in the last 5 years, but you cannot cross the street without running into some cool new restaurant with a chef that’s trying new things. From Mr. & Mrs. Bund to Maison Pourcel to Stiller’s to El Willy there’s an explosion of high quality European culinary destinations. And then there’s all manner of local favourites, like Lynn or Di Shui Dong.  And this is barely scratching the surface. As an expat, I also have the feeling I am only seeing a small sliver of the culinary action as well. I plan to pick my new Chinese friends’ brains on the more local places, especially after a recent street-side and mind blowing jiaozi (that’s gyoza or friend dumpling) binge.

5) A truly blooming art culture
There seems to be an irrepressible need for the Chinese to express themselves…and now that they are allowed to (as long as it is government friendly), it is as if the flood gates have opened. While Beijing is still the cultural center, Shanghai is evolving from a city of commerce to also be a city of culture. Whether it’s the Suzhou Creek Art District or Taikang Lu (admittedly less artistic and more commercial these days versus the past) or any of the galleries holding exhibitions all over town, there’s no doubt the Chinese contemporary art scene is booming.

6) Post Olympics and Expo
The Beijing 2008 Olympics have come and gone as has the 2010 Expo in Shanghai. What does this mean? It means that the country has upgraded airports, transportation, road quality and public parks at a level of investment unmatched by any time in the past. I have been traveling to Shanghai for about 4 years and I am just flabbergasted by the transformation of the Bund. It’s exactly what it could have been many years ago, but just like it takes a house move for you to clean out your closet, it takes a big international event for a country to do its housecleaning and repairs. So now in Shanghai you can enjoy flowers planted on the side of the road, slightly reduced pollution and city parks and spaces that are at their aesthetic peak.

7) Access to a vast and varied country
There are more than 160 cities in China with populations of over 1 million people. China is #2 in the ranking of the world’s most billionaires and #3 in the ranking of the world’s most millionaires. And in fact the number of billionaires rose from 64 to 115 in only 1 year! Yet under this back drop of progress and prosperity, there are still extremely rural parts of China. One of the world’s oldest civilizations is also the world’s most dichotomous in terms of economic disparity and development. What this means for the traveler is that Shanghai is the perfect perch from which to explore this 3.7 million square mile country of 33 very individual provinces. There are 40 UNESCO World Heritage sites in China. From ancient capitals like Beijing and Xi’an to old towns like Wuhan to Qufu to the beaches on Hainan Island, one could spend their whole life exploring this vast and varied country.

Tell us, why do you love Shanghai?

The environment is finally on the agenda in Asia – from jewelry to architecture to food sourcing.

I moved to Asia in 2007 – first to Bangkok, known for its pollution and traffic jams. People in Bangkok will drive their car 5 miles across town and it will take 1 hour – I think people in Bangkok love their cars more than Americans do And then I noticed recycling was not an option. Everything went in the same trash bin, everything. Even materials were not recycled – there is a love for new buildings, new construction, Italian marble and imported tiles. Having something brand new (and imported) is a sign of status. The idea of preserving old houses and materials is not totally lost, but not a part of the mainstream either. The air in Bangkok is thick and soupy, your street vendors are serving foods in Styrofoam takeout containers and daily you will see people littering on the street. With the serious and almost pious approach to the environment in the US these days, I was well…shocked. But as I began to travel and live in other countries in Asia, I met people and got a better view on various cultures, the business landscape and the economy of the region and found some really inspiring examples of sustainability.

It makes sense that sustainability is generally speaking, a higher order societal need. It stands to reason that if people’s primary needs are not being fully met (regular employment, access to clean water and a healthy diet, stable housing situation), that rinsing and recycling their aluminum cans or solar heating is not on the agenda. Discussions of carbon footprint or sustainable agriculture are largely a discussion among the educated elite. I would challenge you to go to a local food court in Singapore, the Russian Market in Phnom Phen, the streets of Bangkok or the B / C cities in China and strike up a conversation on environmental concerns. It’s commonly known, among doctors and hospitals in China, that there is a “moving to China” syndrome. It’s a respiratory infection people get from the pollution when they move to the country – it afflicts foreigners and Chinese alike. It is a direct result of the pollution in the cities. I even had a Chinese coworker who lived in London for a few years and upon return to Shanghai experienced it as well.

