As much as I enjoy writing about travel, I also enjoy reading about it. Here are two of my favourite books in which the authors go on journey’s that are both physical and emotional. I, like these authors, have discovered the most authentic versions of myself by finding myself completely out of my element in foreign surroundings and cultures.

I was surprised to learn that the 1980′s brat-pack actor Andrew McCarthy is also nowadays an esteemed travel writer. McCarthy writes for the likes of National Geographic and Outside magazines. The Longest Way Home is his story of finding himself post-rehab for drug and alcohol abuse through travel. He explores Latin America and Europe and in his journeys is able to connect with himself by connecting through cultures and ultimately finds his way to a committed relationship back home.

Honeymoon with My Brother is another such book, where Franz Wisner finds himself jilted at the altar and still the holder of tickets to a Latin American honeymoon. He invites his brother, and the “honeymoon” with his brother turns into a 53-country journey over 2 years. They go off the reservation, so to speak, when they toss their copies of Lonely Planet and discover the adventure of unplanned travel. Franz and his brother are now a sucessful travel journalism duo with Franz doing most of the writing and his brother as the photographer.

Both books are amazing stories of people lost, and then found through the transformative experiences of travel. Definitely worth a read if you are looking for summer travel reading and inspiration.

The more I travel the more I notice similarities across cultures rather than differences between them. For example, I have yet to visit a place that doesn’t have fried chicken as a dish in some shape or form. Same with dumplings…I was surprised to notice they are everywhere! Everyone loves dumplings! And what’s not to like? There is something incredibly satisfying about biting into a dumpling and discovering the mix of flavours and textures.

Here’s a guide to the dumplings I have had the good fortune to sample around the world….but I am sure it is by no means an exhaustive list, so please do write in and add on if you have a favourite dumpling I have missed.

(Shrimp Shumai above)

China: It would take a book to describe all the buns and dumplings that exist in China. Not only are there a great deal of types, but they also vary from region to region and thus the list might just be endless. I have been enjoying dim sum since my days in New York so I consider myself to be very lucky to live in China where dim sum is not just a Sunday afternoon event. You can have dim sum any time in this great country and believe me, I do! There are so many different kinds of dumplings but my favourite has to be xiao long bao – the traditional dumpling filled with a pork meatball and hot soup. I am also a big lover of the simple classics zheng jiao which are  steamed dumplings (my favourite being shrimp) and jiaozi otherwise known as potstickers.

Nepal: I was completely taken with momos when I visited Nepal a few years back. These are somewhere between buns and dumplings with the breading. Again the traditional contents are ground pork, but often they have the addition of some potato and curry spices which make something like the love child of a Chinese dumpling an an Indian samosa.

Japan: Japanese dumplings are so popular they have traveled worldwide. Gyoza are also in the potsticker category, fried in hot oil until the outside is golden brown and slightly crunchy. Filling is typically ground port with green onion, ginger and garlic.

Thailand: an adaptation from Chinese dumpling, kanom jeeb are quite popular in Thailand.  These steamed dumplings feature a combination of pork, shrimp and water chestnuts and is served with Thai soy dipping sauce. The combination of ingredients yield a soft texture with a little crunch in every bite. Kanom jeeb is served with Thai dipping soy sauce.

Turkey: Yes, even in Turkey there are dumplings. My ex-mother in law used to spend all day making manti from scratch.  Manti are tiny crescent shaped dumplings (something like wontons) filled with minced lamb, onion, pine nuts and garlic. The best part though is how there are served – drizzed with a hot sauce of butter and smoked paprika and doused with copious amounts of tangy plain yogurt.

India: A very special sweet dumpling in Southern India is modak.  Modak is made with freshly grated coconut and jaggery (cane sugar) in a shell of rice or wheat flour. It can be fried or steamed but I prefer the steamed ones, probably because they are served hot with ghee (clarified butter).

Czech & Austria: These are a bit of an exception because they are not really stuffed with a filling. Knedlíky are bread dumplings quite often served as a side dish with meats and gravy. They are perfect for soaking up every last bit of the tasty rich gravies that are so common in these countries.

Russia: OK, so  technically pierogi are Polish. But I have never been to Poland. That said, they are also served all over Eastern Europe and I did have them in Russia, so that counts, right? They can be sweet or savory. I prefer the savory which are based on a mashed potato and cheese filling. I say based, because there are a lot of creative variations incluind fried onions, spinach, mushrooms, cabbage and more. These are usually served with a dollop of sour cream.

Jewish: Since there are a great many Jewish populations in the world, it is hard to limit kreplach to one country.  I most often had kreplech at a Ukranian diner in the lower east side of Manhattan. Kreplach are dumplings filled with meat and mashed potato and served in chicken soup. (another great Jewish tradition).

I look forward to traveling more and sampling a great many dumplings in other corners of the world! Any recommendations?

After getting my bearings in this small and lovely city I set out sample more of Vienna’s culinary delights. At the recommendation of an Austrian friend, I make my way to Cafe Central for breakfast. It’s an amazing space, grand in every way with amazingly high ceilings and gorgeous chandeliers  Opened in 1876, it has been a key meeting place for politicians and intellectuals throughout history including Leon Trotsky, Sigmund Freud, Adolf Hitler and Vladimir Lenin to name a few.

I pick a seat in the back so that I can take it all in and people watch. Everyone seems to be having the “Viennese breakfast” which is a soft boiled egg with 2 pieces of bread and coffee. I choose the same.  Vienna is famous for their coffee culture and so decide to try something called Kaffe Melange, which is coffee with a mixture of milk and cream.

