An amazing retreat only 1.5 hours outside of Tokyo

Just West of Tokyo, lies Hakone – a picturesque Japanese town famous for its views of Mt Fuji, ryokans and onsen (natural Japanese volcanic hot springs). While one can go year round, undoubtedly the most popular time of year is summer.

Hakone itself is very easy to get to – only an 80 minute ride on the JR Express train from Shinjuku to Odawara, then a quick transfer to a switchback train at Odawara to Hakone Yumoto. Yumoto is the area of Hakone with the most popular onsen, hot spring resorts. Honestly, there is not much else to do here besides soak up the local scene, literally and figuratively.

We stayed at the Kansuiro Ryokan, just a short shuttle ride by bus from the train station. A few things about Ryokan…they are seriously expensive at $400-800 per person, per night and offer a more traditional Japanese experience of tatami flooring, sliding doors, eating while seated on the floor and sleeping on futon mattresses. If you are not Japanese or are not travelling with a Japanese friend you may really miss out on all the finer points of the service from your dedicated hostess due to issues with communication (typically no language other than Japanese is spoken). The customs and exchanges are perplexing and I have no doubt we unknowingly offended our hosts at some point or another by either not reciprocating properly or missing some subtleties in exchange. That said it is a totally unique experience, one that is quintessentially Japanese.

We chose the Kansuiro primarily because of the onsite onsen. If you go to an onsen in Japan and have no previous experience, the best thing to do is to get a primer either from your host, by reading about it or by watching your fellow onsen-goers. Onsens are often (but not always) separated by gender and after that any and all modesty goes out the window. Before you can enjoy the onsen, one must indelicately scrub themselves within an inch of their lives to ensure absolutely cleanliness before entering. There are all manner and size of scrub brushes and soaps at one’s disposal in order to complete this task. Often an onsen-goer will spend 30-45 minutes scrubbing every inch of the body before entering the volcanic hot springs. And a warning for the modest – all of this happens in full view of the other guests. Once in the onsen, it is a supremely relaxing experience and definitely one not to be missed when travelling through Japan.

After having scrubbed and soaked, we decided it was time to check out the small village of Yumoto, Hakone. There’s truly not much beyond some small restaurants catering to foreigners (with burgers and Italian pastas and pizzas). Of course, for us, when in a Japan one must try the local food, so we opted for a very traditional udon noodle shop (the only one in town) where we slurped noodles with a stunning view of the valley.

All in all, while the onsen experience in Hakone is certainly unique, the thing that most impressed us was the simple yet stunning pieces of natural beauty. From small rocky streams and simple bridges to the cloud covered peaks of Mt Fuji, Hakone was a memorable example of picturesque Japanese landscapes and beauty.

What to buy and where to buy it in Hanoi

I travel a lot and I am tempted by so many stunning Asian goods and textiles. When in a country which has a famous good, e.g. Sri Lanka’s Ceylon Tea, Chinese Silks, Thai teak, etc. it is a wonderful reminder of the trip to bring something home. However, having been in Asia for a while now I believe something must be very special in order to add kilos to my luggage and make it home into my personal collection. With that said I think there are some special shops and items in Hanoi worth checking out.

No doubt you will find the usual collection of Asian silks, fans, statues, fake designer goods, etc. I don’t need to tell you where to find these, vendors for these items are abundantly littered throughout Hanoi.

But what Hanoi uniquely offers, in my opinion, are some items that are hard to find elsewhere and still represent really good value. And a particularly good area to shop for all of these is the Nha Tho area or the Church area in the Hoan Kiem (Lake) District. Here are a few of our favorite things:

Lacquerware
This high gloss style of tableware is synonymous with Vietnam. It was introduced to the world in Paris in the 1930’s by a Vietnamese artist visiting an international trade fair. Since then, the world has fallen in love with the elegance and style of lacquerware. You can certainly find this in China and Thailand, but not with the same level of quality of variety. And personally, I think there is nothing more chic to serve champagne or tapas on that a glossy black and Chinese red lacquerware tray.

To be fair there are many stores for lacquerware in Hanoi. I tend to prefer the simple, traditional styles without a lot of flourish. No painted butterflies or infinity symbols for me….I prefer a wide of expanse of uninterrupted glossy color. And while there are several stores in the Hoan Kiem District, I like MARENA Hanoi, The Art of Lacquerware and Ceramic, located at 28 Nha Chung Street, +84 (0) 4 38285542. The selection there is well edited and impressive.

Propaganda Posters
There are so many pieces of art, culture and communication left over from the war.  And unlike many other countries who might jettison these materials with a blind future focus, Vietnam has held onto and reproduced many of the stunning examples of art and culture from this period. One of my personal favourite genres is the genre of graphic propaganda posters. These posters were a form of graphic art used to educate and inspire citizen action to align with the political and cultural agenda of the time. They were effective “weapons” to raise morale, change behaviour and direct the efforts of the citizens during the war. Most of the themes during the war center around the people’s battle and production activities.

I have always loved rifling through the posters and reading the sometimes concrete and sometimes abstract slogans such as “Save the country – save the youth” or “Breed more pigs for a Vietnam with full stomachs.” Inspired by some of the more agricultural ones, we bought a series of food posters with a view to hang them in the kitchen – one about pigs, another about vegetable farming and another about coffee production. Again like with the lacquerware there are many stores in Hanoi, but we like The Hanoi Gallery, they have several locations, and we prefer the 17 Nha Chung location, +84 (0) 4 37711956.