That said, the environment is a world concern. Certainly in large global summits like Worlds Economic Forum in Davos or the UN agenda on the environment Asia is widely discussed, but I wondered if anything was really happening at the ground level in Asia. I had to look for it, but I found it and was inspired by some of the examples.

Jean Jacques Ferron -
Jean Jacques is an architect from France. Living in NY for many years, Jean Jacques was running a successful design furniture business. After selling the business, he and his family decided to retire to Thailand. Jean Jacques was no stranger to Bangkok, he had been there many times for sourcing and buying for his business as well as for family holidays with his wife and two daughters. And here Jean Jacques started to think about reinventing his career and starting over as an architect. He was inspired by the local materials of Thailand – the clay tiles from Northern Thailand, the teak wood from old houses that could be reclaimed, and the abundant natural materials that lent themselves perfectly to the landscape. Jean Jacques started to take on projects and found a surprisingly good market for his services. I got to experience the fruits of his labor at Kamalaya – a holistic spa in Koh Samui that prides itself on its commitment to sustainable building, agriculture and community support. Kamalaya is built into a hillside of Koh Samui and feels as if a divine force intended it to be there …it so naturally co-exists with the local landscape and the buildings and villas feels at one with nature.

Doi Tung, Thailand -
If you have visited or lived in Thailand, you will know Doi Tung. Doi Tung as we know it is a retail chain of Thailand products locally made in the Doi Tung province of Chiang Rai, in Northern Thailand. From coffee and macadamia nuts to home textiles and ceramics. The products are beautifully designed things one would be proud to own (rather than folksy trinkets that are charming but not terribly useful) and are made with all local materials and workers in Doi Tung. Since the 1980’s the effort to support the people and the products of Doi Tung have been successful and is a shining example of how a community support project can also be not just economically viable but profitable.

photos by John Hardy

John Hardy, Bali, Indonesia -
John Hardy is a posh jewelry brand I knew from New York. I used to admire it in Saks Fifth Avenue and Bloomingdale’s and all the fashion “it” girls had a piece or two. It was so associated with status and luxury for me that I was surprised to learn, when visiting Bali in 2008, that John Hardy had its manufacturing operations there and was deeply committed to environmental sustainability and the betterment of the Balinese people. For the last 20 years, John Hardy was considering what was responsible for the environment – way, way before it was fashionable and trendy. It started with low impact structures built from bamboo (that are also shockingly elegant) and a relationship with an organic farmer who prepared the food for the café to today’s bike to work Fridays and sustainable advertising. Sustainable advertising was a new concept for me – basically they count every page run in advertising and then pay back the environment by planting a corresponding number of bamboo trees. The plan is for the company to be carbon emissions neutral by 2011. Even their packaging materials are carefully considered – when bamboo cloth pouches were considered for their jewelry, they learned that the process of breaking down the woody fibers to make it soft requires more chemicals and processes than even regular cotton. Bamboo boxes would have been imported from China to be packed in Bali and then shipped to Hong Kong which also didn’t meet the criteria of being environmentally friendly. Finally a simple but elegant solution was discovered – simple pressed board, using wood waste, in a classic design was chosen. Who says luxury and environmentalism cannot live in harmony?

The Chairman, Hong Kong, SAR China -
We had the opportunity to dine at The Chairman in Hong Kong recently. In speaking with one of the owners, he expressed their commitment to using local ingredients to not only have the freshest possible quality for their food, but also to help the local farmers stay in business in the face of low cost imports from mainland China. He told us stories of using only the local flowery crab from nearby waters for their famous crab dish (for which there is often a 3 month wait) as well as why their pickled ginger is so fantastically fragrant and unique vs other pickled ginger. They source it locally during the short ginger harvest season and collect it within a 2 week window at its peak. Their pork is sourced locally from a farm on Kowloon side as well as the pigeon which they get locally as well. Not only are they doing a good thing for the agricultural community of Hong Kong, they are also providing a superior class of ingredients to their customers – the crab is so fresh you can still taste the ocean water and the pigeon was succulent and tender…a far cry from your normal dry and stringy pigeon.