I was thinking that Vienna would be culturally Western European, but I am realizing that it is a blend of Western and Eastern Europe. When discussing this, a friend tells me it is the “gateway to the Baltic.” I hear a lot of Russian being spoken on the streets in addition to German. As I do a bit of shopping, I observe a lot of Eastern European women coming out of Hermes and Louis Vuitton loaded down with bags. Whereas I am just excited to be able to buy my favourite Wolford stockings at a discount – another Austrian brand, famous for having what some consider to be the best stockings one can buy.

Shopping areas here are walking streets, closed to traffic and for some reason even mid-day on a weekday in snowy weather,  the shopping areas are full.

After securing my stockings and browsing in a few stores, I decide it’s time to seek out the Sacher Hotel’s and try the famous Sacher Torte whose origins date back to the 18th century. This on the list of ‘must visit’ foodie experiences in Vienna.

So I order a Sacher Torte and another Kaffe Melange and to be honest I am totally underwhelmed. While the chocolate icing and layer of jam is a wonderful combination of flavours, the cake underneath is quite dry. So I really don’t see what all the fuss is about. I have had more exciting desserts come out of my own kitchen and I don’t even really like to bake.

It gets dark very early here, starting around 3:30pm and being fully dark by around 4pm. This photo was taken about 3:45pm on the shopping pedestrian street by the Hotel Sacher.

And as the day comes to a close, I return back to the hotel. I am particularly excited about tonight because I am meeting some friends from Bangkok tonight who now live in Vienna. I actually thought they were in Munich…turns out they were, but through the miracle of Facebook, I come to realize they are now living in Vienna and we will meet. giving me the wonderful opportunity to catch up with old friends and see the city through a  ”local” perspective.

Read about more food and fun in Vienna later in the final installment, Vienna Part #3.

I usually don’t write about things I don’t feel confident to make an expert recommendation on. Thus, even though I travel extensively outside of Asia, I don’t feel qualified to make recommendations in London, Buenos Aires, Paris, etc…. But it occurred to me today as I was wandering the streets of Vienna, that’s not really what this blog was supposed to be about, is it? As my blog got more popular, I started to assume the posture of “expert.” But why I started the blog was to share all the finer things I stumbled upon when traveling and in life. And while now, here in Vienna, I cannot give you a local’s point-of-view on best of the best. But, I can share my experience. And this is what I will start doing when I travel. Enjoy my first photo diary

I arrived in Vienna in this week to full-on winter. I packed my long puffer coat and a cashmere hat and gloves in anticipation, being forewarned by some Austrian friends in Shanghai. (although I do also tend to check the weather myself!). Having sprained my ankle in London earlier in the week, I am trudging around in my bulky snow boots which thankfully I had packed and which make room for the swollen, wrapped ankle. I was a bit worried about exploring the city on it, but turns out the support of the boot plus the combination of arctic temperatures keeps the swelling down. I do, however, feel a bit schlumpy next to the well dressed Austrian women with their heeled boots, but c’est la vie (there must be some German version of that expression???).

As it turns out Vienna is one of the European cities least physically impacted in WWII, thus there are plenty of historic buildings and architecture to see. It is even a bit ‘too perfect’ in that it is a truly spotlessly clean city – I even saw a worker hurriedly sweeping the half dozen leaves off the sidewalk lest it be….gasp…..untidy! With all the characteristic grandeur and formality of a classic European city, it is still quite charming with horse and buggies roaming the city.

It is especially gorgeous in the evening at this time of year in December, when it is dressed  for Christmas. And if you didn’t already know, Vienna, or Wein as the locals call it, is the home of Swarovski. There seems to be one on every block, like Starbucks in New York City.

Having arrived mid-morning and checked into my hotel, the first item on the agenda was lunch. An Austrian co-worker recommended a “very traditional” Austrian restaurant (I didn’t come here to eat French or Italian!) and so I found my way to Plutzer Brau.

I ordered, what else, Weiner Schnitzel. What arrived what shocking – a piece of meat larger than my head. Holy weiner schnitzel!  And if that wasn’t enough, it was accompanied by french fries and a salad with (yes) more potatoes, cucumbers, lettuce and cabbage in a mouth-puckering vinegary sauce. I would like to say it was too much food for my delicate constitution, but I wolfed it down. (See the comparison below with my iPhone.)

People ask me, why Vienna? Well, I miss classical music and culture and arts. Vienna is famous for Mozart. And Sigmund Freud. I have  tickets to the opera to see La Boheme on Friday night at the most famous opera house in the world. (will report on that in a later diary).

I wander the streets of Vienna and see some signs that I find amusing…. Italian restaurant or shoe store? Shoe store…would be better if it were a shoe store that served pizza.

Do the people of Vienna have a sense of humour in spite of their stereotypical reputation for dour Germanic-ness? I see a sign for a wine association that is a play on the English word “wino”, if you pronounce it with the German pronunciation.

Word plays aside, THE thing to do is Vienna this time of year is visit the Christmas markets. I go after lunch and soon realize this is completely ill advised as the Christmas markets are primarily about food and drink. Food being…sausage, ham, meat of all sorts. Ohh, and cheese of course.

A typical Christmas market meat stall selling all things pork.

And the back of the above stall was also quite charming – “think pig!”

And pretzels, of course!

Drinks are winter warmers taking one of two forms – gluhwein or punsch. Gluhwein is German mulled red wine with spices, whereas punsch is an orangey flavoured tea drink enhanced with the addition of copious amounts of rum. The Austrians are kicking these drinks back like shots by the way. I sample and learn that I better go easy on this stuff lest I not find my way home!

And there is even Punsch for fundraising – served by the Lions club and the Kiwanis. I thought these were only American social clubs….in the Southern part of the US. Small world indeed.