Cotton and Linen Hand-embroidery
Sure Vietnam is famous for its silks, but did you know they also have wonderful hand embroidered cotton and linen? Since the start of the 20^th century, embroidery has been passed on from generation to generation. In Vietnam this exquisite art of supremely detailed hand embroidery is top quality and surprisingly affordable. From elaborately detailed and baroque designs to simple, modern tone-on-tone linens, you can find it all here. And this work is applied on all manner of linen items from lingerie travel bags to duvet covers to dining room place-mats and napkins to pillow cases to shirts.

One of my favorite stores for this is May at 7 Nha Tho Street, +84 (0)4 38289650. I love the assortment of items…all of the best quality…and all beautifully displayed. I struggled to choose between linen napkins and must have pored over the pile for 30 minutes – they were all so beautiful. I was tempted by the duvet covers but Paul thought it would be impractical with our naughty cat who might view it as a new and attractive item to scratch. But I did also walk away with lots of lovely shoe and lingerie bags for travel that I have been giving as (much adored) presents back in Singapore.

While certainly not a complete list, this should get you started on what is special to buy and where to buy it when in Hanoi. Be sure to finish off your day with a walk around Hoan Kiem Lake and drink a Bia Hoi and you have just had a lovely day in Hanoi

J

A wonderful way to spend a weekend afternoon in Shanghai

I love a lazy weekend afternoon in Shanghai. Unlike Singapore where the steamy weather often forces me into taxi cabs with air con, in Shanghai I love to spend the day walking the city and exploring various neighborhoods. One favourite for whiling away a Sunday is Tianzi Fang at Taikang Lu, on the southern border of the French Concession. Being a former NYer this area reminds me a lot of Soho in NYC – its cobblestone streets are lined with coffee shops, wine bars, brunch places, art galleries, unique jewelry stores, gift shops, clothing boutiques, handicraft centers, shoe stores, and more.

The shikumen style of Tianzi Fang at Taikang Lu takes you back to the old China of the early 1900’s. These charming little shikumen townhouses have been converted into shops. And in Tianzi Fang there is a twisted tangle of quirky stores where you can get lost for the day, wandering in and out of shops and stopping for a tea or coffee every now and again.

While each shop and gallery are distinct and unique, I have a few favourites and notables to share with you.

Deke Erh Art Center,
No.2, Lane 210, Taikang Road
Phone: +86 (0) 21 6415 0675
An expansive gallery with black and white photos capturing the soul of Shanghai.

Shanghai Harvest Studio,
Suite 118, No. 3 Building
No. 210 Taikang Lu
Phone: +86 (0) 21 6473 4566
A lovely shop featuring local embroidery and handicrafts. I bought a wonderfully ruffly wool, cashmere blend handknit scarf here.

Gallery & Tea Shop
Studio 16, Building 3
Lane 200, Taikang Lu
Phone: +86 (0) 21 6466 6369
A creative concept in fine porcelain – old and priceless reproductions of Chinese paintings are hand-painted on porcelain cups and plates. Also have teas and a small selection of jewelry.

Mandi Art Gallery,
No. 5, 210 Taikang Lu
Telephone: +86 (0) 21 6445 3949
Original artworks by Mandi as well as artworks by other local artists, objects d’art and jewelry. I loved Mandi’s series on Chinese Kimonos and apparently others do too as she has exhibited her works widely through Asia and Europe.

Giotto Handmade Shoes,
15 Tianzi Fang, 210 Taikang Lu
Phone: +86 (0) 21 6473 2325
A leather shop that sells ready to wear and custom made bags and shoes. If you have Western-sized feet and cannot buy your shoes in a “regular” store, this is a great place to come for handmade, custom shoes. The men’s selection in particular is understated and elegant.

SH Décor
No 41, Lane 248, Taikang Lu
Telephone: +86 (0) 21 5465 3260
A well edited selection of Asian home décor – from lacquerware to pottery to ceramics and more. Many items are Chinese but there is also a wonderful collection of modern Korean items.

Zhen Cha Lin , Chinese Tea Shop
A wonderful traditional Chinese tea shop with endless varieties of teas and gorgeous, unique tea pots and tea cups – from delicate, feminine pieces to chic, urban modern designs.

Produc-T,
No 11, Lane 248, Taikang Lu
Telephone: +86 (0) 21 6473 4301
A unique designer T-shirt store – designs combine Chinese cultural and political symbols with modern street-wear elements. I liked the iconic “I love Shanghai” shirt.

Tai Wine
No 38/39, Lane 248, Taikang Lu
Telephone: +86 (0) 21 6473 3001
A wonderful and cozy wine bar / restaurant with a great wine list. One of the few wine bars in Shanghai that retains the “old-Shanghai” feel. Stop in for a drink after a day of shopping and strolling.

The above list presents a few highlights…but the area is overflowing with options. So whether your interest runs to local artists and handcrafts or fashion clothing or precious porcelain, you will find something in the Tianzi Fang at Taikang Lu area to capture your imagination.

Just another reason to love Shanghai

A luxe weekend getaway just a couple of hours from Singapore
(pictures from Banyan Tree Website)

Singapore is a convenient hub – parts of Indonesia and Malaysia are next door neighbors and as such provide great options for short weekend trips vs. the slighty longer destinations of Thailand, Bali and Hong Kong (2 – 4 hour flights). In particular, Bintan, Indonesia is just a short 1 hour ferry ride away from Singapore and several hotels and beach resorts await. I had the opportunity to visit the luxurious Banyan Tree Bintan Resort recently on a short 3 day trip for a work related event.