M. Moser & Associates, Singapore –
While a global company, I got to know M. Moser through my friend Nick in Singapore who works there. M. Moser is a design, architecture and construction firm for commercial properties specializing in building new offices for large multinational and local corporations. From water saving systems to solar heating to recycled and local materials. M. Moser has built up their “green” capabilities in Asia to service multinationals that have a global, corporate responsibility to lead the way not just in the manufacture of their products but also in their day to day operations. From the Nokia Campus in Beijing to the Siemens offices in Guangzhou, M. Moser has been busy educating their clients on how they can bring green principles to the workplace.

As it turns out there is much more going on than I was initially aware of in Asia. And these are just a few examples. Not to say that there is not room for improvement. There are still no options for recycling in my Singapore home. Being a locavore is not an option in Singapore as most foods are imported from Malaysia, Thailand, Australia and beyond. But I am positively encouraged by the efforts of those above and happy to see the sustainability agenda growing in Asia.

If YOU have any examples of environmental sustainability efforts or responsible companies in Asia, please do share them for us and our readers.

When a friend told us about this fantastic discount website, we were hooked!

I know not everyone is addicted to travel as we are. But I don’t know anyone who doesn’t get that little buzz from getting a deal, especially on travel. My friend Tracy (who’s also a travel fanatic) told me about the site http://www.jetsetter.com where they have limited time “sales” on really high-end destinations – usually resorts, spas, villas, tennis camps, surf camps and the like. Basically, all you have you just have to sign up and then every week you get an email on what destination is on sale. Sales are limited in duration, usually 4-6 days, and offer discounts on a destination for a certain period of time. For example one of the upcoming sales is for Hotel Plaza Athenee in New York City in the months of November and December. I have seen destinations from Madrid to Miami, Bali to Berlin, California to Costa Rica, Philippines to Paris, New York to Nevis, Thailand to The Bahamas…you get the point. We thought this was special enough to share with you – enjoy!

An old friend gives me the insider scoop on Prague gems over a recent visit

I was visiting an old friend of mine in Prague, Jason. Jason and his partner have been living in Prague now for 7 years and are clearly authorities on this charming and picturesque European city. Not only was I excited to visit Jason (we hadn’t seen each other in 10 years!), but also to have a chance to see the city from a more local point of view. And Jason has discerning taste and an uncompromising demand for both quality and frivolity – so I knew he would point me in the right direction for all manner of rich Prague experiences. In fact Jason is a blogger too, his blog is all about shopping. As you can imagine my tour of Prague was at the expert level – we make sure to cover some of the must do touristy places, but also managed to have some more local experiences while I got reacquainted with my old friend.

First things first, Prague is an amazing walking city. Pack your comfy shoes because if you are the sort of person that likes to explore a city on foot, there is no better place than Prague. The city is small-ish and manageable – you can easily walk from end to end in the course of a day. In fact we set out with Jason’s super cute dog, Louis, and spent the day trolling around. It turns out Prague is one of the most dog friendly cities I have ever been to. Everywhere we went they put out a doggie bowl of water for Louis (named after Louis Vuitton

You’ll want to take one of the charming trolleys for the fun of it, but it’s not totally necessary unless you are in a hurry. Oh and as the streets are cobblestones, ladies should avoid wearing anything with a heel as you will either spend the day wrenching your heel out from between stones or walking on your tiptoes to prevent it from getting stuck in the first place. In fact I had stupidly (in an effort to reduce my luggage and in a late night packing extravaganza) mistakenly shipped all my shoes from Paris back to Singapore. After about 20 minutes of walking around in my Sergio Rossi kitten heels, I hightailed it to a sporting goods store and bought a pair of Converse. So take a lesson from me and don’t forget your flat and comfy walking shoes.

Jason took us around and we explored quite a lot of places. These were the highlights and what I would recommend for a 3 day itinerary in Prague.

Sightseeing
Well there is no point in my covering the usual suspects of museums and classic sights that other guide books do. Yes you must see the Prague Castle, visit the Astronomical Clock in Old Town, tour the Museum of Communism, walk the Charles Bridge, visit the Jewish Quarter, etc. Have a look at your Frommer’s or Lonely Planet for these essentials.