My favourite market so far is the one below because they have lots of vintage, antique-y things. I use my hard-earned Chinese negotiating skills and end up with a pair of mother-of-pearl cuff links for half the marked price. I am tempted to buy my mother the  vintage handblown Christmas ornaments that remind me of the ornaments my Grandparents had on their Christmas tree, but I know from experience those are as sturdy as eggshells and will never survive the Vienna -> London -> Shanghai -> New York -> North Carolina journey.

At the same market it has started to snow, hard! And a young girl builds a snowman on the sled-shaped table. She unfortunately is camera-shy, but Mr. Snowman is not.

Somehow everything in Vienna is charming. Even the Starbucks is cuter here.

More to report in Part 2 on Vienna food and opera and such I am looking forward to Vienna cuisine in the form of pastries, coffee and tafelspitz!

Who knew there was such a plethora of organic farming in Shanghai?!?

Underneath the Hermes scarf and the Italian driving loafers, I must confess…I have an inner hippie. She lurks beneath the surface and pops out occasionally. I think it has something to do with growing up in the South and spending time on a family farm, living in the ultra-liberal town of Chapel Hill, North Carolina as well as attending a few Grateful Dead shows along the way (and yes, wearing tie dye at a few points). So my inner hippie was tickled when I found out about the burgeoning organic farming and CSA (Community Supported Agriculture) scene in Shanghai. What I had heard more about were the food scandals like melamine and milk and exploding watermelons, so the last thing I expected was the true passion and commitment of some Chinese farmers to raise organic, free range chickens and grow whole, completely natural foods…and in fact very close to the city center of Shanghai.

Knowing I am all about food and food related things, my friend Phyllis invited me to go with her to visit an organic farm just outside Shanghai. I was intrigued, for the reasons mentioned earlier, but also because I had sought this sort of thing out in Singapore when I lived there. You would think that CSA farms and home deliveries would be common in 1^st world countries – they are in the US and Europe. But in fact in Singapore, there were simply no viable options short of trekking up to Malaysia, and even there, options were scarce.

Off we went to Yi Mu Tian Farm, a Chinese owned and operated organic farm on Chongming Island about 1.5 hours outside of Shanghai city center. On Yi Mu Tian, they have everything from pumpkins, strawberries, tomatoes, chilis and herbs to organic chickens (only 180RMB / 2 Euro) and eggs. They grow everything in greenhouse style houses for 2 reasons. One it protects the crop during inclimate weather and two, it keeps the bugs out. The use no chemicals at all on the crops and in fact when they do spot some undesirable bugs and worms, they send the chickens in to eat them! In fact, this is why they got the chickens in the first place, but then they realized there was also a market for their free range chicken workers

As it should be Yi Mu Tian, along with all other organic farms, they only grow seasonally. So crops are not forced based on consumer demand for year round strawberries. Rather they grow them in the season where they will prosper and in fact taste the best. As we walked the farm I pulled a couple of strawberries off the vine and I can say with confidence, I have never tasted a more naturally sweet strawberry in my life. Not the bloated yet perfect supermarket strawberry, but a small morsel of goodness. I can imagine eating a bowl for dessert and completely sating my sweet tooth.

And it turns out there was an option to have lunch at the farm where a vegetarian lunch of all their current products in season would be presented. Everything was fresh from the field and you could see it in the vibrant color of the veggies as well as taste it. Have you ever had the experience where seafood is so fresh, you feel like you can taste the sea? Well imagine that experience translated to vegetables. The cherry tomatoes were so good, I was popping them in my mouth like potato chips. Seriously.

I started to wonder…were there more places like this in Shanghai. And I found out there are several, all doing home delivery. So you can order produce (and chicken in some cases) and have it delivered to your door the same day it was picked! As I thought about the sad little packages at my local supermarket of vaguely wilted produce imported from Australia and New Zealand, I vowed to change my shopping habits.

So I have been experimenting with various CSA home delivery providers in Shanghai. Some places are more convenient than others, where you can pick the date and time of delivery, others less so. But all have been quite impressive in terms of the quality of the foods.

• Yu Mu Tian –  as mentioned above, has a wide variety of produce, eggs, chicken and herbs and delivers once a week. The biggest issue for me at the moment is that the website is currently in Chinese (they are adding English), so it’s hard for me to order online.
• Shanghai Organic  – has a very user friendly website in English and Chinese, and offers over 120 different kinds of produce and organic rices. They deliver Mon – Sun, which creates a lot of flexibility.
• Tony’s Farm – this is probably the biggest organic farm in Shanghai and is operated more like a traditional CSA in the sense that you get a “mystery box” every week of what is available and fresh that week. I know a lot of home cooks who love this because it forces them to be creative. For me, I travel a lot and an often dining out so committing to the minimum 3kg of veg a week is a bit daunting. The website also has recipes which can help you with those unusual veggies that you might not quite know how to handle.
• Fields – this isn’t a farm, but an online organic grocery store.  It has pretty much everything you would expect from produce and grains, to fruits and herbs, to personal care products and bakery goods. But what really got me was the variety and quality of the organic meats and seafood. Real bacon, tiger prawns and thick US / Aussie style steaks in particular  got my attention.

And this is just in Shanghai.   As it turns out, this is part of an overall sustainability / green movement in China. Unlike other countries in the world where green awareness was driven by the government, in China it started with a generation. The 25 – 34 year-old generation that grew up with an open China and a great deal of exposure to the outside world, living in a richer, more globally-integrated China. They tend to be more outwardly motivated, preferring foreign brands and often seeking to emulate American or European models of lifestyle and success vs. the older generations. And in doing so have brought environmental concerns into the conversation in China.