As we arrived at the Banyan Tree Bintan resort, I was immediately impressed by the vistas – dramatic views of the rocky shore. It reminded me a bit of the rocky New England, USA coast yet blended with the startlingly blue waters of SE Asia. I have an affinity for rocky and dramatic beaches….but to be fair, if you love white sand expansive beaches, this resort might not be for you. But if you enjoy sitting by the infinity pool and taking in a dramatic coastal view, then you will be in heaven.

As we were escorted to our room I was surprised to see one of the most romantic room set ups you can imagine – the bed in the center of the room, overlooking the sea and swathed in ethereal mosquito netting. This was funny (read: weird) because I was sharing the room with a female co-worker, Monica…and it wasn’t the twin bed set up we had bargained for. I called the front desk to correct the matter and was informed that this was the only room style available. Negotiations with Monica ensued, I confessed I snored and in the end we made the best of it   But I will say it would have been just perfect for a couple. In fact the romantic vibe continued with a private Jacuzzi on the balcony perched over the rocky shore.

We spent a great deal of time strolling around the resort and it is truly gorgeous. Although, it is a little difficult since the resort is built on steep, rolling hills. As a result golf cart buggies are available to cart everyone around. My first stop was the spa – being familiar with the Banyan Tree Bangkok, I was excited to see if the Banyan Tree Bintan measured up. I only had an hour, so I chose to try the Balinese massage and within minutes was completely blissed out. It was among the best massages I have had and combined with the sea views had a profoundly relaxing effect.

While the room, spa and overall property were quite impressive, I am sorry to say I was a bit let down on the restaurants. With 5-star Ocean View Villas at $685USD / night, you would expect the food to be 5-star as well. This however is not the case. There are 3 onsite restaurants – Saffron (Thai / Indonesian), Treetops (international café where breakfast is also served) and The Cove (Mediterranean cuisine, dinner only). I had the opportunity to sample all 3 and came away completely underwhelmed. For example, in the Thai restaurant, even the basics like Som Tum Gai Yang (papaya salad with grilled chicken) were lacking…the salad dressing was too sweet and the chicken was flavourless. I felt the same at breakfast – lots of overly chewy rolls with no real flavour and not much else. After seeing that the breakfast offering was likely to induce a carb coma, I ordered eggs a la carte. They were inexplicably vinegary and well, hard to eat. I could tell you about the Mediterranean restaurant, but I think you get the picture…And unfortunately, because the resort is self-contained, there is no where to go off to grab a meal.

That said, all in all The Banyan Tree Bintan was a lovely resort and a perfect option for a weekend getaway from Singapore. Epic sea vistas, romantic and indulgent environs and an impressive spa. Shame about the food, but consider yourself warned.

Banyan Tree Bintan

My exotic Asian life vs. Life in the West

I have been living now in SE Asia for 3+ years. First I spent roughly 2 years in Bangkok and have now been in Singapore for 1 ½ years. In this time, I explored a part of the world I never imagined I would know, much less know intimately. In this time I have visited 16 new countries…sometimes for personal reasons and sometimes for work. It’s actually sometimes more interesting when it is for work because I get to go into consumer’s homes (I work in international marketing) and talk to them about their lives, their families and the products / brands they use.

I love this life. Everyday is an adventure, or holds the potential for an adventure. I have met endless number of people, from locals to other expats, that have enriched my understanding of other cultures as well as of myself. My potential for new experiences is seemingly unlimited. But then again there are the trials and tribulations of being a foreigner in a foreign place and sometimes missing that which is familiar.

So I thought I might share with you my few things I love in Asia vs. things I miss at home.

Loving this about Asian Life

• Endless weekend trips
  Many countries are within a 3-5 hour flight from Bangkok or Singapore. Some of the most exciting world cities as well as the best beaches and scuba diving sites in the world are at my fingertips
• A multinational community and new friends
  I have never had such a diverse group of friends…Thais, Swedes, French, German, Singaporean, Indian, Phillipino…
• Asian food
  I love Thai food, it’s actually a comfort food for me. And there’s nothing like having Indian food in India and Chinese food in China…. no chicken cashew my friends, real Chinese food. And Japanese food…. aaaaahhh, another new obsession of mine. Although I still don’t understand though how people can eat so many rice and noodles and not gain weight.
• Asian beer
  I am a beer aficionado…and Asian beers are outstanding. Especially some of the true local beers like unpasteurized Vietnamese Bia Hoi.
• Engrish
  Engrish is so defined by the Asian substitution of “l”’s and “r”’s. But its really more than that, it is the funny examples of translations that happen in countries where English is a non-native language.
• My home
  I traded 600 sq foot living in NY for 1400 sq foot living in Asia. Size matters.
• Cultural experiences that broaden my horizons
  Living in various cultures and long term travels allow me to experience cultures first hand. I believe the lens on which I see the world has changed and that my life perspective is much richer. Whether it is seeing the extreme poverty of Nepal or the wild and wacky world of Tokyo, so many things have made a deep impression.