Mucha Museum
However one tiny, but outstanding museum you might miss if you are not on the lookout for it is the Mucha Museum. Alphonse Mucha was an Art Nouveau painter and decorative artist. You may know him for his work on the Coca Cola ads in the early 1900’s or is Sarah Bernhardt pieces. This small gem of a museum takes you through his life and work – you can easily finish your visit within 1 hour. And by the way it also has a super cool gift shop with lots of tempting buys. I ended up leaving with a poster for Paul (who has an old graphic arts fetish) and some playing cards.

The Estates Theater
Jason made sure to point out this gem. So if you have time, attend the opera at The Estates Theatre. I myself am not a huge opera aficionado, but it will be something quite transformative to see it in such a historic venue. Opened in 1783, this is where Mozart frequently conducted his operas and in fact where Don Giovanni was premiered.

Kampa Island / Kampa Park Restaurant
Finally, if you time your walk of the Charles Bridge properly, you can walk over to Kampas Island at the end of the day. Explore the island a bit and then walk over to the Kampa Park restaurant just by the Charles Bridge where you can sit by the river and watch the boats go by as you enjoy a glass of wine and a have an appetizer or two (they are known for their fresh, high quality seafood) while the sun is setting.

Eating & Drinking
Well for starters, don’t miss Kampa Park, above. But beyond that, there are a variety of cool places to visit if you are a visitor to Prague. The list below is more about outstanding views or traditional Czech experiences versus the most exclusive restaurants in town. Although Kampa Park certainly fits in the top dining venues in town. So stay for dinner after your sunset cocktails if you are looking for a special occasion meal.

And if you are over by the Prague Castle, check out Cowboys rooftop bar and grill. It’s an excellent spot to have a drink and the burgers are quite good. Jason was telling us he brings all his guests to Cowboys because the view from the bar is simply outstanding – and it was!

Gut let’s get down to business…. in the Czech Republic, you simply must drink beer. The Czechs have a long history with beer. Starting with Budvar, the original Budweiser beer. This beer dates back to 1785, well before the launch of Anheuser Busch’s American version of Budweiser which launched in 1876. To be clear, Budvar has very little in common with the American version and is an amazing high quality Czech Pilsner. And the Czech Republic is also the home of Pilsner Urquell, the world famous pilsner of choice produced since 1842.

So you can stop in at any café in the middle of the day and enjoy a cold beer and some Czech sausages. In fact, not only can you, you should! There’s no better way to break up all the walking than with a frosty cold one. While you can do this anywhere, I will say there are 2 places that merit a special visit for drinking and eating. Once Jason knew I was interested in the Czech beer scene he made a point to take me to 2 very special places.

Riegrovy Sady
This is a park slightly outside of the center of town in the Vinohrady area. Located on a hill you can see the Prague Castle from its vantage point. Also, most notably the park houses ones of the largest and most popular beer gardens in Prague. Open from April to October, this beer garden is the place to come to watch football and other sports events on the big screen TVs. We watched the World Cup there and the crowd was rowdy but contained. Between the international crowd, the abundance of pilsner and a heated World Cup match, I was torn between people watching and keeping my eye on the game. Even Louis seemed to enjoy it with some well timed barks during excited parts of the match.

Kolkovna Group Restaurant
This restaurant is owned by the folks from Pilsner Urquell and as you may have guessed serves Pilsner Urquell and other local beers. Also it’s a really reliable place for good quality Czech food. We sat at a café table on the street and indulged in sausages, traditional Czech bread dumplings (“knedliky”) and goulash. Between a perfect summer weather, a full tummy, catching up with friends and drinking some amazing beer, it was an amazing afternoon. I would highly recommend it.

Shopping
Ok, so now here is where things get interesting. Jason always was and still is an expert shopper. So I was excited to hit the pavement and do some hard core retail exploration.

Flea Markets
We had a couple of requests for Jason…first and foremost we wanted to check out a flea market. We had heard tale of cool flea market scenes in Eastern Europe and beyond that were kind of jones-ing for antiquey, cool, old things as the flea market scene doesn’t exist in Asia (rarely are old / used things valued here). We hit the jackpot with Jason! He told us to an old school flea market, celled Kolbenova, outside of town where we found all manner of cool, idiosyncratic and just plain odd items. I was in heaven. I was tempted by all the old glass Christmas ornaments (but had to resign myself to the fact that these would not travel well) and the vintage jewelry. I ended up with a coin necklace and Jason emerged with mounted deer antlers (which look super cool in his guest bedroom) and a cool leather medicine ball.