Who knew in Shanghai I would find such a plethora of organic options?  There is something special about seeing where your food is grown. And I don’t know about you, but I prefer to eat a ripe, juicy tomato fresh from the field vs. a perfectly red grocery store specimen with no flavor.

Just another reason to be inspired by China.

A guide to one of the most relaxing and chill islands in Thailand

If you are looking for an island in Thailand where you can enjoy some of the best of the Thai beach scene, here’s why Koh Lanta should be on the short list. Lesser known than its other neighbors on the Andaman Sea like Koh Phi Phi or Krabi, Koh Lanta is at once two places – a quiet place where you can completely chill out AND a quirky, cool place to party and hang out.

I happened to go over Christmas – a time when Thailand is crawling with tourists and generally overbooked. But somehow Koh Lanta, while mostly full, still managed to keep its laid back, friendly, come-one-come-all vibe. The temperature is almost always a near perfect 28-30 C degrees, the sand is fine and white, the beaches are broad, long and perfect for long walks, the open-air bars are welcoming with no shortage of ice cold Singha beer and the sunsets are those that will strike jealousy among your friends when viewing your holiday photos.

Here are a few of my favourite places in Koh Lanta. I have no doubt you will love them and discover favourites of your own. 

Where to Sleep – recommended hotels:
There are several options when visiting Koh Lanta. My favourite area to stay is Kantiang Bay.

• An option that represents good value is Baan Lanta – this simple Thai style hotel, enjoys many return guests given its attractive prices and its location near the main beach in Kantiang Bay.
• I particularly like Eyes Lanta and its Thai-style villas spread over a rocky hill. Each one is a unique style with jungle views and beach views available. The staff is also super friendly and helpful.
• On a different part of the island (not Kantiang Bay), you can enjoy the graciousness of Thai 5-star luxury at Pimalai – the perfect choice for a getaway to remember. For those seeking a luxe option, this is it.

Where to Eat – my fave spots for a meal:
If you stay in Kantiang Bay, here are a few great places to try.

• Drunken Sailors – you can have breakfast lunch and dinner at this Thai restaurant…I know, I did! For breakfast I would recommend the Pan Fry Skillet with scrambled eggs fried chicken and bacon, or the Sunrise Sandwich with ham, egg and cheese on English muffin. For lunch or dinner, try the Seafood Glass Noodle Salad, Pad See Ew and the Burgers with Crinkle Cut Fries. And don’t miss the highly addictive shakes… the Funky Sailor (strawberry, orange banana) and the Choco Banana Frappe (which tastes like a Wendy’s Frostie with banana). The place is comfy and cozy, enhanced by the presence of 4-5 resident cats that will chill by your feet or in your lap if you like.
• Marine Park View Resort – this resort features a tiered restaurant built into the hillside over Kantiang Bay, where you can have Thai and Western favourites and over the years has proven to be consistent and reliable.
• Top View – While I prefer to eat at Drunken Sailors, here I enjoy the spring rolls, shrimp tempura and stir fried cashews nuts with a beer. Given its place on top of a large hill, thus the name, it’s a destination for sunset watching over pre-dinner drinks and snacks.
• Ba Kantiang restaurant – enjoy fantastic Thai food in a tin shack with chickens running about and karaoke performances…you cannot make this stuff up. The thing to eat here is the pork (even the locals come for it), despite the obvious presence of fresh chicken

While you are in Koh Lanta, it is worth a trip to…

• Fresh Restaurant – at Lanta Old Town in an old teak house. It’s the best in the area. Try the steamed fish with chili and lime.
• Red Snapper http://www.redsnapper-lanta.com – on another part of the island (Phra Ae) is this wonderful hideaway where a Dutch couple serves Tapas.

Where to Drink – enjoy a Singha beer or three:
Try these for a beer or a beachy cocktail.

• Why Not? – a festive bar on the beach of Kantiang Bay with live music and fire twirlers every night.
• Aqua Bar – a beachside shack cum bar that’s part of the Baan Lanta resort. It doesn’t get more chill than this.
• Shroom Bar – this (in)famous bar on Kantiang Bay is perched on the top of a hill overlooking the bay. Many agree it’s the top bar in the area.
• Eyes Lanta Poolside – for something a bit more civilized, go to the Eyes Lanta resort’s poolside area and have a sundowner over sunset in one of the cozy-chic cabanas.

What to Do – from scuba to shopping:
Fun things to do because you cannot lie on the beach every day, ot at least I can’t.

• Scubafish – these guys helped me complete my open water PADI certification and I can safely say I never met a nicer bunch of dive instructors. They know all the great dive sites in the area – in fact, we saw the elusive manta ray on one dive. They also arrange snorkeling.
• Lanta Old Town – sometimes there is a night market for shopping and eating and such. But the best time to go to Lanta Old Town is the Laanta Laanta Festival. It’s the first 2 weeks of March, it is a weeklong festival with shopping, live music, dancing, cultural exhibits, and more.
• Rent a Motorbike – for 300THB a day, feel the wind in your hair while exploring the island’s nooks and crannies.
• Get a Massage – at your hotel for 500THB or off-site for less at 300THB. A Thai beach holiday wouldn’t be complete without a few massages.

Sitting in cool and drizzly Shanghai and remembering all my favourite Koh Lanta places makes me want to make a run for the border! But I know it won’t be too long before I head back to one of my favourite chill-out spots in Thailand.

For more information, I can recommend Kantiang Bay http://www.kantiang-bay.com – it’s a super helpful resource discovering more of Koh Lanta.