Missing this about Western Life

• The seasons
  Some might enjoy perpetual summer (+90 F / +40 C), but I miss spring and fall…and sometimes even winter snowstorms. There is a certain energy and vitality when winter shifts to spring and people are thrilled to be outdoors again. I also shallowly miss the fashion too…boots, sweaters and coats.
• A wine culture
  On top of enjoying beer, I am also a big wine drinker. I miss restaurants where you can ask servers about wines and they know their stuff. With wine that is x400 in price due to import duties, there is no such thing as a good value in Asia…in particular I miss the perfectly adequate $10 South American red (Malbec, please!).
• Proper bread
  There is bread here, but oftentimes it is not proper bread(unless you are at a hotel where it is handmade). Hearty thick pieces with a substantial crust, and even better when it has grains and seeds…yum! Paul has recently started making bread at home and I am oh so grateful.
• Snow skiing and Winter Trips
  I suppose I have swapped ski slopes for beaches in Asia. But I do miss weekend trips involving suiting up in the morning in a ski bib and a robust après ski scene. No role for Irish coffees and fireplaces here.
• The price is the price
  I don’t relish haggling over nearly every item I buy. I appreciate the convenience of walking to the cash register without having to spend another 15 minutes bargaining. When I bargain, I always have a sneaking suspicion I have overpaid.
• US pricing in general
  As it turns out just about everything is cheaper in the US – cameras, computers, clothing, phones, shoes, many groceries, cars….I could go on and on.
• Old friends
  I have met so many new and wonderful people. Some are very rich relationships I will carry with me when I leave. Yet there’s just something special about those friends who knew you when you were a teenager with braces and frizzy hair.
• Being “average” sized
  In the US I am a bit tall at 5’10”, but not unusually so…in Asia I am a veritable feminine giant. This is convenient for seeing over crowds in rock concerts or sporting events, but less so for shopping. I cannot buy anything in my size here…bras, shoes, clothes, etc.

All in all, I am so fortunate to have the life I have and I truly relish the opportunity. Asia has been good to me. My passport is bulging and so is my photo album. I have a wealth of experiences, friends and memories that will stay with me forever and I wouldn’t trade that for anything (except maybe a glass of Malbec and a slice of 8-grain bread

Won’t you share with me some things on your list?

A 2 day trekking trip from Kathmandu to Nagarkot

We were only in Nepal for a short time and so didn’t have option to do a typical 2-3 week trekking excursion. But we also didn’t want to miss out on getting a taste of the quintessential Nepal trekking experience and so we managed to find a 2 day trip from Kathmandu to the village of Nagarkot. Nagarkot is perched at an altitude of 2165 meters (the highest point on the valley rim) and is famous for having some of the most stunning sunrise / sunset views of the Himalayas, a 180 degree vista from Mt. Annapurna in the northwest to Mt. Everest in the extreme northeast. In fact, it is so stunning that the Rana Maharajas of Nepal built their summer palace in Nagarkot in order to enjoy the vista daily.

Nagarkot is only 20km from Kathmandu, but if you choose to trek, it is a 4-6 hour trekking journey (depending upon skill level). The trek actually starts at the temple of Changu Narayan in the Kathmandu Valley. The temple, a a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is one of the oldest Hindu temples in the valley, dating back to the 4th century. A stone slab discovered in the vicinity of the temple dates to the 5th century, and is the oldest such inscribed stone ever found in Nepal. Around the temple is a neighboring village where one begins to get a sense of Nepalese village life – children playing in the dusty lanes, women washing each other’s hair by the roadside, stray dogs milling about, enterprising vendors capitalizing on the tourist flow by selling all manner of trinkets.

Dipping off the side of one of the hills near Changu Narayan, the trek begins. At times it is quite level and easy, at other times the terrain gets a bit steep and challenging. As we go through the countryside, we see all manner of Nepalese village life – from single homes that are self sustaining with small gardens, chickens and goats to small communities sharing a well. It is clear this is not an easy life…women in their 80’s hoist baskets of firewood on their heads, mothers simultaneously grind grain in a mortar and pestle while breastfeeding a newborn, while the older children are feeding the (sometimes anemic looking) livestock. This “simple” life doesn’t look so simple. I start to wonder, where do they shop for the things they cannot make, like knives or tools or even some spices and other cooking supplies? Our guide tells us that periodically they do a multi-hour trek (one way) to a larger village to acquire what they can afford and can carry home, and in some cases for special items, multi-day trips on foot are required. More successful families, only a handful, may have a motorbike for the trip. Coming from the US where even poor families have TV’s, shop in supermarkets, go to quality public schools and have easy access to adequate medical care, it’s hard to imagine this kind of life. I feel indulgent with my North Face backpack, Columbia jacket, Armani sunglasses and department store sunscreen. I have seen the rural poor in SE Asia in places like Cambodia and Thailand, but somehow this affects me more…maybe it is the demanding terrain and harsh climate that clearly dominates the life here.  The juxtaposition of such poverty in the context of such abundant and stunning natural beauty is remarkable.

On the trek, we continue to wind through the hills and valleys of the area, stumbling across various curiosities like a girl trying to coax a goat off of a ledge or a man hiking home with freshly caught fish in hand (our guide tells us the nearest stream is over 2 hours away). We see amazing views that leave me at a loss for words and also distract me from the blister I can feel forming in my shoe. Eventually at the 5 hour mark my body starts to ache and I wonder how people who do the “real” treks manage 8 hours a day, every day, for multiple weeks. I am looking forward to getting to the hotel, ditching the backpack and stripping off my sweaty clothes. I realize this is an indulgence because most trekkers sleep in tents with sleeping bags. And then I also acknowledge, I am not a hard core trekker – I want a hot shower and a beer. Now.

We arrive in Nagarkot, whose name means “fort of the city.” Its position on the rim of valley was a strategic location in the ancient trade route from Tibet to Kathmandu. We are staying at Club Himalaya Resort, the best resort in the village. I believe it qualifies as a 4 star, but then things in Nepal are a bit off ranking wise. It is a solid 3 star in my book. But I couldn’t be happier – there is a spa with a sauna and whirlpool and massage is offered. I choose the 90 minute Ayurvedic massage (1800 rupees / $25 USD) – it is thorough and probably one of the best massages I have had in months. Later, I become convinced this, and the sauna, are why I am not sore the next day.