Czech Crystal
Well if you know anything about the Czech republic, no doubt you will be familiar with Czech crystal. It can go from ornate to modern and I think my favourite examples were to be had in a store Jason took us to called Artel. Artel glass is world renowned as some of the highest quality Czech glass and has in fact received several design awards for its works. They had the coolest array of glass items from seriously chic highball glasses to bowls that would pass for works of art. This is a must if you are looking for glass or gifts to bring home.

Celetná 29 (entrance on Rybná)
Prague 1, Staré Mesto
Tel.: +420 224 815 085
Open daily: 10:00 – 20:00

Gifts, Objects d’Art & Cool Things
Lots and lots of stores…but a few of my favourites are…

Material
Lots of wonderful crystal, chandeliers, jewelry and homewares – not the ordinary assortment, but really cool, design-y type items with a chic and elegant flair.
Ungelt, Tyn 1, Stare Mesto
Telephone: + 42 775 568 667
Open daily: 10:30 – 20:00

Kubista
Kubista is part gallery / part shop and focuses on items inspired by the cubism design movement. Expect lots of modern yet retro looking items – everything from candleticks and lamps to dishes to jewelry to glassware to postcards and scarves.

Clothing & Shoes
When in Europe I always shop for clothing since it is hard to find my size in Asia. Definitely you should hit Parizska Street – it is the 5th Avenue of Prague with Prada, Louis Vuitton, Hermes, Dior, Gucci, Ferragamo and Hugo Boss mixed in with cool little, local boutiques.

Also, a few gems that Jason showed me were also quite impressive. For example a store simply called Outlet – here they had all manner of designer goods deeply discounted. From D&G to Versace to Prada to Tod’s to Armani to Etro to Ferragamo and more…,many items were up to 70% off. They have shoes (but not much past size 37), bags, clothes and accessories.
Masna 703/7, 110 00 Praha 1
Telephone: +42 222 314 827

And then there was Kali, another stand out store. Kali is a well edited boutique with both femme and glamorous garb from drapey tee’s to sequined party dressed (and lots of Diane Von Furstenberg).
Stupartska 9, Prague 1, 110 00
Telephone: +42 222 312 670

Skin Care, Organic Soaps and Wonderful Vinegars & Spices

Another must do (seriously you must go) is Dr Stuart Botanicus. This store has found millions of uses for plant essences and extracts. From face care and body wash and lovely soaps to infused oils and vinegars and seasoned salts to natural beeswax candles. Let’s just say I left with a large bag of Christmas presents.
Tyn 1, Praha 1
Telephone: +42 234-767-446

All in all Jason definitely showed us the best of Prague. And not only was it cool to visit a city I had never been to, but it was even better to reconnect with an old friend. Turns out Jason hadn’t changed one bit and we found ourselves laughing at the same old things and learning about each other’s new lives. I feel in love with the charming doggie Louis, offering to be his godmother should anything happen. And in general I fell in love with the city. Prague was a truly gorgeous city oozing with European character and elegance. And every experience from sitting on the river banks having a sundowner to learning about Czech glass was rich and satisfying, and will remain in my memory for a long while to come.

Faux designer bags, jewelry, clothes and more

On West Nanjing Road, the side of Nanjing with the more local stores, lies 580 West Nanjing Road. An emporium for fake bag, jewelry, clothing and more. Here you will find everything from Louis Vuitton, Chanel and Marc Jacobs bags and wallets….to Tiffany sterling silver…to Paul Smith men’s clothing and accessories…Burberry trenches and scarves….to North Face parkas. The selection is constantly changing but one thing stays the same, this is the most comprehensive assortment of top quality faux designer goods in Shanghai.

And 580 Nanjing Road might be one of the only places in Shanghai where English is comfortably spoken owing to the throngs of foreign visitors that come through its doors. So shop comfortably and don’t forget to bargain hard….never accept the first price and only pay what you think is reasonable. When all else fails, be prepared to walk away and you may find that the shopkeeper will come after you with his best price.

Happy shopping