I was visiting an old friend of mine in Prague, Jason. Jason and his partner have been living in Prague now for 7 years and are clearly authorities on this charming and picturesque European city. Not only was I excited to visit Jason (we hadn’t seen each other in 10 years!), but also to have a chance to see the city from a more local point of view. And Jason has discerning taste and an uncompromising demand for both quality and frivolity – so I knew he would point me in the right direction for all manner of rich Prague experiences. In fact Jason is a blogger too, his blog is all about shopping. As you can imagine my tour of Prague was at the expert level – we make sure to cover some of the must do touristy places, but also managed to have some more local experiences while I got reacquainted with my old friend.

First things first, Prague is an amazing walking city. Pack your comfy shoes because if you are the sort of person that likes to explore a city on foot, there is no better place than Prague. The city is small-ish and manageable – you can easily walk from end to end in the course of a day. In fact we set out with Jason’s super cute dog, Louis, and spent the day trolling around. It turns out Prague is one of the most dog friendly cities I have ever been to. Everywhere we went they put out a doggie bowl of water for Louis (named after Louis Vuitton

You’ll want to take one of the charming trolleys for the fun of it, but it’s not totally necessary unless you are in a hurry. Oh and as the streets are cobblestones, ladies should avoid wearing anything with a heel as you will either spend the day wrenching your heel out from between stones or walking on your tiptoes to prevent it from getting stuck in the first place. In fact I had stupidly (in an effort to reduce my luggage and in a late night packing extravaganza) mistakenly shipped all my shoes from Paris back to Singapore. After about 20 minutes of walking around in my Sergio Rossi kitten heels, I hightailed it to a sporting goods store and bought a pair of Converse. So take a lesson from me and don’t forget your flat and comfy walking shoes.

Jason took us around and we explored quite a lot of places. These were the highlights and what I would recommend for a 3 day itinerary in Prague.

Sightseeing
Well there is no point in my covering the usual suspects of museums and classic sights that other guide books do. Yes you must see the Prague Castle, visit the Astronomical Clock in Old Town, tour the Museum of Communism, walk the Charles Bridge, visit the Jewish Quarter, etc. Have a look at your Frommer’s or Lonely Planet for these essentials.

Mucha Museum
However one tiny, but outstanding museum you might miss if you are not on the lookout for it is the Mucha Museum. Alphonse Mucha was an Art Nouveau painter and decorative artist. You may know him for his work on the Coca Cola ads in the early 1900’s or is Sarah Bernhardt pieces. This small gem of a museum takes you through his life and work – you can easily finish your visit within 1 hour. And by the way it also has a super cool gift shop with lots of tempting buys. I ended up leaving with a poster for Paul (who has an old graphic arts fetish) and some playing cards.

The Estates Theater
Jason made sure to point out this gem. So if you have time, attend the opera at The Estates Theatre. I myself am not a huge opera aficionado, but it will be something quite transformative to see it in such a historic venue. Opened in 1783, this is where Mozart frequently conducted his operas and in fact where Don Giovanni was premiered.

Kampa Island / Kampa Park Restaurant
Finally, if you time your walk of the Charles Bridge properly, you can walk over to Kampas Island at the end of the day. Explore the island a bit and then walk over to the Kampa Park restaurant just by the Charles Bridge where you can sit by the river and watch the boats go by as you enjoy a glass of wine and a have an appetizer or two (they are known for their fresh, high quality seafood) while the sun is setting.

Eating & Drinking
Well for starters, don’t miss Kampa Park, above. But beyond that, there are a variety of cool places to visit if you are a visitor to Prague. The list below is more about outstanding views or traditional Czech experiences versus the most exclusive restaurants in town. Although Kampa Park certainly fits in the top dining venues in town. So stay for dinner after your sunset cocktails if you are looking for a special occasion meal.

And if you are over by the Prague Castle, check out Cowboys rooftop bar and grill. It’s an excellent spot to have a drink and the burgers are quite good. Jason was telling us he brings all his guests to Cowboys because the view from the bar is simply outstanding – and it was!

Gut let’s get down to business…. in the Czech Republic, you simply must drink beer. The Czechs have a long history with beer. Starting with Budvar, the original Budweiser beer. This beer dates back to 1785, well before the launch of Anheuser Busch’s American version of Budweiser which launched in 1876. To be clear, Budvar has very little in common with the American version and is an amazing high quality Czech Pilsner. And the Czech Republic is also the home of Pilsner Urquell, the world famous pilsner of choice produced since 1842.

So you can stop in at any café in the middle of the day and enjoy a cold beer and some Czech sausages. In fact, not only can you, you should! There’s no better way to break up all the walking than with a frosty cold one. While you can do this anywhere, I will say there are 2 places that merit a special visit for drinking and eating. Once Jason knew I was interested in the Czech beer scene he made a point to take me to 2 very special places.

Riegrovy Sady
This is a park slightly outside of the center of town in the Vinohrady area. Located on a hill you can see the Prague Castle from its vantage point. Also, most notably the park houses ones of the largest and most popular beer gardens in Prague. Open from April to October, this beer garden is the place to come to watch football and other sports events on the big screen TVs. We watched the World Cup there and the crowd was rowdy but contained. Between the international crowd, the abundance of pilsner and a heated World Cup match, I was torn between people watching and keeping my eye on the game. Even Louis seemed to enjoy it with some well timed barks during excited parts of the match.

Kolkovna Group Restaurant
This restaurant is owned by the folks from Pilsner Urquell and as you may have guessed serves Pilsner Urquell and other local beers. Also it’s a really reliable place for good quality Czech food. We sat at a café table on the street and indulged in sausages, traditional Czech bread dumplings (“knedliky”) and goulash. Between a perfect summer weather, a full tummy, catching up with friends and drinking some amazing beer, it was an amazing afternoon. I would highly recommend it.