After the massage we take a short walk down to the Tea House Inn and sit on the terrace soaking up the amazing sunset view and sipping Nepalese milk tea and eating momos (Nepalese dumplings). On our walk back we discover a lovely little shop called the Dexo Souvenir Center – they have a small selection of handknit sweaters, pillow covers, jewelry, etc. But what is most notable is the abundant selection of Nepalese music. The owner is super helpful and lets us play any CD we like, and then offers recommendations on other similar options. This was definitely a highlight and in my opinion a must do if you like music and find yourself in Nagarkot. We stay at Dexo chatting with the owner, Jayandra, for well over an hour listening to music before the fatigue sets in and we head back to the hotel.

Club Himalaya affords a stunning view of the valley, thanks to its large glass windows dominating one whole side of the hotel. The buffet at dinner looks a little sad, so we choose to order from the menu offering Indian or Chinese (it’s owned by a Hong Kong group). The food is not particularly impressive, but then it’s not bad either. And really all that is standing between us and sleep is the meal. So we rush through it and are off to bed startlingly early at 9pm. Partly because we are tired from the trekking and partly because we will rise at 5:30 to see the sunrise. This is why people stay at Club Himalaya – it’s not the mediocre food or the fairly basic rooms, it’s the epic sunrise that brings people here.

And so it is at 5:30am the night sky begins to transform. Deep colors emerge and shift as I watch from my terrace, speechless and mesmerized. I have never seen a sunrise such as this. It’s the sort of spectacular natural beauty that leaves one simultaneously filled with wonder and then also feeling a bit small and insignificant when compared to the majestic power of nature. Around 6am we head up to the roof to enjoy the panoramic view from Annapurna to Everest. I don’t know if I will ever see a more beautiful sunrise in my lifetime and you know what? I don’t really care, because seeing Nepal transform under the rising sun was more beauty than I ever hoped to see. Still under the spell of the sunrise, we made our way downstairs and enjoyed a wordless breakfast before heading back to Kathmandu.

I travel a lot and so tragically I find the more I see, often the less affected I am. Things new and different are not so startling and impactful…and so with each trip, the more of the world I see, the less of a mark it leaves on my soul. This, however, was not the case for Nepal. From the raucous streets of Kathmandu to the sunrise of a lifetime in Nagarkot, I feel the deep imprint of a journey that challenged me and a place I will hold in my heart until I return.

Urban chaos and pollution juxtaposed with some of the world’s most famous sights
Photos by Joanna
Wedged in the Himalayas in a valley, even landing in Kathmandu feels perilous as the plane is batted about by wind gusts and spirals onto the tarmac. And then, nothing really prepares you for what you will experience when you leave the airport in Kathmandu. A raucous assortment of sounds, sights and even smells assault the senses. Heaps of trash everywhere the eye can see. The pollution is so heavy that gulping air feels like an impossible chore. People are everywhere, doing all manner of things on the streets that in developed countries are activities done in special rooms of the home, e.g. using the bathroom, laundry, washing dishes and shampooing hair. Just getting into town to one’s hotel feels like an adventure as dodgy cars with bumpers and other necessary parts duct-taped on weave through traffic, oblivious pedestrians and errant dogs to fight the crush and enter the city. It’s shocking that city with so many cultural riches is…well, so obviously and startlingly poor. In fact, 82% of the population live on less than $2USD a day and on the UN Human Development Index, Nepal is ranked 142 out of 177 countries. Actually, only Bangladesh and a handful of the poorest African countries are below it.

Trekking & the Thamel Backpacker Area
Trekking is Nepal’s biggest attraction, which is readily apparent given the glut of backpackers who use Kathmandu as a staging point to organize and party in “civilization” before hitting the trail. In fact Nepal is kind of a Disneyland for the adventure-seeking backpacking crowd. The Thamel area is a backpackers ghetto of sorts, a district littered with flea bag inns and cheap beer joints. It’s chaotic tangle of rickshaws, street hawkers and snack sellers is nearly impossible to navigate – be prepared to be carried along with the crowd. People watching is almost as interesting as the sightseeing – lots of dreadlocked foreigners in pajama pants and fleece pullovers, middle-aged travellers looking shell shocked by the cacophony, animals being butchered inches from passerbys with various bits and fuilds flying into the crowd, old Nepali women laying out produce for sale on the filthy streets, hash dealers peddling their wares to said dreadlocked foreigners. Yes, Thamel is an “experience.” But for this 30-something girl who never was much of a backpacker anyway, going sightseeing (some major sights and curiosities are in this area) and having a few beers was plenty of time in Thamel for me.

Nepalese Beer
On beers…being a beer aficionado, one of my favourite (and first) things to do in a new place is try the local beer. In Nepal that means Everest and Gorkha. I actually tried Gorkha first, simply because it sounded more exotic and the label looked cooler. But in the end, I took a shine to Everest – a perfectly executed classic European-style lager.

If you are ever in Kathmandu and want a recommendation to where to stop in and have one, I can suggest a few places….In the Thamel area, try Full Moon, a super small chillout lounge that is a half step up (but only a half) from the dodgy beer halls with pool tables. Or for a more refined lounge that would be at home in New York or Bangkok, head to Tamas Lounge and order a Sex in the City style cocktail, champagne, espresso martinis, cosmopolitans…they are all here. And if university beer halls really are more your thing, then you don’t need any suggestions from me, they are in abundance. However, for a proper pub environment, I quite liked the Irish Pub on Ananda Bhawan in the Lazimpat area. Oh how I love a beer in the middle of the day when I am on holiday…. sigh…. By the way, keep in mind that bars in Kathmandu are not open past 11pm, so it only makes sense to start in the middle of the day

Lazimpat
We actually opted to stay not far from the Irish Pub (luckily!) in the more sedate expat area of Lazimpat at the Shangri La Hotel, so as to avoid bed bugs and other unseemly things widely acknowledged as a given in Thamel. Some people might think you are soft or not fully “experiencing” a place if you want a private bathroom and a helpful front desk…but to them I would argue that when you are travelling in unfamiliar surroundings where the cultural customs are unknown, you have no local contacts and especially if you are female travelling alone or with other females in Asia, a comfortable hotel provides the proper oasis in which to retreat from the madness. Unfortunately, it is quite common for Western girls to be assaulted in Nepal and this is apparently chalked up to the “sexy” Hollywood movies which give the impression to the South Asian man that a Western female is up for anything. (This is also true in India).