Shopping
Ok, so now here is where things get interesting. Jason always was and still is an expert shopper. So I was excited to hit the pavement and do some hard core retail exploration.

Flea Markets
We had a couple of requests for Jason…first and foremost we wanted to check out a flea market. We had heard tale of cool flea market scenes in Eastern Europe and beyond that were kind of jones-ing for antiquey, cool, old things as the flea market scene doesn’t exist in Asia (rarely are old / used things valued here). We hit the jackpot with Jason! He told us to an old school flea market, celled Kolbenova, outside of town where we found all manner of cool, idiosyncratic and just plain odd items. I was in heaven. I was tempted by all the old glass Christmas ornaments (but had to resign myself to the fact that these would not travel well) and the vintage jewelry. I ended up with a coin necklace and Jason emerged with mounted deer antlers (which look super cool in his guest bedroom) and a cool leather medicine ball.

Czech Crystal
Well if you know anything about the Czech republic, no doubt you will be familiar with Czech crystal. It can go from ornate to modern and I think my favourite examples were to be had in a store Jason took us to called Artel. Artel glass is world renowned as some of the highest quality Czech glass and has in fact received several design awards for its works. They had the coolest array of glass items from seriously chic highball glasses to bowls that would pass for works of art. This is a must if you are looking for glass or gifts to bring home.

Celetná 29 (entrance on Rybná)
Prague 1, Staré Mesto
Tel.: +420 224 815 085
Open daily: 10:00 – 20:00

Gifts, Objects d’Art & Cool Things
Lots and lots of stores…but a few of my favourites are…

Material
Lots of wonderful crystal, chandeliers, jewelry and homewares – not the ordinary assortment, but really cool, design-y type items with a chic and elegant flair.
Ungelt, Tyn 1, Stare Mesto
Telephone: + 42 775 568 667
Open daily: 10:30 – 20:00

Kubista
Kubista is part gallery / part shop and focuses on items inspired by the cubism design movement. Expect lots of modern yet retro looking items – everything from candleticks and lamps to dishes to jewelry to glassware to postcards and scarves.

Clothing & Shoes
When in Europe I always shop for clothing since it is hard to find my size in Asia. Definitely you should hit Parizska Street – it is the 5th Avenue of Prague with Prada, Louis Vuitton, Hermes, Dior, Gucci, Ferragamo and Hugo Boss mixed in with cool little, local boutiques.

Also, a few gems that Jason showed me were also quite impressive. For example a store simply called Outlet – here they had all manner of designer goods deeply discounted. From D&G to Versace to Prada to Tod’s to Armani to Etro to Ferragamo and more…,many items were up to 70% off. They have shoes (but not much past size 37), bags, clothes and accessories.
Masna 703/7, 110 00 Praha 1
Telephone: +42 222 314 827

And then there was Kali, another stand out store. Kali is a well edited boutique with both femme and glamorous garb from drapey tee’s to sequined party dressed (and lots of Diane Von Furstenberg).
Stupartska 9, Prague 1, 110 00
Telephone: +42 222 312 670

Skin Care, Organic Soaps and Wonderful Vinegars & Spices

Another must do (seriously you must go) is Dr Stuart Botanicus. This store has found millions of uses for plant essences and extracts. From face care and body wash and lovely soaps to infused oils and vinegars and seasoned salts to natural beeswax candles. Let’s just say I left with a large bag of Christmas presents.
Tyn 1, Praha 1
Telephone: +42 234-767-446

All in all Jason definitely showed us the best of Prague. And not only was it cool to visit a city I had never been to, but it was even better to reconnect with an old friend. Turns out Jason hadn’t changed one bit and we found ourselves laughing at the same old things and learning about each other’s new lives. I feel in love with the charming doggie Louis, offering to be his godmother should anything happen. And in general I fell in love with the city. Prague was a truly gorgeous city oozing with European character and elegance. And every experience from sitting on the river banks having a sundowner to learning about Czech glass was rich and satisfying, and will remain in my memory for a long while to come.

Hong Kong is my favourite city for boutique fashion shopping in Asia

Shopping in Asia is legendary and nowhere more so than in Hong Kong, where Asians and expats alike make pilgrimages to the wonderous twice annual sale periods to stock up on designer fashion. Hong Kong is packed to the gills with epic shopping malls like IFC, Pacific Place, The Landmark and more… But what I enjoy most, and also what is hardest to find in other Asian cities, is the fashion boutiques in the areas of Soho and Central, Hong Kong. While a department store presents known brands in expected array of colours and sizes, boutique shopping is a bit more adventurous and idiosyncratic. This is because you have the owner’s perspective on what is cool and interesting to him / her and this could easily be a mix of known designer brands as well as quirky new local and foreign designers with fresh points of view. Coming from New York where boutique shopping in places like Intermix and Scoop is the norm, I have adjusted to the idea that in Asia, the shopping mall is ubiquitous and therefore king. But for me boutique shopping, especially when in Hong Kong, is always soooo much more interesting.

The Soho and Central areas of Hong Kong are known for their shopping, wine bars and art galleries. This is truly a walking city (wear flats though, it’s as hilly as San Francisco) in that you can spend a day meandering about and wandering in and out of coffee shops and stores. I thought I would share with you a few of my favourites where I tend to have a great deal of success with both Western friendly sizes as well as an excellent selection of cool international and up and coming brands.

Ocho
The lovely Chilean owner Mariela is super attentive and honest about what looks great and what doesn’t. Ocho carries sizes 4 – 12 US and has a well edited mix of American brands and other international brands. I scored a Valentino blazer, some Rock & Republic jeans, a sequined tank top and some really cool and classic cubic zirconia hoop earrings.

51 Staunton Street
Phone: +852 2801 5988

Ozzie Cozzie Co
An Aussie swimwear shop with suits for Women (sizes 8 – 18 AUS), Men and Kids. They carry well known Aussie brands like Seafolly, Miraclesuit, Baku, Chillies, Moontide, Sunseeker and more.

17-19 D’Aguilar Street
Phone: +852 2810 1356

One Design
This is the place to come for custom made cheongsam dresses and tops. My friend Anne had one made for S$350…not cheap, but a good value for a custom made dress in Chinese silk and lace. They have all manner of Chinese silks and handmade laces and the dresses are made with an exquisite level of detail using these fine materials.

g/f 15 Old Bailey Street
Phone: +852 3622 3222

Mint & Lemongrass
Another favourite boutique with a combination of edgy & feminine styles. There are lots of international brands not otherwise found in Hong Kong. They have a great collection of flirty dresses and quirky accessories.

32 Staunton Street
Phone: +852 2868 2380

Love It!
The Aussie owner Catherine typically takes “appointments-only” to visit her boutique tucked away in an unobtrusive apartment building. Sip champagne as Catherine helps understand your needs and style your outfits if you so desire. Western friendly, offering sizes from 2-16 US, you can also throw fashion parties here for your girlfriends. I have a pair of pants I practically live in that I bought on my last trip to Love It!… Catherine had advised me to go one size down because they stretch and you know what? She was right. They would not be my current favourite trousers without her expert counsel. I also emerged with a sequined top and a sexy day-to-evening dress.

3/f 10 Gage Street
Phone: +852 2545 2162

MTC – Miss T. Company
One of those places that is hit or miss, but in a good way, thanks to designer factory seconds. You never know what or what size you will find. I emerged with a cool Marc Jacobs dress

25 Staunton Street
Phone: +852 2525 2060

Indigo
Nothing but denim (all brands…shorts, shirts, skirts, and jeans) in lengths up to 34 inches. Need I say more?

32A Staunton Street
Phone: +852 2147 3000

Message
Loads of feminine and flirty skirts, dresses and tops. My friend Mariona bought the cutest pink tweed skirt and I got what is now a “go to” necklace for me, a chain with gold and silver discs that seems to make every outfit look better.

34B Staunton Street
Phone: not available

And when all is said and done, don’t forget to celebrate your shopping success with a glass of bubbly and some snacks. Surely, you must be exhausted.

Bacar
Bacar has a wonderful location by the escalator in Soho (right across from True Fitness), so it is as fantastic for people watching as it is for its tasty tapas and Prosecco. Sit and have a glass or two of bubbly, try the zucchini and halloumi fritters and Moroccan spiced tuna skeweres, and rest your tired feet while planning your evening out.

g/f 2 Shelley Street
Phone: +852 2521 8322

Hong Kong is an amazing city for many things and its place on my cities-I-would-like-to-live list moves up with every visit, certainly aided by the dynamic boutique, gallery, and such shopping scene. So next time you are in Hong Kong, consider skipping the typical mall circuit and explore Soho and Central shopping.

I travel a lot and I am tempted by so many stunning Asian goods and textiles. When in a country which has a famous good, e.g. Sri Lanka’s Ceylon Tea, Chinese Silks, Thai teak, etc. it is a wonderful reminder of the trip to bring something home. However, having been in Asia for a while now I believe something must be very special in order to add kilos to my luggage and make it home into my personal collection. With that said I think there are some special shops and items in Hanoi worth checking out.

No doubt you will find the usual collection of Asian silks, fans, statues, fake designer goods, etc. I don’t need to tell you where to find these, vendors for these items are abundantly littered throughout Hanoi.

But what Hanoi uniquely offers, in my opinion, are some items that are hard to find elsewhere and still represent really good value. And a particularly good area to shop for all of these is the Nha Tho area or the Church area in the Hoan Kiem (Lake) District. Here are a few of our favorite things:

Lacquerware
This high gloss style of tableware is synonymous with Vietnam. It was introduced to the world in Paris in the 1930’s by a Vietnamese artist visiting an international trade fair. Since then, the world has fallen in love with the elegance and style of lacquerware. You can certainly find this in China and Thailand, but not with the same level of quality of variety. And personally, I think there is nothing more chic to serve champagne or tapas on that a glossy black and Chinese red lacquerware tray.

To be fair there are many stores for lacquerware in Hanoi. I tend to prefer the simple, traditional styles without a lot of flourish. No painted butterflies or infinity symbols for me….I prefer a wide of expanse of uninterrupted glossy color. And while there are several stores in the Hoan Kiem District, I like MARENA Hanoi, The Art of Lacquerware and Ceramic, located at 28 Nha Chung Street, +84 (0) 4 38285542. The selection there is well edited and impressive.

Propaganda Posters
There are so many pieces of art, culture and communication left over from the war.  And unlike many other countries who might jettison these materials with a blind future focus, Vietnam has held onto and reproduced many of the stunning examples of art and culture from this period. One of my personal favourite genres is the genre of graphic propaganda posters. These posters were a form of graphic art used to educate and inspire citizen action to align with the political and cultural agenda of the time. They were effective “weapons” to raise morale, change behaviour and direct the efforts of the citizens during the war. Most of the themes during the war center around the people’s battle and production activities.

I have always loved rifling through the posters and reading the sometimes concrete and sometimes abstract slogans such as “Save the country – save the youth” or “Breed more pigs for a Vietnam with full stomachs.” Inspired by some of the more agricultural ones, we bought a series of food posters with a view to hang them in the kitchen – one about pigs, another about vegetable farming and another about coffee production. Again like with the lacquerware there are many stores in Hanoi, but we like The Hanoi Gallery, they have several locations, and we prefer the 17 Nha Chung location, +84 (0) 4 37711956.