So the Shangri La became our staging ground for our trek. We were headed to Nagarkot which happened to be the shortest trek we could do in 2 days. Not super strategic to come to Nepal for anything less than a few weeks, but a working girl has to squeeze these things in. As it turns out Lazimpat and the Shangri La was a perfect area to be based. We could cozy up by the fire at night and enjoy an Everest beer and the most amazing Dahl Makhani I have ever tasted and then by day, we toured the area, popped down to Thamel and other far flung parts of the city to explore as many nooks and crannies as possible. We often frequented a favourite place for lunch called Dechengling (meaning “place of joy” in Tibetan) where we would sit in the garden and eat momos (local dumplings) whilst sipping the totally addictive Nepalese Milk Tea (think Starbucks Chai Latte).

Sightseeing
A word on sightseeing…you can use your Lonely Planet or other for this. There are so many important historic sights that it would be impossible to name them here. I will say Durbar Square is a must – the former palace for kings which is now a Unesco World Heritage site.

We also had the rare opportunity to see the Kumari, the prepubescent female child known to locals as the “living goddess” for they believe the goddesses spirit enters her body. If you haven’t heard about this before, read the wikipedia… it’s kind of wacky to a non-Nepalese. We had quite lucky timing when we arrived at her palace. We saw a lot of commotion and curiously peered in at which point, we were ushered back to a courtyard. Everyone was looking up at a window expectantly and within in a few minutes she appeared. Seriously, she appeared… it did seem as if she walked up…. her body just glided to the window. And I gasped! She stared back at us, totally expressionless for what seemed like ages, but what turned out to be mere minutes. And then she glided away. Just like that she was gone. Sorry no photos, not allowed.

Local Handicrafts and Shopping
There were actually a few shopping gems nearby the hotel as well. At a neighboring store named Dad’s I bought a lovely handmade Tibetan carpet for my home office. I was oh so tempted by the gorgeous cashmere sweaters and pashminas, but living in the tropics means I have had to quit my cashmere addiction. Also a perfectly cute tea shop with the loveliest owners is just a short walk down the road as well. They showed me how to make Nepalese Milk Tea and displayed endless helpfulness as we perused dozens of teas that were foreign and exotic to us – in fact they insisted that they brew it so we could taste and seemed to find real joy in watching us experience a new flavor.

In Nepal, there are a great many textiles…from cottons, to cashmeres, to wools and silks. The prints are vibrant and mesmerizing, and thus can be quite tempting. Shop around and you will find that many goods are similar and should have similar pricing. This should give you an idea of what you should pay before you buy. And do negotiate.

In the Thamel area, but generally all over as well, you will find it plentiful shops selling curios, tapestries, fabrics, souvenir t-shirts, blocks of old wood carvings, Tibetan carpets and beads and more.

Final Impressions of Kathmandu
In the end, Kathmandu is a crazy, messed up, overwhelming and yet somehow charming place full of idiosyncrasies and contradictions. For example, absolutely wealthy with untold cultural and historic riches, yet somehow one of the most filthy and obviously poor places I have ever visited.

Air pollution threatens the wellbeing of each and every citizen and visitor. No one can biologically tolerate it without some ill effect. And the more you try to understand it the more disgusting it gets…because so many people defecate on the street, this dries and becomes particulate airborne fecal matter, so yes, you are breathing in poo. I was the unwelcome recipient of a cough it took 4 weeks to shake after my visit.

On the river, dead bodies are cremated daily (and of course this enters the air as well). Downstream from where the bodies are lit on fire, local men wait to scavenge what is not totally ruined from their smoldering bodies, e.g. shoes, a piece of jewellery, etc.

There is garbage everywhere you look – small piles, big piles. And it’s not just the locals who have a weak sense of civic responsibility. You go on the trails and there are discarded candy bar wrappers and water bottles from the backpackers. That’s just shameful really.

Kathmandu is the only capital city in the world that goes up to 16 hours a day without electricity. There are roaming blackouts and at any given time you can be walking down a street and one side is fully lit, while the opposite side is totally dark. (be sure to stay in a hotel with a generator.)

And yet, there is still something captivating about this otherwise, dank and dirty place. The hustle and bustle and general chaos is part of the charm, but more than that it is the intersection of centuries of history, a society coping with urban industrialization, the optimism so often seen in inhabitants of less developed countries and the cultural splendour that will keep me coming back.

I have spent a lot of my life and a great many holidays at the beach. In the US I travelled to Hawaii, North Carolina, Florida, Martha’s Vineyard and California to see the most beautiful beaches in America. I have been to the white washed beaches of the Caribbean on several occasions. I spent every weekend for the better part of 6 months on Brazilian beaches. And now living in Singapore I am a frequent visitor of picturesque Thai and Malaysian beaches. But nothing prepared me for the splendour of the Maldives and the secluded Alila Villas Hadahaa Resort.