Cotton and Linen Hand-embroidery
Sure Vietnam is famous for its silks, but did you know they also have wonderful hand embroidered cotton and linen? Since the start of the 20^th century, embroidery has been passed on from generation to generation. In Vietnam this exquisite art of supremely detailed hand embroidery is top quality and surprisingly affordable. From elaborately detailed and baroque designs to simple, modern tone-on-tone linens, you can find it all here. And this work is applied on all manner of linen items from lingerie travel bags to duvet covers to dining room place-mats and napkins to pillow cases to shirts.

One of my favorite stores for this is May at 7 Nha Tho Street, +84 (0)4 38289650. I love the assortment of items…all of the best quality…and all beautifully displayed. I struggled to choose between linen napkins and must have pored over the pile for 30 minutes – they were all so beautiful. I was tempted by the duvet covers but Paul thought it would be impractical with our naughty cat who might view it as a new and attractive item to scratch. But I did also walk away with lots of lovely shoe and lingerie bags for travel that I have been giving as (much adored) presents back in Singapore.

While certainly not a complete list, this should get you started on what is special to buy and where to buy it when in Hanoi. Be sure to finish off your day with a walk around Hoan Kiem Lake and drink a Bia Hoi and you have just had a lovely day in Hanoi

J

I miss antique markets and flea markets. I suppose it is mostly a Western thing – you see them in Paris, London, New York, Los Angeles. My personal favourite being a NYer was the Chelsea Weekend Flea Market. These are the kind of places where you can find old kitschy items, vintage jewellery and clothing, mismatched china and objets d’art at bargain basement prices. Some of it is crap and some of it is cool, and that’s the fun…hunting through the crap to find that the precious needle in a haystack. These don’t really exist in Asia – except in China. Why is that? Well the market concept is alive and healthy as evidenced by the famous Chatuchak Bangkok market and others. But I have observed that most cultures in Asia simply aren’t interested in old things. In developing countries in Asia it seems they put more emphasis on the new than the old. I suppose it makes sense, but it is also a little sad. Most of the Asian art and antique dealers dealers are…gasp….Western. I went to a so called “flea market in Singapore” and it was a whole bunch of people selling new, locally designed clothing. Want to give your old clothing away to a vintage store in Thailand or Singapore? Well, you cannot because they aren’t any. But in China there is still a modicum of respect for the old and certainly an appetite for the new, and this is reflected in the vibrant market scene that abounds in Shanghai.

We started out on a brisk weekend winter morning and with a view to spend the day covering the Shanghai antique market scene. It’s completely walkable, approx 2 – 2.5km, and frankly there’s sometimes no better way to explore a city than on foot.

YuYuan Bazaar & Jiu Jiao Chang  & Fangbang Road
Only a few minutes walk from the Bund (We usually stay at the Westin Bund Center Shanghai) lies theYu Yuan Gardens and Bazaar and Jin Jiao Road area. This area called Old Town is one of the few remaining traditional old areas in Shanghai, full of dark alleys and mysterious alcoves, bustling street life and crowded lanes. Stroll down Jiu Jiao Chang Road and take it all in.

What you will find: A mix of old, new and reproductions. Curio stores. Tea shops. Tourist / souvenir shops. Be careful because some reproductions are sold as “antiques.” I bought a lovely set of reproduction calligraphy brushes and a stand at Da Zhong handicraft.

Tips:  Check out the YuYuan gardens, dating from 1577. Stop in for tea at the kitschy, cozy Shanghai Tea House. Avoid weekends if possible, otherwise be prepared for crowds.

Flower, Bird, Fish & Insect Market
Follow W Fangbang Road through a local neighbourhood – it will twist and turn, but as long as you are on W Fangbang road you are in the right direction. You well see lots of local produce stores and butchers, people doing laundry on the street and other various signs of everyday life. Once you hit S Xizang Road, turn right and the Flower, Bird, Fish and Insect Market is on your right.

What you will find: An unbelievable array of crickets and other creepy crawly things. Loads of birds of all sorts and all manner of birdcages, including the really big Victorian-style floor stand ones. A few kittens and puppies. Fish and aquarium supplies.

Tips:  Come with a camera, you likely have never (or will never) see anything like this.

Dongtai Road Antiques Market
Follow W Fangbang Road through a local neighborhood – it will twist and turn, but as long as you are on W Fangbang road you are in the right direction. You well see lots of local produce stores and butchers, people doing laundry on the street and other various signs of everyday life. On the border of Old Town and the French Concession, you will hit S Xizang Road, turn right and the Flower, Bird, Fish and Insect Market is on your right.

What you will find: It’s a bit like a flea market in the American sense…lots of junk with a few needles in a haystack to be found. But even the junk is quirky and interesting. Paul toyed with the idea of buying a ceramic pig in a tuxedo (he didn’t) and we had a good laugh at some of the silly sayings on old biscuit tins. It’s really a mixture of curios, china, teapots, signs, typewriters, old radios, vintage jewellery and endlessly more.

Tips:  Bargain hard. Sometimes it can be hard to tell what is a real antique versus what is a reproduction…if they are willing to come down on the significantly price then you can better gauge if what you are getting is really worth the money.

And when you are done you will find yourself on the edge of the French Concession. If you walk just another 7-10 minutes more to Xintiandi, you can enjoy lunch or dinner or maybe just a cocktail at one of our favourite Shanghai restaurants, T8.

Hope you have a perfect Shanghai afternoon like we did