Even the transfer from the airport to the resort was magical. We arrived at a small local airport under the cover of night at about 1am, and transferred to the Alila speedboat for the final leg of the journey. As we made our way to the resort phosphorescent plankton streamed in wake of the boat, lighting our way. Upon arrival to the resort at 3am, we were efficiently greeted and led to our rooms to sleep. As we were nodding off to sleep, my partner Paul murmured something about scented pillows and that was the last thing I remember before nodding off myself.

So when we awoke in the morning we had a very loose grasp on our surroundings. We stumbled out of our room into the bright sunlight and realized we had found paradise! Alila Villas Hadahaa is literally the first and only island resort in the Southernmost Huvadhoo Atoll. Imagine an island paradise, completely unexplored….it’s like something out of “Gilligan’s Island”, except that you are in the embrace of 5-star luxury accommodations. It’s everything you have heard about the spectacular Maldives, except somehow still more than you really dared to expect.

The boutique resort is wrapped around the 200m x 300m island, each room a villa style that somehow feels completely integrated with the natural environment. Natural woods, grass mats, white cottons, and the outdoor shower and bath with the rain shower and a verdant canopy of palm tree leaves culminate in a truly elegant expression of island living. Every comfort is anticipated – cool water available before you can ask for it, fluffy white towels within reach no matter where you go. Hammocks are tied between palm trees and a peaceful quiet serves as a seamless backdrop for the call of the gecko and the gentle ocean tides. And what’s really amazing about all this luxury is that it was created and is maintained with the environment in mind. Alila Villas Hadahaa is Green Globe Certified, the highest rating for both building and operating with the highest standards of environmental sensitivity.

In fact the villa is so comfy, you’d be tempted to stay in, but the rest of the luxe property beckons. But the entire property seems to have been built with lounging and relaxation in mind, no matter where you go there are lots of wide sofas and plump cushions that entice. Meals are taken by the pool / beach area in one of the two site restaurants, Relish which offers an international menu and the other, Battuta’s offering a more local  Maldivian culinary experience. The new German-born chef, Bastian Mantey is putting his mark on the menu and can often be found ambling through the restaurant, speaking to diners and asking for feedback. In fact one of our most memorable meals was the chef’s special menu that we enjoyed during a Private Dining experience – we were placed on the roof of the restaurant, at a private table, with a private waiter and the most magnificent view of the ocean and the property under the dazzling night sky and a full moon. Paul pointed out to me the Big Dipper and Orion’s Belt – things we never see at home in our city life.

I must admit that I have a low tolerance for just lying around on the beach and working on my tan (maybe this is because I always burn!). Paul feels similarly, and after a day on the beach with a book, we have pretty much had our fill of prone relaxation. But we were pleased to learn that there were more than just pristine beaches on offer at Alila Villas Hadahaa. They have quite a robust offering of journeys and experiences. I did sundown yoga on the jetty in the evenings. We had an amazing couples massage in the award winning Spa by Mandara (2009, Eco Spa of the Year by AsiaSpa Awards). We took an afternoon Journey to the local Artisans via speedboat to a local island where we got a feeling for local Maldivian life and saw indigenous straw mat weavers working out of their homes. We enjoyed the complimentary Maldivian afternoon high tea at Battutas. We snorkelled the house reef one afternoon and were so inspired by what we saw we decided to scuba dive the next two days.

And about the snorkelling and diving….Alila Villas Hadahaa is built in an area of the Maldives that has remained largely unexplored, until now. Imagine reefs never seen before and marine life completely undisturbed. On the house reef we were shocked how much one could see so close to the resort – these were the kinds of fish and coral one would have to go 15m deep in Thailand to see. And then when travelling on the boat a bit further out, we saw endless coral terraces that made the movie “Avatar” look unimaginative. The marine life was more varied and abundant than and I have personally ever seen before. We spotted sea turtles, manta rays, dolphins, reef sharks, giant groupers and school after school of the most colourful tropical fish.  Beyond that, the dive staff from the on-site Blue Journey’s dive center was highly professional and made every outing a pleasure, working with everyone from beginner to expert. My only regret was that we didn’t start diving from day one with these guys.

In the end it was quite difficult to leave. We had found our own little slice of island paradise and unlike other holidays where I am ready to get back home to my bed and my life, somehow I just didn’t want this to end. Everything about our experience set a new benchmark for luxury for us to the point that I actually feel sorry for the staff at our next 5-star hotel experience. They will have quite big shoes to fill after our time at Alila Villas Hadahaa.

A charming hotel in the Lazimpat area of Kathmandu
(photos from Hotel Shangrila Website)

Kathmandu is a backpacker town mostly…a staging ground where people land and spend a few days before heading off on their treks. It’s this context which explains a distinct lack of “proper” hotels in the city. This is why when I visited Kathmandu recently I gravitated toward the Hotel Shangrila in the Lazimpat area of the city.

The Shangrila is ostensibly a 5-star hotel, although more like 3 or 4 stars in my book, and is centrally located for tourism, shopping and dining when in Kathmandu. Sure the Dwarika is more luxurious, but in the end it is simply not centrally located and makes getting around town a bit of a drag.

At about $85-120USD a night, the Shangrila also represents good value. The on-site Shambala Café is surprisingly good and set in a gorgeous little garden with fountains and flowers. My friend Gretchen and I agreed that the local and Indian menu was amazingly good, especially the Dal Makhani (black lentils cooked overnight in a tandoor oven). We were unanimous in deciding it was the best Dal we have had outside of India. And combined with the Chooza Makhani (tandoori chicken simmered in tomato gravy and finished with double cream), Naan bread and a local Ghorka beer, it was a divine Indian feast. Even if you are not staying at the Shangrila, we would recommend heading over to the café for a meal.

Also we enjoyed our time spent at the bar as well (as one does . But seriously, it was just so cozy sitting around the fire and sipping cocktails. Living in SE Asia, I cannot remember the last time I gathered around a fireplace for an intimate chat. It’s a special treat if you are from a warmer climate.

The rooms themselves were comfortable, but not especially luxurious…and for me this is why I dispute the 5 star rating. It in fact might be 5 star for Nepal, but compared with other destinations around the world, it was more 3 or 4 star for me. Don’t get me wrong, nothing was particular bad or off about the room, but then again, it wasn’t especially memorable either.

In the end though, sometimes when traveling you have to acknowledge that very little time is spent in the room and with this in mind, the Shangrila is a great place to dine, chill over cocktails and stage your discovery of Kathmandu.

Hotel Shangrila Kathmandu
Lazimpat
Kathmandu, Nepal
Telephone: +977 (0) 1 4412999

Spend an afternoon strolling Shanghai while taking in the bizarre and bazaars

I miss antique markets and flea markets. I suppose it is mostly a Western thing – you see them in Paris, London, New York, Los Angeles. My personal favourite being a NYer was the Chelsea Weekend Flea Market. These are the kind of places where you can find old kitschy items, vintage jewellery and clothing, mismatched china and objets d’art at bargain basement prices. Some of it is crap and some of it is cool, and that’s the fun…hunting through the crap to find that the precious needle in a haystack. These don’t really exist in Asia – except in China. Why is that? Well the market concept is alive and healthy as evidenced by the famous Chatuchak Bangkok market and others. But I have observed that most cultures in Asia simply aren’t interested in old things. In developing countries in Asia it seems they put more emphasis on the new than the old. I suppose it makes sense, but it is also a little sad. Most of the Asian art and antique dealers dealers are…gasp….Western. I went to a so called “flea market in Singapore” and it was a whole bunch of people selling new, locally designed clothing. Want to give your old clothing away to a vintage store in Thailand or Singapore? Well, you cannot because they aren’t any. But in China there is still a modicum of respect for the old and certainly an appetite for the new, and this is reflected in the vibrant market scene that abounds in Shanghai.

We started out on a brisk weekend winter morning and with a view to spend the day covering the Shanghai antique market scene. It’s completely walkable, approx 2 – 2.5km, and frankly there’s sometimes no better way to explore a city than on foot.

YuYuan Bazaar & Jiu Jiao Chang  & Fangbang Road
Only a few minutes walk from the Bund (We usually stay at the Westin Bund Center Shanghai) lies theYu Yuan Gardens and Bazaar and Jin Jiao Road area. This area called Old Town is one of the few remaining traditional old areas in Shanghai, full of dark alleys and mysterious alcoves, bustling street life and crowded lanes. Stroll down Jiu Jiao Chang Road and take it all in.

What you will find: A mix of old, new and reproductions. Curio stores. Tea shops. Tourist / souvenir shops. Be careful because some reproductions are sold as “antiques.” I bought a lovely set of reproduction calligraphy brushes and a stand at Da Zhong handicraft.

Joanna checks the conversion price on a set of brushes

Apparently the best tea shop in all of Shanghai

Tips:  Check out the YuYuan gardens, dating from 1577. Stop in for tea at the kitschy, cozy Shanghai Tea House. Avoid weekends if possible, otherwise be prepared for crowds.

Cute tea shop worth a visit, look out for this doorway or you'll miss it

Flower, Bird, Fish & Insect Market
Follow W Fangbang Road through a local neighbourhood – it will twist and turn, but as long as you are on W Fangbang road you are in the right direction. You well see lots of local produce stores and butchers, people doing laundry on the street and other various signs of everyday life. Once you hit S Xizang Road, turn right and the Flower, Bird, Fish and Insect Market is on your right.

What you will find: An unbelievable array of crickets and other creepy crawly things. Loads of birds of all sorts and all manner of birdcages, including the really big Victorian-style floor stand ones. A few kittens and puppies. Fish and aquarium supplies.

Lots of singing birds for sale

Tips:  Come with a camera, you likely have never (or will never) see anything like this.

Rows and rows of tiny birds for sale

Shady men in dark back alleys bargaining over primo crickets

Dongtai Road Antiques Market
Follow W Fangbang Road through a local neighborhood – it will twist and turn, but as long as you are on W Fangbang road you are in the right direction. You well see lots of local produce stores and butchers, people doing laundry on the street and other various signs of everyday life. On the border of Old Town and the French Concession, you will hit S Xizang Road, turn right and the Flower, Bird, Fish and Insect Market is on your right.

Head for this archway to find the market

What you will find: It’s a bit like a flea market in the American sense…lots of junk with a few needles in a haystack to be found. But even the junk is quirky and interesting. Paul toyed with the idea of buying a ceramic pig in a tuxedo (he didn’t) and we had a good laugh at some of the silly sayings on old biscuit tins. It’s really a mixture of curios, china, teapots, signs, typewriters, old radios, vintage jewellery and endlessly more.

Random knick knacks for sale

Tips:  Bargain hard. Sometimes it can be hard to tell what is a real antique versus what is a reproduction…if they are willing to come down on the significantly price then you can better gauge if what you are getting is really worth the money.

Chinese Checkers looks different than the kind I played as a kid

The back part of the walking tour gets a bit more local

And when you are done you will find yourself on the edge of the French Concession. If you walk just another 7-10 minutes more to Xintiandi, you can enjoy lunch or dinner or maybe just a cocktail at one of our favourite Shanghai restaurants, T8.

Hope you have a perfect Shanghai afternoon like we did